Jean-Francois Ott led a recent vertical tasting of the Domaines’ rose wines to show case their ability to age and the Maisons Marques et Domaines Portfolio Tasting

Domaines Ott⋆ part of the Roederer group is a prestigious collection of three estates in the Var department of southern France, producing exceptional wines across two renowned appellations: AOC Côtes de Provence and AOC Bandol.

The Estates

• Château de Selle (AOC Côtes de Provence)
  Founded in 1912 by Marcel Ott, this estate is located in Taradeau on limestone hills. Its 93 hectares of vineyards grow on gypsum, red clay, gravel, and stone soils, yielding elegant, mineral-driven wines.
• Clos Mireille (AOC Côtes de Provence)
  Situated near the Mediterranean Sea in La Londe, this 174-hectare estate includes 56 hectares of vineyards planted on schist and quartz soils. The maritime influence imparts freshness and salinity to the wines.
• Château Romassan (AOC Bandol)
  Located in Le Castellet, this estate features an 18th-century château and 83 hectares of vineyards on arid, gravelly soils rich in limestone and marl. The warm days and cool sea breezes create ideal conditions for Mourvèdre.

The Wines

Clos Mireille Rosé (AOC Côtes de Provence)vintages 2019, 2022 and 2023.
A blend of Grenache (80%), Cinsault (15%), and Rolle (5%), occasionally complemented by Syrah. The 2019 had pretty floral nose with roses, strawberries, raspberries, a touch of peach. A fresh herb note and wet stone too. There is also nice additional note of Pine needle. Whilst interesting the younger  2022 and 2023 vintages outshone this with more intense florality, ripper fruit, again peach notes but also a green cut flower character. With green herbs and along finish with a saline note.

Château Romassan Rosé (AOC Bandol)
Composed of Mourvèdre (50%), Cinsault (30%), and Grenache (20%), The 2020 was more closed with some red soft fruits a little bit of peach but mostly wet stone and dry cinders. The 2023 was still a little inexpressive which may be due to the dominance of the Mourvèdre. It was super dry and overall more savoury with herbal notes, more structured with fuller body and a nice texture to the mouth feel.

Étoile (Vin de France)
A blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre, partially aged in spherical ceramic vats to enhance purity. This cuvée combines fruit from all three estates.  The 2020 out of magnum was subtle on the nose, with florality, red fruit, peach herbs and even a little banana. In the mouth grapefruit appears and there is a nice roundness and a long fruity finish. The 2022  was a little closed and a bit less generous with cut flower and saline notes to the fore. The 2023 the most expressive with florality, soft red fruit and wet stone. Dry, fresh, nice body and a slight grip at finish which is long and lingering with fruit wet stone and a nice saline note. Beautiful!

My feeling which was echoed by a MW in the room was that whilst interesting the older vintages were out gunned by the delicious younger wines which displayed an elegant balance between fruit and wet stone and saline notes and were just a bit more vigorous.