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Burgundy en primeur 2013 Berry Brothers & Rudd Tasting

En primeur season is upon us again. BBR host one of the most comprehensive Burgundy tastings which I recently attended with wine brother & Burg aficionado Stuart Grostern.  Stuart’s palate & knowledge of the region is fine & deep so we are delighted to share his detailed tasting notes here as contributing editor. Burgundy Harvest

Tasting notes from the Burgundy 2013 en primeur hosted by Berry Bros & Rudd (BBR), held at One Great George last week Tuesday Jan 13th.

Quite a range of wines on taste, and I arrived early enough to partake in many of the grand cru reds. In summary, the tasting really turned out to be very pleasant, maybe it was a fruit day in the biodynamic calendar, or maybe these wines are just tasting great at this stage. Either way, the vintage is very beautiful and characteristic of place.

For the reds, wines showed beautiful perfume that took you quite immediately to their places of origin. Tannins were fine, with great acidity, ripe fruits, few green flavours and little over extraction. Most of the wines were mid to lighter weight in the villages and premier crus, and concentration is good in places. The Grand Crus showed even more character but in line with expectation, were a little more closed and less forthcoming.

In white, more powerful ripe and concentrated wines have been made, and they felt more like 2010 whereas reds reminded me more of 2007 but with greater fruit. Everything I tasted in white had ripe fruit, strong acidity and varying degrees of concentration that became more pronounced the better the site. On the whole, the whites take this vintage over the reds for depth, concentration and probably relative ageability (meaning the whites will age longer for whites than the reds) but for pure charm and for medium term drinkability, the reds are lovely and many will reward 5 years in cellar. Vosne and Chambolle are the standout appelations in the Cote de Nuits for me. DSC00980

My one complaint is prices but then again, this was not a big vintage. However, despite a strengthening GBP against the Euro, prices are up in the premier and grand cru wines. Villages wines are on par if slightly down year on year. You have to wonder why you would want to buy this vintage in any quantity at the premiers and GC levels given average landed price to consumers for minimum 6 bottles is £50-£70 per bottle for premiers and anything from £80 upwards for GCs?

Here’s the list of wines tasted on the night (42 in total). Generally, my ratings describe nose in first sentence, followed by taste starting with fruit, acidity, tannins, balance, and length. I have arranged by appellation below, (generally) north to south for white, and south to north for reds. Ratings are Good (G), Very Good (VG), Very Very Good (VVG) and Excellent (E) – not very scientific but reflect the overall experience of each from a small tasting pour (with a couple of exceptions where I poured myself). Tasting conducted over the course of 2.5 hours.

WHITES

Dominique Lafon, Bourgogne Blanc Smoky, not showing a lot of fruit. Nothing special. G  

Jean-Phillippe Fichet, Bourgogne Blance Vielles Vignes Heard a lot of people talking about Fichet wines well before I got there. I found out why. Smoky, lemony nose. Super concentrated fruit with honey and mineral notes. Great concentration and depth. VVG

Sylvain Loichet, Ladoix, Les Grechons 1er Cru Apple and mandarin nose, unusual. Good lemon fruit attack and big acidity, medium concentration. VG

Dominique Lafon, Meursault Smoky, sweet lemon nose. Medium weight, good intensity of lemony fruit and high acidity. Very persistent. VG

Jean-Yves Devevey, Meursault Les Vireuils Chalky sweet lemon nose. Sweet fruit, mid weight. Good concentration balanced by acidity. Good length. VG

Bouchard Pere et fils Meursault Les Perrieres 1er cru Green apple, but otherwise closed nose. Intense lemon and mineral with great acidity, concentrated sweet fruit and finish, just hinting about what’s underneath. Very impressive. E     (I bought 6)

Jean-Phillippe Fichet, Meursault Les Gruyaches Super smoky nose, a little unyielding. Very tight, great acidity, very concentrated but hard to taste. Very very long. Wow but not very pleasurable. On feeling, this is VVG.

Jean-Phillippe Fichet Meursault Les Tessons Sulfuric and woody and mineral nose, very intense, a bit gluey and quite typical from the many times I’ve tasted Tessons from other makers. Reassuring. Super concentrated fruit, ripe apples, mineral with a very very long finish. Very impressive. E  

Michel Bouzereau &fils Meursault Les Perrieres 1er cru Lovely nose, light yet concentrated. Acidity very apparent, good concentration but not intense. Very balanced. VG

Patrick Javillier Meursault Les Tillets Subdued nose of lemon and apples. Good acidity and intensity, very nice balance. Good depth and concentration with mineral finish. VVG

Patrick Javillier Meursault Tete de Murger Closed nose, unyielding. Concentrated full mouthful with puckering level of acidity, hints of honey. A full plush, silky wine, very balanced and very long. E

Antoine Jobard Meursault Les Poruzots 1er Cru Big smoky charred nose with lifted white flowers. Very tart acidity dominated at this stage so impossible to taste. VG or better?

Jean-Yves Devevey, Chassagne Montrachet Richer fatter fruit nose, lemon and honey. Tart lemon, high acidity but not very sweet and a little hot. Lingering finish. G

Jean-Noel Gagnard, Chassagne Montrachet le Cailleret 1er cru Pretty white flowers and stone fruit, vanilla and light passion fruit nose. Great fruit concentration, mandarin, apply. Really long. VVG

Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 1er cru Sweet lemon, pure mineral and whiteflower nose. Intense linear lemon fruit, concentrated, great acidity and balance, great elegance. E

Domaine de Montille Puligny Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er cru Lemony fruity nose with mineral. Very intense, tart apple and lemon, mineral and very concentrated. VVG

Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos Blanc de Vougeot 1er cr An unusual offering which I’ve tried in the past, a white from the Cote de Nuits made from very old vines. Sweet fruit, lemon and mineral nose. Wonderful concentrated fruit, very deep but also achieving great balance and a lightness. VVG

REDS

Comte Armand, Volnay Intense floral nose, reminiscent of Barolo including roses and violets. Wonderful balance, mid weight with dark fruit character and good length. VVG

Domaine de Montille, Volnay Taillepieds 1er cru Repressed fruit, cinnamon and pepper nose. Slightly harsh tannins masking fruit. Hard to taste. Not sure.

