WanderCurtis Wine

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Un petit Tour de France – harvest time 2023

The onset of 2024 has left me reflecting on my inherent Francophilia. This got the better of me towards the end of last year. I had been meaning to visit Alsace for years. It took so long partly because of my preference for red wine and more recently due to Covid.

My favourite varietal though is Gewürztraminer. This is very much a marmite love or hate grape. For me it’s love. The most textured, succulent, floral powerhouse of a wine I’ve ever tasted was a Matawherho Gewürztraminer from Gisborne in New Zealand. It was an early 1990’s vintage tasted at a masterclass with my boss of the time Dr David Durham at his home next to Cloudy Bay, Marlborough New Zealand in 1995.

The 1976 Hugel Gewürztraminer with a nose distinctly reminiscent of cannabis was a highlight of many years of wine tasting.

This grape has mesmerised me since. I also have great appreciation of the other white Alsatian varieties. Well made Pinot Gris is also beautifully textured and aromatic. Riesling whilst not my first go to drink due to its high acidity playing havoc with my gastrointestinal equilibrium is still a wine I highly regard.

So I finally made it to Alsace, and the  wait was worth it. Not only for the wines but for the delightfully preserved chocolate box towns and villages such as Colmar, Riquewihr and Ribeauville. It really feels  like an amalgamation of France and Germany as its geography and history suggest.

I was lucky enough to visit some of the top producers. See my interviews with Jean Frederic Hugel, Etienne Dopff, Jean Trimbach and Eddie Faller.

I stayed in central Colmar at the Hotel Le Colombier. This is very conveniently located centrally and  for the electric bike store on the same street. This is an excellent way to explore the region as there are many dedicated wine cycle routes throughout the area.

I wasn’t wild about the food, quite pork base and Germanic. They do an interesting pizza type of thing called a Tarte Flambee in French and FlammeKueche in German.

Then I hopped on a flight to Bordeaux.

Chateau Coutet, Barsac France

Visit to Chateau Coutet in Barsac, Bordeaux

It was the first day of the Rugby World Cup so the flight was awash with excited fans.

I’d had also long wished to visit Chateau Coutet in Barsac having met Aline Baly on many occasions in London. I’m also a fan of dessert wines, again not everyone’s taste. Aline was in Paulliac but generously arranged the Maitre du Chai, Laurier Girardot to entertain us.

We started in the vineyards surrounding the pristine opulent Chateau.

Laurier discussed the terroir, which is slightly different to Sauternes and a little further from the River Garonne. The style here being a little less unctuous than Sauternes and perhaps less botrytis. They also make a dry white. The wines as ever, were finely balanced, long and delicious with complexity evident in older vintages.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Next up a flight to Marseille, en route to another region I’ve longed to visit, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

It’s one thing reading about the ‘Galets’ (larger pebbles/ smooth rocks) which are characteristic of the area. it’s another thing to see them. The entire vineyards are literally covered with layers of Galets with virtually no soil evident. These rocks have been washed down from the Alps over millions of years dating to when the area was the bed of the Rhone river.

First visit, the famous Chateau de Beaucastel owned by the Perrin family.

Beaucastel were in the midst of the most fascinating new build. They had a competition amongst world renowned architects who tendered for the job. It was finally won by and Indian based firm. In keeping with Beaucastel organic and biodynamic sustainability, the new structure is being built with products of excavation.

The excavated earth for the new cellar is gently crushed and then taken to a large vertical mold and compressed. This creates the large slabs to build the new winery. It already looks amazing and effortlessly blends in with the environment.

We tasted the 2008 and 2019 Beaucastel and also a 100% Roussane of which little is made. The wines as expected were spotlessly balanced and full of fine grained tannins.

En route to Château La Nerthe we popped into Chateau Mont Redon

I was impressed by the Chateau Mont Redon range, especially with their most moderately priced Lirac which is full of fruit but also has a lovely mouthfeel. I have been buying en primeur Mont Redon from the wine society for many years.

Final visit of the day was to a very welcoming and passionate Antoine at Chateau La Nerthe.

He gave us the historical background. There have been grapes here since Roman times. More recently they were one of the pioneers of the Appelation Controlle system

This a stunning chateau with views reaching far and wide. We toured the cellars and we were lucky enough to witness a live ‘remontage’ and sample 4 day old Mourvèdre from the tank. It was surprisingly delicious given its age.

Wine tasting here can be a little confusing as 13 grape varieties are permitted.

 6 white grape varieties: Grenache blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Picardan. Grenache blanc, a mutation of Grenache noir, is the most commonly used grape variety. Red grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Vaccarèse, Terret, Counoise, Muscardin.

We tasted a range of their wines including

Château la Nerthe 2014 Clos de Beauvenir – it had an oxidised nose, almond, nice freshness and texture Good food wine

Château la Nerthe  Barrel sample, Syrah amazing for only 4 weeks old! Full of  fruit Soft tannins Delicious!!!

2020 Château la Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 25% Mourvèdre, Balanced, good year, plenty of fresh fruit alcohol well integrated

2019  Château la Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape . 35 %Mourvèdre Syrah 31 %Grenache 33 % about a third each  A bit more serious than 2020 and probably need more ageing to develop complexity

2020  Château la Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes which is made from their  best grapes 9.000 bottles only GSM blend

2019 Château la Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape Cadettes 55 % Mourvèdre floral earthy savoury serious big wine.

Antoine then brought out a blind wine which I immediately described as Pinotesque. I was happy to be correct in my deduction that it was one of their very limited production 100% Grenache.

