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More than Grüner: other Austrian white varieties.

Grüner Veltliner has found its way onto many a restaurant wine list, supermarket shelf and specialist merchant worldwide and I am a long term fan of all the different expressions that the Winzers of Austria capably produce, from crisp easy drinking summer wines to structured treasures that bloom after a decade or two in the cellar.

But what about the other indigenous and traditional white grape varieties that Austria has to offer?  Well there are plenty including the following:

  • Welschriesling (confusingly not related to Riesling, makes easy drinking dry whites but comes into its own on the humid shores of the Neusiedlersee where its thin skins invite noble rot and where superb sweet wines are made).
  • Weissburgunder (although it is white it is not Chardonnay but actually Pinot Blanc probably originating in Burgundy).
  • Neuburger (a natural crossing of Roter Veltliner and Sylvaner).
  • Gelber and Roter Muskateller (an aromatic and ancient variety).
  • Frühroter Veltliner (another natural crossing of Roter Veltliner and Sylvaner).
  • Traminer (Savagnin): Roter Traminer, Gewürtztraminer and Gelbe Traminer (Named after the Tyrolian town on Tramin and coming in red, pink and yellow hued grapes respectively).
  • Bouvier (A cultivated crossing between Gelber Muskateller and Pinot Blanc).
  • Roter Veltliner (parent of many other but not Grüner Veltliner!).
  • Rotgipfler (Natural crossing between Roter Veltliner and Traminer).
  • Zierfandler/ Spätrot (Another natural crossing between Roter Veltliner and one of the Traminers).
  • Sylvaner/ Grüner Sylvaner (Actually an autochthonous (I know not enough vowels surely!, basically means originating from the place or indigenous) variety that made its way from Austria to Germany and Alsace but plantings have all but disappeared in its home land pushed aside by easier to grow Grüner Veltliner).

Over the last year I have been expanding my horizons by seeking out three of these in particular.

Roter Veltliner

Historically grown in Kamptal, Wagram and Kremstal often as part of a field blend this variety was largely uprooted in the 1950s and 60s as part of a shift to single varietal vineyards.  The grape is challenging to grow being prone to frost, botrytis and mould das it ripens late. Grüner Veltliner by contrast is hardier and ripens earlier and so was the favoured variety for replanting and now accounts for over 30% of all area under vine.  

Roter Veltliner has continued to dwindle over the last couple of decades but, according to Jospeh Mantler of family Weingut Mantlerhof in Kremstal who wrote a dissertation on the variety, is making something of a resurgence as a single varietal wine.

As the climate has changed hazards such as drought, sunburn and heat stress are becoming as important if not more so than frost and fungal diseases.  It turns out that Roter Veltliner handles lack of water and heat rather well and the natural reddish pink colour of the skins means it doesn’t have to reach for the factor 50 in the sun.

So what are the wines like? The wines are not aromatic but have subtle orchard fruit, herbal and sweet root vegetable aromas. They have a broad textured mouth feel and whilst fresh have  soft acidity making them a great contrast to Grüner Veltliner.  There are two broad wine making approaches: a high yield, easy drinking style and a more concentrated textured and age worthy style that requires several passes of the vineyard to pick the grapes at optimum ripeness.

Weingut Leth of Wagram makes both styles. Their Roter Veltliner Fells Klassik 2023 has muted aromas of apple, pear, dried herbs and a touch of sweet spice. On the palate it is quite textured but with nice freshness. A nice uncomplicated partner to richer Austrian or Asian dishes.

Weingut Mantlerhof only make a reserve style from a single vineyard.  The Roter Veltliner Ried Gedersdorfer Reisenthal 2023 has notes of ripe yellow apple, pear, celeriac, parsnip and white pepper. In the mouth its actually just off dry which balances the acidity, there is a creamy mouth feel and a long persistent finish.  Joseph recommends bottle aging this wine to allow it to develop more notes of spice and dried fruit.

