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South Africa: Reyneke Wines, Stellenbosch.

Johan Reyneke

Mostly when I ask winemakers about what they are doing to be more sustainable and to reduce their environmental impact the answer is all about stewardship of the land; vineyard practice, avoidance of pesticides, and perhaps a bit of onsite recycling. All good stuff, but as the drive towards Net Zero Carbon builds obviously the wine industry also needs to step up and make a start down this road.

Challenging though it may be, without plotting a route and taking the first step, the target will never be reached.  Equally we consumers need vote with our wallets and make it clear we care, not just about how tasty the wine in our glass is, but also about the journey has taken to get there.

Happily, there are some great wineries out there, leading the way on sustainability and one of them is Reyneke Wines in Stellenbosch.

Since the early noughties Johan Reneke has been working towards achieving the three pillars of sustainability: environmental, social and economic.  As he eloquently argues, how can a wine be beautiful if there is ugliness, in the form of glaring social inequity, involved in its making? He also makes the point that only a financially healthy business is going to be able to achieve any sort of environmental and social goals.

Johan sees Biodynamic farming as part of a larger picture of regenerative farming. Agriculture is one of top five contributors to climate change but regenerative agriculture actually provides the opportunity to turn this around. It can actually sequester carbon back into the earth by improving soil health and increasing humus content. Another win is by moving away from monoculture biodiversity can also be improved.

Reyneke works with nature to maintain vine health without recourse to chemical pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers. This ‘land caring’ element of the approach uses for example dandelions and other cover crops to provide a preferential home for pests. It also involves ducks trotting around the vineyards hoovering up snails.

Land within the farm is also ‘spared’ so that there are pockets of wilderness left between the vineyards which are rich in flora and fauna.  The farm’s herd of cattle currently roaming in pasture below the winery, are let into the dormant vineyards over winter to fertilize them. In a lovely example of the vineyard’s circular like economy the winery produces feed for the cows in the form of the grape pressings which according to Yohan they love!

Looking back towards False Bay with the farm herd of cattle in the foreground.

Improved soil health and biodynamic farming has made the vines more resilient to pest, fungus and drought and so by extension perhaps some of the other effects of climate change?

As we visit the Reyneke wine farm is currently being extended into a neighbouring farm recently acquired.  Some of the vineyards are being kept and some replanted. One can see where strips running along the contours of the hillside are being set side for biodiversity corridors between the vines.  Old vines are piled up and will be turned into bio-charcoal that will be mixed in with the soil, locking in the carbon long term.

New vineyards in preparation. A pocket of Fynbos top left, horozontal lines on the hill side mark out future biodiversity corridors

When looking at the road to net zero carbon any organisation needs to look at its Scope 1, 2 and 3 emissions.  Scope 1 emissions are C02 emissions arising from operations directly controlled by the organisation. Scope 2 are emissions up stream caused indirectly by the organisation when it buys in goods and services from elsewhere, for instance electricity or bottles. Finally scope 3 emissions are those downstream arising from the activities of distributors and consumers transporting, consuming and disposing of goods.

At Reyneke the farm is now carbon negative but Johan continues to look at the winery operations. He is investigating renewable energy in the form of photo voltaic (PV) panels, possibly in combination with electric tractors which could double up by providing some energy storage too.  The Cape is lovely and sunny but electricity is currently rationed in ‘load shedding’ which adds another reason for moving off grid.

Reyneke is also trailing the use of Tetra Pak type packaging as an option, starting with their entry level organic wines in Scandinavian countries who seem more open to the idea.  Clearly there is a challenge here in shifting negative consumer perceptions of ‘bag in a box’ type wine.  Moving away from bottles would deliver valuable reductions in carbon footprint in terms of packaging and transport.

A non-interventionist approach follows through into the wine making. Instead of temperature controlled stainless steel and yeast inoculation at Reyneke wild fermentation in oak barrels is the order of the day. The wooden containers and smaller volumes successfully manages the temperature during fermentation in a passive way. The wild yeast and breathability of the oak also give a different character to the wines in particular the Sauvignon Blancs.

Johan’s story is so fascinating, and the challenges he and his team have taken on are so inspiring that this intro’ section could easily run on and on so let’s get to the wines, which do not disappoint!

Reyneke Sauvignon Blanc 2021

On the nose, hay, a touch of gooseberry, a whiff of custard. Good body with lovely balance and freshness. A nice supple mouth feel, white peach, exotic fruit pineapple, creamy gooseberry fool. Complex with good length a wine that evolves. Excellent. (Tasted at the farm and again back in London with consistent results)

Reyneke Reserve White 2020.

This is also 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The reserve is made from selected pockets of grapes within the vineyard which have their own character. It gets 24 hours on the skins and the new oak barriques.

More stone fruit on the nose also a bit of hay and a subtle touch of vanilla. Lovely textured mouth feel, more peach and bit of toast, rich but balanced, great length. Neither of these wines are your identikit new world SBs, much more interesting and complex.

Reyneke Chenin Blanc 2021

The vineyards here are part of the South African old vine project so more than 35 years old.

The nose is floral and nutty. In the mouth apricot, honey and a slightly salty finish. Vibrant.

Reyneke Syrah 2019

On the nose, sweet blackberry, dried herbs and crushed pepper. In the mouth dried black fruits, iodine, ripe tannins, full bodied but fresh.  Long. (Tasted at the farm and again back in London where the wine benefited with time in the glass.)

Reyneke Reserve Red. 2019

The wine is 100% Syrah and again from selected parcels of the vineyard.

On the nose, blueberry pie, ripe fruit, pie crust, vanilla, coffee grounds, fresh garigue herbs. Iodine? Ripe blue and blackberries, powdery tannins, a herbal liquor note, savoury notes of grilled meat, full body and fresh acidity. Complex and very long. So good now that it will be hard to keep ones hands off this to let it mature! (Tasted at the farm and again back in London where again the wine benefited with time in the glass.)

Cornerstone 2019

A blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in this vintage.

The wine is named after the Cornerstone project.  Johan sees the workers as the cornerstone of the business, farm workers generally receive low wages as there is high unemployment and viticulture is the least profitable part of the industry. Scheme aims to empower workers with housing and education using profits from the winery.

Classic cassis, black current leaf, black current jam and a touch of sawdust on the nose. Austere at first, black fruits, green pepper, coffee grounds, slightly drying grainy tannins. Tasted again in London it opens up and fruit fills out the palate with bit of air. Still fairly primal at this young stage but good potential.

There is a vibrancy and depth to these wines which is compelling and it’s a quality that the Wander Curtis team have noticed on multiple occasions in other Biodynamic wines by producers such as Felton Road and Chateau Pontet-Canet. On every level there is definitely something to Biodynamic wine making.


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Domaine Foivos, Cephalonia

Assos sunset

The late afternoon breeze begins to dissipate the heat of the day, the sun gently sinks over the sea, islands in the distance emerge in silhouette as the sky shades pink and purple. Evening time on the Greek islands.  Hard to improve on that I hear you murmur? 

Well actually there is a way to dial up the experience: make sure you are enjoying a glass of chilled Robola on the island of Cephalonia!

In Captain Corelli’s Mandolin the bottles of Robola that the drunken priest downs while hiding from his flock would bear, I imagine, little relation to the excellent wines the island currently produces.  However, the storey does serve to illustrate the very long tradition of wine making on the island which stretches back over centuries of Venetian influence.

Wine is produced on several of the Ionian islands but Cephalonia is known as the home of one of the best Greek white wines Robola. Perhaps not as famous as Santorini’s Assyrtiko but definitely worth searching out particularly if you enjoy fresh, crisp and minerally wines with elegance and structure. The best are grown in poor limestone soils high up on mount Ainos.

Grapes drying at Sclavos Wines

Robola is not the only show in town though indeed there is a bewildering array of grape varieties grown on the island. The other main grape varieties are Mavrodaphne and Muscat Blanc.  Mavrodaphne is a red grape traditionally used to produce a sweet red wine, thanks to the Venetians love of the Passito method of sun drying their grapes, but now also made into a delicious dry reds too.