This tasting was one of the highlights of many years of different wine trips. Thanks to @bossofthewine, Bruce Baldinger and the New Yorkers. We had serendipitously met them on the tour of the old Synagogue in Carpentras the day before and tagged along to this visit.

Finally I must  not forget the opulent Chateau La Coste in Provence. It was a short drive south from our accommodation in Lourmarin  through the beautiful countryside towards Aix en Provence near the village of Le Puy-Sainte – Reparade.

This is a real destination owned by Irish property magnate Paddy Mckillen. It has its own art and architecture walk, 600 acre sculpture park, a luxury hotel Villa La Coste multiple very high end  restaurants and excellent wine.

Despite the breadth and depth and quality of wines across the world, there’s nothing quite like returning to La Belle France!


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Brunello di Montalcino 2019 En Primeur – under exam conditions!

En Primeur, the sale of wines as futures, was until a few years ago a method of sale for premium Bordeaux and Burgundy but now it is increasingly being used for fine wines from other regions. 

In this tasting the wines are pre-release but not by much.  Brunello di Montalcino must be matured for a minimum of 5 years, including at least two in barrel, before being released to the market.  These wines are already in bottle, rather than barrel samples and due out in 2025. So this EP seems to be more about marketing and to generate some expert reviews and promotional activity amongst the merchants.

For the customer the days of buying a future wine to help the wine makers cash flow and enjoying a slight discount in exchange are largely long gone.  Now EP seems to be more about securing an allocation of rare or prestigious wines.

Brunello di Montalcino is a DOCG south of Siena within Tuscany. It is warmer and drier than Chianti producing more powerful concentrated expressions of Sangiovese. Its not far from the coast so parts receive some cooling breezes and inland the beautiful rolling hills provide a little elevation. Both of these factors help slow ripening down, which helps develop flavour and maintain freshness in the wines.

The seated format of the tasting was actually brilliant, no juggling of glass, catalogue (or e-catalogue on your phone) pen and pad, and no elbows required to push through the usual scrums that form around the popular tables – bliss!

It reminded me of how much I like Brunello and I was impressed by how approachable many of the wines were already on release. However with high acidity, fine sandy tannins and that concentrated red fruit they promise much more to come with bottle age. Many displayed classic sour cherry, dusty soft red fruits, bay leaf, dried herbs and a hint of black tea.  

It was great to try and compare and contrast the impact of different soil types, those with more clay seeming to display riper fruit. Also to contrast the effect of using either Slavonian or French oak casks. Whilst the French oak did add a layer of spice and sometimes subtle toast, none of the wines I tried seemed overdone. 

Of the many great wines on show a few stood out to me:

  • Argiano BdM – Lovely nose, balanced with a nice touch of spice.
  • Banfi Vigna Murrucheto BdM – Concentrated fruit and subtle toastiness.
  • Capanna BdM – Classic sour cherry, black tea and touch of wet stone.
  • Col d’ Orcia BdM – Intense riper red cherry and plum, dried herbs, bay leaf and a nice dusty finish.
  • Col d’ Orcia Poggio al Vento Riserva 2016 – Concentrated pot purri, raspberries, sour cherry, black tea, smoke and leather, super long. 
  • Sesti BdM – Consistently fine, roses, sweet cherry, cranberry, dried oregano,  black tea and freshly turned soil, amazing concentration. 
  • Sesti Phenomina Reserva 2018 – Knock put too!
  • Uccelliera BdM – A big wine but still fresh with rich cherry tart, roasted herbs and a bit of toast. 

Many thanks to Hunt and Speller and Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino for organising this great tasting and providing so much interesting information about the wines in the catalogue.

By the way don’t forget the Rosso di Montalcino category of wines too. Supposedly entry level  but many of the top estates produce what are effectively baby Brunello’s which represent great value for money and can be enjoyed sooner.

For more information on the region see our Brunello di Montalcino trip tasting notes.


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Bodegas Valdespino’s cellar

Jerez de la Frontera, so named as the boundary between warring Christians and Moors in the 13th Century is the home of bodegas Valdespino. And just look at this amazing cellar, in the dim light and controlled moisture haze it seems to go on as far as the eye can see!

This is where the solera for the excellent Inocente Fino and the Tio Diego Amontillado live. Both contain wine made from the highest point of the Macharnudo Alto single vineyard.

Doors to the west open to allow the cool Poniente breeze in

The best vineyards in the sherry triangle have Albariza soils which are a mix of limestone, silica and clay. These soils absorb moisture in the winter and then form a crust during the dry growing season retaining moisture and slowly releasing it to the vines. The gently sloping vineyards have a series of troughs, called Asperpia, worked into them to catch water and let it soak into the soil.  

The Macharnudo Alto vineyard has a little more elevation than elsewhere and so catches the cooling Poniente breeze from the Atlantic and the albariza soils here contain a particularly high level of limestone both contributing to more concentrated grapes.

In the cellar the solera systems sit side by side each with 10 criadera and the final tier of solera.  The Inocente barrels all contain flor and as with all Finos the resulting wine has been fully matured under a layer of yeast. Wine is removed for bottling from the bottom solera layer, where the wines are oldest, each spring and autumn when the flor is thickest. The wines therefore have an average age of around 10 years. The barrels in the solera are then topped up successively each from the criadera above it until new wine is added to the first set of barrels. The nutrients within the fresh wine added helps to feed the flor yeast and keep it alive.

The first three criadera of the Tio Diego Amontillado solera system have flor and then more spirit is added fortifying the wines up to 17% ABV which kills it off.  The wine matures in the remaining layers of the solera oxidatively resulting in a wine with both yeasty flor character and nutty, caramel type notes and a of course a darker colour. There is more evaporation without the floor and so the abv rises by another few degrees. Wine is only drawn off the solera once a year meaning that the average age of the Tio Diego is more like 17-18 years.