Benjamin Leroux Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs 1er cru Interesting nose, definitely Volnay perfume with Pommard fruit and some animal essence. Mid weight palate, black fruit, taut acidity and good concentration. Good length. VG  

Comte Armand, Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er cru Dark fruit nose, violets, animal. Strong dark fruit intensity but quite closed. Dryish tannins but good intensity and concentration accompanying the tannins. Long. VVG

Domaine de la Vougeraie Nuits St Georges Clos de Thorey 1er cru Animal, strawberries, spices, vanilla, slightly confected. Lovely lifted fresh sweet cherry fruit, not overly complex but good balance and length. VG JF

Mugnier, Nuits St Georges Clos de la Marechale 1er cru Strong black liquorice and vanilla nose. Dark fruit showing, slightly overripe, or maybe overextracted. Tannins rough. Very concentrated. OK but not to my taste at this stage.

Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits St Georges Les Pruliers 1er cru Lovely perfumed nose of strawberry and roses. Very tannic, slightly harsh but then softened. Good core of fruit, with a medium finish. VG

Domaine AF Gros Vosne Romanee Aux Reas Great perfume, very Vosne with tea, rose, and spices. Very characteristic. Sweet lifted fruit. Mid weight. Lovely and complex already. Beautiful. VVG

Domaine AF Gros Vosne Romanee Maizieres Darker fruit here, savoury, with tea, almost bloody. Tart dark cherry fruit. Good persistence with tannins in check. Very long. E

Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet Vosne Romanee Les Rouges 1er cru Ripe dark fruit, a little jammy and spice nose. Dark, tart but ripe fruit. Refined tannins. Super concentrated, nice persistence and medium length. VG

Domaine Lamarche Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes 1er cru Slight cola, spice, vivid cherry nose. Sweet fruit, vanilla, with intense acidity and very tough tannins. Very intense wine with sour cherry dominant. A lot there. Good length. VVG

Domaine Lamarche Echezeaux grand cru Majestic nose of dark fruit, perfumed roses and plums, tending to black currant. Dark fruit with high acidity, tannins already integrated. Growing intensity in this wine, very balanced with excellent concentration. VVG

Maison Roche de Bellene, Echezeaux grand cru Concentrated grape juice nose, perfumed blackberry and darker alcoholic fruit in abundance. Very balanced, fruit overwhelming acidity but mid palate a little hollow. Medium bodied and length. VG

Domaine Lamarche La Grand Rue grand cru Beguiling nose, super perfumed, the essence of beauty and elegance defined. Very ripe fruit (too ripe?) with blackcurrants and dark cherry. Great balance. Very long and persistent. Very special. E

Domaine Jean Grivot Clos de Vougeot grand cru Dark fruit nose with animal scents. Cherry fruit, with a good core of concentrated materials, quite deep with a long finish. VG

Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot grand cru Very sulfuric nose, with dark cherry and kirsch nose. Sweet brambly fruit but quite closed. Some banana too. Dryish tannins with a darker fruit finish. Good length. VG

Domaine AF Gros Chambolle Musigny Quite dark for a Chambolle. Sulfur and sweet confected strawberry nose, a lovely perfume. Sweet ripe lifted fruit. Very balanced. VVG  

Domaine Michele and Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny Les Cras 1er cru Beautiful floral nose, light strawberry essence. Sweet cherry, good persistence without heaviness leaving a slight bitter aftertaste. Lovely overall and quite complex. VVG  

Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle Musigny Exotic nose with spices and perfume. Slightly sour cherry, Asian spice, some peel character, light ethereal body with a medium finish. VVG  

Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle Musigny Les Baudes 1er cru Initial hint of horseradish (I’ve experienced this in her 2004 Chatelots), strawberry but not giving away much. Sweet strawberry fruit with raspberry. Intensely fresh with beaming acidity and integrated tannins. Quite intense wine. VVG  

Louis Boillot Gevrey Chambertin Assembled from 7 different parcels with average vine age of 60 years. Lovely dark cherry aromas, fresh and perfumed. Sweet cherry, almost lavish with very refined tannins, good acidity and balance. VVG

Louis Boillot Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles Dark and meaty with sandalwood nose. Cherry fruit, tart acidity, giving the cherry a sour edge. Bracing acidity, tannins good, a real mouthful. VG

 Dujac Fils & Pere Gevrey Chambertin Red cherry and cinnamon, with sandalwood nose. Cherry fruit, but woody. Mid weight with good concentration and medium length. G  

Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet Gevrey Chambertin Mes Favorites Lovely mid cherry and strawberry with great perfumed rich nose. Great nose. Fantastic balance of fruit, acidity and tannins. Quite closed but very good persistence into back of throat indicating there is a lot of matter here. Very good length. E  

Benjamin Leroux Gevrey Chamertin Les Champeaux Very perfumed for a Gevrey. Quite closed but dark fruit and grapey character. Tannins ripe and mid weight as well as concentration. Is this Gevrey? G

Stuart posts on the Wine Spectator forum as BirDungy


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Taittinger Wine Dinner review & tasting notes

Kevin McKee of Taittinger proved a marvellous host for our Taittinger Champagne dinner at Fredericks in Islington.  Each champagne played its part to perfection as the evening unfolded from aperitif through to dessert and Kevin entertained and enlightened with equal measure.

Taittinger Brut Reserve NV.

Served in magnum. Fine bubbles with a lovely open nose of stone fruit, pastry, honeysuckle and vanilla. In the mouth wide and long with more chardonnay flavours and great freshness.  As Eric said one glass leads easily onto the next.  This is my kind of champagne fresh enough for a party but with enough going on to keep it interesting in its own right.

image2Les Follies de la Marquetterie.

This is a single vineyard champagne again with a high proportion of Chardonnay blended with Pinot Noir  grown in alternate rows.

On the nose peach, nectarine and floral notes, a touch of crème patissiere quite focused. On the palate a tight core of fruit, apricot then some nice pastry notes from the lees with a long fresh finish.