Local wines are widely available in all the tavernas, many stocking the excellent entry level Robola produced by the Cephalonia Cooperative which arrives in a cloth sack. Also, sometimes some more premium higher altitude and even single vineyard Robolas by the Cooperative and wineries such as Gentilini. Do try the various alarmingly coloured rose wines (think Aperol Spritz) that are made on the island too!

Sadly, I only managed to visit Sclavos Wines and Domaine Foivos whilst on the island and as Adam has recently reviewed Sclavos Winery here I will focus on Domaine Foivos.

Domaine Foivos

Domaine Foivos was formed when Theodore Orkopoulos bought the Matzavino family winery which is one of the oldest wineries in Greece. In fact, Theodore believes that Homer mentions the wines in the Iliad!

The estates vineyards are located in different parts of the island and contain a large range of very old indigenous grape varieties many of which are pre-phylloxera.  Since the phylloxera louse killed off most native European vines by attacking their roots nearly all modern vines have been grafted onto American vine roots which are resistant so it is unusual to find old ungrafted vines that have survived.

It became evident during our three hour long tasting that Theodore possesses just the sort of boundless enthusiasm and a relentlessly enquiring mind needed to fully grasp the wine making opportunities that this precious library of vines presents.

Theodore Orkopoulos winemaker at Domaine Foivos

We started with a master class on Robola show casing different wine making techniques applied to grapes from the vineyards on mount Ainos.

Black Label Cephalonian Robola, 2021.

The vines are fully pressed and allowed a bit of skin contact.

The nose is a little floral with a touch of pink grapefruit. On the palate nice fruit, good balance and freshness and a pleasant prickle from the skin contact. A very nice wine that has tension and character.

Blue Label Cephalonian Robola, 2021.

This wine is also made with a full press but without any skin contact.

A refined nose of peach and wet stone. In the mouth a slimmer body and softer acidity with good length.  This wine is available in the UK.  It would work well as an aperitif to go with the sunset followed by the black label with dinner at the local Taverna.

Barcarola Cephalonian Robola, 2021.

This version of Robola is made with only the first free run juice of a selection of the grapes.

It has quite a different nose, much more perfumed, floral with delicate citrus notes.  Theodore describes it as more pure expression of the grape. Again, a lighter body, very nicely balanced with a long lingering finish. This is a more premium wine.

Orange Robola 2021

This wine is made with 5 days skin contact which is relatively restrained by natural wine making standards so it is not very ‘orange’ in appearance. Possibly why I liked it so much! Ripe fruit on the nose, white peach, rounder on the palate with more ripe fruits and a nice prickly sensation. Very tasty.

Amphora Robola, 2021

This wine is made in small clay amphora.

On the nose more herbal notes over the top of peach, wet stony notes and something floral like lilac. Also complex in the mouth with a very nice texture and length.

East – West Robola + Assyrtiko, 2020

This wine is a 50:50 mix of Robola from Domaine Foivos and Assyrtiko from Zanthi.

It has a rich nose of peach and other tropical fruits and on the palate a lovely a mix of peach fruit and salty citric notes from the Assyrtiko.

Asteris Robola Rose, 2020

A bit of mavrodaphne is added to give a splash of juicy fruit to layer on top of the peach and citrus profile of the Robola. This is not one of the alarming coloured roses mentioned in the introduction, looks very respectable.

Lemona Sun dried Robola, 2012

Grapes are dried in the sun for up to 20 days. Then pressed to make this amazing sweet wine.  Around 10kg of grapes are needed for each half bottle!

On the nose sweet fruit, caramel. In the mouth complex flavours of lemon, nuts and honey. Very long, great balance with real lift and length.

Appropriately named after Lemona goddess of the environment.

Foivos is one of the few wineries offering so many versions of Robola and it’s a result of Theodoros’ continuing search to discover all aspects of the grape.

The masterclass of Robola over, Theodore explained what had prompted him to start to experiment with using amphora. It’s understood that the ancient Greeks heavily watered their wine down and Theodore wanted to find out why.  He set about making wine using clay amphora in the way that the ancients did, which included adding wooden staves and found that the results were good. However, Theodore realised that storage of the wine in clay amphorae over weeks and months would cause the wine to oxidise badly.  So, the theory is that by the time the important religious festivals came around in the new year the wine from the last harvest would have needed to be heavily diluted to make it drinkable.

Theodore also believes that the ancient Greeks stored wines under water possibly to try and prevent it spoiling through oxidation and this has also led Foivos to carry out some very interesting experiments in aging wine under the sea.

Nautilus White, 2021

Made from blend of Tsaousi, Vostilidi, Muscatel and Muscat grapes this wine is bottle aged for 6 months in the winery aquarium which creates and environment of total darkness, constant temperature and lack of oxygen. On the nose lemon pith, lemon peel, fresh green herbs and a floral note. In the mouth round, medium acidity, more pith and citrus notes with a pleasant slight bitter bite at the end. Very vibrant and long. Available in the UK.

Nautilus Rose, 2021.

Mavrodaphne, Muscatel, Muscat, Tsaousi and Vostilidi grapes. Also bottle aged in the winery tank.  Very aromatic, wild flowers and wet stones.  On the palate soft red fruits, super dry with a fresh lift and a dry salty finish. Very nice in deed.  Exported to British Columbia amoungst other places.

47 and 47 Undersea

47, 2017

The wine is a remarkable blend of 47 varieties: 41 whites and 6 reds to make a rose. This is where the field ‘library’ of indigenous grape varieties comes in.

Mineral, stony notes on the nose with fresh cut soft red fruit. On the palate strawberries, raspberries then baked lemon, very fresh.  Complex with waves of flavours, long.

47 Undersea, 2017

As if 47 wasn’t extraordinary enough the same 47 varieties have also been bottle aged for 18 months under sea. The wine is stored in cages at depth of 22 m. As with the Nautilus wines this ensures, darkness, constant temperature and lack of oxygen but in addition higher than atmospheric pressure and a saline environment.

This wine has a different nose to the straight 47, with less obvious fruit, the fruit more integrated with the mineral notes. In the mouth tangy fruit salad flavours, complex with a stony and salty edge.  Amazing to see the difference to the non-sea aged version

Red varieties.

Myesis, 2017 (initiation)

Made of 3 grapes mostly Mavrodaphne but with Cephalonian varieties: Theiako and Araklino.

A nice whiff of marzipan oh the nose with a bit of spice. A good medium body with soft rounded fruit and subtle barrel notes. 

Daphne Daphne, 2016

This is a dry wine made from 100% Mavrodaphne. On the nose, plums, farmyard, smoke. In the mouth medium body, a bit of lift, dark fruits and savoury notes, medium soft tannins.  Very tasty.

Amphora Red, 2021.

Another dry red mostly Mavrodaphne with 15% Vostilidi. The clay amphora gives the wine an overdose if oxygen for about 2 weeks while it ferments. Also, the amphora mean that the fermentation temperature is uncontrolled.

Nice balance, medium acidity, soft but mouth coating tannins. Lovely.

42, 2016

Another remarkable blend this time of 42 red varieties from heritage vineyards. Theodore says the grapes compete in the glass to come out on top, a continuing battle with new winners presenting themselves at each stage of the wine’s development. A rich nose of dark and red fruit and smoke. Medium body, a kaleidoscope of fruits, toasty notes, complex. Delicious!

Methyse, 2004.

Named after a follower of Dionysus the god of winemaking.

This is the traditional sweet wine of Mavrodaphne.

Super dark in colour, nose of chocolate, Kirsch, dried oranges and Christmas spices. Sweet but with enough freshness to lift it, complex and very long. A real treat!

Tasting the Foivos range of wines with Theodore at his cellar was a fascinating experience! It is wonderful that way he takes inspiration from the past, cherishes local heritage and yet continues to explore and experiment with new ways of expressing the wines. Do seek out the wines and try them.