There is one other wine connected with these soleras and that is the Palo Cortado. Every now and then the wine maker recognises that one or two of the barrels ‘want to be’ Palo Cortado. It may be that the flor has died or the barrel displays some extra concentration or individual character.  These barrels are moved over to join the Palo Cortado solera producing Viejo C.P. or even the PC  VOS (Very Old Sherry).

There are 11 layers within these solera systems and there are 70 barrels in each making 770 in total. This sounds like a lot but less than 40% is taken out each year and with an average age of 10 and 17 years respectively it takes a lot of time and space not mention care and attention to make these fantastic wines.  

For tasting notes of the Inocente Fino see wine of the month


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Flint Wines American Tasting

Flint Wines have a comprehensive portfolio of wines from the USA and to support a recent portfolio tasting they have put together an amazing American tasting booklet.  It is packed full of maps, descriptions of each AVA’s character, climate, aspect, soils and detailed winery profiles. 

Quality grapes in California are very much a product of one or more factors in the vineyard that moderate the otherwise warm climate. The cold Pacific sends cooling breezes and overnight fog far inland along the State’s various east west valleys that cut through the coast mountains and of course San Fransico Bay itself.  Also vineyards planted at altitude on these mountain slopes also enjoy cooler nights. 

Grapes as a result ripen more slowly, developing flavour and retaining more acid giving the wine maker lots of good material to work with.  Growers of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and even Syrah are particularly on the lookout for cool climate pockets.  It was great to be able to visualise all this with aid of these maps.

The tasting was organised by region which allowed you to travel from one AVA to another comparing and contrasting and really see how wine makers are responding to the changing conditions.

Hats off to Rachel Dixon their USA Ambassador, who’s mission to educate about wines of American is certainly working! 

For me standout wineries included:

  • Chanin Wines –  Chardonnays & Pinots from Los Alamos, Santa Maria Valley 
  • Christom Vineyards-  Chardonnays & Pinots  from Willamette Valley, Oregan
  • Tyler Winery  – Chardonnays & Pinots from Santa Rita Hills, California.
  • Snowden Vineyards – Sauvignon Blanc & Cab Sauvignon from Napa Valley, California.


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What’s trending in Alsace?

During my recent trip to Alsace, I asked four of the most influential people in the Alsace wine scene  several questions.

  1. What’s trending in the Alsace wine world?
  2. How do you ideally envisage your business in the future? 
  3. If you weren’t in the wine business what would you be?
  4. What are your two Desert Island bottles of wine?

Here are the mini interviews 

Etienne Dopff of Maison Dopff et Moulin in Riquewihr
Jean Trimbach of Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville
Jean Frédéric Hugel of Maison Hugel  in Riquewihr 
Eddie Faller of Domaine Weinbach in Kayserberg


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Ebener Ebenauer Poysdorf Hermanschachern Grüner Veltliner 2021.

Ebner-Ebenauer make small amounts of biodynamic and organic wines from largely old vines in the north east of the Weinviertel region near Poysdorf.  The charismatic Marion and her husband Manfred are making waves with their very late disgorged Blanc de Blancs and Noirs but it is their range of single vineyard Grüner Veltliners expressive the varied soils and aspects that we are focusing on there.

Ebner-Ebenauer Poysdorf Grüner Veltliner 2021. A blend from across their vineyards, spicy, with wet stone a touch of white pepper and crunchy orchard fruit. Refreshingly moreish, light but managing to sustain ones interest. Great value.

Ebner-Ebenauer Poysdorf Hermanschachern Grüner Veltliner 2021. From a single vineyard with limestone and fossil soils and 30 year + vines. Citrus, fresh pear and apple a touch of white peach, white pepper, herbs and wet stones.  Mid weight with great focus and freshness this lasts long on the palate. Drinking now but will evolve over the years. My favourite and the pick for wine of the month.

Ebner-Ebenauer Poysdorf Bürsting Grüner Veltliner 2021. From a single vineyard of 50 year old vines, rich, spicy, juicy and complex, concentrated and full bodied. Decant or cellar for up to 10 years.

The 2021 vintage, by the way, across Austria really has a superb balance of fruit and freshness.


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Discovering Barbaresco – 2022

The weekends impending champions league final reminded us it was exactly a decade on to the day from our last wine trip to Piemonte.

We spent the May weekend of 2012 in  Barolo and were escorted through the region by Roger Barlow of Gerard Seel.

This time to Barbaresco, facilitated by our friend Mehul, a serious Italophile and lover of wines of this region.

The plan was to get a blind tasted overview of the 2019 vintage at Barbaresco a Tavola, then to indulge in the food and wine culture of Piemonte. We had arranged a few select winery visits.

Piemonte is renowned for 3 main red varietals, Nebbiolo of course, Barbera and Dolcetto. Their 3 main white grapes are Arneis. Cortese and Cortese.

We concentrated on Nebbiolo wines. They can be difficult to appreciate young due to their high tannins and acidity and the wines need patience.

However we were in for a few surprises.

Fine hospitality at Marques de Gresy, Barbaresco

The Agenda was Casa Nicoloni for blind tasted 2019 release Friday 27 th May

Saturday 28th May Produttori del Barbaresco followed by Ada Nada

Sunday 29th Marchesi Di Gresy

Monday May 30th Gaja

Produttori del Barbaresco 

 The Produttori del Barbaresco was founded in 1958. They now have 51 members and more than 100 hectares of Nebbiolo vineyards in Barbaresco. It is conveniently located in the small village of Barbaresco and wines can be tasted by just dropping in. They are well known for producing high quality and more affordable Barbaresco

Lange Nebiolo 2020.

