WanderCurtis Wine

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Category Archives: Australia


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Vasse Felix: A Margaret River pioneer

If you’ve ever wondered how Margaret River came to produce some of the world’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon led Bordeaux blends, Dr. Tom Cullity is no small part of the answer.

Back in 1965 Dr. John Gladstones of the University of Western Aus had identified the ridge running north south in Margaret River as having good potential for viticulture.

Enter Tom Cullity, Perth cardiologist and, most importantly, lover of Bordeaux. He bought land in 67 and planted Cabernet, Malbec and Riesling establishing Vasse Felix wines

The Riesling didn’t make it but the Cabernet and Malbec vines still go into the winery’s flagship Tom Cullity bordeaux blend. The 2020 of which is pure silk and elegance.

It’s pretty dry during the growing season and at 34 degrees latitude it would be hot but for the cool cape current hugging the peninsula which moderates the summer temperature. As a result grapes ripen slowly and the wines to stay fresh.

Vasse Felix also make excellent chardonnays, the ripe yet restrained Heytsbury is the premium offering, but both the estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are also tremendous wines.

A visit and lunch at their amazing restaurant overlooking the vineyards is definitely a must if you are in the region.


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Margaret River – well worth a visit.

Margaret River only produces 3% of Australia’s wine but produces a large proportion of its premium offerings.

Though a young wine region, Margaret River is recognised globally for its premium wines, particularly its elegant Cabernet Sauvignon, refined Chardonnay, and crisp white Bordeaux-style blends. Located in Western Australia, this remote yet picturesque region benefits from a unique climate and ancient soils, creating exceptional conditions for grape growing.

Margaret River’s wine story began in 1967, when Dr. Tom Cullity planted the first commercial vineyard at Vasse Felix, inspired by Harold Olmo, a University of California viticulture professor who identified the region’s potential for fine wine production. Soon after another medic Dr. Kevin Cullen and his wife founded Cullen Wines, further establishing the region’s credibility. By the 1970s, the area attracted the attention of Robert Mondavi, the legendary Napa Valley winemaker. His technical expertise and influence were pivotal in guiding Leeuwin Estate towards planting Chardonnay, which was still rare in Australia at the time. Under his mentorship, Leeuwin’s Art Series Chardonnay became one of the nation’s most celebrated wines, proving Margaret River’s potential on the world stage.

Situated at 34 degrees latitude, Margaret River’s climate should be warm to hot. However, it enjoys a cooler maritime influence due to the Cape Current, which hugs the Indian Ocean coastline surrounding the peninsula. This cooling current moderates the summer temperatures, preventing the vines from overheating and allowing for a long, gentle ripening season essential for producing wines with complexity and balance.

The region’s rainfall pattern is also significant. With high winter rainfall and dry, warm summers, Margaret River experiences a low disease pressure growing season, reducing the need for chemical intervention. The region’s red gravelly loam soils, formed over ancient granite and gneiss bedrock, are low in nutrients, naturally restricting vine vigour and promoting concentrated, high-quality fruit.

The absence of phylloxera allows Margaret River’s vineyards to have been propagated from selected heritage cuttings, preserving and enhancing the region’s clones.

Margaret River’s Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in the region’s free-draining, gravelly soils. The extended ripening period ensures full tannin maturity, resulting in wines with dark fruit flavours, fine structure, and great aging potential.

Chardonnay, often made from the region’s signature Gingin clone, performs exceptionally well in the cool maritime climate. This clone produces small, loose bunches with berries of varying sizes, resulting in wines with concentrated citrus, stone fruit, and tropical flavours, complemented by vibrant acidity.

The region’s Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blends, inspired by white Bordeaux, flourish in the cool conditions, offering zesty citrus, passionfruit, and herbaceous notes with crisp acidity and freshness.

There is also a vibrant wine and gastronomic culture driven by visitors from nearby affluent Perth and international tourists are also drawn by the amazing coastal landscape and ancient gum tree forests.


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Marri Wood Park: Biodynamic wine grower in Margaret River

Tucked away in Yallingup, Western Australia, Marri Wood Park is a small family-owned vineyard known for its Demeter-certified biodynamic practices. Since 1992, this 16-acre estate, located along Caves Road near Smiths Beach, has cultivated vines with a reverence for nature’s rhythms.