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Maison Chapoutier Wine dinner at Frederick’s Restaurant Wednesday September 29th 7.30pm

There was no better way to celebrate our first wine dinner since the start of the Covid pandemic than with the inimitable wines of Michel Chapoutier.

Maison Chapoutier was founded in 1808 and Michel Chapoutier took charge in 1988, he became the seventh generation of his family to run the Domaine. All his vineyards are farmed biodynamically.

We were lucky enough to meet the eccentric and amiable Michel at a party in his Maison when we arrived in Tain Hermitage some years ago. His wines are extremely high quality.

They have vineyards in the best sites including Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, St Peray, Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

They also produce in other areas of France such as Roussillon and outside France including Australia Portugal and Germany

Guillaume Lafragette, Brand Manager of M.Chapoutier presenting excellent wines


The atmosphere in the Club room at Frederick’s marked the occasion.
A packed crowd on 34 wine lovers included new recruits including a cohort of wine enthusiasts, currently doing their WSET exams. We started with an introduction of Chapoutier.
Guillaume Lafragette Chapoutier brand manager was equally as excited to be back to live events as our attendees

The wines showed incredibly well. Stuart’s Tasting notes below-

Esteban, Domaine de la Combe Pilate, VDF, Sparkling, White

Made using methode ancestralle where there is only a single fermentation which is stopped while the wines are put in a capped bottle to finish without any added yeast or sugar (unlike methode champenoise/traditionelle).

Light bubbles, bready, with a faint apricot nose. Opened up as it warmed up to expose more Viognier character. 9% ABV, very drinkable, not overly complex.

M. Chapoutier Les Tanneurs, Saint-Péray, White

100% Marsanne made in stainless steel. Apples, citrus fruit, mineral nose. Body medium +, acidity med +, very good balance between the fruit and acidity, with a lingering saline and slightly bitter finish. Very elegant, long and worthy of its place.

M. Chapoutier Mathilde Duché d’Uzès Southern rhone blend

A fuller wine made from a blend of Viognier, Grenache blanc, Marsanne and Roussane, fermented and aged in stainless steel, from clay-limestone soils. Apricots and other ripe fruit, some white flowers (Viognier), balanced with the cut of acidity from the Marsanne and Roussane, creating a beautiful blend that somehow balanced all the different weights and flavours.

M. Chapoutier Sicamor, Crozes-Hermitage, Red

100% Syrah from Crozes Hermitage, made in concrete tanks. A very typical Syrah nose of leather, spices, pepper, and black fruit, with great balance. Showing some meaty notes as the wine opened up, with a penetrating fruit concentration, fine tannins and lovely overall balance. A very classic example of Crozes.

Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem Cotes de Roussillon

Blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan from Roussillon. A brute of a wine, dark in colour, exploding with garrigue and dried dark fruit, very herbaceous and spicy nose. On the palate, the wine overwhelms, with a bit of fiery bite, biting tannins as you get a sense of the individual parts of this wine as well as a good dollop of the 14.5% ABV. The wine is still quite primary, not quite knit, but based on experience, will evolve into a balanced beautiful expression of the terroir. Give it 5-7 yrs same to tame and settle.

M. Chapoutier Bila-Haut Banyuls

Made from 100% Grenache noir, fermentation stopped by the addition of alcohol to create this 17% sweet and elegant dessert wine. Chocolate powder notes with kirsch, liquer dipped cherries. Smooth and delicious with both the chocolate pot and surprisingly, the Stilton. From 500cl bottles

My favourites on the night were the St Peray 100% Marsanne for it smooth full body and texture. Stuart was more of a fan of the Clos d’uzes Mathilde and the fruit packed well balanced Sicamor Crozes Hermitage.

I was pining for mature cheese with the Banyuls rather than the chocolate dessert.
True to form my father delved into his travel bag and delivered a selection of mature cheeses including Michel Chapoutier personal favorite Blue Stilton.

We would like to especially thank the excellent Hatch Mansfield for their great assistance with this dinner.


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Finca L’Argata Grenache 2016, Joan D’Anquera, Monstant

Wish I’d cleaned the glass better (and the windows)…

I bought this from Bordeaux Index (BI – yes, they’ve changed their name back to the original, and frankly, I thought BI was much easier to say/remember/refer to) a few months back, and excitedly took delivery earlier this week. They loved this wine, and I think they are right!

The wine comes from 40-60 year old Grenache vines on sandy limestone soils, next door to Priorat. Fermented with whole clusters and aged in neutral oak for 14-16 months. The wine was £23 all in.

Appearance

Translucent light ruby, reminiscent of a light bodied pinot noir. I could swear it got darker as the evening wore on.

Nose

Red ripe jammy cherries, strawberry jam, cherry lollipop, cherry liqueur, with an explosive wild floral , dried thyme, oregano, dried rosemary, freshly sawn wood, and some funky deeply ripe fruit note that I’m having trouble putting my finger on. Salty blood comes out after a couple of hours. So perfumed! If tasted blind, my first impression would likely have led me to Volnay in the Cote de Beaune.

A truly spellbinding nose, I just want to sit and take in all the aromas!

Taste

Intense yet light ripe cherries, alcohol-steeped strawberries, strawberry jam, with a sharp, tart palate cleansing wash of acidity. I would say acidity in this is medium+. The taste deepens with time in the glass, developing a more broody, bloody/meaty concentration, darker cherries and plums, with that funky aroma supporting the overall taste.

Tannins are very fine, higher than I expected, medium to medium+, dusting my cheeks fully with just a little prickle of electricity.

Alcohol is a little separated from the fruit, leaving a warming flush in the mouth then throat. The finish is really long, ending sweet and savoury with that funky dark ripe fruit afterglow. I think the finish must be 1 minute +.

Conclusion

This is a super complex wine just at the start of its life, I’m not sure how I will hold onto the other bottles long enough to let them develop (especially if I tell Adam about this…..Oops)

The funky aromatics and taste (a good thing) are explained by the whole cluster fermentation, and I can’t help thinking the complex perfumed nose could also be attributable to this winemaking technique. The age of the vines likely helps explain the concentration, acidity and tannin levels which all contribute to make this a truly complete wine.

A steal at £23. Highly recommended.


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Blind Tasting, an exploration of Bordeaux Varietals. Can you tell Cabernet Sauvignon from Cabernet Franc or Merlot?

Stuart’s challenge this week was blind reds, Bordeaux varietals predominant, a blend but had to be >65% of one of the main current Bordeaux varietals – Cab Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, excluding Malbec, any age and from anywhere.

We would have to draw upon our favourite tome ‘Beyond Flavour’ by Nick Jackson MW and remind ourselves of some key distinguishing features of the varietals.

Cabernet Sauvignon has medium to high levels of fine grained tightly knit tannins, always felt on the gums not the tongue. (Hole in the middle of palate) The sleek tannin structure is linear with a strong sense of direction enhanced by good retention of acidity.

Merlot’s fine grained tannins are also felt on the gums but they are fruit wrapped and can sometimes feel a bit sticky/clayey.

They are so richly fruited that the tannins are often less obtrusive in Merlot than Cabernet Sauvignon. Furthermore the feel of the tannins can lead to a more square sensation rather than the linearity of Cabernet Sauvignon. Also there is no hole in the mid palate as Merlot has such rich ripe fruit concentration. As opposed to Cabernet Sauvignon it can quickly lose its acidity and require acidification.

Cabernet Francs grainy stalky moderate tannins are also felt on the gums. It preserves its acidity well and has savoury red fruits and obvious pyrazines with a strong herbaceous streak.

Carmenere is described as green on green

Malbec has intense colourmay display high ‘lockjaw tannins’ especially at the angle of the jaw, with sweet fruit ending dry.

Petit Verdot is  often perfumed with floral violet notes

The natural woody cedar flavours of the Bordeaux varietals enable them to blend so well with oak maturation also allowing gentle oxidation.

We had initially explored this theme a few months ago (including Malbec) tasting notes  below.

Blind tasting Bordeaux varietals January 2021

Kiran’s wine

Musty, leather, earthy, cedar, perfume, boot polish, menthol.