On the nose: Aromatic, herbs, cut strawberry.

In the mouth: Nice balance, dusty tannin, fruit structure, medium in length. Approachable already. 14 euro very nicely made

Barbaresco 2018

On the nose a little volatile, rose, macerated strawberry, pot pourri

In the mouth: good balance, full body, sweet juicy fruit, little hot on end.

Barbaresco 2017.

Herbaceous nose, cinnamon, red tart fruit, cherries.

On the mouth: Rounded fruit, elegant structure, good fruit concentration, slightly puckering youthful tannin, long finish. Very good.

The 2019 although only recently bottled showed as one of the top 6 wines at the Tavola tasting. Confirming the consistent quality of the wines here.

Ada Nada

The winery produces 50,000 bottles per annum and is 100% organic, The Ada Nada farmhouse is located in Treiso, near Alba. They have a beautiful Agroturismo with a lovely outdoor swimming pool with panoramic views of the rolling hills.

Cento

Golden green colour, made from 100% Nebbiolo. Grapes are green harvested then the wine is made following a method traditional and the aged for 24 months on lees.

On the nose citrus, lime zest, orange peel some cream, in the mouth sherbet, finishing slightly abruptly. Fresh and fun.

Dilva

This is another 100% Nebbiolo method classic but this time with zero dosage. Made with skin contact and fermented in barrique then and aged for 60 months on lees. The wine is not long enough in barrique to impart a woody character but allows micro oxygenation.

This is a more serious fizz. On the nose: toasted brioche, toffee, flint and smoke. In the mouth stewed spiced apple, nutty, long and persistent, slightly drying from a dusting of pleasant tannin which counteracts the citrus finish.

Neta Sauvignon Blanc 2021.

Grown on north facing slopes.

On the nose a touch of grass, green pepper, concentrated confected pear drops.

In the mouth rich ripe candied citrus, well balanced but finishes a touch warm.

Lange nebiollo Serena 2021

Made in Barbaresco but from youngest vineyard where the vines are 18 yrs old the wine is made to be approachable and for earlier drinking.

Nose: red cherries, raspberries, dried cherries, light herb.

On palate: strawberry chew, chewy tannin, a well made great food wine.

Classic Barbera Pierin 2020

made in large oak 2 year

Nose: Dark cherries, a whiff of polish, touch of sawdust then strawberries, ripe fruit, voilets. In the mouth blackberry as well as juicy red fruit, medium acidity, fuller body, medium length. Tasty! another good quaffing wine.

Barbaresco Valeirano 2019.

The vines here are over 50 years old.

Nose: Mint, bay leaf, celery, cut strawberry, herb, then floral notes. A delicate and complex nose.

In the mouth: medium plus body, tart cherry, savoury meat, liquorice, herbs. Elegant long excellent!

Barbaresco Rombone Elisa 2018. This vineyard was planted in 1947.

Nose: more expressive, soft red fruit, baked strawberry fruit tart, spices, touch of polish and scent of pot purri.

In the mouth: Full bodied, savoury, cooked fruit, sweetness then a ton of tannin, fine grained. The finish is dry but with a line of fruit that persists.

Barbaresco Cichin Reserva 2017.

Spends 3 years in large oak botti and 2 years in bottle before release. From the rombone vineyard planted in 1958.

The wine maker naturally concentrates the wine by letting 20% of the juice run off and leaving the rest to macerate and ferment on the skins.

On the nose: Leather, perfume, pot purri, polish, orange peel, incense very complex.

In the mouth: Rich, spice, leather, orange peel, firm present tannin but drinking. Very long excellent!

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy

A memorable tasting hosted by the passionate Jeff at Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco

The Cisa Asinari estates of the Marchesi di Grésy include four wineries located in the Langhe and Monferrato region.

2020 Marchesi di Grésy Langhe sauvignon blanc

Flinty smoky slightly sulfurous, reduced,. Bottled 1yr, green gage, nuts, briny, 
7-8 mth stainless steel on lees 
Greengage, green pepper, tart lemon, mineral dust coating in mouth.  Fairly full bodied, good finish 

2016 Marchesi di Grésy langhe sauvignon blanc

Darker colour 
Lemon curd, sweet top note of peaches,  salty, floral 
Fuller body,  hint of peach, yellow plum? Reminds me of white bordeaux, thought a blend with semillon great finish,  excellent acidity 

2019 Marchesi di Grésy chardonnay 

Pale 
Ripe pear, maybe a little peach, great wood influence,  vanilla,  bit of smoke and toast, stone 
Tart apple,  peach, great acidity,  but drying,  very elegant 

2015 Marchesi di Grésy Chardonnay 

Coal smoke And toast, roasted hazelnuts, white flower,  
Caramel, lemon,  mineral,  really balanced and elegant,  acidity, linear 

2019 Marchesi di Grésy Dolcetto Monte Aribaldo

Cherry linctus, dark and red, strawberry,  stem, slightly burned nose, possible reductive 
Savory and tannic, tart cherry,  slight bitterness,  savoury finish, med acidity 

2015 Marchesi di Grésy Montecolombo Barbera

Treated like a barbaresco 
Turmeric and cumin nose,  dark cherry,  vanilla,  toffee, 
Dark cherry, really drying, super acidity,  a little hot,  herbaceous,  quite tannic in gums 

2011 Marchesi di Grésy Virtus Langhe Rosso – Cab Sauv and Barbara 40/60 

Green pepper Black currant leaf dark cherry,  
Blackcurrant, good acidity and tannin, balanced,  mid palate missing 

