Umberto Cantele third generation of Cantele Wines of Puglia hosted this memorable evening at Fredericks a day before Burns night 2024.
Adam, his father and brother visited Umberto at Cantele winery in Salento a few years ago and have been long planning this dinner.
The whole family is involved in the business. They have 50 hectares of their own vineyards and manage a further 150 hectares. Their primary focus is on local native grapes of the region, including Primitivo, Negroamaro and Susumaniello for the red wines, and Verdeca and Malvasia Bianca for the whites. The winery also produces pure expressions of international varieties such as Chardonnay.
Aperitif
2022 Verdeca, Cantele, Puglia Stone fruit with ice texture and medium acidity
With Starter
2021 Teresa Manara IGT Salento Chardonnay
2021 Teres Manara Vendemmia Tardiva Chardonnay The star of the show tonight
rich textured beautiful oak integration caramel vanilla butter stone fruit
With maim
2021 Amativo, Cantele, Puglia lovely blend of NegroAmaro and Primitivo delicious rich black fruits hints of smoke and choclate
2022 Primitivo Puglia IGP, Cantele
Thanks to the crowd of 31 who braved dry January. Special thanks to Umberto who gave us great insight into his family winery and brought his Italian warmth to a London January.
The weekends impending champions league final reminded us it was exactly a decade on to the day from our last wine trip to Piemonte.
We spent the May weekend of 2012 in Barolo and were escorted through the region by Roger Barlow of Gerard Seel.
This time to Barbaresco, facilitated by our friend Mehul, a serious Italophile and lover of wines of this region.
The plan was to get a blind tasted overview of the 2019 vintage at Barbaresco a Tavola, then to indulge in the food and wine culture of Piemonte. We had arranged a few select winery visits.
Piemonte is renowned for 3 main red varietals, Nebbiolo of course, Barbera and Dolcetto. Their 3 main white grapes are Arneis. Cortese and Cortese.
We concentrated on Nebbiolo wines. They can be difficult to appreciate young due to their high tannins and acidity and the wines need patience.
The Produttori del Barbaresco was founded in 1958. They now have 51 members and more than 100 hectares of Nebbiolo vineyards in Barbaresco. It is conveniently located in the small village of Barbaresco and wines can be tasted by just dropping in. They are well known for producing high quality and more affordable Barbaresco
Lange Nebiolo 2020.
On the nose: Aromatic, herbs, cut strawberry.
In the mouth: Nice balance, dusty tannin, fruit structure, medium in length. Approachable already. 14 euro very nicely made
Barbaresco 2018
On the nose a little volatile, rose, macerated strawberry, pot pourri
In the mouth: good balance, full body, sweet juicy fruit, little hot on end.
Barbaresco 2017.
Herbaceous nose, cinnamon, red tart fruit, cherries.
On the mouth: Rounded fruit, elegant structure, good fruit concentration, slightly puckering youthful tannin, long finish. Very good.
The 2019 although only recently bottled showed as one of the top 6 wines at the Tavola tasting. Confirming the consistent quality of the wines here.
The winery produces 50,000 bottles per annum and is 100% organic, The Ada Nada farmhouse is located in Treiso, near Alba. They have a beautiful Agroturismo with a lovely outdoor swimming pool with panoramic views of the rolling hills.
Cento
Golden green colour, made from 100% Nebbiolo. Grapes are green harvested then the wine is made following a method traditional and the aged for 24 months on lees.
On the nose citrus, lime zest, orange peel some cream, in the mouth sherbet, finishing slightly abruptly. Fresh and fun.
Dilva
This is another 100% Nebbiolo method classic but this time with zero dosage. Made with skin contact and fermented in barrique then and aged for 60 months on lees. The wine is not long enough in barrique to impart a woody character but allows micro oxygenation.
This is a more serious fizz. On the nose: toasted brioche, toffee, flint and smoke. In the mouth stewed spiced apple, nutty, long and persistent, slightly drying from a dusting of pleasant tannin which counteracts the citrus finish.
Neta Sauvignon Blanc 2021.
Grown on north facing slopes.
On the nose a touch of grass, green pepper, concentrated confected pear drops.
In the mouth rich ripe candied citrus, well balanced but finishes a touch warm.