Complex nose, very fine resolved tannins, powdery, not at angle of jaw, sweetness, black fruit medium + acid Med + Savoury persistent drying tannins. Delicious complex savoury balanced wine

We thought 15 to 20 years old as mainly tertiary notes no particular pyrazines and suggested a Malbec.

2006 Jean-Luc Baldes Clos Triguedina ‘Probus’, Cahors, France 100% Malbec

Adam’s wine

Green pepper, herbs, black currant leaf.

Herbaceous green pointing to S America for Stu re green and herbaceous

Stu getting lockjaw tannins

Marked acidity with our mouth’s still watering.

The greenness and acidity pointed us to Cabernet Franc, though not particularly red fruited.

Cabernet  Franc Valdivieso 2015 chile

Stuart’s

Bell pepper, pyrazines, floral hint of volatile acidity, dried lilies, red fruits  some cassis, woody cedar and savoury.

Lovely balance and  length with complexity resolved tannins horseshoe profile

We felt this must be old world.

Grand Puy Lacoste 2000

75% Cabernet Sauvignon 20% Merlot 5% Petit Verdot

Blind tasting Bordeaux varietals April 19th 2021

Kiran’s wine

Medium to deep garnet clearly showing some age, on the nose  Kiran detected baked plums and milk chocolate , Stu – Spices plum compote possible strawberry.

Adam got more spiced wood  cedar also an oxidative nose, finishes a little Savoury/salty no pyrazine of note

On the palate soft resolved tannins very fine powdery dusty gum tannins mainly, medium plus acidity.

We were pretty certain this was a Merlot dominant right bank Bordeaux of probably premier cru level St Emillion of about 15 to 20 years old

2007 Sophia Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay New Zealand

Merlot dominated Cabernet Franc Petit Verdot blend

This surprised us, though Hawkes Bay is pretty much as close as you can get for this style in the New world and I’m sure Steve Smith MW who we’ve done many tastings with will be delighted to know the outcome of our blind tasting thoughts.

I visited Craggy Range last year and saw the dedicated winery built just for Sophia.

Stu’s wine

Initially charred smoky charcoals cloves spices herbaceous

Smooth soft ripe tannins sweetness.

Full lush perfumed nose, black pepper, incense, sandalwood, young cedar sap from tree

Juicy fruity  slightly sticky feel in the mouth

Kiran gets green pepper pyrazine no one mentioned fruit.

Fresh pour some green pepper stalky

Lavished with oak

Delicious aromatic

Reminds me of Pomerol for no more a reason than I really loved it, an Emotional memory of previous Pomerols often shared with Stuart

Château Feytit clinet 2005 Pomerol

(95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc)

Adams wine

Sweet fruit, strawberry plum fruit forward blackberry

Spiciness, Smoky cloves barrel

Stu got Jammy baked fruit

Stu sure dried fruit warm climate and found raisins

Tannin on the gums drying medium plus acidity

Guidealberto Tenuta San Guido IGT 2015

Cabernet Sauvignon dominated cab Merlot blend from the famous Sassicaia winery in Bolgheri.

Learning points

Focusing on tannins is invaluable. Merlots certainly felt sweeter fruit wrapped and sticker

New Zealand and other New world regions with age can very closely resemble the old world. If in doubt lack of any pyrazines(herbaceous bell pepper blackcurrant leaf cassis notes) unlikely to be Bordeaux

Pyrazines are more often found with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc less so with Merlot which has lusher fruitier spectrum with softer tannins and no hole in the palate


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Blind wine tasting April 6th 2021

Kiran’s very fine choice this week!

The theme this week was back to the original that we started with at the beginning of lockdown. Blind anything.

Kiran’s wine

Smoke, Black pepper the most I have experienced.

(Black pepper is a note I have struggled with. Partly because I’ve been trying too hard to find it in Syrah/Shiraz when it’s never been there. The majority of Syrah probably doesn’t have this note. Also because I’ve been looking for spices, when in fact, after obsessionally smelling pepper grinders for the last few weeks I now realise it’s more of a floral woody note spice yes but much more complex than that.)

This wine had it in abundance- Floral violet blackberry, wood spice.

Soft tannins mainly on the tongue less so upper palate

Medium plus acid medium alcohol

A lovely Elegant balanced wine

Reminiscent of Pinot Noir but the clear black pepper nose countered that.

Stuart and I were pretty sure this a Northern Rhône Syrah, the elegant style. We had all visited Rene Rostaing a few years ago and this reminded us of that style. Delicious

Wine was

Francois Villard 2012 Cote Rôtie Le Gallet Blanc

The wine is produced from mostly Syrah with a hint of Viognier, 1% or 2% of the blend.

The berries are whole cluster fermented and up to 30% of the grapes are destemmed. The wine is then aged in an average of 50% new, French oak barrels for up to 18 months. A lovely wine highly recommended

Stuart’s wine

(Served in Bordeaux bottle)

Red strawberry chews, very clearly red fruit a little later some beeswax hint vegetal sweet spice.

Soft tannins all over mouth with high acid,fresh, puckering salivary glands

We thought Pinot, possible laterals Grenache but didn’t have the alcohol/body and had very fresh cool climate acidity.

Bonnes Marres 2011 Drouhin Larose

Bonnes-Mares is a grand cru in the Cote de nuits, mostly within Chambolle Musigny with a small 1.5 hectare (3.7ac) plot in neighboring Morey-Saint-Denis

The style of Drouhin-Laroze is between modern and traditional style with moderate use of oak. Based in Gevrey-Chambertin, Drouhin-Laroze owns range of Grand Cru across the Cote d’Or.

Adam’s wine

Rhubarb, red fruit, smoke, liquorice, hint leather complex

Soft tannins all over medium palate medium acid, length Delicious

Château de Beaucastel 2001, Château neuf du pape

Remarkably young for 20 years drinking beautifully.

A blend of 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, 10% Counoise, and the balance split among the other permitted varietals. From the Perrin family’s largely organic and biodynamic vineyards

Dessert wine

Brown, thick, viscous, unctuous,Dates figs raisins molasses syrupyThick very very sweet mouth coating.Thoughts ? Pedro Ximenez you could stand a spoon in this!

Esszencia Tokaji Château Pazjos 1993

We didn’t know Kiran had this up his sleeve.Served in miniature bottles containing 100 ml only.From Sárospatak Alcoholic Content: 4.7 % volAcidity: 12.5 g/l A whopping 435g/l residual sugar

435grams per litre!!


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Chianti and Confit

Kiran’s choice this week, and it was to be our first non blind tasting for over a year. Kiran was seeking an exploration of Chianti, one of his blind spots. After listening to the excellent Guild of Sommeliers podcast on Sangiovese it further inspired this weeks theme.

A trio of Chianti wines

It was a little disconcerting arriving with uncovered bottles but it had its own merits and still presented us with many learning points.

Of course we had pre read the indispensable ‘Beyond flavour’ by Nick Jackson MW which primed us into what structure to expect. However there were some revelations in store.

 

Kiran’s wine

Monte Bernardi Sa’etta Chianti Classico riserva 2016

100% Sangiovese single vineyard oak 24 months bottle 1 year

Appearance– Medium ruby

Nose– tart cherry thyme tobacco spice savoury profile

Taste-Very drying gum tannins fine sand or chalky. Clearly felt in the gums medium + and med + acidity

Med acid very dry dusty no real sweetness

Savoury salty flavour profile cherry strawberry

No tertiary aromas

This felt like a typical Chianti and was crying out for a tomato pasta dish

Adam’s wine

Brolio Barone Ricasoli 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva

Very different nose clearly pyrazine blackcurrant, blackcurrant leaf

Herbaceous, chocolate vanilla yoghurt smoother ? Oak influence

Smooth sweeter softer tannins mainly gums

If Tasted blind we all said we would have thought this was a Cabernet based wine. Tannic quality a little different but on the nose clear pyrazine.

