Subscribe to continue reading
Subscribe to get access to the rest of this post and other subscriber-only content.
Grafted roots stocks versus own rooted vines
Author Archives: Kiran
Tuscan Sangiovese
Sangiovese is the most widely planted grape variety in Italy, known for its adaptability and quality potential. It is an early-budding, late-ripening vine that is vigorous and high-yielding, often requiring green harvesting to control crop load for better quality. It performs best on south to southeast-facing slopes at cooler higher elevations ( 200 + meters) which help extend the ripening period. It thrives in the classic Galestro found in Tuscany arguably the home of this grape variety.
It forms the backbone of Chianti, where it must make up at least 70% of the blend, and Chianti Classico, where the minimum is 80%. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano also relies heavily on Sangiovese but in Brunello di Montalcino the wines are 100% Sangiovese producing powerful, long-lived wines.
This contrast between 100% Sangiovese wines and blends was brought home to me recently when advising on the selection of northern Italian wines for a wedding. I was struck by how sensitive Sangiovese wines are to the addition of even quite small amounts of other varieties. Canaiolo and Colorino are the classic varieties added for florality and deeper colour in Chianti Classico. These obviously change the aromatics a bit and the colour. However when international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are added that delicate sour cherry and chalky character of Sangiovese seems to disappear.
Given the quantity of the grape grown in Italy it is perhaps not a surprise, it can’t all be grown on these ideal sites and so blending is obviously a useful way of filling in gaps and completing a wine at a certain price point. And there really are some great reasonably priced wines from Tuscany.
The Ahr: Germany’s Northern Jewel for Spätburgunder
At a recent Wine Barn tasting who have an outstanding portfolio of German wines I was again struck by the magical Spätburgunder wines coming from the Ahr region.
Tucked away in western Germany, the Ahr wine region is a remarkable anomaly in a country renowned for its white wines. Situated at over 50 degrees latitude, it is Germany’s northernmost wine-growing region. Despite its cool, continental climate, the Ahr defies expectations by producing predominantly red wines, a rarity in such northerly latitudes.
The region’s distinctive geography plays a key role in its success. The Ahr River carves a narrow, winding valley, creating a natural amphitheatre that shields the vineyards from cold winds. Steep, south-facing slopes maximize sun exposure, allowing grapes to ripen fully despite the cool conditions. The vineyards are planted on dark slate and volcanic soils, which absorb and radiate heat, aiding in grape maturation and lending a subtle mineral character to the wines.
The Ahr is renowned for its Spätburgunder (the German name for Pinot Noir), which thrives in the region’s unique microclimate. These wines are elegant and expressive, with bright red fruit flavours, delicate spice, and earthy undertones. The slate soils impart a signature minerality, giving the wines remarkable finesse and aging potential.
I loved the full range of wines of Weingut Meyer-Näkel. In particular the Sonnenberg Spätburgunder Grand Cru was superbly perfumed, with a concentrated fruit core with spicey savoury notes and tremendous length.
Sadly the region is small with just over 550 hectares of vineyards and so the production is also limited. Although the wines are generally premium for the quality compared to the prices that red Burgundy commands they represent value.
Washington State Wine
Although most of the wine produced in Washington State is sold locally it was great to see the wines on show in London at the Pacific Peaks and Vines ‘The best of Washington State and Oregan wines’ tasting.
Washington State is the second largest wine producing region after California in the USA offering a wide range of wine styles and grape varieties. Situated in the Pacific Northwest, it has over 1,000 wineries and very large areas of vineyards.
The majority of the state’s vineyards are located east of the Cascade Mountains, where the range creates a rain shadow effect, resulting in a dry, strongly continental climate. This region enjoys long, sunny days and cool nights, ideal conditions for achieving full grape ripeness while retaining acidity. The topography includes flat areas and hillside slopes and there are a range of soil types including volcanic ash, sand and silt and glacial sediment. In this dry climate drip irrigation is often used.