Lange nebiollo Serena 2021
Made in Barbaresco but from youngest vineyard where the vines are 18 yrs old the wine is made to be approachable and for earlier drinking.
Nose: red cherries, raspberries, dried cherries, light herb.
On palate: strawberry chew, chewy tannin, a well made great food wine.
Classic Barbera Pierin 2020
made in large oak 2 year
Nose: Dark cherries, a whiff of polish, touch of sawdust then strawberries, ripe fruit, voilets. In the mouth blackberry as well as juicy red fruit, medium acidity, fuller body, medium length. Tasty! another good quaffing wine.
Barbaresco Valeirano 2019.
The vines here are over 50 years old.
Nose: Mint, bay leaf, celery, cut strawberry, herb, then floral notes. A delicate and complex nose.
In the mouth: medium plus body, tart cherry, savoury meat, liquorice, herbs. Elegant long excellent!
Barbaresco Rombone Elisa 2018. This vineyard was planted in 1947.
Nose: more expressive, soft red fruit, baked strawberry fruit tart, spices, touch of polish and scent of pot purri.
In the mouth: Full bodied, savoury, cooked fruit, sweetness then a ton of tannin, fine grained. The finish is dry but with a line of fruit that persists.
Barbaresco Cichin Reserva 2017.
Spends 3 years in large oak botti and 2 years in bottle before release. From the rombone vineyard planted in 1958.
The wine maker naturally concentrates the wine by letting 20% of the juice run off and leaving the rest to macerate and ferment on the skins.
On the nose: Leather, perfume, pot purri, polish, orange peel, incense very complex.
In the mouth: Rich, spice, leather, orange peel, firm present tannin but drinking. Very long excellent!
A memorable tasting hosted by the passionate Jeff at Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco
The Cisa Asinari estates of the Marchesi di Grésy include four wineries located in the Langhe and Monferrato region.
2020 Marchesi di GrésyLanghe sauvignonblanc
Flinty smoky slightly sulfurous, reduced,. Bottled 1yr, green gage, nuts, briny, 7-8 mth stainless steel on lees Greengage, green pepper, tart lemon, mineral dust coating in mouth. Fairly full bodied, good finish
2016 Marchesi di Grésy langhe sauvignon blanc
Darker colour Lemon curd, sweet top note of peaches, salty, floral Fuller body, hint of peach, yellow plum? Reminds me of white bordeaux, thought a blend with semillon great finish, excellent acidity
2019 Marchesi di Grésychardonnay
Pale Ripe pear, maybe a little peach, great wood influence, vanilla, bit of smoke and toast, stone Tart apple, peach, great acidity, but drying, very elegant
2015 Marchesi di Grésy Chardonnay
Coal smoke And toast, roasted hazelnuts, white flower, Caramel, lemon, mineral, really balanced and elegant, acidity, linear
2019 Marchesi di GrésyDolcetto Monte Aribaldo
Cherry linctus, dark and red, strawberry, stem, slightly burned nose, possible reductive Savory and tannic, tart cherry, slight bitterness, savoury finish, med acidity
2015 Marchesi di Grésy Montecolombo Barbera
Treated like a barbaresco Turmeric and cumin nose, dark cherry, vanilla, toffee, Dark cherry, really drying, super acidity, a little hot, herbaceous, quite tannic in gums
2011 Marchesi di GrésyVirtus Langhe Rosso – Cab Sauv and Barbara 40/60
Green pepper Black currant leaf dark cherry, Blackcurrant, good acidity and tannin, balanced, mid palate missing
2007Marchesi di Grésy Virtus Langhe Rosso – Cab Sauv and Barbara 40/60
Much more developed, great mix of the barbera linctus with blackcurrant leaf Mushroom to start on the nose Great ripe balanced, fantastic wine,long… love it
2004 Marchesi di GrésyVirtus Langhe Rosso – Cab Sauv and Barbara 40/60
Green pepper Black currant mushroom caramel vanilla Another great balanced wine, finishes v very cab, very beautiful
2018 Marchesi di GrésyBarbaresco Martinenga
Mixed vintage Muted nose, slightly floral And herbaceous woody notes, tart cherry Drying, good intensity and length not showing yet but had very good potential based on finish
2017 Marchesi di GrésyBarbaresco Martinenga Gaiun Made from specific plots on the outer edge of the Martinenga cru, bordering Asili
Dark cherry strawberry cream pot pourri, roses Drying, intense dried flower, incense, tart cherry, liquorice, finish forever long, sexy, complete, wine for the long term. 2016 Marchesi di GrésyBarbaresco Martinenga Gaiun
Darker Sandalwood, Rose, macerated strawberry, white truffle, sapid More concentration, fruit intensity, liquorice tobacco, finish goes on forever An epic wine for the long term. Touched something deep inside me, literally brought tears to my eyes
2016 Marchesi di GrésyCamp Gros Martinenga Riserva
12 mths small barrel 18mths large barrel, 3 yrs total 6900 btls made
Dried rose, sandalwood, pot pourris dried cherry orange peel, spice – fascinating nose Drying, tart, regal tannins, stony, tight. Not showing itself, wait another 5-10yrs for this to emerge.
