WanderCurtis Wine

Wine tastings, corporate events, reviews and recommendations


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New Zealand Wine Tour February 2020, Part 4, Waiheke Island

Back in 1995 I tried one of the early 1990 vintages of Goldwater Estates Cabernet blends. It was clear then that Waiheke Island had great potential as a wine producing region.
A quarter of a century later wine is a thriving industry with around 30 boutique wineries bringing many tourists over from the mainland for tastings, dinners and weddings.
The hilly terrain, with a warm maritime climate and generally poor well drained soils provide many perfect sites for viticulture. It is possibly slightly warmer then the mainland with less rainfall as there is some sheltering from the Auckland isthmus.
Cabernet Merlot blends are still shining however there is some excellent Syrah.
I was fortunate to have arranged a house swap for a week and based myself in the lovely beach area of Sandy Bay, Enclosure Bay and Palm Beach.
With so many excellent wines to try options the most difficult decision was where to start tasting.
Stonyridge was a must, being one of the earliest pioneers and producer of one of the world’s top Bordeaux blends.

Stonyridge Estate

Stephen White Founder and owner of Stonyridge Vineyard

Stephen White, founder of Stonyridge is quite a character. He was sporting a T shirt with Mick Jagger and Bob Marley and appeared to be in very chill mood. He was preparing his speech for his son’s wedding the following day but still made time to come and meet me. I asked him what he was going to crack open on the big day, ‘A 3 litre bottle of one of our earlier vintages of Larose, and it’ll be staying on my table!’

He is into yoga and has previously sailed around the world. His life experience and passion has led to   some great Mantras displayed on the walls of the property, such as ‘We are very serious about what we do….but what we do is not very serious’

‘The time to be happy is NOW, the place to be happy is HERE, the way to be happy is to make someone else HAPPY’

Stonyridge is the second vineyard on Waiheke, starting in 1982 after Goldwater Estate (now Goldies) They are renowned for their Larose a Bordeaux blend which is only sold en primeur through members. It is a sheltered site protected from winds by Stonyridge. Stephen had great vision to buy the land for a tiny fraction of today’s price, and identify ideal sites for Bordeaux blends.

I tasted their 1 barrel production of Chardonnay 2018 which was oak influenced. I was only the 10th person to try the 2019 which had more elegance, stone fruit and subtle oak. The Larose 2018 was fruity, appealing and had soft tannins. I was then ushered into the wine cellar which was full of purple hydrangeas ready for the wedding day to try a barrel sample of the 2019. This was big, brooding, intense with excellent structure and length and was clearly a magnificent vintage.

Stephen said he’d like to keep 50 cases of the 300 to himself for this one!

I was so impressed that I joined the VIP club and ordered a case en primeur. Roll on November when it will arrive in the UK and I’ll have to try and keep my hands off it for a decade or so!

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New Zealand Wine Tour January 2020, Part 3, Hawkes Bay, Gimblett Gravels

 

Vidal wines

I was looking forward to seeing Hugh Crichton again. We had done a dinner together in London a few years ago and his wines really impressed. He trained as a winemaker at Plumpton College, then gained experience in St Emilion, Central Otago, Gisborne and Italy and has been Vidal’s winemaker since 2006. They are renowned for their powerful Legacy Chardonnay. Vidal wines are some of the oldest in New Zealand, started by Spaniard Anthony Joseph Vidal who bought an acre of land in 1905.  They were bought by Villa Maria in 1976. Vidal’s winemaking facility has just been moved to the Te Awa Estate in Gimblett Gravels, bringing new challenges however Hugh also sees advantages of having several winemakers under the same roof.

The wines are  tiered from  Estate, Reserve, Soler to Legacy

 

Wines tasted-

Vidal Sauvignon Blanc 2019

From fruit in Awatere Valley more grassy herbaceous cool than warmer Wairau Valley fruit which can give  more tropical flavours Gently pressed and cool fermented lees ageing, Lovely texture, passion fruit, acidity,  classic Marlborough style

Vidal Estate Chardonnay 2018

Citrus stone fruit and vibrant acid

Vidal réserve Chardonnay 2018

From premium Hawkes bay sites, Keltern, Kokako and Lyons. Flinty smoky buttery partial Malo, partial wild yeast lees, aged lovely soft texture.