Washington is home to 20 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), with the Columbia Valley being the largest and most significant. This AVA encompasses several renowned sub-regions including Waluke Slope AVA, Yakima Valley AVA, Red Mountain AVA and the fabulously named Horse heaven AVA and Rattlesnake Hills (known for high altitude Rieslings).:
Washington State’s vineyards are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, the region’s signature grape, known for its bold, fruit-forward profile and aging potential. Other key varietals include Merlot which has suffered in popularity worldwide, Syrah and Riesling.
Chateau Ste. Michelle founded in 1934 is the state’s largest and most recognized winery producing half of all the wines. The Chateau St Michelle Riesling which is off dry is according to the winery most consumed Riesling in the world!
An advocate for Sylvaner: Thomas Larmoyer of Soil Therapy, Alsace.
Subscribe to continue reading
Subscribe to get access to the rest of this post and other subscriber-only content.
Choosing the next NYN Wine Co Vinho Verde Blend
Alex and Manuel cofounders of The Not Yet Named Wine Co hosted an event recently which asl always put subscriber participation at the heart of their next bonus Vinho Verde wine release.
The very first wine that NYNW made was an Alvarinho from Vinho Verde made at Quinta de Soalheiro. Now they are making a bonus Vinho Verde with VineVinu which is Manuel’s family winery.
A bit of background on the region before revealing how the evening went.
Situated in the northwest of Portugal, the Vinho Verde region is renowned for its fresh, aromatic wines. Its location between the Atlantic Ocean to the west and mountain ranges to the east creates a moderate maritime climate, ideal for grape growing. The Atlantic’s cooling influence brings humidity and gentle breezes, while the mountains provide shelter from harsher inland weather. The region is further shaped by its river valleys, including the Minho, Lima, and Dour, which connect the coast to the interior, creating diverse microclimates and promoting balanced grape ripening.
Vinho Verde is best known for its white wine blends, crafted from native grape varieties that thrive in the region’s cool, damp conditions. The main grapes include:
- Loureiro – Floral and fragrant, with aromas of citrus blossom and green apple.
- Alvarinho ( same as Alborino grown in Rias Biaxas just to the north) – Known for its structure and elegance, offering notes of peach, citrus, and minerality.
- Pederna (also called Arinto) – Crisp and zesty, contributing bright acidity and citrus flavors.
- Avesso – Richer and fuller-bodied, with stone fruit notes and a creamy texture.
- Trajadura – Delicate and fresh, adding subtle orchard fruit flavors and softness to blends.
- Maria Gomes (known as Fernão Pires elsewhere) – Aromatic and fruity, with notes of citrus, tropical fruit, and subtle spice.
While most Vinho Verde wines are blends, the Monção and Melgaço sub-region produces 100% Alvarinho wines.
On the evening we were presented with three blends. Each was based on Alvarinho and Loureiro with varying additions of Arinto and Maria Gomes.
We were not told what the blends were but served the wines blind to taste. Everyone then voted for their favourite and runner up blend.
The winning blend was then announced based strictly on receiving the most votes and will go on sale in the summer!
A fun and interesting experience and I would definitely recommend subscribing to NYNW as its both fun and educational.
Was it the best wine? Well lets just say it was obviously the crowd pleaser!
In Signo Sagittarii 2013 Blaufränkisch Neckenmarkter Hochberg, Mittelburgenland DAC, WG Herbert Bayer
In spite of its 12 years in bottle this Blaufränkisch, from 70 plus year old vines in the warmer middle part of Burgenland, needed time to open up in a decanter. In fact left in the decanter for 24 hours the next day it remained incredibly vital with no hint of any oxidation.
On the nose the oak is immediately apparent expressing itself as sandalwood and toasted sawdust. However, underlying this plenty of black fruit remains and lovely notes of dried cherries, forest floor, tobacco and loam are present. Great intensity and balance and persistent finish.
A wine to savour now but with many years left in it. Pretty good value for a mature wine and back vintages are still available from the winery.
If you like Pinot Noir try Beaujolais Crus
This is a piece of advice that I’ve often been given over the years but have normally been disappointed when taken until recently.