This iconic winery needs little introduction. We were fortunate to be hosted by the Giovanni, Angelo Gaja’s son.
He gave us a great insight into the wines and the challenges ahead. We looked out of the palatial Gaja headquarters to where the River Tanaro should be. Instead we say a dry cracked river bed with no water in sight. The Tanaro had dried up which is a worrying sign of things to come.
We tried a selection of their wines all made to perfection. Mehul requested a bottle of Sori Tildin (one of my desert Island wines) A vintage 2001 was duly decanted. A fitting finale to a memorable weekend in Barbaresco!
The WanderCurtis team were delighted to have been invited to attend our first Barbaresco a Tavola dinner on Friday May 27th 2022. For the unacquainted, this is an annual tradition held by the region’s winemakers to showcase their latest bottled vintage. Held over three successive weekends in different restaurants, wine makers from across the area bring and pour their latest bottled vintage to other wine makers, members of the trade, journalists and others, to give a sense of how the vintage has turned out.
For those who have yet to encounter the Barbaresco region, well, the best thing to say is that what is commonly referred to as one region is comprised of the three regions of Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso, that collectively work under the single communal name of Barbaresco DOCG. While the star of the show must be made from 100% Nebbiolo, aged for a minimum of 12 months in oak with a further 9 months of bottle ageing, the region is also widely planted to Barbera, Dolcetto, Arneis and many other international varietals that can be bottled and sold under the Langhe DOC label. This affords the local winemakers an opportunity to honour more ancient traditions of blends, provides an outlet for the wines made from young vines and gives opportunities to experiment with more international varietals such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot.
We attended the third of the three Tavola dinners, held at the restaurant Casa Nicolini in Tre Stelle. Set on one of many sensational ridges that run across the top of the vineyards, we were greeted with breath-taking views of key Barbaresco vineyards such as Asili, Rabaja, Rio Sordo and Martinenga. The potent aromas of ripe jasmine, although enticing, made it difficult find some of the finer edges of the aromas in these very young wines. We were the guests of Jeff Chilcott, Kiwi cellar master of Marchesi di Gresy, who we visited on Sunday for an amazing tasting (more on this later).
The format of the dinner is simple: 20 wines are set up on a central table, labelled 1-19, and you are invited to taste and score your way through the wines. Later in the evening, the wines are revealed, and you find out that most of people pouring the wines are the wine makers themselves. Over the course of the evening, we were served a typical and delicious multi-course regional meal. As the light faded, our palates tingling from the young vintage’s tannins and acidity, we left feeling full, fortunate to have taken part and maybe just a little tipsy.
The wines uncovered
Impression of the vintage
The 2019 vintage has been described by many as pure, energetic, and authentic with good fruit expression, fine abundant tannins and elevated levels of acidity – all typical characteristics of strong vintages. Our tasting left an impression of a vintage of balance, elegance and with good bones for the long haul. We would caveat this to say that with many having been bottled within a few weeks of the dinner, there was a high degree of wood on show, with many wines showing baking spice characteristics of cinnamon, and nutmeg, with a muted fruit expression. There were a range of wine making styles on show, with many made in the traditional neutral oaked manner and some showing the signs of flashy new barriques. We scored all the wines fully blind on a scale of 1-20, and frequently returned to wines that, on discussion, proved either hard to understand or sparked an interest.