Sangiovese 80% Merlot 15% Cabernet Sauvignon 5% aged in barrique and tonneaux for 16 months

Learning points

Small amounts of other varietals can make a profound difference

Chianti Classico wines can vary enormously

Stuart’s wine.

Il Carbonaione 2016 Podere Poggii Scalette

Sangiovese 100% IGT from older vines planted in 1928 from the rare Sangiovese di lamole clone

Red fruits dried and jammy some dark fruit cinnamon stick Vanilla tobacco Tinned cola

Mouth more powerful wine

Notable oak vanilla

Gummy distribution tannins finish savoury

This was a more robust expression of Sangiovese again showing the great diversity of Chianti. In some ways this provides greater interest in other you don’t know quite what to expect.

As with all Italian wines food is needed, fortunately, Kiran hade made a delectable Confit duck and red cabbage


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Château de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf du Pape 2009

Friday evening, time for wine – but what to try?

I went for a bottle of the CdP, first coravin’d in January this year. I knew this is a mere pup in terms of its evolution but I was curious and needed something bold.

Popped and poured, no decanting, but let to sit in the Zalto for a half hour before tasting.

Colour

Medium to deep ruby

No signs of age on the rim

Numerous red hued tears working their way down the glass, clearly a powerful wine

Nose

First impression on the nose: wild cherry and wild herbs – thyme, oregano. Then a spritz of black pepper, black liquorice, kirsch, just a hint of acetone, old leather chair, ripe blackberry, cola, blood, and a little background smoke. The nose is so complex and constantly evolving.

Taste

Real energy in this wine, with a strong streak of savoury tannins that shoot down the tongue (Syrah), followed by a sensation of prickly bitterness in the cheeks that just linger (Grenache), along with drying upper gums (Mourverdre).

Acidity is unexpected, medium +, and lingers deceptively.

The finish is very savoury and dry, with the Mourverdre showing its character in this very young wine, very savoury, a little bitter. The sweetness is in the bottom of the wine (thinking of it in taste layers) as the Grenache comes out to play leaving a sweet impression in the mouth. Fruit is perfectly ripe, possibly a little baked.

This is very very long, and with that lingering sweetness you get a better sense of the weight of this wine. There is some heat on the finish too, and at 14.5% ABV, I guess that this is to be expected. It feels like the wine has not quite knit yet, the elements are all a little separate at this stage of evolution.

Powerful, complex and youthful, this is going to be a wine for the ages, likely drinking well into its 3rd decade – a wine for the patient who will be handsomely rewarded! Well done, famille Perrin!


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Improve your blind wine tasting skills.

WanderCurtis Wine, Tasting Tips: Improve your blind wine tasting skills.

 

Celebrating the first tasting in person after 3 months of Zoom tastings!

 

These last few months of forced isolation have provided the perfect opportunity to hone our blind wine tasting skills while enjoying a brief weekly escape from the tedium of lockdown..

Kiran, Stuart and I have taken turns to drop off decanted blind samples of wine to our doorsteps (carefully sanitising the bottles and minimising any contact, of course) then analysing them via Zoom with each other. More recently we have been doing this outdoors in each other’s gardens – all with minimal hints and desire to fool the others using various techniques such as decanting into the completely wrong bottle and glass shapes for the type of wines being tasted!

We want to share our notes with you as well as some of our learnings about how to find the ‘tells’ for some of the wines that gave us trouble.

 

After all, wines with friends is always better than wine alone!

 

The wine notes and learning points are detailed below:

 

Tasting 1 – April 26th 2020  – First Zoom tasting

 

Adam’s – deep ruby red, fruit forward, mainly black and blue fruits, compact a bit tight at this moment, nice touch of oak. Opinion was a new world wine probably Cabernet, still tight so age given as quite young 5-10 years.

Torres Mas La Plana 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon – an early killer blow dealt given that this was a wine at one of our tastings. Challenge set.

 

Stuart’s -Burnt smoke, spice, black fruits, complex, thoughts were Syrah given fruit profile and spice, we narrowed down to old world and Rhone Syrah. Age was thought to be very young, around 5 – 8 years.

Cote Rotie Guigal d’Ampuis 2010 Rhône – A good piece of deduction by the boys

 

Kiran’s – tertiary notes definitely old vegetal, compost, urine, pale colour. Could not distinguish varietal as too old all tertiary, but smelled of an aged Bordeaux. We were very close on age and left bank Bordeaux blend (Stuart said 1995)

Chateau Langoa Barton 1996 – pretty much nailed this one

 

Learning points

 

Don’t forget all the places around the world producing quality Cabernet Sauvignon. Italy, France (Bordeaux of course), Chile, California, South Africa not to mention Australia! Spain had us fooled despite having conducted one of our wine dinner tastings at Frederics with this wine!

See the excellent Wine Folly website for more details

 

Tasting 2 – May 3rd 2020 – Zoom

 

Adam’s – lemon citric petrolic nice mouthfeel length, but not oily! Kiran and Stuart believed this to be Semillon based, new world, and fairly old like 10 years.

 2012 ‘Margaret’ Peter  Lehman Sémillon Barossa – spot on with the detective work

 

 

 

Kiran’s – delicious, red fruits perfume, wild strawberry, earth, floral, violets, mixed spice

We thought classic NZ Pinot and likely Central Otago given perfumed red fruit in abundance and quality. Stuart and I both though of C Otago Pinot Noir, and thought Felton Road Bannockburn, about 6-8 years old.

2010 Mt Difficultly, Bannockburn Pinot Noir , central Otago. This was at a great drinking age and showed how well NZ Pinot’s can be a decade on, unfortunately Kiran’s last bottle!

 

Stuart’s – complex, herbal, cinnamon, spice, savoury, blood meat, good acidity and  tannins, thought Italy because of structure. Kiran and I had a lengthy discussion about whether it was Nebbiolo or Sangiovese, and then correctly landed on Sangiovese, a younger wine, like 5-8 years old.

Brunello di Montalcino 2010 Argiano – a tough one but we landed on our feet

 

Learning points

 

Ageing potential of New World wines is often underappreciated.

If stuck between Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, think about the tannins. The merciless tannins in Nebbiolo will be the tell.

 

Tasting 3 – Sunday May 10th 2020 –  Zoom

 

Stuart’s – White, lots of colour, golden, oxidative hazelnut texture ++ full body Med  acid more like a red re:body, lees, wood, drying tannin slight salty savoury after taste whisky. Stu says floral orange blossom. Guess was Rhone varietals and a blend.

St Joseph Blanc 2015 Vins de Vienne Roussane/ Marsanne – excellent work!

 

Kiran’s –  red. full of raspberry’s very ripe, blueberry with medium drying tannins and med + acid. Reminded of Italy savoury blood meat kept thinking of beef Florentine? Possibly Barolo or Brunello but not coal tar roses and not mixed spices of Brunello, not harsh enough tannins

Key was blood savoury after taste liquorice. Then we thought possibly Brunello.

It was actually a GSMC mix, which fits G red fruits ++ M savoury blood salty, liquorice spice great wine and in retrospect there wasn’t enough acid and tannins for Barolo/ Italy and red fruits much too overt, almost new world,

Coudolet de Beaucastel 2009 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah, 20% Cinsault – what a delicious wine, we were all very animated about how enjoyable this was

 

Adam’s – cocoa, coffee, chocolate, wood ++ , Kiran cola, black fruit, floral, Stuart Balsamic vanilla coconut wood, delicious drinking beautifully.

Stu got Rioja but I asked him what else it could be and diverted him to GSM mix. Correctly guess Rioja, and approximate age (10-15 years, possibly 09)

Contino réserva 2007  – missed out on which maker despite having tried it on numerous occasions so a little disappointed

 

Learning points

 

Italy and Spain laterals of Sangiovese v Nebbiolo

GSM blends can be like Chianti/Tuscan but Italians are more acidic and tannins a bit harsher.

Noted that Coudolet de Beaucastel is an EXCELLENT wine, and I (Adam) went on to buy a case of 2016 which is delicious, moreish and nearly gone already!