2007 Marchesi di Grésy Virtus Langhe Rosso – Cab Sauv and Barbara 40/60 

Much more developed,  great mix of the barbera linctus with blackcurrant leaf 
Mushroom to start on the nose 
Great ripe balanced,  fantastic wine,long… love it 

2004  Marchesi di GrésyVirtus Langhe Rosso – Cab Sauv and Barbara 40/60  

Green pepper Black currant mushroom caramel vanilla 
Another great balanced wine,  finishes v very cab, very beautiful 

2018 Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga 

Mixed vintage
Muted nose, slightly floral And herbaceous  woody notes, tart cherry 
Drying, good intensity and length not showing yet but had very good potential based on finish 

2017 Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun 
Made from specific plots on the outer edge of the Martinenga cru, bordering Asili

Dark cherry strawberry cream pot pourri, roses 
Drying,  intense dried flower,  incense,  tart cherry,  liquorice, finish forever long,  sexy, complete,   wine for the long term.

2016 Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun 

Darker 
Sandalwood,  Rose,  macerated strawberry,  white truffle, sapid 
More concentration, fruit intensity, liquorice tobacco, finish goes on forever
An epic wine for the long term. Touched something deep inside me, literally brought tears to my eyes

2016 Marchesi di Grésy Camp Gros Martinenga Riserva

12 mths small barrel 18mths large barrel,  3 yrs total 6900 btls made 

Dried rose,  sandalwood,  pot pourris dried cherry orange peel, spice – fascinating nose
Drying,  tart, regal tannins, stony,  tight. Not showing itself, wait another 5-10yrs for this to emerge.

Gaja

This iconic winery needs little introduction. We were fortunate to be hosted by the Giovanni, Angelo Gaja’s son.

He gave us a great insight into the wines and the challenges ahead. We looked out of the palatial Gaja headquarters to where the River Tanaro should be. Instead we say a dry cracked river bed with no water in sight. The Tanaro had dried up which is a worrying sign of things to come.

We tried a selection of their wines all made to perfection. Mehul requested a bottle of Sori Tildin (one of my desert Island wines) A vintage 2001 was duly decanted. A fitting finale to a memorable weekend in Barbaresco!


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Blenheim Vineyards, Charlottesville, Virginia , USA

Kirsty Harmon is a local girl turned renowned winemaker.

She grew up across the road of Blenheim and is well acquainted with the local scene.

Her first degree was in microbiology. She then worked as an event and wedding planner and worked for the previous owner of the Trump winery. She stayed on, ultimately becoming head of winemaking and general manager.

She Trained in enology at UCL Davis and won various scholarship for internships.

This took her to Craggy Range in Hawkes Bay New Zealand part of then Family of 12.

She also gained experience at Domaine Faivlely in Burgundy. She was the first intern there since 1837!

Dave Matthew a local celebrity in country music owns Blenheim and many of the labels have his colourful artistic designs.

It’s boutique winery producing 5 to 8 000 cases.

Kirsty with her microbiology background initially had a service lab for testing wines and helped out local wineries.

She has pioneered her wines all under screw cap, somewhat unusual for the US, but having worked in New Zealand and learned of its merits prefers this method of closure.

Blenheim Sauvignon Blanc 2021

100% Sauvignon Blanc steel fermented

Aromatic

Somewhere between new and old world

Goooseberry reductive, some passion fruit and tropical nuances

Blenheim Albariño 2021

Peachy stone fruit

Saltiness mineral

Delicious Albariño very typical

Amazing it shows such typicity and saltiness after such a recent planting in such a new environment

Heavy red clay here with iron which I’d noted when I visited the Trump winery for lunch.

Blenheim gruner veltliner

An interesting story, it was planted very much by chance when their 800 vines of Teroldago didn’t bud and they were offered by the Gruner the nursery!

Slight gun flint

Lean reduced nice acidity

Blenheim Cabernet franc 2020

Interesting Fractal wine label especially liked by the mathematicians

Kirsty prefers to make lighter style red

Enjoys the fruitiness

Full of fruit

9 months barrels

Some whole cluster and natural carbonic

Painter Red Nlend

2019

Lots grapes fresh fruity blend

Tasting with Kirsty reminded me that the winemaking in this region is a mere 30 years old and they are very much finding their feet and don’t know yet exactly what’s going to work.

She has a great pioneer spirit and along with Albariño planting from Mencia in Galicia, (also has clay soils and high humidity).they have planted Garnega, Tempranillo Roussane and Gruner Veltliner are among many others being planted here.

It will be fascinating to see what the future holds. It certainly seems to be in good hands.

Jefferson vineyards

This is an historic site with vineyards first planted by Fillipo Mazzei,Italian architect with the backing of Thomas Jefferson whos Monticello estates is nearby.

Recent plantings date from 1981

I was kindly hosted by Chris Ritzcovan winemaker and met the current owner Attila.

This is Chris’s 10 th vintage. His father made home wine which may have sparked in him an interest.

He trained locally at the famous University of Virginia

Chris mentioned they have a lot of vintage variation and also described the challenges mentioned on other visits

Wines tasted

Jefferson Vineyard petit manseng 2021

Dry, Sugar gets high

Neutral oak

75 cases made (only 3 barrels)

Petit Manseng originally form Jurancon-aromatic, peach honey ginger

High acid

Lovely texture lees ageing

Good balance nice nutty feel almond

Great effort here and shows potential of this grape in the region.