I have put our scores together in a table by wine, with our average, maximum, minimum and standard deviation scores listed (for those who like a bit of statistical wine geekiness).
Casa Nicolini Barbaresco
Tasting note comments
On balance, you will see that our average across all wines from the evening scores a 16.2 out of 20, which one could normally interpret as representing an average to good vintage. In context, however, given the extraordinarily young, freshly bottled wines, and examining the structural characteristics (acidity and tannin) and winemaking styles on show, I believe these wines will be showing beautifully in the medium term, and will reward the patient given their exquisite balance and structure.
In terms of individual wines, there was much debate on which of these was our favourite on the night. Initially, we were besotted with number 18 (Pelissero), a producer that clearly likes the full barrique approach, creating a ravishing, fuller bodied version of Barbaresco. On reflection and discussion, we marked it down on the basis that vanilla is not something that we feel belongs so overtly in Barbaresco of any age.
While our collective scores of number 12, the Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga, was rather low, our tasting on Sunday showed just how wonderful their wines are with a bit more age, and we therefore conclude that this wine was being a little shy. We would say the same for number 3 from Ada Nada, which split opinions, and whom we visited the next afternoon and had a wonderful tasting.
Our clear favourite, number 2 from Silvia Rivella, shone out as both an approachable yet structured newer style barrique-aged wine with potential to age into something truly beautiful. Other strong showings included the Castello di Neive (6), the ever-dependable Produttori del Barbaresco (10) and the Francone (8) which all stood out.
Tedeschi is a family-owned and run winery producing renowned classic Veronese wines, including Valpolicella, Amarone, Ripasso and Soave.
The Tedeschi family has been making wine in the Italian Valpolicella Classico wine region since the Seventeenth Century. They produce four types of Amarone and five Valpolicellas
The Tedeschi estate is comprised of four main vineyards : Fabriseria, Monte Olmi, Tenuta Maternigo and Lucchine.
Over a three course matched dinner we tasted 6 of their wines.
This was a great chance to try Amarone della Valpolicella. This is an intensely flavoured red wine made from grapes which have been dried on racks to intensify flavour. It is made in the Veneto region of north-eastern Italy, and is one of Italy’s most prestigious red wines.
We held a small auction of a few select wines from our wine cellars and extremely generous wines fro Tedeschi and raised nearly £2,000 for charities supporting Ukraine.
Valpolicella, Veneto, North East Italy October 2019
Being a fan of full bodied, fruit driven and bold wines, I have always wanted to visit the Valpolicella region of Italy, to witness the appassimento process. This involves drying of the grapes on wooden racks (fruttaio) for the production of Amarone. This area is easily accessible. Only 15 minutes drive from Verona airport. It is also only a short distance East of Lake Garda. Bardolino and Soave are nearby leading to a cornucopia of wine styles in this area. A range of wines are produced in Valpolicella, from the light, fresh, easy drinking red fruity Valpolicella through to the monolithic rich Amarone. Somewhere in between are the wines of Valpolicella Classico and Ripasso wines which are refermented on the lees of grapes used in Amarone production. Reccioto is the sweet version of Amarone.More recently Valpolicella Superiore has emerged. This is made from grapes harvested later(sovramaturazione) or partially dried to produce a wine of greater colour body and alcohol. Valpolicella contains two sun-zones : Classico and Valpantena.
We chose to stay in the heart of the hilly vineyards in Sant Ambrogio di Valpolicella. Corte Formigar in Graganago is an 18th century house, tastefully restored and run by the incredible Jessica who could not be more helpful. I highly recommend basing yourself here in the heart of the region. Access to their selection of bikes including electric allow you to gain altitude via the many roads through the vineyards and appreciate the magnificent views and explore the area.
The first night we walked to the local Trattoria dai Fasolini to sample some typical cuisine of the area. Horse is typical of the Veneto region but perhaps not appreciated by British palates. However the home made tagliatelle with black truffle and parmesan hit the spot. This matched well with Recchia Le Muraie Valpolicella Classico 2015 made using the ripasso process with Recciotto lees.