 

 

 

Tasting 4 – Sunday May 17th  – Zoom

 

Adam’s – Blackberry pepper Med + acid, drying tannins a little austere poor year tasted more old world thought GSM Rhone blend. The wine had that garrigue character, and a lightness with good acidity so thought potentially a higher altitude wine but Stu and Kiran dismissed Malbec

Zuccardi Mountain vineyards Uco valley, Argentina,2014 Malbec  – fooled by this one

 

Kiran’s – med acid ++ pickled lemon, floral, Stu apricots, flowers. long (no petrol). Very full body, a more heavyweight wine. Stu and I got aromatic varietal, were torn between Gruner, Riesling and possibly Albarino.

Riesling FX pichler 2013 smaragd Austria –  a beautiful fuller bodied style of Gruner

 

Stu’s –   Wow wish I hadn’t dropped my bottle on the pavement!

Big nose+++ polished wood, floral, pot pourri, tar, liquorice, in the finish sandalwood caramel acid ++ tannin++ drying

Awesome wine very complex nose and well-balanced palate – thought aged Barolo, around 15 years old.

Azelia 2001 Barolo Bricco Fiasco – this was in such a beauty

 

Learning points – Laterals to GSM think Malbec as red plum and black fruits similar structure, medium tannins and med low acidity. Malbec, weak spots need better strategies to identify it, and most definitely drink more high-altitude Malbec!

 

Showed just how great Barolo ages over many decades. Other great vintages include 1999 2001 2004 2006 2010

 

Tasting 5 – May 24th – Zoom

 

Adam’s – lots of fruit, leather. Medicinal, cough linctus, menthol eucalyptus liquorice. Kiran and Stu both got Shiraz, Stu thought it was Shiraz Cab blend, about 15-20 years old.

Henshke  Keyneton Euphonium 2001 Shiraz-based blend. Such a pleasure to drink!

 

Kiran’s – Honey poss. Botrytis, ginger. Old feel, me honey and hay, phenolic feel slight bitterness on the finish and some tannins – surprising.

Med + acid not high, Stu bruised apple thought possibly aged Chablis, too honeyed, about 10 yrs old.

Domain Huet Chenin Blanc 2012 – this one got us, although we both thought about Chenin at some point

 

Stu’s – pot pourri ++ light colour ? Pinot soft powdery tannins salty savoury aftertaste

Kiran wood ++, nutmeg clove spices, balsamic character. Final thoughts – Kiran – very clearly Rioja

Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 2001 (95%Tempranillo) – experience counts!

 

Learning points – Remember laterals for very old wines, age brings soft elegance colour fades like old Rioja resembling a Pinot.

Australian wines 20+ years old can age beautifully

If find botrytis in white wine think Chenin, Gruner

Must drink more Chenin!

 

 

 

Tasting 6 – Adam’s Garden

 

Kiran’s – Initially Gewürztraminer nose terpenes floral ripe stone fruits

Glycerol thick oily lovely mouthfeel medium + acid

Not floral enough for Gewürztraminer no bitter finish acid a bit higher thought viognier poss Gruner did not get white pepper

Stu found mineral seashell herbaceous wood. Didn’t get this one.

Emmerich Knoll smaragd 2010 Reid Shutt Gruner Veltliner known as a floral site, fantastic wine ++

 

Adam’s – Tarry medicinal spirity initially closed. Later floral cherry in alcohol

Stu complex Coca Cola violets flowers

Kiran complexity spirity spices development ? Uccelleria Brunello 2010

Barbaresco Produttori di Barbaresco Riballa 2007  – absolutely lovely and changed a lot as evening went on tannin++

 

Stu’s – Adam initially Pinot old excellent quality turmeric nutmeg cinnamon spices tea dried flowers pot pourri not much fruit, compost+ manure earth tertiary

Tannin+ drying and acid high

Thought could not be Pinot re tannins ? Chianti? Age about 10-15 years.

1999 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru “Clos des Epeneaux” known for tannin profile. Missed this wine which was in a fantastic place

 

Learning points.

High quality Burgundy from certain sites can have firm very present tannins also wood age adding to tannins, so don’t rule out Pommard when you get these characteristics

 

Tasting 7 – Zoom

 

Stu’s – Classic toast smoky buttery Malo nose, Chardonnay, honeysuckle, caramel, lemon tart, lovely good acidity but not cleansing or laser like sharp linear (Burgundy)

Both thought Chardonnay

Kiran – Kumeu River? me on reflection NZ too, slightly richer than Burgundy but very close. Landed quite firmly on NZ Chard

Vidal Legacy Hawkes Bay New Zealand 2014 – – great score for Kiran and me!

 

Kiran’s – Very pale brick red, nose dried roses hint of tar liquorice some herbs tannins medium soft sl drying Med + acid

Thought Nebbiolo re nose and colour, quite perfumed.

 Sesti Rosso di Montalcino 2013  – In retrospect tannins too soft for Nebbiolo

 

Adam’s – Very fruit forward blackberry possible cassis

Eucalyptus medicinal herbs Stu and Kiran thinking Aussie Cab/ Shiraz re fruit.

Stu didn’t like tannins slightly bitter and poss out of balance with alcohol

Revealed that it was French

Corbières Serres de Mazard 2017 50% Syrah, 25% Carignan, 20% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre.

 

(After notes probably some carbonic maceration as fruit a little confected/esters) Decanter outstanding in April 2020 edition

 

 

Learning Points

Which region In France produces such fat ripe fruit forward wines akin to New world? Languedoc

New world vs. warm climate Languedoc wines – look for old world techniques like carbonic as a possible differentiator

Tasting 8 –  Stu’s garden

 

Kiran’s – Initially smokey toast oak vanilla aftertaste caramel some lemon rind but predominant 2y Oak

Nice texture and balance Med +acid alcohol texture

Oak predominated

Stu and I both thought Bordeaux semillon sav blend, lacked florality and prettiness of Sauvignon mix. Fruit was missing on this wine.

Château Bouscaut Semillon Sav Graves Pessac Leognan 2012 – the oak and pyrazines were the giveaway on this one

 

Adam’s – Kiran and Stu instantly said Rioja

Balsamic coconut American oak chocolate bounty bar spice turmeric clove cinnamon nutmeg red fruits. Plush anything you want it to be open and giving

Thought réserva Rioja about 10 years old

Protos Gran Réserva Ribera Del Duero 2004

 

Stu’s – Alcoholic. Double tiers of legs! Full body

Closed, struggled to get much

Smokiness perhaps red fruit

Acid medium

Tannins medium/ low

Hard to gauge soft tannins Med acid high alcohol bit of spice red fruits ? Hint carbonic/ esterification. Thought southern Rhône blend Grenache predominant

2013 Chapoutier Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem Grenache Syrah Carignan

 

Tasting 9 – Adams garden

 

Kiran’s – Terpenes variety, white flowers peach aromatic nose

Same palate, acid medium to med + not searing acidity

Something petrolic on nose implies age thought poss Riesling but detected some texture from lees or oak not done in Riesling

Difficult one to nail aromatic variety warmer climate possibly Riesling,Gruner, Albariño ,Viognier, Stu thought maybe pepper

Blank Canvas Gruner Veltliner 2013 New Zealand  – this one fooled us and had some new French oak to make it even harder. The next day Kiran’s NZ Gruner even better, really textured with botrytis honey petrol smoke mandarin smaragd like but I still don’t find white pepper!