Jefferson Vineyard estate reserve 2019

Viognier, barrel fermented for 9 months in new French oak barrels Petit Manseng 6%

Really rich, full bodied oily with stone fruits, apricot and peach

Slight bitter finish

Jefferson Vineyard 2019 Chardonnay

Barrel fermented 9 months in oak

25 years old vines

Lemon, some vanilla, butter, lees ageing new American, new French and Hungarian oak (lighter spicier influence than French or American)

Jefferson Vineyard 2017

Cabernet Franc

Great vintage, 9 months in oak barrels

Fruit bomb, blue fruits

Plenty of tannins

Mouth and gum tannins integrated, Not green or herbaceous

Jefferson Vineyard 2019 meritage

Merlot and Petit Verdot, cabernet franc Malbec

20 months in oak Hungarian French and American oak

Blue and black fruits good tannic structure

Quite drying tannins

May benefit from more time

Jefferson Vineyard Merlot Réserve 2019

Smooth tannins wrapped with fruit

Chocolate and plum slightly hot

Made with Older vines 100 % French oak

Chris is also growing some Tannat and shows the same enthusiasm for the region as fellow winemakers.

Summary

The wines from Virginia are somewhere between new and old world. They are quite European in style. They don’t have the opulence and power of California but they still have more fruit and aromatics than similar wine growing areas in Europe.

It still a young region and experimental.

The current notable varieties performing well are Chardonnay, Viognier, Petit Verdot . Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

However, watch out for new varietals including Albarinho, Petit Manseng and Nebbiolo.

I’d love to visit again and explore other areas, such as Rappahannock, an hour north of Monticello. Perhaps a few weeks earlier, in October to witness the full autumnal splendour.


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South Africa: Reyneke Wines, Stellenbosch.

Johan Reyneke

Mostly when I ask winemakers about what they are doing to be more sustainable and to reduce their environmental impact the answer is all about stewardship of the land; vineyard practice, avoidance of pesticides, and perhaps a bit of onsite recycling. All good stuff, but as the drive towards Net Zero Carbon builds obviously the wine industry also needs to step up and make a start down this road.

Challenging though it may be, without plotting a route and taking the first step, the target will never be reached.  Equally we consumers need vote with our wallets and make it clear we care, not just about how tasty the wine in our glass is, but also about the journey has taken to get there.

Happily, there are some great wineries out there, leading the way on sustainability and one of them is Reyneke Wines in Stellenbosch.

Since the early noughties Johan Reneke has been working towards achieving the three pillars of sustainability: environmental, social and economic.  As he eloquently argues, how can a wine be beautiful if there is ugliness, in the form of glaring social inequity, involved in its making? He also makes the point that only a financially healthy business is going to be able to achieve any sort of environmental and social goals.

Johan sees Biodynamic farming as part of a larger picture of regenerative farming. Agriculture is one of top five contributors to climate change but regenerative agriculture actually provides the opportunity to turn this around. It can actually sequester carbon back into the earth by improving soil health and increasing humus content. Another win is by moving away from monoculture biodiversity can also be improved.

Reyneke works with nature to maintain vine health without recourse to chemical pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers. This ‘land caring’ element of the approach uses for example dandelions and other cover crops to provide a preferential home for pests. It also involves ducks trotting around the vineyards hoovering up snails.

Land within the farm is also ‘spared’ so that there are pockets of wilderness left between the vineyards which are rich in flora and fauna.  The farm’s herd of cattle currently roaming in pasture below the winery, are let into the dormant vineyards over winter to fertilize them. In a lovely example of the vineyard’s circular like economy the winery produces feed for the cows in the form of the grape pressings which according to Yohan they love!

Looking back towards False Bay with the farm herd of cattle in the foreground.

Improved soil health and biodynamic farming has made the vines more resilient to pest, fungus and drought and so by extension perhaps some of the other effects of climate change?

As we visit the Reyneke wine farm is currently being extended into a neighbouring farm recently acquired.  Some of the vineyards are being kept and some replanted. One can see where strips running along the contours of the hillside are being set side for biodiversity corridors between the vines.  Old vines are piled up and will be turned into bio-charcoal that will be mixed in with the soil, locking in the carbon long term.

New vineyards in preparation. A pocket of Fynbos top left, horozontal lines on the hill side mark out future biodiversity corridors

When looking at the road to net zero carbon any organisation needs to look at its Scope 1, 2 and 3 emissions.  Scope 1 emissions are C02 emissions arising from operations directly controlled by the organisation. Scope 2 are emissions up stream caused indirectly by the organisation when it buys in goods and services from elsewhere, for instance electricity or bottles. Finally scope 3 emissions are those downstream arising from the activities of distributors and consumers transporting, consuming and disposing of goods.

At Reyneke the farm is now carbon negative but Johan continues to look at the winery operations. He is investigating renewable energy in the form of photo voltaic (PV) panels, possibly in combination with electric tractors which could double up by providing some energy storage too.  The Cape is lovely and sunny but electricity is currently rationed in ‘load shedding’ which adds another reason for moving off grid.

Reyneke is also trailing the use of Tetra Pak type packaging as an option, starting with their entry level organic wines in Scandinavian countries who seem more open to the idea.  Clearly there is a challenge here in shifting negative consumer perceptions of ‘bag in a box’ type wine.  Moving away from bottles would deliver valuable reductions in carbon footprint in terms of packaging and transport.

A non-interventionist approach follows through into the wine making. Instead of temperature controlled stainless steel and yeast inoculation at Reyneke wild fermentation in oak barrels is the order of the day. The wooden containers and smaller volumes successfully manages the temperature during fermentation in a passive way. The wild yeast and breathability of the oak also give a different character to the wines in particular the Sauvignon Blancs.