This was served with a starter of smoked salmon on warm potato blinis with horseradish cream and the bright fruity acidity complimented the rich oily fish beautifully.

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de blancs 2005.

The flagship wine of the house served in a proper wine glass as it should be.

The bouquet of this wine is like walking into a French patisserie a heady mix of pastry, caramel, cream, roasted nuts and perhaps a whiff of nutmeg. Very complex.

On the palate soft and wide crème brulee with a hint of citrus, notes of toffee, enough acidity to lift the finish which lingers very long. Gorgeous! One to be enjoyed on its own.

Domaine Carneros Avant Garde Pinot Noir 2012.

A Californian pinot that is a joint venture with Taittinger and a very useful accompaniment to the herb crusted rack of lamb with pomme fondant.

Lovely ripe red cherry on the nose with some sweet spice and a hint of smoke. Medium body, silky mouth feel and lovely freshness.  More ripe fruit, rhubarb fool on the palate.  Good length a lovely refined pinot.

image4Nocturne Sec NV

Only one gram of sugar over brut so not really sweet but just enough to handle the lemon tart and strawberry sorbet.  Nice and fresh with a slightly steely edge (which may just be the effect of the dessert). Lots of peach and nectarine again very fruit driven but with great freshness too.  Has that extra punch to finish the evening off nicely.

 

Top Tip: If you like the creamy aged complexity of the Comtes its little sibling the brut reserve already has some of these chardonnay driven touches and a year in the cellar  will bring them out even more.


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Bodegas Salentein tasting

Bodegas Salentein  wine tasting at Gaucho Piccadilly 23.09.14Salentein

Salentein Bodegas were pioneers of the Uco valley of Argentina and have 15 vintages under their belt. Chief winemaker José Galante previously of Catena Zapata presented their premium range of wines produced from the bodegas’ three different vineyards, each at different altitudes. San Paulo the highest at 1600m plus producing pinot and chardonnay, La Pampa at 1200 to 1400m and El Oasis at around 1000m. Irrigated with mineral water off the mountain!

Chardonnay Plot no. 2. 2012.
Single vineyard from San Paulo raised in french oak. Restrained nose , some ripe peach and a hint of toast. In the mouth apricots, peaches ripe fruit, luscious mouth feel, a little citrus and some secondary oak. Quite long. great balance medium full bodied. good acidity.

Chardonnay 2012 Primus.
A blend selecting the best from different vineyards also raised in new french oak for 9 months.
On the nose more perfumed with peach & a touch of vanilla. In the mouth intense ripe exotic fruit more vanilla, nice freshness, very long and persistent. High alcohol but great balance, full bodied.

Primus Pinot 2011
Vinification starts with 10 to 15 days of cool maceration and to keep the fruit fresh oxygen is carefully excluded. Aged 9 months in barrels with only 10% new oak.
On the nose strawbery chew, sweet fruit, clean bright fruit, a touch herbaceous. On the palate again red fruit, some cooked fruit, baked tart, herbs, long persistent. medium body, med to high acidity high alcohol but balanced.

Numina Cabernet Franc 2011 Spirit Vineyard.
Lovely delicate raspberry perfume, persistent bit of ripe capsicum . In the mouth again sweet soft red fruit, savoury notes, very long land great freshness. Fantastic.

Malbec Plot 21. 2011.
Single vineyard with sandy soil.
Slightly closed nose, then black fruit a touch of blackcurrant & some baked tart.salentien 2
On the palate: blueberries, blueberry pie, nice freshness and length.

Malbec Primus 2010.
Again a blend of the best from largely stoney ground giving more body and power.
On the nose cocoa powder, sweet ripe blackberry, some spicey woody notes. The same in the mouth with very ripe soft tannins very full bodied, very long, really outstanding.

Salentein Grand VU blend, 2011. 73% malbec 27% cabernet sauvignon with 24 months in oak. Only 6000 bottles made

On the nose black fruit, cocoa powder, coconut, toast complex and lush.
Lovely full bodied, luscious ripe blackberries, a complex fruit compote topped with coconut & cocoa powder, this is a pudding in its self. A rich delicious power house of a wine.

In summary the single vineyard wines are more restrained and probably appeal to those with an old world bias, whereas the Primus ‘blends of the best’ are unapologetic celebrations of ripe fruit & textural richness. Though I loved the Malbec Primus the Numina Cabernet Franc was probably the wine of the tasting for me, embodying the old world qualities of freshness, elegance & structure with the pure fruit clarity of the new.

 

 


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Rioja Wine Journey 2014 – The tasting notes.

Hurray for old school Rioja!  Where else do they produce wine of such a high standard, lovingly nurture and mature it for you and then let you buy it at prices that are a dim and distant memory for most of the other premium wine regions of the world?

Three intensive days of tasting in the region sampled the traditional, the modernists, and the terroir schools of Rioja and whilst there are some fantastic modern 100% Tempranillos and some wonderful terroir driven single vineyard wines it’s very hard to beat wines such as Muga Gran Reserva, any of the Rioja Alta reservas, Cune Imperial & Vina Real for value and shear drinking pleasure.

Muga

Muga Blanco2013

90% Viura & 10% Malvasia raised in new French oak with 3 months lees contact.

Medium acidity fairly full bodied with a slightly oily texture   Peach stone, pastry hint of smoke, lovely long finish. Very good.

Muga Crianza 2010

70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha & 10% Mazuelo & Graciano. 24 months in barrels & 12 months in bottle.

Fruit, vanilla & smoke on the nose. Medium body & acid lovely vanilla, coconut and bags of red fruit, complex. Coco powder like soft tannins. Very long and tasty.  Very very good.

Muga Seleccion Especial 2009.

70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha & 10% Mazuelo & Graciano. 28 months in barrels & 12 months in bottle.

Scented, perfumed nose, intense and lingering. Lovely balance in the mouth, lots of lip smacking savoury flavours with sweet caramel, very rich, very long, excellent.

Muga Gran Reserva Prado Enea 2005.

80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha , Mazuelo & Graciano. A selection of the ripest from each harvest. 36 months in barrels & 36 months in bottle.