Cantina di Negrar, October 12th
Cantina di Negrar is a well known cooperative winery on the outskirts of Negrar. They have 230 members providing grapes from the Valpolicella region and produce 8 million bottles.This is the birthplace of Amarone. In 1936, by accident a reccioto wine was left to ferment to dryness. The president at the time Gaetano dall’ora quite enjoyed it, called it the bitter one and named it Amarone (Amaro – bitter in Italian)It was interesting to witness the arrival of a tractor full of grapes being tested for sugar levels and quality by a rather crude machine. A large cylinder of metal with an internal drill was inserted into the grapes, it macerates a sample of them and analyses the content for sugar levels. If not of sufficient levels the grapes will be rejected.
We had our wine tasting with Sara Albertini who is hugely knowledgeable, having just spent a year in Bordeaux and mid her masters in wine business
Domini Veneti la Casseta Ripasso Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2016 30 th Anniversary
14 months oak casks Recciotto skins, from grapes grown on Clay soil, Unfortunately this was somewhat reduced sulphurous smoky
Domini Veneti 2016 Valpolicella Superiore Verjago 15.5% 40 days of appassimento
Rich blueberry and violet Soft but silky tannins coffee chocolate cocoa dark cherry bit of raisin smells sweet ripe meaty savoury spicy
Domini Veneti Amarone 2015
15.5%, Best vintage for many years Described by our host… as like dark chocolate cherry 🍒 liquors. garnet intense nose legs ++ coffee cocoa dust powder raisins spice black pepper
Domini Veneti Recioto 2016
Sweet cherry not complex recioto
We had dinner in St Giorgio di Valpolicella high up in the hills overlooking lake Garda atTrattoria Dalla Rosa Alda.
This is a cosy family run restaurant with the mother, father, uncle and 2 sons all working together. The wine choice was from Zyme, the owner is married to the daughter of the famous Giuseppe Quintarelli.
Corte Fornaledo Winery Azienda Agricola Borghetti di Giacomo e Francesco – Sunday October 13th
The land here is documented in books dating back to 908 AD. The current family have been in residence from 1800 and own 5 hectares in Marano di Valpolicella 450m above sea level, making only 15,000 bottles most of which is sold to private buyers.
14.5% fresh red cherry richer good acidity length all aged in 500l tonneaux
Corte Fornaledo , Vitae IGT Rosso Verona 2013
2 months aged grapes, aged in Chilean oak barrels IGT all Volcanic soils
mineral savoury spicy oxidation
Corte Fornaledo , Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2015
3 months drying 3. 5 yrs barrels and then 1 year bottles
Raisins fig full sweet chocolate alcohol!
Corte Fornaledo Amarone Della Valpolicella Riserva 2009
8 years in barrels one in bottle oak vanilla chocolate coffee 1000 L Slavonian oak
Corte Fornaledo, Recioto della Valpolicella 2015
made first by Romans 2000 years ago
Sweet cherry chew 10 g/l
Val Polis Cellae wine and food and art festival – Sunday Oct 13th
Azienda Agricola Novaia Cantina Biologica This organic estate high up in the Marano valley was our first stop on the Val Polis Cellae tour. This day long, art, wine and gastronomy festival enables entry to 15 wineries in the area.
Then on to Le Marognole ( names after local stone walls) 6 hectares boutique winery
The harvest had just ended and we were greeted to the smell of fermenting must making the roses Their Amarone 2015 was one of my favourites of the tour tasting of cedar, prunes dates and dried fruits with a power and finesse
Dinner in the evening lived up to previous Trips to Italy –
Osteria Numero Uno is a beautiful authentic Osteria in the village of Fumane
Antipasti
insalata di gallina in saor
Insalata di rape Rossi, mêle, Ruccola gorgonzola anacardi
Primi
Fettuccine al ragu d’anatra
Tortellini radicchio rosso, burro al miele e scamorza affumigata
Secondi
Guancia di Manzo All Amarone con polenta
Scottata di tonno du cavalo nero
Dessert
Torta die mêle e fichi secci
All washed down with recioto from the local winery and a harsh cleanse of Grappa. This delicious feast was a fitting end to our trip to the Valpolicella area. Italy cannot be beaten for wine and gastronomy.Before even departing Verona, my brother and father already booked our trip to Sicily next year!