In our last blinders Stuart and I were convinced that a wine Adam had brought was a pinot noir. Not only that but one with concentrated fruit, spice, savoury notes, lifted aromatics and aging potential. Too savoury probably to be a new world example and perhaps not concentrates enough to be Central Otago so quite possibly a very good village Burgundy.
Well it turned out to the a Morgon Beaujolais Cru!
Situated just south of Burgundy, the Beaujolais wine region is renowned for its Gamay-based wines, offering a range of styles from light and fruity to complex and age-worthy. The region’s climate is semi-continental, with warm summers and cool winters, creating ideal conditions for grape cultivation.
Beaujolais’ landscape is defined by rolling hills and diverse soils, which significantly influence wine quality. The northern part is home to the Beaujolais Crus, where vineyards are planted on granite and schist slopes, producing more structured and complex wines. Notable Crus include Moulin-à-Vent and Morgon, known for their aging potential and Burgundian finesse. In contrast, the southern part of the region is flatter, with more fertile clay-limestone soils. This area produces Beaujolais AOC and Beaujolais-Villages wines, which are typically lighter and designed for early drinking.
Most Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages wines are made using semi-carbonic maceration, a technique that enhances the wine’s fruitiness and freshness. Whole grape clusters are placed in tanks, where fermentation begins inside the berries, resulting in wines with bright red fruit aromas, low tannins, and a lively, juicy character but often a slight bubble gum / banana taste.
In contrast, the winemaking approach in for the Crus employs more Burgundian techniques, including traditional fermentation, oak aging, and longer maceration periods. This produces wines with greater complexity, depth, and aging potential. Moulin-à-Vent offers firm tannins and spice, while Morgon is known for its fuller body and earthy character.
Climate change and investment are clearly having an impact on this regions ability to produce outstanding quality wines at compared to its northern neighbour very reasonable prices. For instance check out the Wine Society’s 150th Anniversary Moulin-à-Vent 2019.
Kumeu River Cremant Blanc de Blancs
Made by the superb Kiwi winery Kumeu (Koo-may-oo) River where the Brajkovich family are famous for their stunning Chardonnays.
100% chardonnay, creamy and toasty in style with lemon, ripe apple and peach, flaky pastry, pastel de nata and roasted nuts. Its fresh and very long in the finish.
This has been kept on the lees for 5 years adding lovely yeasty notes and they have used 2008 Coddington single vineyard chardonnay for the dosage to add complexity and those nutty notes.
For those subscribers who took part in our recent offer enjoy – this stuff is delicious!
Not Yet Named Wine Co: ‘I helped make that wine’
Last year I signed up to the Not Yet Named Wine Co. at the suggestion of one of our regular wine dinner guests (thanks Carrie)
The attraction was that Alex Brogan who runs the venture offers an ingenious way of involving wine lovers of all levels to become part of the winemaking process. Founded by Alex and Manuel two Plumpton College Viticulture and Oenology students seeking a way to fund their own wines, the project has evolved into a vibrant community of wine enthusiasts, united by a shared passion for creating something truly unique.
At its core, the concept is beautifully simple: members pay a monthly subscription to participate in crafting two wines per year, one from the northern hemisphere and one from the southern. In return, they receive six bottles twice annually. What makes it special, however, is the democratic decision-making process. At every key stage, whether selecting fermentation methods, maturation vessel or blending styles, members vote on how the wine should be made, guided by detailed, jargon-free educational emails outlining the pros and cons of each option. Normally these emails come with an added dash of humour or at the very least a pun or two.
For those seeking deeper engagement a WhatsApp group offers a space to debate decisions with fellow members. The company also organizes annual vineyard visits (northern hemisphere), where subscribers can taste their wine in barrel and participate in blending or acidity trials transforming the experience from theoretical to hands-on.
The current vintage is being produced in Slovenia and Alex and Ales Rodica from the winery hosting the vintage, brought over some barrel samples of the Malvazija that we’re making for us to taste. And that’s the great thing about this, you do feel as if you are a part of the wine making team even if Alex is doing all the work.
WanderCurtis Wine 