A little reluctant on the nose, opens up with spice, sweet strawberry chews, cinnamon, cloves and Xmas spices. On the palate ripe strawberries, orange peel, more complex spices great balance.  Finishing very long with dried orange peel.  Very refined outstanding wine.

Torre Muga 2010

75% Tempranillo,  15% Mazuelo &  10% Graciano.  24 months in barrels & 18 of which in new French oak.

Opaque ruby colour. Perfumed nose, raspberries, very full bodied medium acidity and high tannin but soft and mouth coating, intense red fruit and woody flavours, rather primal at this stage but very long.

 

Roda

Roda Reserva 2008

90% Tempranillo, 4% Garnacha, 6% Graciano. 30 year old bush vines. Aged in 50% new French oak. 16 months in barrel and 20 months cellaring in bottle.

Ruby colour light intensity.

On the nose, cherry & oak, bit of vanilla. Medium body, fresh acidity. More red fruit & cherries with supple tannins and good length. Delicate and fresh.

Roda Reserva I  2007

100% Tempranillo, 30 year old bush vines. Aged in 50% new French oak. 16 months in barrel and 20 months cellaring in bottle.

Deep ruby colour medium intensity.

On the nose, more plumb quite compact and reticent at the moment some mineral and a hint of  oak, Fuller body, more structure than Roda again tight, needs food to bring out the fruit, good length.

During our tour of Roda’s state of the art cellars the wine making philosophy for Roda & Roda I was explained. All the grape types are vilified separately producing 17 vats of different wines.  The wines going into Roda are selected for their freshness & red fruit character and those going into the Roda I blend for their black fruit character.

 

La Rioja Alta

LAGAR DE CERVERA Albariño 2013

D.O Rias Baixas. 100% Albariño, 10& malolactic fermentation, aged on lees.

Pronounced aromas of exotic fruit, mineral with citrus notes. In the mouth fresh acidity more exotic fruit and a nice mineral, saline finish.  Very nice.

ÁSTER CRIANZA 2009

100% Tinta del País. From Ribera del Duero high altitude vineyards aged in new French oak for 22 months.

Dark opaque ruby colour. On the nose dark fruits, coffee, & toast.  In the mouth more dark fruit, nuttiness, coffee and toasted wood.  Nice and fresh with medium well integrated tannins.

ÁSTER FINCA EL OTERO 2009

100% Tinta del País. From Ribera del Duero high altitude vineyards aged in new French oak for 12 months

Dark opaque ruby colour.  A bit closed and unformed on the nose, rather like sticking your nose into a barrel, fruit & charcoal. High acidity, medium to full body, lots of structure. Powerful intense black fruit with spicy. Savoury notes.  Very long.  Excellent potential.

Torre de Oña. Finca San Martín 2011 Crianza

100% Tempranillo from Rioja Alavesa. 16 months in 60% new American oak.

Clear ruby colour. ON the nose red fruit with a touch of vanilla and smoke.  In the mouth more red fruit, strawberries, sweet caramel & some toast.  Tasty.

Torre de Oña Reserva 2009

95% Tempranillo blended with 5% of Mazuelo from Rioja Alavesa. Aged for 20 months in a mixture of new French and older Caucasion barrels.

Dark ruby colour. On the nose red fruit, strawberries, cherries and a layer of toast and spice. On the palate a nice creamy texture, fruit and vanilla, medium length.  Overall very tasty.

La Rioja Alta VIÑA ALBERDI Reserva 2007

100% Tempranillo. Aged for 2 years first in new American oak barrel made Alta’s own cooper. Then bottled in 2010.

Deep ruby colour. On the nose fresh red fruit, then toast, coffee and perhaps a little green pepper. In the mouth nice mouth coating soft tannin, enough freshness and a lovely mix of sweet fruit, and burnt caramel.  Lovely and with plenty of development ahead.

La Rioja Alta VIÑA ARANA Reserva 2005

Tempranillo: 95 %, Mazuelo: 5 %, Aged in Alta’s own American oak barrels of 4 years and the bottled about 5 years ago.

Clear ruby colour. On the nose opening up with candied strawberries, then a complex mix of leather and tobacco and spice. In the mouth medium body, great balance and refinement red fruit, leather, and forest floor in a long finish. This is fantastic stuff! Available at around £17a bottle in the UK this represents outstanding value. Try to hold onto it for a few more years though as it will only improve.

La Rioja Alta VIÑA ARDANZA Reserva 2005

80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha. The grapes vinefied and aged separately for about 3 years and blended and bottled in 2009.

Dark ruby colour beginning to brick on the rim. Ripe concentrated black fruit on the nose, cherry chews, and liquorice.  Where the Arana is elegance and refinement this is sensual and hedonistic. Ripe mixed berries, vanilla, spice and caramel with a silky mouth feel.  Very long and satisfying.  Again an outstanding wine at an outstanding price.

La Rioja Alta GRAN RESERVA 904 2004

90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. Aged 5 years on used American oak barrels then in bottles since 2009.

Clear ruby colour. Slightly reticent nose of red fruit, with savoury sweet vanilla oak & and hints of caramel.  Great balance on the palate with intense fruit, high tannin and great freshness.  Tightly structured with lots of promise. Incredibly long. Post this tasting we had the 2001 904 at dinner which was superb and the wine of the trip for many of us so the 2004 bodes very well.

La Rioja Alta GRAN RESERVA 890 1998

Tempranillo 95%, Graciano 3% and Mazuelo 2%.  After six years aging in American oak barrels a selection of the best are then aged in bottle since then.

Garnet colour brick rim. A complex nose of spice, chalk, candied fruit, cloves, spice and lingering smoke. In the mouth medium body and acidity. Lovely complex meld of orange peel, cloves, tobacco. Very smooth and creamy mouth feel with an extremely long lingering finish.  An extraordinary wine.

The Rioja Alta line up brings home just how much Rioja has to offer in the way of complex aged wines. What a fantastic range of wines from top to bottom. Where else can you buy wines of this standard ready to drink at these prices?

 

CVNE

Cune Gran Reserva Imperial 2007

85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo. All new American & French oak barrels for 2 years followed by 2 more year’s bottle aging.

