Among many wine highlights this Xmas we’ve had courtesy of Franz’s cellar, a bottle of Mouton Rothschild 1989 (the year they got married). On the nose (quoting Franz), ‘misthaufen mit choco banana’, meaning rubbish heap and chocolate-coated banana.

It’s like walking through an Arab bazaar or souk with exotic spicy notes of cinnamon and cardamom, paprika and cocoa powder. Each scent brings something different, a rich and complex wine, beginning to go rusty around the rim but with plenty of life left. All this and absolutely delicious as well!

Following, a Smith Haut Lafitte 1999, which is a lovely mature wine with a nose of cold fireplace, menthol and tasty fruit. It is a contrast, much more feminine and although not as long, of a different class. Happy Christmas!