 

Stu’s – initially nose of glue dope ? VA heady potent

Once that blew off violets blackberry black plum cocoa chocolate baking spices 5 spice wood tannins Med + soft acid medium, high alcohol body high

Thought 14.5% Adam getting a bit drunk

Probably Rioja possibilities Brunello but not acidic or red fruit enough new world Syrah too much oak not obvious black pepper or burnt rubber smoke

 Alion 2003 Ribera del Duero  – A big glamourpuss of a wine, drinking beautifully. Shame that was the last bottle…

 

Adam’s – All tertiary old, mushrooms earth leather

Stu clearly bell pepper and cedar

Thought 20 yr old + left bank initially then to Right bank

Fruit dropped away

1998 Pomerol Chateau Taffellier  –  a wine Stu gave me a few years ago

 

Bonus wine – Kiran

Prunes raisins alcohol full sweet residual sugar almost a port

Adam reminder of trip to Puglia, thought Primitivo

Other possibilities Amarone or Ripasso bit too raisinated and sweetness

San Marzano 62nd Anniversary Primitivo di Manduria

 

Tasting 10 – Kiran’s house

 

Adam’s – First Rosé of the tasting events

Kiran instantly reminds me of strawberries and cream like a Pinot based champagne

Stu red fruits smells like Pinot acidity not that high

Adam smoke toast oak aged sl some red fruit nice texture and mouthfeel

Other possibilities Grenache Shiraz Carignan Cinsault

Became more complex Floral herbaceous

Sylvain Pataille le fleur de pinot 2016 Rose from Pinot oak aged. We tasted this in Sylvain’s cellar last summer and yet we missed it. Shows how hard blind tasting can be.

 

Kiran’s – Huge whiff of cassis pure black fruits later cedar chocolate some hints of pyrazine picked up by Stu ripe, explained as yellow pepper by K

Adam definitely Cabernet based wine very ripe either excellent year Bordeaux or new world toying on Sophia Craggy Range. Stu def Bordeaux, but A not really getting the classic Bordeaux green pepper herbaceous pyrazine notes

Adam, could not put it down for 30 mins and needed top ups. If not New world then is it favourite BDX red. Pontet Canet?

 Chateau Pontet-Canet Pauillac 2005 – Good shout here!

Stu’s –  Freaky wine very dark colour

Initially blood meat savoury

Then coffee ++ chocolate

Than some red fruit floral

Kept changing on us

Hardest wine yet like a schizophrenic high risk patient, constantly changing character

Dark colour black fruit. Obviously barrel aged possibly Syrah Rhône blend but admittedly no confidence with this

Galatrona Petrolo  Merlot 100% Tuscany – made in the style of the great Pomerols like Le Pin and Petrus, 100% Merlot. A crazy wine.

 

Learning points

Don’t forget Merlot, it can make the most sensuous and serious wines ! Merlot is also still the most planted grape variety in France with a lot planted in Italy and many other countries below:

  • France (~280,000+ acres) Bordeaux, Languedoc-Roussillon
  • Italy (~93,000+ acres) Toscana, Campania
  • United States (~55,000+ acres) California, Washington
  • Australia (~39,000 acres) South Australia
  • Chile (~25,000 acres) | Argentina (~13,000 acres

Remember more red fruits, raspberry, plum, black cherry and others Mocha ( strong coffee/chocolate in this wine not necessarily wood but from the grape variety) vanilla clove tobacco graphite cedar

Tasting 11 – Stu’s house

Adam’s –  wine white, oak toast, smoke, coconut, vanilla, also ripe stone fruit peach
Nice balance oak alcohol body a bit oak dominated.
Stuart instantly California Chardonnay
Au Bon Climat Los Alamos Santa Barbara 2018

Kiran’s – Nose cheap red, Stuart instantly disliked.
Adam confected pear drop ? Carbonic esterified red and blue fruits some smoke
One dimensional initially then – violets smoke more tannins changed over time
Thought GSM Rhône re low tannins red fruit Med acid

Zaha Toko Vineyard Malbec 2016 Paraje AlteMira Mendoza – fooled yet again by Malbec!

Stu’s – Bretty nose horses leather band aid all tertiary
Can’t find fruit –  Brett/spoiled?
Not much came through poss. green pepper capsicum poss cassis but mainly tertiary thought old BDX
Château Feytit Clinet 2012 – bottle was clearly not in good condition or the wine was just in a dumb funk

Then tried the 2005 Feytit Clinet over cheese and ManuU v. Southampton

This was more Pomerol-like – Liquorice possibly plums coffee chocolate plum soft round tannins

Learning Points – Don’t forget Malbec if getting a GSM (red fruit, med/low acid medium tannin profile)

Other Blind wine tasting thoughts:

  • White wines low acid – Gewurztraminer, Marsanne, Viognier
  • Whites with phenolic bitterness – Gruner Veltliner, Albarino, Pinot gris
  • Oak aged whites Chardonnay -Sauv/Semillon Bordeaux, Marsanne, Viognier Rhone, Rioja Viura
  • Whites with botyritis (ginger, honey bitterness glue) uneven ripening – Chenin Blanc, Gruner Veltliner
  • Aromatic whites – Gewurz, Torrontes, Muscat, Viognier
  • Minerality – Chablis (?phenols,acidity,sulphur compounds) – Chardonnay is a master transmitter of terroir

 


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Burgundy 2016 en primeur Tasting Notes

We are delighted to announce that Stuart Grostern has joined our team at WanderCurtis.

Stuart has an exceptional palate to match his cellar. His excellent tasting notes  and recommendations spanning 15 years can be found on the Wine Spectator Forum under BirDungy. Below is his valuable insight into Burgundy en primeur 2016.

After having to miss the entire 2015 vintage tasting due to unreasonable work responsibilities, I have rebounded to attend the annual Berry Bros and Rudd Burgundy en primeur tasting. I was fortunate to have arrived early enough to taste some but not all of the greatest wines there, notes below on approx 40 wines.

To start, I think everyone has heard that 2016 was a year badly affected by frost which drastically reduced crop size in some vineyards by as much as 90%. The wines are, therefore, harder to get good allocations of and up (again, especially coupled with Brexit GBP devaluation vs. EUR) in price. However, many of the wines I tasted were beautiful and highly expressive of their place, open to taste, and showing very well during the tasting. Against this, given the ever changing complexion of the region, many new makers are on the rise, with many established makers extending their reach beyond their typical villages. This is not always a good thing, as I found a real mix of newer names, some excellent, and some not so, to be evident from this tasting.

Reds were, in general, open for tasting, fruit driven and well-balanced. I found quite a lot of barrel influence in evidence, even at the villages levels, with some clumsy efforts made especially in those makers who either picked later or tried too hard to find an expression for their wines that didn’t always match the appellation. Some of the villages wines were excellent, and definitely represent the best value IMO. A big shout goes for Ghislaine Barthod’s Chambolle Musigny villages, easily one of the top 3 wines of the night. Morey St Denis also did well and was not very affected by frost. Clos Vougeot in the grands crus stood out. The up and coming winemaker from this tasting for me was Jerome Castagnier, whose wines were all beautiful and full of life.

I have bought across the Cote de Nuits apart from NSG (no real reason), and have not focused on whites because I just have too much white Burgundy and do feel now that some of the newer world chards from NZ (esp) and cooler climate Aussie whites are so close in quality at a fraction of the price that I just couldn’t bear adding any more.

I only tasted a handful of whites, so I don’t have a lot to say here. Colleagues of mine did taste more and liked the vintage, which is reputed to have produced good quality whites across the spectrum, more akin to the 2014 vintage.

Here are the notes:

DOMAINE DE COMTE ARMAND

Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, 1er cru

Concentrated purple fruit nose, emitting strong dark grape essence. In the mouth, medium bodied, more purple concentrated fruit, grapey, with fantastic balance of fruit, acidity and tannins. Very long finish. Excellent wine, seem to have hit the nail on the head with this wine.

MAISON CAMILLE GIROUD

Santenay, Clos Rousseau 1er cru

Red fruit nose of raspberry, dried roses, and a bit of smoke. Very balanced mouthfeel, giving a real sense of elegance matching the nose. This wine is pure and honest, is what it is and represents excellent value at approx. £38/btl all in. One of my favourite wines of the tasting.

Charmes Chambertin grand cru

Beautiful light red fruit nose, powdery, perfumed with sweet flowers with an underlying concentration of fruit belying some power. A wonderful balance of fruit, tannin and acidity, with a hint of animal savoury flavour. This wine has perfect balance, and its name is apt for its charm. Excellent.