Vidal Soler Chardonnay 2018

Fruit from Ohiti valley low crop 10 months on lees with regular stirring, reduced nose, Full bodied Chardonnay, oak toast brioche smoke minerality butter 100% wild yeast great length full body + lovely Chardonnay

Vidal Reserve Syrah 2018

Gimblett Gravels 800 hectares Omaha And Twyford alluvial gravel with silt and sand free draining low vigour low yields natural and green harvesting keeps warmth in the night. Floral red fruit nose loganberry perfumed (2% Viognier co ferment)

Vidal legacy Syrah 2014 from decanter

Black pepper, blackberry spice, perfume soft dry tannins, fresh natural acid good balance delicious wine

 

 


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New Zealand Wine Tour January 2020, Part 3, Hawke’s Bay, Esk Valley

Gordon Russell winemaker at Esk Valley for 25 years

We were hosted by the winemaker of over 25 years Gordon Russell. Esk Valley like Vidal are under the umbrella of Sir George Fistonich’s Villa Maria brand. They have recently moved their wine production  to Te Awa in Gimblett gravels. Esk valley vineyards are some of original plantings 10 km North of Napier and amongst the first to plant Verdelho and Malbec and Merlot. They maintain Gordons philosophy, a specific concrete vat was made for the new winery at Te Awa.

Wines tasted

Esk Valley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Marlbourough fruit, sites from 69% Wairau Valley, mix of gravel and clay warmer than Awatere ValleyPlenty of texture here from lees ageing and richness is obvious, Aromatic gooseberry fresh wine good balance and length

Esk Valley Verdelho 2018 ( only 7 hectares nationwide)

Planted in 1998 and 2002 first Verdelho vines in New Zealands history, 1 hectare in Gimblett gravels low cropped, on stony soils,oak barrel fermented, wild yeast lees stirring, Citrus slight, orange full bodied  fresh acidity.

Esk Valley Pinot Gris 2019

Slight rose tint, tank and old barrels ferment lees ageing and stirring, Pear citrus lovely texture and finish

Esk Valley Chardonnay 2018

Tropical fruit subtle oak butter vanilla 27% Malolactic 75% barrel fermented, minimal intervention

Esk Valley winemakers réserve 2016

lovely smooth fresh ripe tannins blackberry plum, Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Malbec one of First New Zealand Merlot producers, oak aged 17 months 40% new

 

Esk Valley the terraces Malbec Merlot Cabernet 2016

Co-fermented together 40/33/27 one hectare site above Esk Valley winery originally planted in 1940.

Concrete vat ferment hand plunging 50% new oak 17 months unfined, unfiltered, Velvety tannins fragrant black fruit

Interestingly for a New Zealand wine this is sold en primeur.

Esk Valley wines appear to be excellent value for money especially the entry level range. They reflect  Gordon’s   wine making talent and experience.

 


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New Zealand Wine Tour, Hawke’s Bay, January 2020

The Hawke’s Bay is perfectly placed as New Zealand’s second largest wine region.  Known for being one of the hottest and driest regions of New Zealand, it is the fruit basket bay on the East coast of the North island – producing tonnes of delicious fruit, especially apples for international export on a small flat coastal plan and surrounding hill terraces.

The region might not yet be as world renowned as its NZ Southern wine neighbours and their international successes (Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough, Pinot Noir in Central Otago), but it is New Zealand’s oldest wine region and steeped a rich wine growing history from the late 1800s.  Each of the vineyards we visited had current links to early New Zealand wine pioneers (Marist religious brothers, Anthony Vidal (1905), Tom Macdonald) and late 19th  century established plantings (Esk valley terraces, Te Mata estate).  After a period of settling and experimentation, the region has now focused on what it grows and produces well – Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blends.

There are now over 200 vineyards planted over  about 5,000 hectares mainly on the Heretuanga plains which includes the famed Gimblett gravels and Bridge pa triangle which are essentially terraces left behind by Ngaruroro River. The Gimblett gravels pure gravel beds arise from the changed course of the river in 1867. The ground is ideal for top quality viticulture, good drainage and the vine roots have to struggle through the gravels for nutrients.

 

 

 

Mission estate

Mission Estate is steeped in history being New Zealand’s oldest winery dating back to 1851, the first commercial sales began in 1870.