Our wine style of choice was the Ripasso’s. The basic Valpolicella was too light and simple for our taste, Amarone at the other end of the spectrum is often too big powerful and alcoholic. The Ripasso is a welcome half way house adding a much-needed richness but not to the level of Amarone. The pricing of Ripasso wines also adds to their attraction.
Not many bottles have me reaching for Jancis’s tome, Wine Grapes.
On a recent holiday to Sardinia the villa manager very kindly left us a bottle from a friends winery. I was deep in cynicism when I opened this local red from Cantina di Mogoro.
The grape, Bovale Grande. as I discovered is Mazuelo (Carignan) which probably arrived in Sardinia during the period of Aragonese domination from approximately 1400 to 1700.
It’s a very vigorous vine with large leaves and compact clusters of small berries, rich in colour.
On tasting, I was pleased to find it full of ripe red fruits, cherries and raspberries, Mediterranean herbs and a savouriness with balanced acidity and freshness, soft tannins and good length.
Lovely with the sun setting over the Mediterranean with local chicken gently sizzling on the barbeque.
I promptly ordered a case which Alessandro delivered, each bottle was as good as the last.
I would recommend indulging in Sardinian wines. Their Vermentino’s, Cannonau’s (Grenache) and other Carignan’s are well worth discovering.
Bolgheri DOC lies within the Maremma, once a sizzling mosquito infested area of swamp lying between low hills and the sea, it features as part of the inferno in Dante’s Divine Comedy. Thankfully the marsh land has long since been drained and the area is now a welcoming patchwork of farmland, vineyards & olive groves accentuated here & there by picturesque rows of cypress trees.
Bolgheri wine region runs north south bounded by hills to the east and a line parallel to the coast (largely defined by the motorway) to the west. There are four small towns in the region. To the north-east is the village of Bolgheri itself at the foot of the wooded hills. To the north west is Marina di Bibbona a coastal resort & further down the coast, is Marina di Castagneto Carducci. Finally, the ancient hill town of Castagneto Carducci itself makes up the quartet.
Accommodation:
Accommodation is available in all four of these towns but if you want to be in the heart of the wine action as we did there are a number of wineries that offer accommodation and a few agritourismo too. We stayed at: Relais Felciaino which has three or four family /twin rooms opening onto the garden and does a nice al fresco breakfast under a canopy with views of the Tenuta San Guido’s castle on the hill.
Tenuta Ornellaia & Chiappini, are next door, Le Machiolle is opposite & Tenuta Guado a short way down the road & the fabulous restaurant Osteria Magna is also within walking distance.
Other options include apartments in the vineyards of Azienda Agricola Giovanni Chiappini, & several other agritourismo in the area.
Eating out:
If you like meat, then look no further than Osteria Magona. Chef Omar Barsacchi serves a selection of beef by Dario Cecchini , Panzano’s famous butcher. On the T bone or a cheek, the meet is amazing.
The wine list is comprehensive and, although most of it will require re-mortgaging, there are actually some delicious gems such as Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso 2015 and, one of the waiter’s recommendations, Sondraia Bolgheri Superiore 2013 by Poggio al Tesoro.
The find of the trip though was Enoteca Tognoni in the village of Bolgheri itself. Imagine crossing your favourite wine merchant with a brilliant trattoria and you get Enoteca Tognoni. Walls to the left and right are lined with shelves of Tuscan wines to browse and between customers sit at long tables. Choose your bottle, scan the menu and settle in.
The wines are priced very fairly and you pay the same when you sit down for lunch as you would to take out. Fancy tasting through some of the local icons with your meal then check out the enomatic wine machines on the bar at the back serving both tasting portions and drinking measures.
For sea food we visited Restaurant La Pineta right on the beach where chef Luciano Zazzeri serves Michelin-starred seafood. The wine list is a ridiculous tome that is so big an heavy it comes to you on its own side table but we did find some bottles of Grattamacco Bolgheri Vermentino 2015 which were vibrant and delicious and a couple of bottles of Ca Marcanda Magari. The food was very good but not all the dishes were outstanding & we found the service a little un-attentive.
The resorts on the coast feel quite separate to the wine country but are so close that an evening dip looking out towards Corsica can easily be worked into your program.
