Tasted from numbered magnum at Fells’ annual portfolio tasting. Fells always open a selection of mature examples of the fine wines on their list which is a fantastic way of experiencing how well they develop with bottle age.

Malmsey signifies that this fortified wine was made with at least 85% Malvasia grapes (also used in white Port) and also means that this will be sweet and rich in style.

Bottled two years ago from the 1995 vintage the wine has spent 28 years maturing in large old oak barrels.  Some head space is left in the barrels to allow oxidation and the wine is subject to the seasonal range of temperatures within the storage loft over the years.

This ‘Canteiro’ method of maturation was originally developed to mimic the ‘beneficial’ effect on the wine that transporting it, in wooden barrels in the warm hold of a sailing ship, was found to have back in the 18^th C.

The wine is pale and the colour of burnt sugar. Appropriately aromas of caramel and demerara sugar jump right out of the glass, but there are layers upon layers here of dried orange peel and figs, blackened banana, walnuts, honey, and a savoury note of beef stock and olive brine. It is a super complex wine.

The high acidity cuts through the sweetness and viscous texture and although coming in at 20% ABV the alcohol is nicely integrated and there are no harsh notes at all. The finish is bright and uplifting with a lovely citrus and nutty lingering note. Amazing!