Rotgipfler & Zierfandler

These two varieties are largely grown in the Thermenregion particularly around Gumpoldskirchen on the hillsides of the Wienerwald just south of Vienna. The area’s volcanic springs were popular with the Romans and so of course wine has been grown there ever since. It’s a little warmer than the other parts of Niederösterreich but not as warm as Burgendland to the east.

Rotgipfler is made as a single variety but also often blended with Zierfandler for balance as it retains more acidity when ripe.  Both display some of aromatic and tropical fruit Traminer characteristics and both are textural and full bodied with sweet spicy notes.  Late harvested Zierfandler is also used to make sweet wines. High quality examples apparently mature well in bottle.

Stift Klosterneuburg’s 2023 Cuvee Gumpoldskirchen is a blend of both.  Ripe tropical fruit on the nose, with banana, cinnamon and cake spices. The body is full and alcohol high, off dry but balanced with a nice long finish.

Familie Reinish Gumpoldskirchner Tradition 2022. Also a blend. Exotic, ripe stone and tropical fruit salad with sweet spices on the nose. Rich creamy mouth feel, some sweetness but overall manages to be remain fresh with a long finish.

Do try these varieties when you come across them!

AustrianWine.com has an excellent website packed full of useful information on the wines and regions and vineyards. It also provides super regional maps and contact details for wineries for when you visit. The featured image above is a photo of a great summary fact sheet provided by the association at a recent tasting in London.


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Tuscan Sangiovese

Sangiovese is the most widely planted grape variety in Italy, known for its adaptability and quality potential. It is an early-budding, late-ripening vine that is vigorous and high-yielding, often requiring green harvesting to control crop load for better quality. It performs best on south to southeast-facing slopes at cooler higher elevations ( 200 + meters) which help extend the ripening period. It thrives in the classic Galestro found in Tuscany arguably the home of this grape variety.

It forms the backbone of Chianti, where it must make up at least 70% of the blend, and Chianti Classico, where the minimum is 80%. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano also relies heavily on Sangiovese but in Brunello di Montalcino the wines are 100% Sangiovese producing powerful, long-lived wines.

This contrast between 100% Sangiovese wines and blends was brought home to me recently when advising on the selection of northern Italian wines for a wedding. I was struck by how sensitive Sangiovese wines are to the addition of even quite small amounts of other varieties. Canaiolo and Colorino are the classic varieties added for florality and deeper colour in Chianti Classico. These obviously change the aromatics a bit and the colour.  However when international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are added that delicate sour cherry and chalky character of Sangiovese seems to disappear.

Given the quantity of the grape grown in Italy it is perhaps not a surprise, it can’t all be grown on these ideal sites and so blending is obviously a useful way of filling in gaps and completing a wine at a certain price point. And there really are some great reasonably priced wines from Tuscany.


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The Ahr: Germany’s Northern Jewel for Spätburgunder

At a recent Wine Barn tasting who have an outstanding portfolio of German wines I was again struck by the magical Spätburgunder wines coming from the Ahr region.

Tucked away in western Germany, the Ahr wine region is a remarkable anomaly in a country renowned for its white wines. Situated at over 50 degrees latitude, it is Germany’s northernmost wine-growing region. Despite its cool, continental climate, the Ahr defies expectations by producing predominantly red wines, a rarity in such northerly latitudes.

The region’s distinctive geography plays a key role in its success. The Ahr River carves a narrow, winding valley, creating a natural amphitheatre that shields the vineyards from cold winds. Steep, south-facing slopes maximize sun exposure, allowing grapes to ripen fully despite the cool conditions. The vineyards are planted on dark slate and volcanic soils, which absorb and radiate heat, aiding in grape maturation and lending a subtle mineral character to the wines.

The Ahr is renowned for its Spätburgunder (the German name for Pinot Noir), which thrives in the region’s unique microclimate. These wines are elegant and expressive, with bright red fruit flavours, delicate spice, and earthy undertones. The slate soils impart a signature minerality, giving the wines remarkable finesse and aging potential.

I loved the full range of wines of Weingut Meyer-Näkel. In particular the Sonnenberg Spätburgunder Grand Cru was superbly perfumed, with a concentrated fruit core with spicey savoury notes and tremendous length.

Sadly the region is small with just over 550 hectares of vineyards and so the production is also limited.  Although the wines are generally premium for the quality compared to the prices that red Burgundy commands they represent value.


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Washington State Wine

Although most of the wine produced in Washington State is sold locally it was great to see the wines on show in London at the Pacific Peaks and Vines ‘The best of Washington State and Oregan wines’ tasting.

Washington State is the second largest wine producing region after California in the USA offering a wide range of wine styles and grape varieties. Situated in the Pacific Northwest, it has over 1,000 wineries and very large areas of vineyards.

The majority of the state’s vineyards are located east of the Cascade Mountains, where the range creates a rain shadow effect, resulting in a dry, strongly continental climate. This region enjoys long, sunny days and cool nights, ideal conditions for achieving full grape ripeness while retaining acidity. The topography includes flat areas and hillside slopes and there are a range of soil types including volcanic ash, sand and silt and glacial sediment. In this dry climate drip irrigation is often used.

Washington is home to 20 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), with the Columbia Valley being the largest and most significant. This AVA encompasses several renowned sub-regions including Waluke Slope AVA, Yakima Valley AVA, Red Mountain AVA and the fabulously named Horse heaven AVA and Rattlesnake Hills (known for high altitude Rieslings).:

Washington State’s vineyards are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, the region’s signature grape, known for its bold, fruit-forward profile and aging potential. Other key varietals include Merlot which has suffered in popularity worldwide, Syrah and Riesling.

Chateau Ste. Michelle founded in 1934 is the state’s largest and most recognized winery producing half of all the wines. The Chateau St Michelle Riesling which is off dry is according to the winery most consumed Riesling in the world!


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An advocate for Sylvaner: Thomas Larmoyer of Soil Therapy, Alsace.

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Choosing the next NYN Wine Co Vinho Verde Blend

Alex and Manuel cofounders of The Not Yet Named Wine Co hosted an event recently which asl always put subscriber participation at the heart of their next bonus Vinho Verde wine release.

The very first wine that NYNW made was an Alvarinho from Vinho Verde made at Quinta de Soalheiro. Now they are making a bonus Vinho Verde with VineVinu which is Manuel’s family winery.

A bit of background on the region before revealing how the evening went.

Situated in the northwest of Portugal, the Vinho Verde region is renowned for its fresh, aromatic wines. Its location between the Atlantic Ocean to the west and mountain ranges to the east creates a moderate maritime climate, ideal for grape growing. The Atlantic’s cooling influence brings humidity and gentle breezes, while the mountains provide shelter from harsher inland weather. The region is further shaped by its river valleys, including the Minho, Lima, and Dour, which connect the coast to the interior, creating diverse microclimates and promoting balanced grape ripening.

Vinho Verde is best known for its white wine blends, crafted from native grape varieties that thrive in the region’s cool, damp conditions. The main grapes include:

  • Loureiro – Floral and fragrant, with aromas of citrus blossom and green apple.
  • Alvarinho ( same as Alborino grown in Rias Biaxas just to the north) – Known for its structure and elegance, offering notes of peach, citrus, and minerality.
  • Pederna (also called Arinto) – Crisp and zesty, contributing bright acidity and citrus flavors.
  • Avesso – Richer and fuller-bodied, with stone fruit notes and a creamy texture.
  • Trajadura – Delicate and fresh, adding subtle orchard fruit flavors and softness to blends.
  • Maria Gomes (known as Fernão Pires elsewhere) – Aromatic and fruity, with notes of citrus, tropical fruit, and subtle spice.

While most Vinho Verde wines are blends, the Monção and Melgaço sub-region produces 100% Alvarinho wines.

On the evening we were presented with three blends. Each was based on Alvarinho and Loureiro with varying additions of Arinto and Maria Gomes.

We were not told what the blends were but served the wines blind to taste.  Everyone then voted for their favourite and runner up blend.

The winning blend was then announced based strictly on receiving the most votes and will go on sale in the summer!

A fun and interesting experience and I would definitely recommend subscribing to NYNW as its both fun and educational. 

Was it the best wine? Well lets just say it was obviously the crowd pleaser!


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If you like Pinot Noir try Beaujolais Crus

This is a piece of advice that I’ve often been given over the years but have normally been disappointed when taken until recently.

In our last blinders Stuart and I were convinced that a wine Adam had brought was a pinot noir. Not only that but one with concentrated fruit, spice, savoury notes, lifted aromatics and aging potential.  Too savoury probably to be a new world example and perhaps not concentrates enough to be Central Otago so quite possibly a very good village Burgundy.

Well it turned out to the a Morgon Beaujolais Cru!

Situated just south of Burgundy, the Beaujolais wine region is renowned for its Gamay-based wines, offering a range of styles from light and fruity to complex and age-worthy. The region’s climate is semi-continental, with warm summers and cool winters, creating ideal conditions for grape cultivation.

Beaujolais’ landscape is defined by rolling hills and diverse soils, which significantly influence wine quality. The northern part is home to the Beaujolais Crus, where vineyards are planted on granite and schist slopes, producing more structured and complex wines. Notable Crus include Moulin-à-Vent and Morgon, known for their aging potential and Burgundian finesse. In contrast, the southern part of the region is flatter, with more fertile clay-limestone soils. This area produces Beaujolais AOC and Beaujolais-Villages wines, which are typically lighter and designed for early drinking.

Most Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages wines are made using semi-carbonic maceration, a technique that enhances the wine’s fruitiness and freshness. Whole grape clusters are placed in tanks, where fermentation begins inside the berries, resulting in wines with bright red fruit aromas, low tannins, and a lively, juicy character but often a slight bubble gum / banana taste.

In contrast, the winemaking approach in for the Crus employs more Burgundian techniques, including traditional fermentation, oak aging, and longer maceration periods. This produces wines with greater complexity, depth, and aging potential. Moulin-à-Vent offers firm tannins and spice, while Morgon is known for its fuller body and earthy character.

Climate change and investment are clearly having an impact on this regions ability to produce outstanding quality wines at compared to its northern neighbour very reasonable prices. For instance check out the Wine Society’s 150th Anniversary Moulin-à-Vent 2019.


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Wine dinner with Familia Zuccardi – Mendoza, Argentina with Eugenia González, UK Brand Ambassador Tuesday 11th February 2025 at Frederick’s Restaurant

We had another great wine dinner with Familia Zuccardi – Mendoza, Argentina presented by Eugenia González, UK Brand Ambassador, on Tuesday 11th February 2025 at Frederick’s Restaurant in Islington.

Alberto Zuccardi, planted the first Zuccardi vines in a small plot in the Maipu region in 1963. Located in the Uco Valley, Mendoza which is at the foothills of the Andes Mountains in Argentina

They were voted The World’s Best Vineyard in 2020. Sebastián Zuccardi the third generation of the family, continues the family business and is one of South America’s finest winemakers. He added a Research and Development Wing in the family winery, to learn and analyse more about the terroirs.

They are known to produce some of the highest quality of wines in South America. The vineyards enjoy the benefits of altitude and a cool dry climate throughout the year.

 They are high-altitude wines (from grapes grown at least 500 metres above sea level). At high-altitudes, vines get more sun during the day and are cool at night. This diurnal variation intensifies the flavour of the grapes. Zuccardi’s San Pablo vineyards are situated 1500m above sea level. Their Paraje Altamira vineyards are at 1,100 metres altitude.

We had six brilliant wines including their single-varietal estate wines, primarily made from Malbec with a matched three course menu.

  Zuccardi Blanc de Blancs  Vintage 2017   Delicious, very Champagne like, autolytic with a lovely freshness and showing characters of 8 years of age. Made from single vineyard chardonnay grapes at an altitude of 5,000 feet

Zuccardi Blanc De Blancs Vintage 2017

Starter            

Chilli prawns “Pil Pil” pappardelle ˝
Superfood winter salad; roast pepper, butternut squash, avocado,
broad beans, pearl barley, pumpkin seeds (vegetarian/vegan)˝

Zuccardi Serie A / Valles Torrontés – A more restrained version of Torrontes, some florality reflecting it’s familial connection with Muscat but not overtly floral. Beautifully textured lovely mouthfeel. Really paired well with mild chilli prawn pappardelle.

  Zuccardi Polígonos Chardonnay a rich creamy Burgundian style Chardonnay with beautiful integration from 30% ageing in oak barrels. Pineapple hints of peach with minerality and flint. Really well balanced.


Pan-fried fillet of hake, seafood risotto ˝
Chateaubriand steak, chips, French beans, chimichuri
Zuccardi Tito Malbec
Zuccardi Concreto Malbec˝ aged in concrete, egg shaped vessels, helps to retain the fresh red and black fruits

Tiramisu
Zuccardi Malamado Fortfiled Malbec NV


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Not Yet Named Wine Co:  ‘I helped make that wine’

Last year I signed up to the Not Yet Named Wine Co. at the suggestion of one of our regular wine dinner guests (thanks Carrie)

The attraction was that Alex Brogan who runs the venture offers an ingenious way of involving wine lovers of all levels to become part of the winemaking process. Founded by Alex and Manuel two Plumpton College Viticulture and Oenology students seeking a way to fund their own wines, the project has evolved into a vibrant community of wine enthusiasts, united by a shared passion for creating something truly unique.

At its core, the concept is beautifully simple: members pay a monthly subscription to participate in crafting two wines per year, one from the northern hemisphere and one from the southern. In return, they receive six bottles twice annually. What makes it special, however, is the democratic decision-making process. At every key stage, whether selecting fermentation methods, maturation vessel or blending styles, members vote on how the wine should be made, guided by detailed, jargon-free educational emails outlining the pros and cons of each option. Normally these emails come with an added dash of humour or at the very least a pun or two.

For those seeking deeper engagement a WhatsApp group offers a space to debate decisions with fellow members. The company also organizes annual vineyard visits (northern hemisphere), where subscribers can taste their wine in barrel and participate in blending or acidity trials transforming the experience from theoretical to hands-on.

The current vintage is being produced in Slovenia and Alex and Ales Rodica from the winery hosting the vintage, brought over some barrel samples of the Malvazija that we’re making for us to taste. And that’s the great thing about this, you do feel as if you are a part of the wine making team even if Alex is doing all the work.


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Vasse Felix: A Margaret River pioneer

If you’ve ever wondered how Margaret River came to produce some of the world’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon led Bordeaux blends, Dr. Tom Cullity is no small part of the answer.

Back in 1965 Dr. John Gladstones of the University of Western Aus had identified the ridge running north south in Margaret River as having good potential for viticulture.

Enter Tom Cullity, Perth cardiologist and, most importantly, lover of Bordeaux. He bought land in 67 and planted Cabernet, Malbec and Riesling establishing Vasse Felix wines

The Riesling didn’t make it but the Cabernet and Malbec vines still go into the winery’s flagship Tom Cullity bordeaux blend. The 2020 of which is pure silk and elegance.

It’s pretty dry during the growing season and at 34 degrees latitude it would be hot but for the cool cape current hugging the peninsula which moderates the summer temperature. As a result grapes ripen slowly and the wines to stay fresh.

Vasse Felix also make excellent chardonnays, the ripe yet restrained Heytsbury is the premium offering, but both the estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are also tremendous wines.

A visit and lunch at their amazing restaurant overlooking the vineyards is definitely a must if you are in the region.