Bike hire:
Travel:
Lots of flights to Pisa which is less than an hour’s drive away.
What better start to the day than the Gaja wineryCa’ Marcanda( house of endless negotiations !) Built in 1998 this impressive winery is 9500m2 with three levels underground perfectly blending in with the local landscape. They surveyed the land and chose this as the sandy colour of the land matched Ornellaia and Sassicaia. Gardens and olive groves on top of winery allow great views of the sea and Corsica on a clear day.Gaja’s other properties include the magnificent Pieve Santa Restituta in Montalcino.Production is 450000 bottles, first vintage 2000.All Gaja is organic, red worms from California form natural compost using selected manure from selected cows.
Promis 2015 55 merlot 35 Syrah 10 Sangiovese Promis and Magari are sourced from vineyards lying in the terre brune, where the mineral content including lime and iron makes for wines with more pronounced tannic structure and character.
Black cherry chocolate vanilla nice tannic balance cedar
Magari 50 Merlot 25!cab sav 25 cf
Cranberry blue berry fruit forward great balance acidity tannins soft silky integrated beautifully pure Linear A baby opens up savoury herbs thyme opens up in glass over 10. Mins+++ then smokey toasty notes
Çamarcanda 2013 Merlot 50 CS 40 cf 10 ,the winery’s flagship wine, from vineyards in the terre bianche with their high composition of calcareous clay, ideal for wines intended for long-term aging.Wow the nose is amazing packs a punch. Concentration +++ black currant cassis blueberry red currant cherry. Toasty smokey so. Good keep smelling balance tannins integrated, Elegant silky tannins. Length amazing ++
Next stop back on the bikes towards Bolgheri. We got totally lost, then found the place which got it all started and birthplace of Sassicaia
The star on label is from family crest, aia means ‘place of something. Sassicaia means place of many stones, 3000 hectare estate 100 hectares of vineyard Higher area later harvest, sand near pines, lots different soils – clay sands stones altitude sea to 400 m lots of forest and even a place to breed racehorses. Interesting history the first vineyard planted in 1944 when the Piemontese Marquis Della Inchetta arrived. He was familiar with the excellent wines of Bordeaux and tried 1 ha Cabernet Sauvignon at top of the Hill. Now most plantings are lower altitude due to sea breeze and the sea acting as a mirror for light. Castillo on top of Hill medieval castle first cellar sassicaia. The first vintage was in 1968 and became the only Property in Italy with its own DOC. Iron rich area of red soils where the Etruscans first settled.
Wines tasted at Tenuta San Guido
Le Difese 2015 70cs 30 sangiovese 300000 bottles
Smokiness,Soft light red fruits savoury slight strawberry, Sangiovese
Sassicaia 2014 Perfume floral red fruits,Vanilla oaky notes mod tannins a bit lacking on the finish
Guidoalberto 2015 Merlot,Black currant leaf lovely acid balance and tannins
After a strenuous climb up the hill and many expletives later we arrived at Grattamacco 120m above sea level allowing magnificent views of the regionOwned now by Bertollerri it was the second winery in the area after sassicaia. Only 12 employees and organic since 1997 made easier with sea breeze and altitude and good drainage.No irrigation required although this June was very with no rain and it was very hot making for a difficult vintage.Justerini & Brook importer to the UK
Wines Tasted
Bolgheri Rosso 2016 CS based some new oak,Spicy ,violet hints cocoa dark cherries nutmegGood acidity and Med Fine tannins crunchy
Grattamacco 2014 Cedar minty eucalyptus,Higher level tannins cocoa vanilla oak toasty smoke sour cherry good length and structure cherry pie dried herbs
We recommend a trip to this area. It is a little quiet and off the beaten track compared to inland nearer Siena and Florence, but this is Italy. In even the smallest places, there’s an immaculate town square, medieval church, and of course a brilliant local restaurant and wine flowing from the local wineries.
This beautiful region surrounded by mountains in the heart of Italy is the perfect place to indulge .
For oenophiles, gastronomes and lovers of life there are few places better .
An easy direct Ryan Air flight from London delivers you to Perugia ,
a majestic medieval hilltop City with spectacular sweeping views of Umbria.