It was set up by Missionaries, Marist priests left who France in1836 landing in 1838. It is still owned by the order of St Mary Church. Their current winemaker is Paul Mooney, the first non priest to have this role. Fruit is acquired from lots growers in Hawke’s Bay including Marlborough and Central Otago.

Categories of wines go from Estate, entry level volume: Vineyard selection cellar door only, Reserve wines low crop fruit thinning, more concentrated wine more in barrel more new oak. Jewelstone top wine only in most exceptional parcels in great years

My friend Aaron remembers when he was brought here on a school residential in 1987. They offered him the opportunity to train to be a priest which he politely declined.

 

Wine tasting hosted by Phillip Van Der Walt

Mission Estate fête Hawkes Bay

Pinot Gris 94% Chardonnay 6% charmat method pear nutty almond

Mission Estate Old vine 40 years semilon small block

Likes heat too cool generally in nz Hawkes bay warm enough to produce tropical pineapple characters

Citrus moderate acid, I didn’t find classic semillon characteristics

Mission Estate Jewelstone Rose  2019

First ever jewelstone Rose 2019 only 3 barrels made Gimblett Gravels 80 Merlot 20 can sav plenty fresh red fruit, really good rose

Mission Estate Jewelstone Pinot noir 2018

Red cherry straight fire nice balance from Central Otago

Mission Estate 2018 Syrah Gimblet gravels

Spice pepper mod tannins lighter style Ground black and green peppercorns

Mission Estate Late harvest Riesling 2018

Sometimes botyrtis tiny amount blended with Viognier and arneis 106 g l,Juicy ripe apricot

Mission Estate Barrel sample Huchet Chardonnay

2018 sl nutty a bit oxidised almond hazelnut nice texture Dry texture barrel older barrels


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New Zealand Wine Tour January 2020, Part 3, Hawke’s Bay, Te Awanga Coastal Region

Tim Turvey owner of Clearview demonstrating his new wiring system

Te Awanga is on the coast, south of Napier and benefits  from the moderating effects of the Pacific ocean. It is ideally situated for white, cooler climate varietals. We visited Elephant Hill and Clearview Estate.

Clearview Estate

 

From the moment of meeting the owner of Clearview, Tim Turvey, it was obvious that he knows how to grow stuff (pineapples, pine trees, avocado, juniper berries, olives basically everything you can think of) He has the determination and stamina to both work hard and play hard to make his success.   Tim purchased a small plot of bare land in the mid 1980 with a view to doing what he knows best, and it wasn’t long before he used his skills to grow grapes and producing wine from this bare patch. Looking around the olive and avocado shaded restaurant, the name “Clearview” no longer suits the heavily planted property. Tim has literally dug every post hole and strained every new wire. He discovered a small plaque whilst digging which revealed that this was the second site of the original Vidal vineyard.

Tim’s enthusiasm and commitment to his endeavour was obvious. He was quick to show us his recently innovations including a new steel post system to replace hours of back breaking hole digging. His best recent story was the accidental discovery that sheep let loose in the vines, leaf strip to the perfect height without eating the berries (and saving the cost and boredom of employing humans to do this)

He now has a small product of typical styles of the region and other more experimental follies. We enjoyed lunch in the shaded gardens while Tim brought out pairs of wine for us to try. I was too focused on the delicious the 28 day aged ribeye to make formal tasting notes.

 

Wines tasted

Tim makes six Chardonnays we tried 3 of these and the highly rated top of the range endeavour chardonnay made with extremely low yields, they were fruit driven wines with lovely balance. The Rose had good colour and lovely red fruits, more traditional style rather than the newer vogue for more subtle barely coloured Rose. Interestingly it is made with Chambourcin an unusual hybrid grape with red flesh.The Endeavour red 2016 is only made in exceptional years revealed the quality of fruit here.We finished with Sea Red – a lightly fortified red wine made from cane cut grapes to increase the sugar content. None of the wine is cellared and mostly sells to the NZ market or at the cellar door, at reasonable prices given the high quality of wine.