Johan’s story is so fascinating, and the challenges he and his team have taken on are so inspiring that this intro’ section could easily run on and on so let’s get to the wines, which do not disappoint!

Reyneke Sauvignon Blanc 2021

On the nose, hay, a touch of gooseberry, a whiff of custard. Good body with lovely balance and freshness. A nice supple mouth feel, white peach, exotic fruit pineapple, creamy gooseberry fool. Complex with good length a wine that evolves. Excellent. (Tasted at the farm and again back in London with consistent results)

Reyneke Reserve White 2020.

This is also 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The reserve is made from selected pockets of grapes within the vineyard which have their own character. It gets 24 hours on the skins and the new oak barriques.

More stone fruit on the nose also a bit of hay and a subtle touch of vanilla. Lovely textured mouth feel, more peach and bit of toast, rich but balanced, great length. Neither of these wines are your identikit new world SBs, much more interesting and complex.

Reyneke Chenin Blanc 2021

The vineyards here are part of the South African old vine project so more than 35 years old.

The nose is floral and nutty. In the mouth apricot, honey and a slightly salty finish. Vibrant.

Reyneke Syrah 2019

On the nose, sweet blackberry, dried herbs and crushed pepper. In the mouth dried black fruits, iodine, ripe tannins, full bodied but fresh.  Long. (Tasted at the farm and again back in London where the wine benefited with time in the glass.)

Reyneke Reserve Red. 2019

The wine is 100% Syrah and again from selected parcels of the vineyard.

On the nose, blueberry pie, ripe fruit, pie crust, vanilla, coffee grounds, fresh garigue herbs. Iodine? Ripe blue and blackberries, powdery tannins, a herbal liquor note, savoury notes of grilled meat, full body and fresh acidity. Complex and very long. So good now that it will be hard to keep ones hands off this to let it mature! (Tasted at the farm and again back in London where again the wine benefited with time in the glass.)

Cornerstone 2019

A blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in this vintage.

The wine is named after the Cornerstone project.  Johan sees the workers as the cornerstone of the business, farm workers generally receive low wages as there is high unemployment and viticulture is the least profitable part of the industry. Scheme aims to empower workers with housing and education using profits from the winery.

Classic cassis, black current leaf, black current jam and a touch of sawdust on the nose. Austere at first, black fruits, green pepper, coffee grounds, slightly drying grainy tannins. Tasted again in London it opens up and fruit fills out the palate with bit of air. Still fairly primal at this young stage but good potential.

There is a vibrancy and depth to these wines which is compelling and it’s a quality that the Wander Curtis team have noticed on multiple occasions in other Biodynamic wines by producers such as Felton Road and Chateau Pontet-Canet. On every level there is definitely something to Biodynamic wine making.


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South Africa: Constantia and Hemel-en-Aarde

Not only does wine making in South Africa go back a very long way but winemaking in the Cape actually has a birthday: 2 February 1659! On that day Jan van Riebeeck recorded in his diary “Today, praise be to God, wine was made for the first time from Cape grapes.’

Sent by the Dutch East India Company in 1652, to establish a staging post to supply ships on their way around the Cape of Good Hope, Van Riebeeck lost no time on the important business of planting vines and making wine.  Apparently was essential to the treatment of sailors with scurvy.  Yet more historical evidence of the health benefits of red wine!

Constantia

Constantia lays claim to have the oldest vineyards in the southern hemisphere dating from 1685 when Simon van der Stel, the Cape’s first Governor established a farm on the southern slopes of Table Mountain facing False Bay.   False bay is of course a ‘real’ bay, it was just the wrong one from the point of view of sailors returning from India when they realised that they hadn’t quite reached the Cape Bay and still had to round the treacherous Cape of Good Hope.

Vin de Constance has since been revived by Klein Constantia and Groot Constantia also makes a sweet Grand Constance.  However, the comparatively cool climate, elevated altitude and generous rainfall (twice that of London apparently) means that modern Constantia is now home to a wide range of red and white varieties.

Where Van Riebeeck’s relied on enthusiasm Van der Stel brought to bear some viticultural knowledge and his name is firmly stamped on the Cape winelands. Quite literally as he named Stellenbosch town after himself and the imposing back drop of Simonsberg mountain serves as an ever present reminder.  The wines of Constantia attained international acclaim in the late 18th and early 19th C boosted by the war between France and England which made French wine hard to get hold of.  Famously Napoleon’s suffering during his exile on St Helena was greatly eased by a steady supply of Vin de Constance.  The wine at the time is thought to have been sweet and quite possibly fortified. Once there was peace and a trade agreement between England and France the market for Vin de Constance diminished and in the end the vineyards did not survive the onset of Phylloxera.

Groot Constantia

Groot Constantia (pronounce the G as if you are clearing your throat) is the largest part of the Van de Stel’s original farm.  A trust now owns the estate and it is even a National Monument.  The old Cape Dutch style farm house houses a museum which tells the story of the wine farm. Simon van der Stel’s mother was daughter of a freed Indian slave and after him Johannes Colijn, who heralded in the heyday of Vin de Constance in Europe, was also of mixed race.  The exhibition gives a sobering understanding of the part that colonisation and slavery played in the history of the farm and Cape’s wider wine heritage.

An easy drive from Cape Town the history, wine, restaurants and beautiful setting make the estate well worth a visit.

Rose 2022

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc made with minimal grape skin contact. Pale orange pink colour.  Nose of honey dew melon. Nice balance, peachy notes and good freshness.  Easy drinking in the sunshine.

Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Constantia has a reputation for fresh Sauvignon Blanc. Floral nose with elderflower blossom and a touch of grassiness. Again good balance, melon and tropical fruits flavour, fullish body but with freshness.

Chardonnay 2021

Smokey vanilla nose. Lemon, vanilla, spicy wood, full boded mid-level acidity and medium length. Tasty ‘new world’ style.

Gouverneurs Reserve White 2020

A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon partly aged in new oak Barrique.On the nose green pepper, hay, meadow flowers, herbs, tarragon. Fullish body, mid-level acidity, dry herbs, hay, grapefruit pith. Complex with very good length and a lovely citrus persistence.

Lady of Abundance 2018

A red blend of Pinotage, Merlot, Shiraz and Tannat.Mixed macerated red and dark fruit nose. Ripe plum, blackberry, clove and toast favours with soft tannin. Easy drinking.

Merlot 2018

A nose of classic plum and milk chocolate and a whiff of vanilla. Ripe capsicum, red fruit, soft tannins, medium length. Tasty.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Initially mulberry, then a leafy green aroma. Touch of strawberry, dried cranberries. In the mouth more dried fruit, nice chalky tannins, medium body, good acidity. Reasonable length. Give it a year or two and this should round out nicely.

Pinotage 2020

Baked dark plum with ferrous notes and a sprinkle of cake spice. Rounded full body but not flabby, more spicy baked blackberries, finishes with sweet fruit and is quite long.

Shiraz 2019

Plush fine oaky nose, iodine and dried cherry. Good balance and length, dark cherries, hint of blood, good length. Firm tannins sit squarely on the tongue, this should age quite nicely.

Gouverneurs Reserve 2028

A Bordeaux blend. Plums, cedar wood, milk chocolate, nice furniture polish. very Claret like. Mix of red and black fruit, Black Forest Gateaux, great balance and a long savoury finish!  Excellent.

Grand Constance 2017

Made from Muscat d’Frontignan the white Muscat is complemented with a small percentage of red Muscat.

Burnt orange colour. On the nose orange peel, ginger powder, dried apple, cinnamon, cake spices, furniture polish. Lusciously sweet but with enough lift to keep it fresh. A strangely a floral note, rose water or something like that and more dried orange. Very long.

Hemel-en-Aarde

Hemel en Aarde is known for growing Burgundian grapes and is divided into three areas: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, closest to Walker Bay, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley further up the valley and Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge the highest area in terms of altitude.  Each area has different soils and micro-climates.

The received wisdom is that in the lower section clay soils produce broader more structured Pinots, the decomposed granite in the Upper part results in a crunchy, elegant style and due to the altitude and recurrence of some clay the Ridge produces something in between. That said many other wines are also produced here including some crisp Sauvignon Blancs and Rhone blends.

Overall the region’s proximity to Walker Bay, the cold Benguela current as well as the prevailing Southeaster results in a particularly strong cooling maritime influence. Hemel-en-Aarde also has higher than average rainfall.

Hamilton Russell was the first winery in the area, the eponymous owner was looking for land and was attracted by the cooler climate. A risky move back in the 1970s as the vineyards had no quota for wine making under the then restrictive rules and so winemaking was technically illegal. Having planted a wind variety of grapes including Pinot and Chardonnay they eventually restricted wine making to just these two varietals.  The winery has spawned several other neighbouring wineries as successive winemakers have left to set up their own ventures in the valley, these include Buchard Finlayson, Creation and Storm wineries.

The Wine Village, Hermanus.

At the bottom of the valley in the whale watching town of Hermanus is the Wine Village store with is a treasure trove of South African wines and will ship overseas.

Stephen was on the counter and let me taste Hamilton Russell Vineyards’ 2021 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  Both from the Valley were beautiful rich, structured, and perfectly balances wines with lashings of fine oak. Immediately pleasurable for such young wines which for me puts them in the New World but with a level of Burgundian understatement.

Newton Johnson Family Vineyards

Newton Johnson is located in Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley located in a beautiful spot with spectacular views.

Resonance 2019

75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% oaked Semillon. Flinty nose, gooseberry, Semillon gives the wine a nice body, good length with a slight toasty finish. Very nice.

Albariño 2021

The first planting of this grape in SA were here at Newton Johnson. Made 20% in old oak barrels. Floral notes with sea breeze, a nice saline note in the mouth, fresh. A bit more breadth than you would find in a Spanish version but no shortage in bracing acidity.

Family vineyard Pinot Noir 2020. 13.5%

A blend of several vineyards including Sea dragon and Windandsea each bringing different characteristics to the wine. On the nose red soft fruit, some nice vegetal notes. In the mouth sweet fruit, more herbs, delicious rounded body, good freshness, and a lovely long finish.

Full Stop Rock 2020

79% Syrah and the rest Grenache grown in decomposed rocky granite. The wine is aged in 5% new oak barrels and the rest used for18 months. Blackberry, ripe fruit forward nose. In the mouth ripe sandy, rounded tannins, very approachable now. Long.

Granum 2016.

A blend of 75% Syrah and Mouvedre. Darker colour.  Black fruit, meatiness, oxo cubes on the nose. A nice stoniness, more ripe black fruit and savoury notes. Full bodied developing some earthy notes.

Boekenhoutskloof have also started making a Chardonnay and Pinot under their Cap Maritime label from vineyards in the  valley.  See the full review of this winery posted separately.

Wines of South Africa podcasts

Finaly just a quick shout out for the excellent series of podcasts that Jim Clarke and the Wines of South Africa (WOSA) have made. Packed with regional information, interviews with winemakers and some really interesting historical background these and Jim’s book really are essential further reading. To access the podcasts click on the link below.

WOSA Podcasts