Rutherglen Muscat is one of the wine world’s most distinctive and underrated treasures, and Stanton & Killeen’s Classic 12-Year-Old is a fine example of the style at its most expressive and poised.

This wine is made from a unique local mutation of Muscat à Petits Grains Rouge, commonly referred to as Rutherglen Brown Muscat. Harvested in passes over several months to give a mix of fresher and shrivelled and sugar-laden berries, the grapes are crushed and start fermentation on the skins. Once enough flavour has been extracted it is fortified with grape spirit, halting the process and preserving intense natural sweetness. From there, the wine enters a slow, warm maturation process, typically in old oak barrels housed in tin sheds exposed to Victoria’s sweltering summers and cool winters. Over many years, this environment promotes oxidation and concentration, developing the deep, caramelised, nutty and savoury complexity for which the style is known. Each component is carefully blended from solera-like systems to achieve harmony and depth in the final multi vintage wine.

In the glass this wine is deep brown, almost mahogany, with a faint greenish glint at the rim, a quiet visual reminder that, despite its richness, this is technically a white wine. The nose has dried rose petals and potpourri, cooked apple, and layers of warming spice, cinnamon, nutmeg, even a touch of savoury soy. From there it deepens into a swirl of sticky dates, fig, raisin and brown sugar, underpinned by a rich seam of chocolate, caramel, and toffee.

On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and unmistakably sweet, though a brisk, well-judged acidity keeps everything in check. It’s intensely flavoured, concentrated and unctuous — a wine that seems to coat the tongue but finishes clean and long, echoing its medley of dried fruits, spices and oxidative notes. The alcohol is moderate by fortified standards, and neatly integrated.

This is an extraordinary wine not just for its complexity and texture, but for the way its elements are held in such fine balance. It’s layered, richly flavoured and confidently made, delivering depth without heaviness, and showcasing the unique aged style that Rutherglen delivers.