Medium garnet colour.

Little subdued on the nose, with coaxing light red fruit, charcoal, spices and a touch of liquorice.

Medium body and acidity with soft mouth coating tannin, black cherry, roasted coffee, complex with great balance and a long finish.  Excellent.  Retailing at about £25 per bottle in the UK this a great wine for the price.

 

Contino (part of the CVNE group)

Contino Blanco 2010

Viura: 60 %, Malvasia: 20 %, Garnacha blanca: 20 %. Fermentation is finished in French oak barrels and aged on its lees.

Clear straw colour.

On the nose quite floral, with stone fruits and some spice & wood. In the mouth full bodied lovely mix of stone fruit, pastry and spicy wood with a long creamy textured finish. Delicious! One of Adam’s favourite wines of the trip!

Contino Graciano 2007

100% Graciano. Only produced in the best years aged in French & Hungarian oak for 13 months and bottle aged for a year.

Dark purple colour opaque. Not totally clear but bright.

On the nose, floral, violets, ripe raspberries, touch of wood and a whiff of smoke, then as the wine opens cloves and spices.

On the palate medium body sweet black fruit, very fresh, complex mix of clean fruit, subtle spice and tobacco. Great persistent long finish. Excellent, this wine was just too good to spit!

Contino is unusual in Rioja as it follows the chateau model by only using grapes grown in its own vineyards. Nearly all the main Rioja wineries blend grapes from across multiple vineyards selecting for the reservas & grand reservas by quality and ripeness. In Contino by contrast wine maker Jesús de Madrazo Mateo seeks to express the terrior of the vineyards in his wines. Hence single varietal and single vineyard wines such as Graciano & Olivo.

Vina Real (also part of the CVNE group)

Vina Real Oro 2009 Reserva.

Tempranillo: 90 %, Mazuelo: 3 %, Graciano: 3 %, Garnacha Tinta: 3 %. Vinified in their amazing high tech cellars carved into the hill like a Bond villain’s lair in Rioja Alavesa. Matured in American & French oak for 2 years then in bottle in vast towers of wine under the hill.

Dark intense ruby colour. The nose displays candied strawberries, ripe raspberries and black cherries, subtle notes of leather. Medium body and acid. On the palate more strawberries, sweet spices & earthy touches. A long lingering finish where the firm tannins become apparent. Excellent.

Vina Real Oro 2006 Reserva.

Tempranillo: 90 %, Mazuelo: 3 %, Graciano: 3 %, Garnacha Tinta: 3 %.

Intense ruby colour. A striking nose of strawberries, spice and smoke.  Again medium body with lovely sweet strawberry fruit, baked fruits, savoury leather and forest floor notes. More classic than the 2009.

 

Ysios

Ysios 2007 reserva

100% Tempranillo, aged in 50% new oak mainly French.

Dark ruby opaque. Very slightly cloudy. On the nose a bit reticent, some strawberry, red fruit then coffee notes. In the mouth fresh, medium body, more red fruit & a nice mineral zing. Opens up with time. Very good.

Ysios Edicion Limitada 2009.

100% Tempranillo, aged in 75% new oak mainly French. Bottled in a very heavy opaque black bottle.

Dark purple opaque colour. Intense nose of ripe dark fruit, ripe black berries then liquorice, balsamic vinegar and spice.

Medium body, medium towards high acidity and high tannin. Concentrated with more sweet blackberry and spice.   A big modern style wine with slight alcohol buzz. Excellent.

Bodegas Ysios is also a chateau style winery (Calatrava’s amazing winery fulfils the role of modern chateau nicely) making boutique wines from its own grapes.


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Wine Faults

Imbibe wasn’t all about imbibing at Olympia this week.

There was a serious amount of education , including  excellent presentations on Wine Faults and Wine and food matching.

The main wine faults include –

1) Oxidation , which can cause the formation of

ACETALDEHYDES –sherry character

ETHYL-ACETATE-nail polish aroma

ACETIC ACID- vinegar nose

2) Reduction, from too little Oxygen –

poor nose ,cabbage unpleasant.

Also lack of Nitrogen stresses fermenting yeast resulting in Hydrogen Sulphide formation which can give rubber and rotten egg aromas.

3) IPMP (2 isopropyl 3 methoxy d3 pyrazine )

Green pepper/ capsicum aromas

4) Anisoles , flat dead wines ,cardboard .(As little as 1 Nanogram detectable!)

TBA from wood preservatives,pesticides

TCA and TeCA from microbes in the cork

5) Brettanomyces  , Yeast can develop in barrels, which can produce

4Ethylphenol-  dirty nappy,band aid horsebox aroma

4Ethylguaiacol-bacon ,spice,clove ,smoke ,leather aromas

 

6) Geosmin (Jos-min) earthy ,beetroot , aroma after rainfall on soil (petrichor)

A Terpene made by Streptomyces bacteria.

 

After a serious 45 minutes of information it was time for the real fun ..Absinthe , Creme de Cassis , Artisan beers , Pure Vodkas and general amazement of everything on display !

I recommend 2 days at Imbibe next year.


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Bordeaux Noughtie Tasting

Date – February 13th 7.30 Pm , Highgate

The first BYO format tasting and certainly not the last.

As usual all wines (12 in all) were served blind but with the twist of putting the person who brought the wine in the driving seat. They were invited to present the wine, share critic reviews, their own experience of the wine and to lay a trial of tantalising clues for the assembled tasters.  Lots of entertaining discussion and great fun for all.

A lovely selection with a predominant Left Bank theme but some delightful elegant Pomerol’s including Lafleur and Vieux Chateau Certain.

Educational as ever this format really focuses on issues such as quality, drinking pleasure, value, winery reputation and vintage.  For me, surprise of the night – how well many of the 2002s were drinking in spite of the vintage’s poor reputation, confirmation of the night – just how much pleasure a ‘comparatively good value’ wine like Grand Puy-Lacoste reaching maturity from a good year like 2000 can give!

Thanks to all who attended for generously bringing such a great selection of wines and of course to the Kellys for hosting once again in their wonderful dining room.