The vineyard’s sustainable philosophy avoids chemicals, instead embracing celestial cycles to guide pruning, fertilising, and harvesting. Grazing animals enrich the soil, while natural biodiversity fosters a self-sustaining ecosystem. With no irrigation, the vines rely on the cooling breezes of the Southern Indian Ocean and the deep, resilient roots of their 28-year-old cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, and semillon vines. The soils are a blend of sandy, gravelly loam over limestone bedrock retain water over the dry summer.

Hand-harvested grapes are meticulously sorted and fermented in a variety of vessels, including clay amphoras and French and Austrian oak barrels. This hands-on, minimalist approach captures the essence of Margaret River, producing wines of purity and depth.

Inspired by Rudolf Steiner, whose teachings revealed nature’s intelligence, and guided by Alex Podolinsky, the founder of Demeter Bio-Dynamics, Julian the owner of Marri Wood Park embraces a philosophy of ‘active perception’. He explains that through observing and engaging with the land, they have cultivated a profound affinity with their patch, a deep respect for its rhythms and ecosystem and how it works.

Visit the estate by appointment and Julian will walk you through the land and the vineyards explaining his unique approach as he goes then on returning the  barn sample the wines.

Unusually for the region they grow Chenin Blanc and the Marri Wood Park, Chenin Blanc museum release 2014 was superb!

Rich yellow in colour, with an intense nose of waxy lemon peel, preserved lemon, yellow apple, fresh green rosemary, thyme and dried herbs. There is also roasted macadamia, smoke, toast and honeycomb. Super complex.

Dry, very mouth-watering, with a lovely oily texture. Medium body, only 11.2%. More tart citrus, tinned peach, a subtle touch of vanilla, waxy and toasty, with a long taught finish.


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The Settlers Tavern, Margaret River.

Many of the wineries in the Margaret River region have excellent restaurants but these are normally only open at lunchtime. Great for combining a visit to the winery, a taste through the wines and a scenic lunch in the Vineyard, but what do you do in the evening?


The answer turned out to The Settlers Tavern in the town of Margaret River itself. It is very popular so you need to book but once you’re in, there’s a great menu ranging from something light like fish tacos (if you’ve already had a big lunch) through to a 300 g rump steak if you need it. Best of all they have an incredible fine wine list with a large number served by the glass either from their enomatic machine or via Coravin for their list of ‘Premium and Iconic’ wines.

I had a glass of Cullen ‘Grace Madeline’ Wilyabrup Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blend. At a Liberty Wines tasting in London Vanya Cullen explained that this wine was inspired by Haut-Brion Blanc which counts as one of the most amazing whites I’ve ever been lucky enough to try.  This homage is stunning; aromatic but smoky, full of energy but also substance and delicious.

I also had a glass of Cullen ‘Diana Madeline, 2012 which was still perfumed, with black currant and capsicum and lovely earth and leathery notes.

We didn’t manage to visit Cullen winery and I love their wines and their biodynamic and carbon neutral approach to wine making. This made up for it though!


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Wine Australia Tour , November 2016, Yarra Valley

Inland Australia is  massive, equivalent to  the size of the United States. This leads to a continental effect. Warm North Westerly winds come  from inland. However a cooling effect comes from the  Southwesterlies from the southern ocean giving  Yarra Valley a cool climate. The geology is ancient, 550 million to 800 million years old, much older than most regions . There’s not many mountain ranges .The impact of  climate change  over the last 20 years has led to a harvest one to two days earlier each year .The length of the  growing season is the  same. This spring has been much wetter than usual. Higher red loam volcanic soils gives low tannin ideal for sparkling wines.

Oakridge Winery David Bicknell – Chief Winemaker and CEO gave us an insightful introduction to the region.

Eight chardonnays from 2015 similarly made, approximately 20% to 30% new oak for 10 months, whole bunch press, wild ferment, low or no Malo, low sulphur, leave on lees most years, bigger barrels. Chardonnay is very successful in the cool climate of this region. Typical flavours of white peach and melon.

De Bortoli AA5  Creamy, vanilla ,smokey, toasty, touch pineapple, less texture on the palate lacking length.

Yering station 2015 Lovely nose, complex, sl butter, toast smoky  nice toasty length.

Layla 2015 Helen and Joey Estate Less on nose, pineapple, hint toast,closed.