Luckily for me my great friend and trained Chef Simon
is spending a year on sabbatical and living in the heart of the old town.
He introduced me to the culinary delights of the region . We foraged along the banks of the Lago Trasimeno collecting the seasonal wild asparagus and with the local truffle Bianchetto made a Wonderful frittata .
Other highlights were his lamb and Rosemary, Bistecca alla fiorentina and Umbrian sausages all grilled on the open fire
and the best roast potatoes you could wishes for .
Highly recommended is restaurant Coccorone in the timeless hilltop medieval town of Montefalco .
Their paparadelle Al Sagrantino is unforgettable
followed by the Bistecca alla fiorentina served with a choice of eight types of salt !
Kitted out with the finest Bianchi hybrid bikes from Testi we set of for the hills and after a relatively flat 30 km arrived at the Arnaldo Caprai winery , world famous for putting Sagrantino wines on the modern map with innovative and exciting techniques and passion culminating in its very own DOCG Montefalco Di Sagrantino
We entered the stylish modern tasting room .
They work with university in Perugia to find best methods of viticulture, a tour of the
vineyards showed single and double cordon Guyot and other pruning mainly on clay soil .
The Sangiovese is matured in old Slavonian barrels , new and used French oak for Sagrantino
Wines tasted with Marco Caprai
Grecante grechetto 2015
peach, floral, hawthorn med acid med length a good starter .
Montefalco Rossi this is the bulk of production an Umbrian take on Chianti 70 sangiovese 15 sagrantino fresh red cherry, herbs med + tannins acid med length
Montefalco Rosso reserva tannin high and herbal liquorice garnet 2010
Collepiano 2010 100% sagrantino new oak ,Tannin herbal sl vegetal developing nicely .
Montefalco Sagrantino 25 2011 representing their finest selection .
2011 lovely , new oak ,vanilla chocolate coffee with spice herbs .A lovely structure balance high tannin but well integrated. Well made with lots of life in the bottle .
Montefalco Sagrantino Passito.
The classic original style of Sagrantino , dried grapes creating a wonderfully rich long desert wine full of aromas of figs prunes dates raisins , a fitting finale to any dinner .
After a short climb to Montefalco and lunch we dropped South West towards the unfortunately named Bastardo via
Cantina Novelli
Wines tasted Trebbiano spoletino In a classically Italian confusing way this is no relation to the Trebbiano grape !
aromatic floral gold oily texture aged on lees really a bargain for the price
Sangiovese had hints of red cherry ,the Rosso more Earthy with red fruits Sagrantino 2012 more complex with liquorice herbal high tannin long structure good long herbaceous nature sweetness .
The highlight of which we took a magnum was their 2007 Sagrantino which shows how well this can do with a few years of ageing to soften its high tannins.
We cycled back with the sun setting through the most glorious scenery .
I’m already dreaming of my next Umbrian Adventure !
Just before our memorable Col D’Orcia wine dinner at Fredericks Count Francesco Marone Cinzano told us of the estates long history, his love of Sangiovese and extended an invitation to the winery to all our followers.
The storey of Col D’Orcia
The Count talks about what makes Sangiovese so special in Brunello di Montalcino.
Thoughts on the magnificent 2010 vintage and an invitation.
If you like meat, then look no further than Osteria Magona. Chef Omar Barsacchi serves a selection of beef by Dario Cecchini , Panzano’s famous butcher. On the T bone or a cheek, the meet is amazing.
The find of the trip though was Enoteca Tognoni in the village of Bolgheri itself. Imagine crossing your favourite wine merchant with a brilliant trattoria and you get Enoteca Tognoni. Walls to the left and right are lined with shelves of Tuscan wines to browse and between customers sit at long tables. Choose your bottle, scan the menu and settle in.
The wines are priced very fairly and you pay the same when you sit down for lunch as you would to take out. Fancy tasting through some of the local icons with your meal then check out the enomatic wine machines on the bar at the back serving both tasting portions and drinking measures.
Other highlights were his lamb and Rosemary, Bistecca alla fiorentina and Umbrian sausages all grilled on the open fire
Kitted out with the finest Bianchi hybrid 
Grecante grechetto 2015
WanderCurtis Wine 