Started with Bollinger , Louis Roederer . Delighted to have in attendance , UK Champagne Ambassador, Tim Hall of Scala Wines

Tasting Notes  courtesy of Tim Hall  Scala Wines

1) Chateau Leoville Barton , St Julien 2002

St Julien, 2nd growth 1855, 72CS, 20M, 8CF

Garnet-deep; maturing edge. Intense ripe aroma, lots of new oak; svelte and classy.  Some chewy dry tannin on the end. Dense but lean bodied spare-fleshed.  Impressive elegant wine. Thought Left Bank (LB) 04.  Not fleshy enough for a great year.

2) Chateau Phelan Segur 2005

St Estephe, Cru Bougeois (when this made) but now with break-away group and boycotting the classification.  55CS, 45M

Deep core; touch of brick. Cream and slight vanilla and varnish nose; high char oak, perhaps a bit dolled up. Astringent dry tannin on the end.  Good wine, trying very hard, perhaps a bit much. Thought LB 04.

3) Chateau Charmail 2000

Haut-Medoc, Cru Bougeois, 48M, 30CS, 20CF, 2PV

Deep core. Some age on the rim, quite tiled. Touch green on nose,  not wholly ripe fruit.  Meaty, savoury, quite evolved. Needs drinking. Rather austere.

4) Chateau Pontet-Canet 2001

Pauillac, 5th growth 1855.  62CS, 32M, 5CF, 1PV

Deep core; some orange bricking. Very seductive big hit of exotic dried peel and new oak, gloriously met with pressing red berry fruit. Very classy indeed.  Succulent, medium weight but not fat, great finesse.  Thought Paulliac 05 and thrilled this property made such q good wine in this mediocre year.  Top wine of the night for me.

5) Chateau Talbot 2003

St Julien, 4th growth 1855.  66CS, 26M, 8PV

Mid-deep. Quite a rim. Sweet nose, gorgeous and opulent; Christmas cake. Round, big, soft tannin. Lots of new oak.  A big hug of a wine. Tasty and seductive. Considered right bank (RB). Forgot 2003 made such plump soft wine on the LB in this warm year. I would get on with this.

6) Chateau Lafleur 2004

Pomerol, with a great reputation.  50M, 50CF

Deep core; brick rim. Very drying tannin on end. But candied peel and fig full fruit, yet a mild green component too. Complex and tantalising jostle of elements. Not completely harmonious but opened beautifully in the glass. Does this need more time?  Impressive.

Boeuf Bourguignon , baked camembert

7) Vieux Chateau Certan 2002

Pomerol, a very high ranker. 60M, 30CF, 10CS

Deep core, wideish rim.  Very spicy nose, cumin and pencil shavings; classy integrated oak.  Medium intensity yet reticent and a bit passive on the mid-palate.  Softish but ultra charming.  A good long carry  to the end, leaving moss and cinnamon and red cherry notes.  Drinking well, no need to keep longer but good for a few years.

8) Chateau Senejac 2002

 Haut Medoc, Cru Bourgeois when this made, but not now.  48CS, 37M, 11CF, 4PV

Mid-pale, broad rim.  Very sweetish fruit nose and extraction but pretty evolved and a green streak going through, in fact herbaceous but forgiven by a residue of fruit brightness.  Pleasant enough, perhaps better a few years ago. Upright, four-square and needs drinking up.

9)Léoville-Lascases 2002

St Julien, 2nd growth 1855.  65CS, 24M, 10CF 1PV

dense.  Evidently a light version of a tip top property, with cedar, coffee and a whole gamut black fruit and spicy but reticent oak. Stately stuff.

10) Grand Puy -Lacoste 2000

Pauillac, 5th growth 1855.  75CS, 20M, 5CF

Deepish purple, quite open with charming easy and open fruit and spice.  Mellifluous, succulent and serious.  Medium range stuff, in middle age, but good poise and all still holding together.  Delicious.

11)Yon-Figeac 2002

St Emilion, Grand Cru Classé  80M, 20CF

Mid-colour, wide core, pretty evolved and slightly unfocused.  But oh so supple and drinkable in its roundness and green plum and currant cake character.  A savoury note that made it attractive and not too loose-limbed.   Nice RB contrast to prior LB wine.

12)Vieux Chateau Gaubert 2006

Graves AOC.  50M, 50CS

Medium colour and orange rim. Fruit left but losing it to the structure so finishing a little austere and dry. But much good fruity weight. Fairly short range wine, pleasant, not enough chewy intensity for old bones.  Drink now.

Raymond Blanc’s Tarte Aux Pommes

Doisy-Daene 2005    

Sauternes, 2nd growth 1855 (although divided since then) 86S, 14SB

A lovely muscovado sweetness but then complexity of hay and tobacco on the nose.  Quite a hit and then light, gorgeous botrytic note. Very fresh and lightly-poised and not cloying.  Excellent and stylish.

And all finished off with Tim’s excellent Champagne Lacourte-Godbillon Brut NV , full details of where to get this will be mailed out .

 


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Ten Years of Craggy Range Te Muna Road Pinot Noir

The line up

The line up

What a privilege to be invited to this vertical tasting of the very first ten vintages of the Te Muna vineyard Pinots.  Located in Martinborough on the southern tip of the North island Steve Smith MW feels that this is the home of pinot in NZ with its unique terroir of old cracked and fissured stones.

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The great Smithy in action

A fascinating tasting on several levels. One doesn’t often get to taste older vintages of New World wines party as this vertical demonstrates because often only a limited number of vintages exist, (although having recently tasted Aussie Shiraz from 100 year old wines this is not always the case)  and partly because older vintages are simply not available in the market.

This vertical told a story of a new vineyard developing over time, as the vines mature the vineyard’s character is revealed.  From 2002 to 2005 the wines showed more evolved vegetal and earthy characteristics the 05 particularly tasty.  I liked the 07 but this was from a tough year with low yield so perhaps uncharacteristic.  08 to 11 showed more consistent purity of fruit, mineral back bone and an increasingly perfumed characteristic.

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Amongst the great & the good of the wine world

 

I loved these wines which have to be some of the best value fine Pinots in the world.