BENJAMIN LEROUX

Chassagne Montrachet, Embazees 1er cru

Very strong ripe fruit nose, with vanilla essence. Very honeyed in the mouth, showing the pear and pineapple fruita but perhaps too much. I think this is overripe for my taste. Not sure how well this will age.

Meursault Genevrieres 1er cru

Very strong vanilla influence on the nose, overpowering. IN the mouth, overpowered by the vanilla essence, leaving an overly sweet cloying flavour. Again, not to my taste and not clear how well this will age.

Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs 1er cru

Darker fruit nose with caramel and vanilla. In the mouth, tart fruit with good concentration and acidity. Very elegant, and nicely balanced. A beautiful wine, very very good.

Pommard Rugiens-Haut 1er cru

A darker Pommard character shines out, slightly animal with purple fruit nose. The palate is lighter initially and then gives way to concentrated fruit, followed by bigger hit of acidity than the Volnay. A drying finish, and then a touch of ox that perhaps gives the sense of over enthusiasm with barrels.

DOMAINE DE LA VOUGERAIE

Vougeot Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot 1er cru (white)

Slightly charred nose, but giving the essence of chardonnay. Sweet tart fruit, wonderful depth and concentration, perfect balance of acidity and fruit, an absolutely stunning wine. Outstanding.

Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles

Slightly ox’d nose, cloves, a little cloying. Good fruit concentration, drying tannins. This wine needs more time.

Clos de Vougeot grand cru

Very smokey nose, slightly animal, dark fruit with some perfume showing but quite closed for the vintage. Silky tannin mouth, wonderful on the palate with a good slug of wood offsetting the clearly ripe tart fruit and the acidity, leaving a very well balanced wine. Finishes with darker fruit. Very Very good.

DOMAINE MICHELE AND PATRICE RION

Chambolle Musigny Les Cras

Very pale in colour compared to most other wines. Gamey with red cranberry juice, strawberry jam and cinnamon – almost not a wine nose but something from my pantry. Strawberry jam flavour, with good acidity against the fruit, but not a lot else. Not very complex. Good

Nuits St Georges Clos des Argillieres 1er cru

A bit of horseradish, vanilla, strawberry jam, with a slightly smokey edge nose. Good tart fruit, nicely balanced strawberry and cherry with some spices and tea. Mid weight on the palate, long finish, and well balanced. Very very good.

JF MUGNIER

Nuits St Georges Clos de la Marechale 1er cru

Strong fruit nose, grape koolaid or juice, and very purple. Tart fruit set against good acidity with very drying tannins. Very well balanced fruit and acidity, leaving this feeling effortless. Long finish. Very very good – this wine is often impossible to taste at this stage, quite sulfuric, and needing more bottle time so quite a good showing for a long sleeper.

DOMAINE SYLVAIN CATHIARD

Vosne Romanee

Typical Vosne nose hits you straight out of the glass, cherry, tea, vanilla, earth, animal. Ripe dark fruit, a bit sherbety with real concentration and power. Chewy tannins balanced by the fruit and acidity. A very lovely wine, very very good.\

Vosne Romanee Aux Malsoncourts 1er cru

More closed than the villages with subtle cherry, roses and tea leaves. A riper fruit palate, sweet cherry with some fat, and strong concentration of sherbet powder on the very long finish. Excellent.

DOMAINE JEAN GRIVOT

Vosne Romanee

Cherry candy nose with a whiff of animal. Concentrated raspberry with a strong taste presence, finishing slightly bitter with mid length – typical Grivot young wine. Very good.

Nuits St Georges, Les Pruliers 1er cru

Darker roaster nose of cassis. Taut palate with very concentrated dark fruit – a driven wine with strong acidity and a long finish. Very very good.

Clos de Vougeot grand cru

Voluptuos nose of fruit and flowers, complex bouquet of flowers and vanilla. Strong cherry fruit with some animal essence, spices, cassis, dark cherry, just bags of fruit here. A strong barrel influence for this young wine, tannins in force but well balanced, with a slightly drying bitter finish. A beautiful sweet long finish screams balance. Wonderful.

DOMAINE GUYON

Vosne Romanee

Cough medicine and sour cherry nose, smells like it’s slightly oxidised. Same in the mouth. Bleh.

DOMAINE GHISLAINE BARTHOD

Chambolle Musigny

Sappy fruit, violets, and raspberry, with purple fruit in the nose. A darker wine than usual. Very concentrated but supple fruit, with an underlying power that finishes super long. Just a beautiful make you want to cry wine. Excellent.

Chambolle Musigny Les Baudes 1er cru

There is an extra dimension of florality on this compared to the villages that is in addition to everything the villages has, including a bit more vanilla. This is such an elegant wine, precise, long – a real wow wine with a slightly hot finish. Wow.

DOMAINE LOUIS BOILLOT & FILS

Gevrey Chambertin

Grape bubblegum nose, essence of grape Koolaid. Taste is similar, with concentrate grape jelly, but much weight in the mid-palate, which doesn’t live up to what the nose tells me I will get. Sweet and tart fruit, very nice balance but is this really from Gevrey?? Tastes more like Volnay to me

Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles

Similar nose but wutg more concentration. More fruit in the mouth, with good acidity balanced against the tannins with a bit more weight and length than the villages. Good but again, not really GC to me.

DOMAINE CASTAGNIER

Charmes Chambertin grand cru

Very ripe raspberry and cherry nose, with flowers and earth. A beautiful nose with hints of tea. Sweet ripe cherry fruit, with strong acidity balancing it out, and tannins just so. A beautifully balanced wine. Excellent.

Clos de Vougeot grand cru

A subdued nose with a bit of horse hair, purple fruit like cassis. Super concentrated ripe fruit, tart acidity. Medium bodied, very precise and long. The tannins are chewy and balance well against the fruit and acidity. A super wine. Excellent

DOMAINE LIGNIER-MICHELOT

Morey St Denis Vieilles Vignes

Purple fruit with some animal, really sexy nose. Concentrated tart fruit, with good acidity and beautiful tannins. A really well balanced wine with a linear fruit taste profile. Very very good.

Morey St Denis Les Faconnieres

Just like the VV but with more animal essence in the nose, just a lovely wine to breathe. Dark syrupy fruit of cherry and raspberry, very concentrated with a bit of fat sweetness and a good finish. Wonderful wine. Excellent

DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS

Morey St Denis

Lifted nose of fruit, flowers and vanilla essence, concentrated grape juice and cinnamon. A beautiful fruit expression of concentrated grape juice like the nose. Strong acidity is well balanced by the tannins. A great wine. Excellent

Clos des Lambrays grand cru

Nose much more closed, with some hints of the MSD. A super charged concentrated wine, perfectly balanced between ripe tart fruit, silky tannins, and acidity, finishing slightly hot. Amazing. Excellent

JEAN LUC & ERIC BURGUET

Gevrey Chambertin Symphonie

Raisined nose characteristic, still a bit sulfury and a bit dirty on the nose. Concentrated drier fruit of prunes and raisins with good acidity and tannins. Was this picked too late?? Ok

Gevrey Chambertin Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes

Nose of dried fruits, cloves, raisins, with some horse hair and earth. Concentrated sweet and tart fruit, with a better palate than nose, showing cloves and spices. Very good balance and long finish. Very very good.

DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL-TRAPPET

Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

Overty oaky nose, over dominates the rest. Clumsy oaky wine with drying tannins that really needs a lot more time in bottle. Not knit. Clumsy.

Chapelle Chambertin grand cru

Charred smokey nose, with cherries and flowers, very pretty. Sweet ripe fruit, vanilla and spices but a bit lightweight in body. Nice concentration of fruit but more pretty than substantial. Drying finish. Very good.

Chambertin grand cru

Charred smokey nose, lots of barrel, with horse/manure, animal, earth and cloves hiding the fruit in the nose. Sweet fat fruit, fresh raspberry and cherry with good acidity enclosing the fruit. Strong tannins with a slightly hot finish,. Good balance and very long. Very very good.

Hope you enjoyed these.