Greece’s wine story is ancient, its golden age between 500–300 BCE saw Hellenic culture and viticulture spread across the Mediterranean. Wines were often infused with pine resin, herbs or honey, more for preservation than flavour. But centuries of upheaval, from Roman rule to civil wars, meant Greek wine lost ground. Until fairly recently, it was largely defined by Retsina. However, since the 1980s, quality-driven estate bottlings have steadily redefined the landscape. Today, with rising exports and a growing reputation, Greece is quietly producing some seriously characterful and delicious wines.

The country’s geography plays a vital role. A warm Mediterranean climate dominates, though elevation and coastal influences bring vital moderation. Summers can be punishingly hot; Santorini, for example, sees as little as 200mm of annual rainfall. Inland regions swing to harsh winters, while strong island winds can challenge growers.

Greece’s mountainous terrain and low-fertility soils yield naturally limited, quality-focused harvests. Many international varieties are also grown which are still favoured by the domestic market. But around 90% of vineyards are planted with indigenous varieties, some 300 in total, many with real identity and resilience.

Assyrtiko, originally from Santorini, is a flagship white, prized for its tension between ripe fruit and taut acidity. Savatiano and Roditis are widely planted; when grown with care, they offer surprisingly refined expressions. Moschofilero and Malagousia add aromatic flair and freshness.

Among reds, Agiorgitiko is versatile and plush-fruited, while Xinomavro, from Macedonia’s Naoussa PDO, is more structured, with a profile not unlike Barolo.

Increasingly mainstream, Greece is now firmly on the map for thoughtful drinkers seeking something distinct, grounded in tradition, yet confidently modern.

I was delighted to find an old favourite the Argyros Estate Assyrtiko 2020

Made from a blend of vineyards with 100 year old vines, the wine spends 3-4 months on lees. On the nose, stone fruit, sea air and an undertone of herb; tarragon or cut grass. The fruit is ripe, there is cooked lemon with a salty tingling long finish in the mouth. The body is full and acidity bracing. This wine is made for food especially Greek dips, fetta and grilled fish. Delicious.

For my full tasting notes of the Argyros range see Adam’s article on the winery.