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Bordeaux Index New World Tasting

The first of hopefully many more tastings featuring over 100 fine wines exclusively from the ‘New Word’.

Overall impressed by some great examples of fresh and refined wines coming out of Australia, skipped the New Zealand wines as I am such a big fan already (Craggy Range in particular  not considered for being too good!) and unfortunately didn’t have time for the South African.  Highlights included:

Most extraordinary wine:

The Laird (Shiraz) 2008, Torbreck, Barossa Valley, Australia.  Made from vines over 100 years old, pre-phylloxera at extremely low yields. This wine was dark and inky with an incredibly persistent nose of rich Xmas cake. In the mouth a texture and complexity reminiscent of a Pedro Ximenez solero but not so sweet but a bit like a dessert. Long intense finish.  Amazing with a price to match!

Most seductive wine:

Catena Zapata, Malbec Argentino 09. A blend of two vineyards, characteristic malbec plumbs and berries and a bit of toast & coffee on the nose, then wow! A delicious blend of fruit, coffee, chocolate and creaminess in the mouth, luscious and so easy.

Best value:

Torn between Chapoutier’s Tournon Shays Flat Shiraz 11 from Victoria, Australia where the nights are cool giving lovely fresh clean fruit, very good and Au Bon Climat, Wild Boy Chardonnay 10, made in a non-interventionist way again really fresh, zesty citric notes, intense and age worthy.

http://www.bordeauxindex.com/blog.php?id=284

 


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M. Chapoutier Tasting in Tain l’Hermitage May 17th 2013

Tasting Notes courtesy of our travelling sommelier Mr Stuart Grostern

Hosted by the lovely Nelly France, export director for M Chapoutier for UK and Australia and New Zealand. As we progressed it became obvious but Nelly clarified that Michel likes to make his wines mostly from 100% single varietals. We began to run out of time just towards the Monier de la Sizerannes so my notes were abbreviated. Not much attention paid to colour of the wines in the notes.

A truly memorable and special tasting. Thank you to Michel and Nelly for being such wonderful hosts.

Mirabel 2012, vins de pays de Coteaux de l’Ardeche

 100% ViognierFresh, mineral and stone, pure floral almost grapefruity nose. Palate had great balance with acidity there. Rich but not overwhelmingly so. Medium to long finish.Very good.

Invitare  2011, Condrieu

 100% Viognier Initial hint of sea shells and sea, with saline character, which I found incredible. Flowers and peaches emerge after a time. Lovely peachy sweetness, with pears and a hint of vanilla. Medium to short in length. Good, perhaps young.

Petite Ruche 2011, Crozes Hermitage blanc

 100% Marsanne, stainless steel ageing. Apricot, baked apple, stones, licorice, spices including pepper. Great nose. Fat a round in the mouth, good fruit. Very good.

Hongrie 2011, Saint-Peray

 100% Marsanne from old vines Oak aged. Baked apples, vanilla, butter, peppery and spicy nose. Very interesting. Hotter and broader as it settles on the palate. Medium to long finish. Very good.

 Chant-Alouette 2011, Hermitage blanc

100% Marsanne 10-12 months in oak. Smokey mineral, spice and vanilla nose. Sweet pear, honey, spices with great balance and fantastic length. Slightly drying on the finish. Very very good.

Ermitage de l’Oree 2006, Hermitage blanc

100% Marsanne.Now we’re really talking! Waxy nose, with high toned chemical, citrus and apricot fruit underneath, roses, almonds nose.  Big heady waxy, coating the mouth, with savoury, chewy flavours, slightly bitter edge in the aftertaste balancing it out. Great acidity leaving fantastic balance, perfectly integrated. Very long. Excellent.

 La Bernardine 2012, Chateauneuf de Pape

 100% Grenache.Fresh strawberries, garrigue, oregano, licorice, very elegant lifted nose. Tannic and drying in the mouth, dark cherry. Good acidity and balance, beautiful wine. Very long. Very very good.

Barbe Rac 2012, Chateauneuf de Pape

 100% Grenache, barrel sample, not yet bottled.Confected strawberry, dark spicey meaty and herbal nose. Powerful and intriguing.

Ripe strawberry, licorice, dark and brooding fruit, super concentrated but locked up given its age. Great balance and incredible length. Amazing.

Les Granilites 2011, St Joseph

 100% Syrah,Pepper, stones, animal, red berries and gunpowder on the nose. Drying tannins but concentrated red currant taste. Long finish. Very very good.

Les Meysonniers 2011, Crozes Hermitage

100% Syrah.Dark purple colour. Floral (Violets?), animal, reminiscent of cote de nuits/gevrey, light and lifted high tones. Bright red fruits, not overly complex but well balanced and lovely.  Medium finish. Very good

Les Arenes 2010, Cornas

 100% Syrah.Dark chocolate, wet animal fur, spice, flowers, granite, cherries, more spices, licorice.  Great nose. Good tannins, excellent balance with concentrated bright red fruits. Lovely long finish. Very very good.

Les Arenes 2009, Cornas

100% Syrah.Dark cherry nose with spices. Riper broader palate, locked up flavours with plenty of materials there. Very long. Will be incredible in 5+ years, with huge length. Excellent

Les Becasses 2010, Cote Rotie

 100% Syrah.Lifted spicy syrah nose, violets, sweet ripe fruits, ripe blackberries. Fine dry tannins, savoury and complex palate, with great balance. Really interesting and long. Great.

La Mordoree 2010, Cote Rotie

100% Syrah made from a single block on the Cote Brun.Smokey bacon, sweet caramel, garrigue, vanilla, licorice, spices and sweet ripe blackberry. Strong fine tannins, amazing concentration  of purple fruits. Long finish. Fantastic, Amazing!

Monier de la Sizeranne 2010, Hermitage

100% Syrah.Roasted coffee, lifted animal nose. Fine tannins, red and black currants, really concentrated, excellent balance. Very long. Great.

Monier de la Sizeranne 2009, Hermitage

100% Syrah.Riper than the 2010 on the nose, darker and more concentrated. Running out of time at this stage – I wrote – Crazy wine, will be great in 10+ years – so I guess that makes it amazing!

