Greece’s wine story is ancient, its golden age between 500–300 BCE saw Hellenic culture and viticulture spread across the Mediterranean. Wines were often infused with pine resin, herbs or honey, more for preservation than flavour. But centuries of upheaval, from Roman rule to civil wars, meant Greek wine lost ground. Until fairly recently, it was largely defined by Retsina. However, since the 1980s, quality-driven estate bottlings have steadily redefined the landscape. Today, with rising exports and a growing reputation, Greece is quietly producing some seriously characterful and delicious wines.
The country’s geography plays a vital role. A warm Mediterranean climate dominates, though elevation and coastal influences bring vital moderation. Summers can be punishingly hot; Santorini, for example, sees as little as 200mm of annual rainfall. Inland regions swing to harsh winters, while strong island winds can challenge growers.
Greece’s mountainous terrain and low-fertility soils yield naturally limited, quality-focused harvests. Many international varieties are also grown which are still favoured by the domestic market. But around 90% of vineyards are planted with indigenous varieties, some 300 in total, many with real identity and resilience.
Assyrtiko, originally from Santorini, is a flagship white, prized for its tension between ripe fruit and taut acidity. Savatiano and Roditis are widely planted; when grown with care, they offer surprisingly refined expressions. Moschofilero and Malagousia add aromatic flair and freshness.
Among reds, Agiorgitiko is versatile and plush-fruited, while Xinomavro, from Macedonia’s Naoussa PDO, is more structured, with a profile not unlike Barolo.
Increasingly mainstream, Greece is now firmly on the map for thoughtful drinkers seeking something distinct, grounded in tradition, yet confidently modern.
I was delighted to find an old favourite the Argyros Estate Assyrtiko 2020
Made from a blend of vineyards with 100 year old vines, the wine spends 3-4 months on lees. On the nose, stone fruit, sea air and an undertone of herb; tarragon or cut grass. The fruit is ripe, there is cooked lemon with a salty tingling long finish in the mouth. The body is full and acidity bracing. This wine is made for food especially Greek dips, fetta and grilled fish. Delicious.
An old favourite tasted at Flint Wines annual tasting.
The outstanding Plethora from Vassaltis is a truly remarkable wine. It is made from late harvest Assyrtiko and spends 6 months on lees then 8 months in 60 year old vinsanto barrels then 2 years in bottle before release. A gap is left on top and sometimes flor grows. So there really is a lot of wine making influence in this complex drop.
Nose is reminiscent of a vinsanto: roasted nuts, smoke, hint of caramel, touch of balsamic. Very complex, a hint of Christmas spice.
The mouth feel is rich and textured with flavours of cake spices, orange peel and a characteristic sea salt and wet stone tang. Very, very long. An outstanding wine, extraordinary.
A delicious bottle of Estate Argyros Assyrtiko 2021 made me think of the just how extreme the growing environment on Santorini and admire once again how the combination of unique growing techniques and the special qualities of the Assyrtiko grape variety come to together to produce stunning wines.
Santorini Instagram central of the Aegean, is home to some of the world’s most unique and resilient vineyards. Here, where volcanic soils and fierce winds challenge even the hardiest of grapevines, local winegrowers have perfected a centuries-old training method known as kouloura—the basket training system.
Unlike the neatly trellised rows seen in most wine regions, Santorini’s vines grow in a low, circular shape, woven carefully by hand into protective nests close to the ground. This technique requiring huge amount of highly skilled labour in the vineyard, is vital to the survival of the island’s vineyards.
One of the primary threats to grapevines on Santorini is the island’s relentless winds, which sweep in from the sea with punishing force. The basket structure shields the delicate grape clusters within its coils, preventing wind damage and reducing the risk of berries drying out or breaking prematurely. This natural windbreak ensures that the vines can thrive despite the extreme conditions.
Moisture retention is another crucial benefit of basket training. Santorini receives minimal rainfall, but the volcanic pumice-rich soil has an extraordinary ability to absorb and store the scarce water available. It does mean vines are planted at very low densities so that there is enough water to go around. At night, humidity from the Aegean condenses on the vine leaves and trickles down into the soil. The low, coiled structure of the vines helps trap this precious moisture, ensuring slow, steady hydration.
This ancient technique, passed down through generations is one to the key factors behind the unique, concentrated and structured expressions of Assyrtiko that the Island produces.
