A recent ‘Discovering Collio’ masterclass led by Peter McCombie MW focused on the distinctive white wines of the region.

First a quick summary of the Collio region. Located in the northeastern part of Friuli Venezia-Giulia, it runs along the border with Slovenia. Collio DOC lies within the province of Gorizia, forming part of the broader Friuli DOC.

The region’s location between the Julian Alps to the north and the Adriatic Sea to the south creates a mild, temperate climate. Cool mountain breezes moderate the warmer maritime influence from the Adriatic and the region’s rolling hills provide vineyard with altitudes typically ranging from 100 to 300m above sea level. These factors combine to extended the growing season and promote grapes with greater flavour and concentration.

A key feature of Collio’s terroir is its signature soil type, known locally as ‘Ponca’. Ponca is a combination of marl and limestone formed from ancient seabed deposits. It has good water retention while still providing sufficient drainage.

Grape Varieties

The three grape varieties that are probably most distinctive are  Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Grigio and Friulano.  These featured in the tasting along with Sauvignon Blanc and various blends under a Bianco label.

• Ribolla Gialla (ree-BOLL-ah JAH-lah): A native variety of Friuli, Ribolla Gialla produces wines with high acidity and delicate aromatics. Typical flavours include citrus, green apple, and white flowers, with a distinctive mineral backbone. Peter talked about a ‘sapid’ quality that a lot of the wines have meaning a savoury, saline, wet stone quality that gives lift to the wines. When made in a modern style, the wines are light and crisp. In skin-contact or orange wine styles, Ribolla Gialla develops more texture, with notes of dried fruit and spice.
• Pinot Grigio: In Collio, Pinot Grigio offers greater complexity than its mass-produced counterparts. The wines here often have a light pink tinge to them. They are typically medium-bodied, with aromas of pear, white peach, and floral notes, supported by bright acidity and a herby, wet stone finish. Some producers experiment with brief skin contact, resulting in copper-hued wines with additional texture and subtle tannic grip.
• Friulano: Formerly known as Tocai Friulano, this grape is a flagship of the region. It yields wines with medium body, moderate acidity, and a distinct almond-like bitterness on the finish. Flavour notes often include yellow apple, pear, and subtle herbs.  Peter pointed out the grassy notes often evident. The characteristic salinity makes it highly food-friendly.

Wine making Approaches

Producers in Collio typically follow two primary winemaking approaches: modern protective winemaking and traditional skin-contact (orange wine) production.

Modern Protective Winemaking: This technique emphasises the preservation of freshness and purity and Friuli led the transition to single varietal wines made in this way in Italy.   Grapes are harvested early in the morning to retain acidity and are quickly pressed to minimize oxygen exposure. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, preventing oxidation and preserving the grape’s primary fruit aromas. These wines tend to be crisp, vibrant, and fruit-forward, with a clear expression of variety and terroir.

Orange Wine (Skin-Contact): Inspired by ancient techniques, this approach involves prolonged maceration on the grape skins, even for white varieties. The resulting wines are amber-hued, with enhanced tannic structure and complex flavours. Often fermented and aged in large wooden casks, amphorae, or concrete tanks, these wines develop oxidative and savoury characteristics, displaying notes of dried fruit, honey, and spice, along with firm texture and a long finish.

However the wines tasted actually displayed quite a few wine makers using short periods of maceration, extended lees aging, maturation in both old and new wood so there is definitely a spectrum of wine making practices that spans between the two.