Monier de la Sizeranne 2008, Hermitage

100% Syrah.Starts with red fruit, lifted aromas, some cough medicine. Tannins balanced and ripe, med to long finish. Very good.

Monier de la Sizeranne 2007, Hermitage

100% Syrah.Animal, earth, spices, licorice, flowers, granite, red fruit, spices. Amazing concentration of fruit, great balance, and very long. Excellent!


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Maison Jaboulet Aîné, The wines of the northern Rhone tasting 23rd May 2013

Tasting a range of the wines of Northern Rhone the overall delicacy and freshness of these wines comes across with several great recent vintages there are great wines to be found at every level.

Hosted by Marie Cordonier of Maison Jaboulet Aîné and attended by Marcel Orford Williams, chief buyer of the Wine Society & fellow  Crouch End resident.

Bistro Aix, Crouch End

La Chapelle

La Chapelle

The wines:

Le Grand Pompee St Joseph Blanc 2010 Approx price: £14

Served as an aperitif. Nice floral nose, good creamy texture in the mouth, great balance and good length. 100% Marsanne. Lovely.

Condrieu Les Grands Amandiers 2008 (Viognier) Approx price: £43

Smokey nose, peaches lurking underneath, more oily texture, stone fruit, medium length. We tasted the 2010 at Maison Jaboulet in Tain L’Hermitage which was floral and fruity and had greater freshness.

Hermitage Le Chevailier de Sterimberg 2008 Approx price: £44

Served together with the H Sterimberg with pate starter.

Named  after the knight crusader Gaspard de Sterimberg who established a hermitage on the hill. This blend of approx. 70% marsanne and 30% rousanne is sensational.  A compact and concentrated nose of pear flesh with a whiff of wood, on the palate again tight complex flavours mixing fruit and nuttiness: apricot stones. This wine has a beautiful mouth feel and great length, still a baby.  At Maison Jaboulet in Tain L’Hermitage we tasted the 2010 which was even more concentrated, had more vigour and freshness and delicious note.  One of the wines of the trip Excellent!

St Joseph Le Grand Pompee Rouge 2010 Approx price: £15

Nice fruity peppery nose, sweet black fruit, savoury notes emerging, medium body, more fruit great lift and freshness, reasonably sustained.  This is good now but with a few years in bottle will fill out with more savoury substance.  From granite soils.  Great value from a great year.   All the 2010 wines we tasted on our trip were stunning with great clean fruit, balance and freshness.  Marcel also felt that one could hardly go wrong buying this vintage.

Cornas Grandes Terrasses: 2009 Approx price: £27

Served with Confit de Canard main course.

Decanted for about an hour this delicious fruit driven wine had a nose of really ripe blackberry with a touch of chocolate almost new world in its exuberance. Concentrated in the mouth packed with more sweet fruit, powerful, plenty of good tannin and enough balance. 2009 was another great year but riper and this has a good future.

Croze Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2007 Approx price: £23

A long standing favourite of mine this Croze is special.  Marcel explained that it is one of the oldest vineyards in the area, established by Jaboulet and pre-dating the appellation. Although received wisdom is that Croze from the hilly area north of Hermitage is generally the best this vineyard on the plain consistently produces very fine wine because of a subtle elevation and difference in soil make up.  Whatever the reason I love it and have found that it is best to forget about it for at least 6 – 7 years at which point it begins to sing.

The 2007 is approachable now with nice fruit reflecting yet another good year in the Rhone (though more so in the south). I would still tuck this away for another couple of years though and have resisted opening any bottled of my case bought EP from the Wine Society.

Served side by side with the Cornas the contrast is clear this is all elegance and restraint in comparison to the exuberance of the Cornas. Black cherry, touch of coffee, white pepper on the nose, still a little tight on the palate but then more black fruit, spice and characteristic great vigour from the acidity, medium long.  Promises wonderful drinking.  (currently10% discount at Bibendum)

Hermitage La Petite Chapelle 2007 Approx price: £60

In Tain this was a little closed by having been decanted for a couple of hours it was much more expressive. Served blind with the Chapelle 01 it was fairly clear which was the more youth full wine. Nice fruit on the nose, a scented nose with whiff of flowers and savoury notes underneath. Lots going on in the mouth, really fresh sweet fruit, savoury note making a vibrant mix, long and exciting.  A super wine which will no doubt develop beautifully.

Hermitage La Chapelle 2001 Approx price: £94

On the nose, more mushroom, earth and secondary flavours but still with baked fruit tart sweetness.  On the palate amazing bright acidity and plenty of spicy fruit. Tastes a lot younger than the bouquet even though it is 12 years old. Marcel says this was a tannic year that has taken a long time to come around but it now is coming into its own.

Hermitage La Chapelle 1991

An amazing treat brought by Marcel to share with us.  And what a demonstration in what Hermitage is all about.  Marcel feels that the true expression of Hermitage is a blend of the different vineyards (Michel Chapoutier would disagree but diversity of opinion is the spice of life) and La Chapelle is mostly from Le Meal which produces riper more opulent fruit with some wine from Le Bessards which is more tannic and structured.

This wine at over 22 years is from a very good vintage overshadowed by the 1990 and 1989 vintages. Decanted for about half an hour un-agitated the nose begins as sweet celery sticks then a little soy sauce.  With air a world of aromas opens up each arriving hot on the heels of the other in that way that complex great wines have of continually giving more and more: confit de canard, candied fruits, horse leather, orange peel, oriental spices, baked blackberry pie all this in the mouth too but with great core of freshness and a salty tang. Amazing persistence and vigour, hauntingly lingering in the mouth.  Some wines cerebral and others sensual this is both, simply outstanding.

Thanks to Marie Cordonier of Maison Jaboulet for helping to organise the evening and being such a great host.

Also big thanks to Marcel Orford Williams (Wine Society) for sharing his knowledge to give such detail and colour to the evening and also for sharing this wonderful wine.

Finally we were as always well looked after by the team at http://www.bistroaix.co.uk/ serving delicious french cuisine.

These and other wines of Maison Jaboulet are available at: www.thewinesociety.com

And http://www.bibendumfinewine.com/retail