Tim was too generous and passionate to leave it there. We were taken went to his authentic winery to taste a selection of barrel samples. I noticed an unusual brown cladding to some of his fermentation tanks which is a material derived from his surf board making days. Tim said it’s the best insulator he’s found. We finished with a sample from a tiny barrel of botrytized Chardonnay painstakingly made from very small quantities of noble rotted fruit. It was phenomenal and a fitting end to one of the best wine experiences I’ve had over the years.

Elephant Hill

The magnificent no expense spared winery at Elephant Hill

Elephant Hill is a new comer to the region with high tech new facilities officially opened in 2008. The focus is on low yield from top quality sites. It was originally set up by the late founder Roger Weiss  and is now led by his son Andreas.The winery is stunning, designed by architect John Blair. It is Bauhaus, clean lined  covered with beautiful turquoise coloured copper which during a  four and a half year process it was oxidized in Germany to give this effect. It blends in seamlessly with the colours of the sea off Cape Kidnappers.

They have 62 hectares  including holdings in the Bridge Pa triangle and Gimblett Gravels and Te Awanga on the coast, and are one of the top 5 Syrah producers in New Zealand. Categories of wines go from Estate to Reserve to Limited edition and Ultimately Icons

 

Wines Tasted

 

Elephant Hill Estate Chardonnay 2016

pickled lemon, citrus, fresh, some smoke barrel influence texture

Elephant Hill Reserve Chardonnay 2017

More smoke flintiness wood vanilla possible salinity r(ight by the Pacific and sometimes the sea washes up to vineyard) No or minimal malo, hazelnut almond on the palate not overtly buttery Very nice length

Elephant Hill Icon Salome 2017 after Maria Salome family history dating to 1700’s

Rich well seasoned barrel, First year T5 Malo 35% pineapple, mango,, nuttiness saltiness long long on plate and sides mouth

Elephant Hill Stone 2016 Syrah

Black fruit lovely soft ripe tannins flinty stony good acid ,1% Viognier

Elephant Hill Airavata Syrah 2015

70 Gimblett gravels 30% Te awanga, fruit, soft silky tannins, floral soft fruit tone cherry and spice black pepper

Elephant Hill Hieronymus 2015

Full bodied delicious black fruit tannin and chocolate 41 cs 22 merlot 17 cab franc Malbec 8 Tempranillo, smoky leathery Structured tannins. Needs a few more years

 

Special thanks to Aaron O’Connell for his help writing this post and his companionship during many days of hard work in Hawke’s Bay

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New Zealand Wine Tour January 2020, Part 3, Hawke’s Bay, Taradale

Church Road

 

 

We reached Church Road winery via a lovely, easy, flat, dedicated bike trail from Napier which hugs the coast, initially going past the harbour full of commercial logs ready for export to China. It then goes via the wetlands created when the ground rose by over 6 feet during the devastating earthquake of 1931, it was initially the harbour. Church Road has a long history dating back to 1897 when a former member of the Mission founded Taradale Vineyards on a 2 hectare site. Tom McDonald who worked since age 14 on the vines and in charge of property aged only 19. It later became McDonald wines. Tom pioneered some of New Zealand’s earliest wines receiving an OBE in 1976. Now owned by Pernod Ricard the range is diverse including unusual varietals such as Marzemino and Sauvugnon Gris. The Grand Reserve and flagship TOM are only made in the best years.

 

Church Road Pinot Gris Gwen 2019

Smooth textured sl tropical fruit guava

Church Road 1 Chardonnay 2018

Smoky flinty Chardonnay Juliette said smells of twiglets I think reflecting the lees ageing smoky savoury texture

Church Road Gwen Rose 2019

Merlot 92% Tempranillo 7% Malbec 1% more subtle Provence style Rose

Church Road Rose 2019

Californian style, red cherry raspberry fruit forward

Church Road Marzemino 2018 (grape from Trento Alto Adige, Italy)

Nice soft tannin dry good acid back bone

Church Road Tempranillo 2017

3 other growers of Tempranillo in Hawkes bay, blue fruits hint mocha

Church Road Grand réserve Syrah 2017

Lighter elegant style Syrah floral red fruit, as a few people have commented this is our Hawke’s Bay pinot.

Church Road Tom Syrah 2015

Flagship Syrah named after  Tom McDonald.  black fruits but tasted Slightly Porty ?oxidised

Church Road TOM Cabernet Sauvignon  Merlot 2015

Grand Reserve Cabernet from Bridge Pa site 66%  Merlot 23% from Gimblett Gravels TOM +++ best wine yet of Hawke’s Bay tastings but $220 per bottle! Only at cellar door or duty free.

Brilliant…Just after telling Aaron these super premium wines are wines not worth it I took a swirl of this in my mout and told him I take back everything I just said!. Amazingly concentrated long complex plum black cherry violet cedar vanilla with beautifully integrated fine grained ripe tannins fruit oak and intensity, long long on palate one to age for a long time


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New Zealand Wine Tour January 2020, Part 3, Hawke’s Bay, Havelock North

Craggy Range

My visit to Craggy Range was well overdue. Their wines have long been one of my favourites. My first experience of them was a Craggy Range Le Sol back in 2004 at a wine society tasting in London with my French brother in law Seb. We were instantly struck by the concentration and intensity of this wine. So good was the Le Sol, we acquired a bottle that same evening and took as a BYO to the nearest Steakhouse. Kiran and I have long been fans of their excellent Bordeaux blend, Sophia, and have enjoyed many vintages over the years. The overall commitment to excellence shines through in their wines which we know well having hosted wine dinners over the years with Steve Smith MW. Steve has now left and set up his own business with American Brian Sheth (Smith and Sheth)
Craggy Range is owned by The Peabody family who have put it in a 1,000 year trust so it can never be sold, with the intention of creating a true legacy. The winery is a no expense spared tome to wine, set in magnificent gardens at the foot Te Mata peak.
The modern beautifully designed  winery is purely for Sophia. The other wines are made in a different site. We had the wine tasting in the garden enjoying the Hawke’s Bay summer.

Wines Tasted

Craggy Range Chardonnay 2019 kidnappers bay
Lemon citrus good acid fresh minerality
Craggy Range Les Beaux Cailloux 2017
This has not been made for a few years due to lead roll virus destroying the vineyards which have since been replanted.
Mineral soft textured smoky with beautiful balance. Pete the head somm rubbed together the stones found in the vineyard. The resulting aroma reflected some of the smoky minerals flinty nature of the wine. I couldn’t help myself in licking the stones which had a salty smoky taste, surprisingly delicious!
Craggy Range Te muna Road 2016 Pinot Noir
From Vineyards in Martinborough, Lovely ripe fruit cherry plum soft tannins
Craggy Range Te muna Aroha 2017 Pinot Noir
Sources from Vineyards in Martinborough Rich ++ complex perfume gamey wild berries could splash it on soft silky tannins ++ fantastic quality Pinot Noir displaying why this grape is so intoxicating.Aroha means love a very fitting name for this wine.
Abel clone gumboot clone ? origin from DRC clones smuggled back to NZ and confiscated.
Craggy Range Le sol 2016
100% Syrah20% whole bunch rich smooth blueberry long lovely tannins
Unidimensional at this stage, needs time to develop
Craggy Range Sophia 2011 and 2016
2016
Merlot dominant cab sav cab franc
Tannins beautiful acid lovely fruit beautiful wine+  mocha
2011 more complex but hint of oxidation
As expected the wines were fantastic reflecting the philosophy and investment here. Peter explained that after years of research based on blind tastings of screw caps, Diam and cork that everything from now will be bottled with screw cap. A trend that is understandably becoming more universal.


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New Zealand Wine Tour January 2020, Part 2- Northland – Doubtless Bay

 

Dancing Petrel Wines

Whilst sitting enjoying coffee at Waterfront bar in Mangonui, I spotted some beautiful vineyards on the slopes at the far side of the harbour. These are the vines of the newly founded Dancing Petrel Wines named after the Storm Petrel, which pirouettes across the waves. I was hosted by the very welcoming owner, Kim Gilkinson who has lived here since 2012 and bought the vineyards in 2018. She says the vines were not in the best condition. However she has put a lot of work in since. The plantings include a small planting of Tannat and recently Gewürztraminer. The wines are made at Marsden winery.

Wines Tasted

Dancing Petrel Viognier 2018

Carbonated, fresh apple apricot floral nice balance easy drinking

Dancing Petrel Viognier 2018

not overtly floral, apricot in the finish, dried apricot chews nice balance length sl saltiness

Dancing Petrel Viognier 2018 (Oaked) slight nutty on the nose

Dancing Petrel Pinot Gris

some fruit pear subtle

Dancing Petrel Rose

Syrah and Cabernet Franc hints of red fruits

 

This is not the easiest place are to produce grapes given the high rainfall and predominantly clay soils. However, given the amount of warmth and the North facing slopes, there is some potential. The stunning location on Paewhenua Island with 360 degree panoramic views over Mangonui harbour and the tourism should aid a new wine business.


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New Zealand Wine Tour January 2020, Part 2- Northland – Marsden Estate

Marsden Estate, Kerikeri, Bay of Islands, Northland, New Zealand

 

 

Rod Macivor founder of Marsden was preparing for his earliest harvest on record. So early that he was having trouble acquiring the yeast supply. Never in the 27 years since commencing Marsden has the harvest been this early. It had been a particularly dry few months. How much may be down to global warming is unknown, but this felt like an ominous sign. I had travelled to Marsden in Kerikeri near The Bay of Islands having heard about Marsden’s quality and the award winning Black Rocks Chardonnay. I was lucky enough to be hosted by Rod despite him being immersed in work. They had one of their grape growers field day/workshops today. Marsden works a bit like a Co-op with Rod making wine for over 40 individual growers. This reflects the scattered nature of Northlands wine growing areas over a large distance, the remoteness and low volumes produced. It’s not the easiest place to grow grapes with the high rainfall and humidity increasing risks such as fungal disease.

I was lucky enough to meet Mark Nobilo who with his many years of knowledge and wisdom advises local growers and winemakers in his own time. I also met Ben Byrne, winemaker at the expansive and heavily invested property; The Landing, which is making quite a name for itself.

 

Wines Tasted

Marsden Pinot Gris 2019

Floral pear textured slight spicy finish

Marsden Black Rocks Chardonnay 2018 +

Lovely buttery malo nose vanilla toasty peach. lees contact, smooth toasty oak long vanilla finish 30 % new oak lees few months

Marsden Viognier 2019

apricot tinned peach, bitterness good acidity

Marsden Tempranillo 2015

Red berry, chocolate yoghurt oak soft tannins 12 months oak cellar savoury

Marsden Chambourcin 2015

 American French hybrid recently commercial, salami nose peppery

Cured meats spice smooth good acidity

Marsden Syrah Vigot 2015 +

Mixture ripe blackberries spices turmeric pepper, lovely wine. I had to buy a bottle as well as the Chardonnay and Pinot Gris!

Barrel sample tannat

Blueberry and good tannin excellent development and approachability despite being a barrel sample.

 

The wines are made very well. I particularly enjoyed the Syrah and it was good to try a wine with 5 years of age.

It was interesting to try the Chambourcin, something more unusual which is adapted for the climate up here.

I enjoyed meeting Rod who exudes generosity, passion and ability which is reflected in his excellent wines.

 

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Rockford Basket Press 2000 Barossa Shiraz

It had been 10 years since I last saw Dr Mike Fay.
The last time we met he very generously produced a bottle of Rockford Basket press 2000 Barossa Shiraz from his suitcase, having crossed the globe from Australia.
It was in great condition and was one of the few highlights of my time recovering from spinal surgery. Very much the catalyst to recovery I believe.
A decade later he turned up in Byron Bay a mere 10 hours drive North this time.
With great delight Mike delivered another bottle of Rockford Basket press 2000 Barossa Shiraz. It had been carefully maintained in his self built cellar.
This is one of my all time favourite wines, to get the chance to taste a 20 year old bottle, to share it and catch up with great mates from Junior Doctor jobs at the Wairau hospital was a treat I really never expected.
It didn’t disappoint. Ben, my son’s first reaction was of amazement, ‘what’s this? I’ve never tasted anything like it before’
Mike and I had to keep the bottle closely guarded and rationed it out with great care.
What a nose! Polished saddle leather, tar, lilies, savoury, hint of smoke and still some black fruit, though fading.
On the palate it had the most silky fine tannins a lovely mouthfeel and slipped down too easily.
The perfume developed over the next 15 minutes.. that’s how long the bottle lasted.
Thanks Mike…looking forward to 2030!