There are currently only two PGIs: the Danubian Plains and The Thracian Lowlands which between them cover pretty much all of the country. Its pointed out that Bulgaria is on similar latitude to Tuscany and Bordeaux but this just means it is in the zone and actually has its own unique climatic influences and these vary dramatically across these large regions.

The Thracian Low Lands PGI lies to the south below the line of the Balkan Mountains. The climate is continental and the summers are warm.  The region is large and varied and informally divided into the Struma Valley with mediterranean influences to the west, Thracian Valley to the south, the Rose valley between the Balkan and Sredna Gora mountains and the Black Sea Coast with maritime influences which spans both PGIs.

The Danubian Plains PGI to the north of the Balkan Mountains is continental in climate and cooler than the Thracian Lowlands.  Influences include the wide water body of the Danube and to the east the Black Sea. It is therefore informally subdivided into the Danube River Plains to the west and the Black Sea Coast.

The Native Wine Grapes of Bulgaria:

Varieties include aromatic whites through to bold, structured reds.  Some are old and some the product of crossings produced during the communist era many with a terpenic Muscat quality.

White Varieties: Aromatic and Expressive

Red Misket, despite its name, is a white grape with a faint blush hue. It is also unrelated to the other Misket varieties. One of Bulgaria’s oldest varieties, it thrives in the Rose Valley, yielding floral, citrus-driven wines with crisp acidity. These wines are often vinified dry but retain an alluring perfume reminiscent of Muscat.

Dimyat is a sun-loving variety with Thracian origins, predominantly grown along the Black Sea coast. Known for its delicate body and bright acidity, it produces refreshing white wines typically with aromatic notes of roses. The sample we tasted ‘Why Not Red Misket’ by Milkov was actually more orchard fruity, with a nice wet stone and brine finish with light body and only 11% ABV.

Vrachanski Misket an old variety, hails from northern Bulgaria, offering intensely aromatic wines with citrus, herbal, and floral nuances. It shares a kinship with Muscat varieties, often resulting in vibrant, expressive wines. The example we tasted from Tipchenitza Winery was blended with Chardonnay and matured in French oak barrels and had an interesting mix of floral and peach notes and smoky wood.

Tamay Anka, is actually a clone of Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains so native but not autochthonous. It displays a characteristic exotic floral and spicy character.

Sandanski Misket, a rarity found in the Struma Valley, a crossing of Melnik and Tamayanka. It delivers aromatic, peach-tinged wines with a distinct herbal undertone, often crafted into fresh, dry styles.

Red Varieties: Both Power and Elegance.

Broadleaved Melnik, a signature variety of the southwest, produces complex, age-worthy wines with rich red fruit, spice, and tobacco notes. Named after the town of Melnik it flourishes in the Struma Valley, needing the warm Mediterranean influence to fully ripen.

Melnik 55, a modern crossing of Broadleaved Melnik, ripens earlier and delivers softer, fruit-driven reds with vibrant cherry and peppery spice. One example we tasted from Villa Melnik was ripe, full bodied with black fruits and spice and over 15% ABV, the other from biodynamic AYA estate elegant structured with slightly sour fruit notes and a little pleasant funk.

Mavrud, an ancient Thracian variety, is Bulgaria’s boldest red. It exudes dark berry, leather, and earthy tones, crafting robust wines with firm tannins and great aging potential. The example we tasted from Cheval de Katarzyna was indeed round and fleshy with tasty ripe fruits.

Rubin, a cross between Nebbiolo and Syrah, offers deep colour, ripe fruit, and velvety tannins, blending elegance with power. The results are surprisingly as attractive as the mix sounds. I tasted a couple of examples which had structure yet freshness and worked well oaked and unoaked.

Pamid, one of the country’s oldest grapes, is light-bodied and easy-drinking, producing fresh, fruit-forward reds best enjoyed young.

Gamza, known as Kadarka in Hungary, thrives in northern Bulgaria, yielding delicate, cherry-laden wines with lively acidity, often compared to Pinot Noir in finesse. We tasted two examples. The first Thomas Gamza single vineyard 2022 by Burgozone Collection which was light in colour, perfumed with red cherry, medium acidity and a nice savoury edge. Delicious. The second Koshava Gamza 2023 by Bononia Estate had 25% cabernet franc in the blend which gave it a slight herbal note and a little extra grip.  Still with soft red fruit and freshness a lovely excellent value wine.

There is a broad range of well-made wine styles here at attractive prices that will have wide appeal. I particularly liked some of the Gamza and Rubin wines which will appeal to lovers of Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo.