WanderCurtis Wine

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Category Archives: past events


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Barolos and wines of Piemonte, Italy at Giovanni Rana

Aged Barolo and Barbaresco live up to their international reputation but lesser known local varieties such as Arneis, Dolcetto and Barbera can be fantastic value in the hands of great wine makers.

Thirty-two guests attended this tasting, which was held at Giovanni Rana’s swish and airy new restaurant, in the Regents Place development on Euston Road. The tasting was designed to give an overview of the various wines of Piedmont. Most people have heard of Barolo (made from 100% Nebbiolo), arguably the region’s most famous wine and one that inspires wine buffs to launch into rapturous praise of its unique character, complexity and aging potential. But the region is also host to a  range of other grape varieties that produce great value delicious drinking wines and the evening set out to show some of these too.

Rebecca Nightingale of Montforte Wines and Roger Barlow of Gerard Seel kindly introduced the region and presented the wines on the evening. The restaurant provided a superb selection of antipasti and some memorable pasta dishes that complimented the wines perfectly, proving just what food friendly wines these are.

The first wine sampled was a white Arneis from Roero by the fabulously named Gigi Rosso. This wine was fresh with a persistent lingering and unique flavour. Aromas of flowers and unripe pear, really very well balanced with a long finish. Lovely and very popular amongst the guests.

Round 1: Dolcetto (introduced by Rebecca)

  • Dolcetto d’Alba ‘Duset’ 2010 by Le Vigne di Ca Nova. Fresh, with morello cherries and savoury notes. A wine to drink in his youth as a light and refreshing lunchtime drink.
  • Dolcetto d’Alba Rutuin 2007 by Caibot Berton. Slightly older, this wine was less fruity but slightly more complex on the palate with a note of golden Virginia tobacco. At five years old, it’s probably reaching its peak. A lovely, tasty, moreish drop. These wines  have fairly low tannin but are nevertheless fresh and good with food.

Round 2: Barbera (introduced by Rebecca, contrasting oaked and unoaked)

  • Barbera d’Alba 2010 by La Licenziana. Fresh with lots of acidity, a wine that really reacted well to the prosciutto and salami on the table. On the nose, fresh, light strawberry and red fruits. Again, a wine for drinking in its youth.
  • Barbera superiore ‘Bric de Maschi’ 2007 by Le Vigne di Ca Nova. Delivered a slightly smoky nose with vanilla, perhaps chocolate and still plenty of cherry fruit. Absolutely delicious on the palate with sticky crust of cherry tart and savoury notes. Fantastic value for money and a delicious drop of wine from 2007.

Round 3: Barolo (introduced by Roger)

  • Barolo Roggeri 2007 by Caibot Berton. In Piedmont, where Barolo has a reputation for huge tannins that need many years in the bottle to tame, 2007 is thought to be a very approachable and friendly year with lovely soft integrated tannins. The Roggeri proves the rule with absolutely delicious complex notes of fruit, classic tar and floral aromas on the nose. In the mouth, again gorgeous, still plenty of tannin but smooth and tasty. This wine has structure and hints of how it may develop in complexity with age. No wonder Decanter gave this five stars and rated it top for value for money in recent review of Barolo 2007.
  • Barolo Serralunga d’Alba 2007 by Fontanafredda. Also a 2007 and if it if anything even more approachable with notes of tobacco and mushrooms and a little liquorice on the nose. On the palate nice, fresh and fruity with a bit of spice and very soft integrated tannins. Perhaps a little brief but a really approachable and tasty Barolo. In fact a wine that many people found easier to enjoy than the slightly more structured Roggeri.

These lines were accompanied by a great range of pasta including pappardelle al ragù d’anatra (duck) and porcini ravioli, again proving how well these winds even in relative youth go with food.

Round 4: Style and Age – Barbaresco and Barolo

The final round of wines contrasted a Barbaresco with an older Barolo. Barbaresco wines are considered again to be more approachable more soft and feminine softer and less fiercely tannic. On the other hand Barolo is famed for the way it delivers a delicate cocktail of aromas and flavours once the tannin has reduced with age.

  • Barbaresco Bric Balin 2005 by Moccagatta. This single vineyard Nebbiolo has lovely savoury notes then toffee, condensed milk some floral scents perhaps a little bit of the famous tar, complex. In the mouth, long, savoury, sweet and delicious. Really an outstanding wine. Still young, but with beautifully integrated tannins and that great long future ahead of it.
  • Barolo Carobric, 1997 by Paulo Scavino. A big name in Barolo and a blend of three of their best vineyards. Stealing the show and providing a brilliant lesson in just what the Barolo can deliver, but even at 15 years of age it still needed time to open up in the glass. Notes of tar, earthiness, a bit of mushroom and a whiff of violets on top complex notes. In the mouth, still quite tannic but slowly opening up and providing more of those savoury sweet notes with a core of ripe fruit bellow. Changing flavours, complex and persistent still, with many years ahead of it. Fantastic.

We finished the evening with a glass of Moscato d’Asti 2010, Santa Vittoria. Another white, lightly fizzy and sweet, but also fresh to cleanse the palate and end a hedonistic evening.

Kiran’s wines of the evening

  • Barolo Carobric, 1997 by Paulo Scavino (£86.00 – Fine & Rare)
  • Barbaresco Bric Balin 2005 by Moccagatta. (£32.75 – Gerrard Seel)

Kiran’s best value wines

  • Barbera superiore ‘Bric de Maschi’ 2007 by Le Vigne di Ca Nova (£12.25 Montforte Wines)
  • Dolcetto d’Alba Rutuin 2007 by Caibot Berton (£9.95 – Gerrard Seel)

Must have for Kiran’s cellar

  • Barolo Roggeri 2007 by Caibot Berton (£29.95– Gerrard Seel)

Contact

  • wine@gerrardseel,co,uk
  • rebbecca@montfortewines,com


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The wines of Austria spring tasting – Highgate, London

Welcome wine:

  • Domaine Wachau Terrace. Lovely, clean, crisp, minerally, excellent value. Our wine of the month in June 2011. Available from Waitrose.

Round 1:

  • Lagler smaragd Riesling/Weissburgunder/Gruner Veltliner

Subtle differences the pinot blanc, which was more acidic. The riesling slightly honeyed, ripe apricots. The gruner minerally crisp.

Round 2:

  • Emmerich Knoll – Federspiel  gruner veltliner2010 and gruner veltliner ried Loibenberg smaragd vinothefullung.

Federspiel crisp young mineral quality.The smaragd full luscious oily viscous honeyed superb.

Break for Tafelspitz.

Round 3:

  • Weingut Brundlymayer Ried Kaferberg smaragd Gruner veltliner 2002 V 2009

Both full bodied honeyed lush wines. The 2002 particularly smooth, rounded. Lacks the crispness of the young ones and not fresh but a great embodiment of the best terroir.

Round 4:

  • Lagler Eiswein Neuberger 2003 harvested christmas eve
  • Berenauslese Riesling 200 served with Birgit’s Apfel Strudel

Impressive array of wines and food 18 guests. Other great wines to mention ,which we plan to introduce to future tastings are the amazing Brundlymayer Rose Brut and the superb Brundlymayer Red Lamm 2009.


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Best tempranillos of Spain – Ribera Del Duero

There were 15 people and 13 wines. Hosted outside with jamón, tortilla, anchovies  and manchego.

Round 1: Style and category of wine 

  • Coso Viejo Reserva
  • Joven Crianza

Round 2: Cost of wine

  • Vizcarra 15 meses 2008, £7
  • Protos Crianza 2006, £15
  • Protos Gran reserva 2001, £40

Round 3:  Ageing and spot the Rioja

  • Alion 2004
  • Vega sicilia Valbuena 2002
  • Rioja Alta 1997

Round 4: Same year,  what’s your favourite

  • Protos 2006 Seleccion
  • Vizcarra Celia 2006
  • Vizcarra Torralvo 2006
  • Pesquera Gran reserva 2005

Wines of the evening:

  • Best value: Coso Viejo Reserva followed by Vizcarra Torralvo 2006
  • Adam’s favourite: Protos Seleccion, followed by Vizcarra Celia 2006
  • Kiran’s favourite: Vizcarra Celia 2006 followed by Alion 2004
  • A wine that will be great but still needs a few years: Pesquera Gran reserva 2005.

For detailed tasting notes see the blog. ‘ Wine tasting trip to the Ribera Del Duero. May 20th to 23rd’


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Four decades of Bordeaux – Highgate, London

Tasting and comparing classed growths from each of the last four decades certainly delivered plenty of intellectual interest, but a little more drinking pleasure from the wines wouldn’t have gone amiss.

The theme of the tasting, which included wines from 7 through to 42 years old, was aging.(Quite appropriate as it came a few days after my birthday on which one of the nicest treats was realising that over the last few months I’d been labouring under the impression that I was a year closer to 50 than I really am!)

Round 1: Old v Young

  • Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste 5th Paulliac 1975

We opened the two remaining bottles of this, the first being oxidised. The second although not faulty was unfortunately really an example of a wine on its very last legs. Brick coloured and noticeably lighter in colour than the Batailley. The nose initially delivered some stewed fruit and forest floor notes, bark chips etc. but soon faded. Interestingly after a while it turned to a not unpleasant scent of turmeric. On the palate more cooked fruit, then unmistakably oxidised. This was one of seven bought at auction, three of which were fantastic, three completely oxidised. *

  • Chateau Batailley 5th Growth Paulliac 2005

Garnet colour, restrained and tight nose but as it opens up classic cassis, cedar wood and a touch of blackcurrant leaf, good balance and freshness (acidity to age well hopefully). The tannins are there in abundance, but not harsh or aggressive at all. With decanting this becomes more complex and shows its potential. A good contrast, as this wine is too young but still lovely **++

Round 2: Saint Julien Leoville seconds
(sort of but not really as each of these are chateaus in their own right)

  • Chateau Langoa Barton 1989

Both of these similar colour with brick rim. Some similar characteristics as one would expect from neighbouring vineyards, but as they opened up they showed their individuality. ’89 was the better year and the Langoa didn’t disappoint, gradually opening up in the glass with wave after wave of subtle sweet and savoury scent combinations: forest floor, baked fruit tart etc. Similar experience in the mouth, soft and delicate blends of flavour sustaining one’s interest. This is a great example of how the primary flavours have dropped away to reveal more subtle and complex ones beneath. Excellent ***

  • Chateau Clos de Marquis 1988

Quite a perfumed nose, someone suggested of fabric plasters and Savlon but in a good way? In the mouth still some life with fruit and vegetable flavours. This didn’t develop in the same way as the Langoa and in comparison was a little one dimensional but enjoyable if not particularly long. **

Round 3: Left and Right bank

  • Chateau Cantenac Brown growth Margaux 3rd 1996

On the nose this was at first a little restrained but opened up with classic cassis, graphite, and a bit of wood still predominant, but accompanied by more savoury flavours of caramelised fruit and a bit of peat. Good balance still tight, refined as a Margaux should be. Could have done with decanting and has plenty of years left. **++

  • Le Jardin de Petit Village 1996. Pommerol

This has plenty of fruit on the nose, plumbs and a hint of cocoa powder which is the predominant merlot in this right bank second wine. On the palate rounded and mellow less structure than the Cantenac Brown but more mature and very tasty. My guess is that this is just right now in terms of aging.**

Round 4: Second Growths

  • Chateau Brane-Cantenac 2nd Growth Margaux 1970

The oldest wine of the evening, light brick colour, initially slightly funky nose as one taster put it, for me it was a whiff of Brussels sprouts with other vegetal notes, still some sweetness, changing to earthy loam then stewed fruit. On the palate nice sweetness, and engaging complexity, autumnal red fruits, baked tarts, spice, savoury notes. Again developing with a progression of fleeting flavour combinations to keep one interested. Lovely ***

  • Chateau Pichon Longueville 2nd Growth Paulliac 2002

A rather ungiving nose, some cassis and wood but a bit light and not forthcoming. Same on the palate, a bit too delicate, some fruit and mineral, but after a decade one would have hoped for more, perhaps a bit hollow? Will this improve is it just still shut tight or is there not much there? ’02 not a great year and disappointing for the price.*

The evening finished with a couple of sweet Bordeaux and Gerald’s excellent apple tart.

On reflection it was certainly an education in how Bordeaux age. Most people enjoyed the 1980s and 1996 wines, which were I think more accessible. The 1970 Brane-Cantenac was for me the wine of the evening just because it was so interesting whereas the Langoa 89 probably gave the most pleasure. The Cantenac Brown and Batailley didn’t show their full potential as they have on recent pre-tastings when they had time to fully open up over an evening, but should be delicious with a few more years.


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Wine quiz and tasting – New Hall, Channing, Highgate

The evening started with a few glasses of Heidsieck Gold Top Vintage 2004, classy steely fizz with a hint of biscuit that will no doubt develop.  A round of questions on champagne was followed by three whites.

Wine 1: Grüner Veltliner, Terraces, Domaine Wachau 2008, Austria. Lovely nose of apple and cinnamon, fresh limey notes in the mouth. Lovely balance.  £7.50 from Waitrose. Great value every day drinking.

Wine 2: Gewurztraminer Réserve, Trimbach Alsace, 2005, France. Exotic nose, good balance lychee and honey. £15.50 from the Wine Society. People either love it or hate it.

Wine 3: Chardonnay, Kumeu River Estate, 2006, New Zealand. Citrus, minerally, complex and delicious with nice woody notes.  This wine evolves in the glass and sustains ones attention. Mistaken for a premier cru Mersault or Puligny in many blind tastings. £15.50 from the Wine Society. Tremendous value.

After a break for the buffet four red wines followed:

Wine 4: The Wine Society Exhibition Cairanne, 2007, Grenache/Syrah, Cote du Rhone, France. Did not show well this evening.  Rather dumb on the nose and struggled to come across as more than pleasantly fruity. Normally this opens up after an hour’s decanting.  £8.95 from The Wine Society.  The Society’s Exhibition Vacqueyras, 2007 at a pound more is a clear step up and superb, also needs a good half hours decanting.

Wine 5: Emilio Moro, 2006, Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain. This wine also didn’t shine on the evening as it has on previous occasions.  Again it would have benefited from decanting to bring out the black fruit, chocolate and smokey characteristics that normally make this wine so moreish, great value at the price.  £12.95 reduced from £17.95 from Majestic.

Wine 6: Wither Hills ‘Winery Matured’ Pinot Noir, 2005 Marlborough, New Zealand. Smokey and boiled sweets on the nose, toasty notes over fruit on the palette. A rare chance to buy a matured new world pinot. £16.99 from Majestic

Wine 7: Langoa Barton, 1997, Cab Sav/Merlot, St. Julien, Bordeaux. Lovely nose of cedar, fruit and earth, still enough fruit on the palette underneath, vegetal and further earthy notes, complex, evolves in the glass.  At its peak now. Very good value for a mature claret.  £25.50 from Farr Vintners (minimum order of £500).

The evening was rounded off with chocolate brownies and Waitrose Sauternes Château Suduiraut 2005 Bordeaux. Lovely honey and beeswax nose, complex flavours sustained by just enough acidity to keep it fresh and very quaffable. £13.50per half bottle from Waitrose.

Lots of great feedback from 90 guests who seemed to really enjoy the quiz format and rolled home happily still arguing about the number of calories in a glass of white wine.


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Grand Cru and Premier Cru Burgundy tasting

Winter warmer burgundy and boeuf bourgignon. A fantastic evening hosted by Stuart Grostern.

Round 1:

  • Jean Chauvenet Nuits St Georges Les Damodes 1er Cru 2001
  • Jean Chauvenet Nuits St Georges Les Damodes 1er Cru 2002

The 2001 was a little oxidised, either a faulty bottle or past its best, the 2002 fresher.

Round 2:

The hearty bourgignon was served with a Louis Jadot premier cru Savigny les beaune les vergelesses. I’ve tried this yearly since what I thought was a disappointing start. This was beginning to open up and reveal the benefits of being patient, something I don’t possess in abundance, as Kiran kept reminding me!

Round 3:

  • AC Bourgogne Olivier Leflaive with a premier and grand cru
  • Drouhin-Laroze Chappelle Chambertins Grand Cru 2002
  • Nicolas Potel, Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru 2003
  • Hubert de Montille Pommard Les Pezerolles 1er Cru 2003
  • Ghislaine Barthod Chambolles Musigny les Chatelots 1er Cru 2004.

For me, this evening demonstrated the unpredictability of burgundy. You may have something knockout with an animalistic almost hormonal quality you can’t put in words. It may be fresh, fruity, raspberry, black cherry. It may be pure horseradish or tinned asparagus. Mushrooms/earth,compost, wet mouldy cloths, moss.

I suppose that’s the beauty of it .


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An introduction to wine tasting – St Michaels, Highgate

A superb night of wine education and tasting for the St Michaels School Association (SMSA). Four rounds of three wines 80 people. Included Domaine Varoilles Gevrey Chambertin 2000. Excellent crowd and a lot of money raised at the auction.


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Leoville Barton and Langoa Barton vertical tasting

We had some great feedback from a very exclusive crowd of 20 north London wine lovers who attended our first tasting last week. Seasoned wine collectors and those keen to learn more seemed to enjoy the evening equally, not least Adam and me.

We managed to get together a selection of 11 wines from Chateau Leoville Barton and Langoa Barton spanning from ’88 through to ’04. Wines were served in pairs blind to compare the chateaus, youthful and aged wines and high scoring vintages with lesser.

Starting with a ’98 of each, we were disappointed by how dumb and uninteresting they were. The 2000’s, ’01s and ’02s were all good but hard to tell apart. This in spite of the highs score of the Leoville ’00 and the price premium that both ’00s command over the ’01s and ’02s. Perhaps they are all a bit young and time will allow the ’00s to stride ahead?

The 1988 Leoville was fully evolved with earthy notes and just enough fruit left, all together lovely. The evening finished with a ’96 Leoville which was equally gorgeous and complex but more vigorous and substantial.

The surprise star of the evening however was Langoa ’97 with notes of sweet pepper, a compact core and long middle palate, which is drinking beautifully now in spite of being unloved by the ciritcs. The Langoa ’04 was also noteworthy. Although young, it was smokey, cassis and vanilla rich and showed lots of promise.

List of wines

  • Leoville: ’88, ’96, ’98, ’00, ’01, 02
  • Langoa: ’97, ’98, ’00, ’01, ’04