When my good friend Richard, founder of Wanderlust wines knew I was off to Santorini he insisted I go to Vassaltis. ‘Best wines on the Island’ he told me. Started by Yannis Valambous a former financier in London. It is Santorini’s newest winery, outside the village of Vourvoulus. The winery is sleek modern light and spacious with excellent views over his vineyards to the sea.The first wines from Vassaltis were released in 2015. We were lucky enough to meet their two highly talented winemakers, Elias Roussakis and Yiannis Papaeconomou.
Richard was bang on.
The wines are fabulous. The restaurant menu excellent too and the vibe atmosphere and service of the staff lived up to all expectations. Definitely a highlight of our vinous tour of Santorini
Tasting notes below courtesy of Kiran
Aidani 2020
Aged for up to 2 – 3 years
The label design is shape of a volcanic stone.
Nice floral nose.
Fresh with peachy and citrus notes some jasmine florality and medium body with high acidity but less than Assyrtiko A lovely aperitif style wine.
Nassitis 2020
A blend of 3 whites Aidani, about 30% Assyrtiko and Athiri.
Lemon sorbet and wet stone on the nose.
More lemon zest, mineral and lovely salty tangy phenolic bitter finish. A great food wine.
Santorini 2020
100% Assyrtiko a blend of grapes from different vineyards all over Santorini 24 eur.
12 months on lees then bottled.
Immediate hit of dried herbs, rosemary thyme etc. then some lemon zest. Then emerging hyacinth quite floral.
Quite full bodied tannins felt on gums high cripsp acid nice long salty finish.
Gramina 2019
Gramina means field so this is a single vineyard wine from Vourvoulos the village nearby. 100% Assyrtiko grapes are handpicked early morning and the wine spends 12 months on lees and 12 months in bottle.
On the nose an attractive petrolic whiff with an undertow of herbs and wet stones
Full bodied, smooth texture with dried green herbs, fresh acidity and a long lingering salty stony finish. Excellent.
Santorini 2016
Darker richer in colour than the 2020.
A much more complex nose: petrol, honey, baked lemon, over ripe honey dew melon then salted almonds, really interesting.
Lovely silky texture, very complex ripe with some sweetness and nuttiness the saltiness is still there but less aggressive softened out by the other flavours and age. A superb wine showing how well Assyrtiko can age.
Santorini barrel aged. 2019
Smokey lemon and lime sorbet hint of petrol faint tarragon
Taught and almost austere structured wine herbs minerals and sea salt. Long.
Santorini barrel aged 2017
On the nose smoke a bit of vanilla and over ripe mango AKA petrol.
The nuts honey, increasingly complex.
Lovely full body with a silky elastic texture, sweet notes, complex softening out the austerity found in the 2019 Gramina. Very long and persistent. Another fantastic wine.
Laterals would be an aged Riesling or a grand cru Chablis with a few years. In other words, premium wines of complexity and character.
Open to debate but generally the non oaked versions seem to retain more of a unique assertyko character although the oaked versions are extraordinarily well made wines.
Plethora 2018
The outstanding Plethora from Vassaltis- a truly remarkable wine
Late harvest Assyrtiko 6 months on lees then 8 months in old vinsanto barrels which are 60 years old then 2 years in bottle. A gap is left on top and sometimes flor grows.
This closest to Nykteri approach that Vassaltis has.
Nose is reminiscent of a vinsanto, roasted nuts, smoke, hint of caramel, touch of balsamic. Very complex, a hint of Christmas.
Rich mouth feel, spices, orange peel and a characteristic sea salt and wet stone tang. Very very long. An outstanding wine, extraordinary.
The view of the vines from Sigalas outdoor tasting area (harvest was August the earliest in Europe explaining the vines appearance)
Domaine Sigalas is the closest winery to our base in Oia, the Northernmost point of Santorini. It is a very pleasant walk via the village of Finikia with its excellent restaurant Meze Meze.
Sigalas was founded in 1991 by Paris Sigalas a maths teacher.It has been sold recently.
They predominantly make Assyrtiko and other indigenous whites like Athiri and Aidani. Red varietals include Mavrotragano and Mandilaria. More recently they have been exploring the subtle terroir variations of seven individual villages of Santorini.
Paris is seen as a visionary and established the first vertically trained vineyards on the Island, almost heretical at the time.
They have almost 40 hectares of vineyard and produce nearly 200,000 bottles.
Santorini 2020
The wine spends six months on lees in stainless steel barrels.
2020 is apparently great year previous years from 2017 to 2019 suffered heat waves.
A nose of lemon rind and sea salt.
Medium body high acidity, great balance. Lively fresh pithy flavours with a tangy salty nice lingering finish.
Epta (7) Villages
One of a series of seven single vineyard wines exploring the terroir of different regions of the island. Made in stainless steel barrels but aged on lees through to next harvest.
Floral blossom notes some citrus underneath.
Some tinned peach at first followed by ripe lemon pith and characteristic herbal salty finish like rosemary salted fries! Again medium body high acid. Great length. Lovely!
Santorini Barrel 2020
Aged6 months in French oak barrels on lees. One in six are new oak and the rest second and third year.
Subtle vanilla and toast on the nose tiny hint of nice petrol.
In the mouth nice blend of oak and lemon peel, lovely full silky mouth feel, full bodied but with lift and long.
Nychteri. 2019
A truly massive white wine, more like a red, a real heavy weight with a price to match!
Kiran-
Traditionally late harvest, 18 months in oak. 6 grams residual sugar l so only just dry.
Nose of perfume spicy, sweet, nutty and of course vanilla – Coco Channel like!
Round and full bodied a definite sweetness.
Rich spicy fruit, medium plus sweetness, and endless length. Extremely complex.
Adam – From select grapes picked during the night
Aged for longer on lees
Rich highly textured deeper colour
Honeyed feels like a hint of residual sugar
Really smooth and complex, length++
Delicious +++++
Spyros Recommends aging 6-7 years. Salty mineral character keeps building and fruit falls away.
Reds
Mavrotragano 2019
Kiran -Mavrotragano was traditionally grown in the same way as Assyrtiko trained into low but struggled to ripen evenly. Sigalas and Hatzidakis began to train the vines in low linear runs and to irrigate to help ripen the grapes fully and demonstrate the potential of this indigenous grape.
On the nose lots of berries, blueberry and a little smoke then also some red berries and perhaps a bit of cheesecake.
Very appealing and tasty, medium plus body, medium acidity, medium soft tannin experienced upper lip. Ripe Fruity flavours with lashings of toast and vanilla but not overwhelming. Drinking beautifully.
Adam- Sigalas red 18 months in oak Mavrotragano 3 percent vineyard area
First vertical vineyards on island,
Plums, berries spice complexity
Lots of fresh red fruit and blueberries
Good Length a hint of spice, cumin.
Mavrotragano – Mandilaria 2019
Mandilaria blend with Mavrotragano.
18 months in oak Mandilara has high acidity but high tannin so good for a blend.
Nice chewy mix of strawberries and cream with a savoury herby bite.
The food from the restaurant at Sigalas is a fine match with their excellent wines.
We highly recommend the seafood risotto which you must call in advance and reserve as limited amounts made. It was also interesting to taste the caper leaves and stems which were slight aromatic and more delicious than capers themselves.
Santorini is not just about white wine. This red Mavrotragano was fruit packed and delicious
The passionate Vagelis Gavalas stands proudly with his father George
Gavalas winery
Gavalas was established in 1895 making it one of the oldest in the Cyclades. It is still family run with the fifth generation Vagelis taking on the realms. It is situated in the very beautiful hilltop village of Megalochori. Our Toyota Aygo almost ended up wedged into a tiny narrow street. We would recommend parking up and exploring the delights of Megalochori prior to tasting. We were fortunate to be hosted by Vagelis Gavalas who if he’d had his way would have kept us there all day! They have a broad range of styles and have some lesser known varieties such as Katsano
Wines tasted with Vagelis Gavalas
Aidani 2019
In the past vineyards used to be mostly assyrtiko but other grape varieties mingled in including Aidani. So many wines labelled Assyrtiko were effectively field bends. However, although the PDO still allows a percentage of other varietals all the serious wine makers now select to bottle 100% assyrtiko wines. At least as far as possible.
So as a result there is a fair amount of old vine Aidani and a 100% bottling appears on a number of wine makers lists. Its not made for aging and is best at around 2-3 years
The winemaking includes a cold soak, fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and 3- 4 months on lees with batonage , typical for aromatic type grapes.
Indeed, the wine is more aromatic and less acidic than assyrtiko. There is an aroma of rolling tobacco and ripe honey dew melon.
It has medium body, medium acidity, flavours of stone fruit, mineral, citrusy with a bitter lemon pip finish.
Vagelis Gavalas the wine maker explains that Aidani does have a bitter characteristic which the lees aging softens out.
Katsano 2020
This wine is a blend of two rare local grape varieties Katsano 85% and Gaidoura 15%. Made in a similar way to the Aidani and at 12% alcohol a lighter wine.
A floral nose, hyacinth with a green tinge of dried herbs, potpourri quite delicate
Lighter body, higher acidity, floral, green and refreshing. Similar profile to a gavi di gavi
Santorini 2020
100% assyrtiko in a distinctive blue bottle.
Blend of different parcels from across the island all vinified separately
Classically austere in style. Lemon sorbet, a green florality, wet stone and citrus pith.
This is my type of wine, fresh and clean with crisp acidity. More lemon, lemon pith and with a phenolic, herbal tingling finish on upper gums. Great balance the freshness masks the 14% alcohol. Really lovely!
Santorini Natural Ferment. 2020 14%
Made from old vines of 50 plus years and with wild yeasts. Slightly riper grapes with a bit more residual sugar. Some of the harvest matured in old oak barrels then a proportion blended back in.
A wine with a richer flavour and more texture from the longer lees aging. Lime, lemon pith, wet stones, fresh green herbs. A lovely characteristic salty tang on the finish. Excellent!
Nykteri 202014.5%
This is a barrel aged Assyrtiko using the best late harvest grapes using first run juice from grapes treaded into the night.
Vagelis explains that the old style Nykteri were heavy and oxidative wines made from the last batches of grapes, made in often partially filled barrels and intended for the wine makers own consumption. But now better more controlled wine making techniques are used to prevent over oxidation.
A smoky, volcanic nose with a hint of vanilla.
Ripe stone fruit, mineral salty and intense, full bodied but nicely balanced.
Enalia Santorini 2018
Even older vines at 120 years plus 18 months lees aging.
A pleasant whiff of petrol on the nose, more dried herbs.
A very intense palate, concentrated baked lemon, with a focused sweetness followed salty wet stones, goes on for ever wow!
Full body well balanced by high acidity which masks the alcohol level of 14.5%.
Vinsanto 2013
280 grams residual sugar.
Vinsanto is aging a minimum of 6 years, this one actually 7 years.
A real Corker!
Figs and dates with a hint of crème caramel on the nose.
Luscious velvety mouth feel with more soft dried figs and medjoule dates with faint toffee notes. Obviously sweet but with great lift and balance. Surprisingly low alcohol at 11%.
This lasts and lasts. Complex and delicious!
We could easily have stayed all afternoon, such was the quality of the Gavalas wines and the passion of Vagelis but we were already an hour late for our booking at the highly recommended Metaxi Mas restaurant .
Venetsanos Winery
Venetsanos winery perched spectacularly on the edge of the Megalochori Caldera
Venetsanos is one of the oldest wineries in Santorini founded by George Venetsanos in 1947. The winery was excavated vertically inside the volcanic rock. They used gravity for the wine making process. The wine flowing down pipes more than 300m down, to be loaded in the ships in the port of Athinios. The wine was exported to France, Russia and Egypt.The tasting was held on on a rocky terrace with the stunning caldera below and overlooking the port All wines are single vineyard with low production and high quality.
Santorini
Assyrtiko 100%,Crisp acid lemon grapefruit lingering bitterness and salinity
Nykteri
Vanilla whisky creamy texture Rich wine, Nykteri harvest at night, late harvest with oak ageing
Anagallis
Rose wine deep pink colour ferment with 2 white grapes and mandilaria red.
Delightful perfumed red fruit candied strawberry and red cherry nose
Hint of residual sugar. A crowd pleaser more American in style Mandilaria
Red grapes not overly complex drying tannins all over mouth reminders of an Italian wine possibly Barbera
Vin Santo
Assyrtiko10 to 15 days drying grape, Luscious very sweet some oxidation nuttiness, fig, date, prune and vanilla
View from Venetsanos restaurant overlooking the port of Athinios
I first tried Assyrtiko at Pete Barry’s home in the Clare Valley, Australia. It was early November 2016. That day he launched Australia’s first Assyrtiko from vines he brought back from Santorini many years before. I was struck by its vibrant, crisp, fresh, citric qualities, superbly made wine as you would expect from the Jim Barry wines. Pete talked sentimentally about Santorini and it has been on my list of places to visit since. It has taken a few years, with other priorities and of course Covid! Five years later I have made the trip and will review some of the best wines and wineries one the Island. Those who appreciate all things vinous also seek the best cuisine. So I have included restaurant tips and a few other general recommendations.
Firstly a bit of factual background – Santorini is the southernmost Island out of the 33 Cyclades islands in the South Aegean Sea. The vineyards are over 3,500 years old, among the most ancient viticultural regions in the world. The volcanic soils have protected the vineyards from the phylloxera, so the vines survived the epidemic of the late 19th century. Historically Santorini was renowned for its sweet dessert wine “Vinsanto”. More recently, with modern winemaking techniques and preferences, Santorini is known for producing highly-regarded, complex quality wines. It is most famous for its dominant variety Assyrtiko– which which along with Athiri, Aidani , constitutes 80% of the vineyard area. The remaining 20% are red varieties Mandilaria and Mavrotragano
We arrived early October. On the drive from the airport to the Northern most tip Oia we passed through a harsh dry unforgiving landscape. Harvest had well passed, being of the earliest in Europe. The vines appeared sad dry and dejected. I wondered how anything could grow here given to dry arid heat and hard stony volcanic soils. This harsh environment creates a low yield, highly prized harvest which reflect the terroir. They have developed a innovative pruning system the Kouloura. This is a basket-weaved shape close to the ground to minimise wind damage during flowering and to protect against sunburn. It also helps collect any moisture from the rocks on the ground.
Another method used is Kladeftiko (small ring). This method is slightly higher off the ground allowing more aeration.
What to expect from the Assyrtiko variety?
Previous wines I have tried displayed the characteristic citric, high acid, mineral salty notes with a distinct phenolic bitterness of the finish. Other elements were of a herbal smoky nose. Only one way to find out…
By chance, Kiran had chosen to visit the same week, on the same Island, in the same town! We chose five wineries to visit from recommendations and personal contacts. Tasting notes are a mixture of mine and Kiran’s.
Estate Argyros
Wines tasted
Wine production at Arygyros dates back to 1903. I had been drinking their introductory Atlantis range red from Mavrotragano .Served slightly chilled as an aperitif. It was a lovely way to watch the sunset on our terrace at Oia Mare villas. I was particularly looking forward to the Vinsanto, the longest aged in Santorini and one of the best sweet wines in Greece. Argyros have a stunning new modern winery. Very spacious clean and bright near the village of Pyrgos. They own some of the Island’s oldest vines two hundred or more years old The fourth generation of the family produces three Assyrtikos, an Aidani, a full-bodied red from the Mavrotragano grape. We were lucky enough to be hosted by the delightful and informed Elisavet Loukaki.
Estate Aidani 2020 Spends 3 months on lees in stainless steel from 40 year old vines. Retails at 25 eurFloral nose, peach and herbs, lovely.On the palate, stone fruit, lemon rind, medium body, medium plus acidity. Nice length.A nice aperitif wine to sit in the autumnal sunLess acidic and more aromatic than Assyrtiko . . Estate Assyrtiko 2020
A blend of vineyards with 100 year old vines, spends 3-4 months on lees.Stone fruit, sea air and an undertone of herb, tarragon or cut grass.Ripe stone fruit, cooked lemon with a salty tingling long finish in the mouth.Fuller body and high acidity.This wine is made for food especially Greek dips, fetta and grilled fish. Estate Cuvee Monsignori 2018 From 200 year old vines and spends 11 months in stainless steel vats on lees with batonage. 14% alcohol retails at 30 eurA pleasant whiff of petrol, apricots and ground hazel nuts honeyAgain ripe fruit, concentrated, full bodied but balanced by high acid. Nice tension from a green note underneath, very long. Delicious. A lateral would be a minerally full bodied Austrian Smaragd from the Wachau.
Estate Cuvee Evdemon 2017 From two parcels 150 year old vines near Pyrgos biodynamically cultivated. Fermented in 25% in French oak barrels then blended and aged for 30 months in stainless steel vats on lees. 45 eurToasty smoky notes with apricot jam, baked fruits and a note of cream. Intense.Very concentrated with full body, high alcohol but balanced by high acidity. Again a salty finish Very long. Again a ripe Gruner Veltliner comes to mind as a lateral such as the oaked Brundelmayer Ried Lamm Vin Santo 2013 13.5 % Mostly Assyrtiko but some other grapes in the blend. Assyrtiko 80 Aida I 10 athiri 10Grapes are sun dried grapes for10 days. The wine spends 3 years in cement vats and 4 years in barrels.The nose is complex a mix of figs, nuts & dates and spices.Great balance sweet 220g/l but with great freshness. Vin Santo late release 2001 For this wine the grapes are sun dried for 14 days. It spends 3 years cement vats but then 16 years in used barrels. Topped up in a kind of solera system Brown tinges are clearly visible showing the wines 20 years.The nose is rich with raisins, dates,hazel nuts and dried ginger. The palate is complex with figs dates and nuts and a spicy gingery tang. The sweetness is perfectly balanced with the fresh acid zing and it is very long and delicious. Outstanding
This was an impressive introduction to the wines of Santorini. The Vin Santo 2001 clearly something very special. Wines available in the UK via Clark Foyster. We were keenly anticipating the rest of the week
WanderCurtis Wine 