Giant steps 2015 Chardonnay melon,passionfruit, pineapple, background toast lovely texture mouthfeel balance length complexity ++ core citric backbone.

Seville Estate 2015 Flint smoke toast oak lovely texture crisp acid backbone length.

Oakridge 2015 Willow Lake Vineyard Ripe honey dew melon, finish crisp and citric slightly bitter.

Elmswood estate 2015 Some Oak smoke toast nice acid prominent.

Coldsteam Hills 2015 Toasty clean crisp vanilla integrated.

Winemaker thoughts -earlier picking keep sun off vines, good acid,low oak, fresher style, lovely integrated wines, cool climate grapefruit pith, keep compact fruit. This has changed over the years. The feeling is that previously the wines were overmade,  making big flashy wines. The changes have been spurred by multiple issues including market forces such as the proximity to the well informed Melbourne clientele and the need to counter the surge of New Zealand sauvignon. The confidence and increased expertise of local winemakers have helped enable this.

 

Eight Pinot Noirs 2015 Vintage

What is Yarra Pinot about? Red fruit and elegance, prettiness and food friendly. Soft tannin due to continentality. No fining, some unfiltered with a gentle approach. Whole bunch wild berry ferment helps promote perfume and elegance. Low percentage 10% to 15% new oak.  300L to 500L barrels, levels of toasting more subtle with careful selection of  oak. Low intervention, ‘my children could make this’ Hoddles Creek winemaker. Pinot Noir ranges from light to medium bodied with flavours of plum strawberry and raspberry.

 

Punt Road 2015 Red fruits long finish perfume and floral wild strawberry warmer part of valley more Malo

Giant steps Sexton Vineyard 2015 Red fruits  perfume spice length good acid core

Elmswood Estate Pinot Noir 2015 Herbal greener note candied cherry finish

De bortoli Riorret Lustatia Park vineyard 2015 More colour richer nose spicy notes strawberry ripe cherry summer pudding.Floral ripe fruit nice sl bitter finish,Cedar pencil shavings more tannin graphitic note

Journey Wines 2015 Sl more toasty smoky savoury earth forest floor good long finish +

Hoddles Creek Estate Pinot 2015 Medicinal mint herbal eucalyptus finish surrounded by forest

Oak ridge Willow Lake 2015 Spicy oak rich nose textured mouth feel long finish

Coldstream Hills Deer Farm 2015 Savoury long richer creamy mouthfeel uses 50% new oak sl smoky toast to finish

The wines showed lovely  freshness and purity with complexity and length and demonstrated what the Yarra Valley  can deliver. The wines were greatly appreciated over an exquisite lunch at Oakridge .

 

Four Pillars Gin with Cameron Mackenzie Juniper from Macedonia makes up 80% of the botanicals it gives a pine forest character. Coriander is the second most used botanical then  Cardamon from Guatemala, Star Anise  from Vietnam, Cassia a close cousin to cinnamon. Native Australian botanicals include, Lemon myrtle, cinnamon, leaf of Tasmanian pepper berry, green tea, white pepper 170 g in 600 litre, Lavender, Angelica root gives a  dusty old soily note and  acts as a  fixative. The base used is  wheat spirit. Fresh oranges are used  in the head of still,  leading  to infusion and  delicate extraction of citrus oils.

 

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Rare Dry Gin  Mediterranean character

Navy Strength  Gin58.8% more Asia native Australian finger lime dried almost like Thai  basil leaf / Vietnamese mint, lime caviar ginger and turmeric .

Four Pillars Barerender Series Spiced negroni gin more orange and Indonesian pepper to combat Campari bitters . Cubeb Grains of paradise  from Africa

Four pillars Rockpool Pomelos schezuan peppers other,dry elegant

Coloured gins

Bloody Shiraz Gin Version of sloe gin acid ++  from sloes  add sugar,Trials of Yarra Shiraz worked best (Cabernet too herbaceous)  destem soak for 8 weeks 37.8 c No colour no sugar added 95 gl sugar colour stable,Nice sweet touch long delicious.

Four pillars barrel aged Gin  French oak barrels

Four pillars Christmas Gin in old rutherglen barrels distilled Christmas puddings,Aromatics flavor balance weight texture

 

Dinner at Gembrook Hill

This is the last winery in Yarra, 3 km from border with Gippsland owned by the  Marks family. Andrew Marks makes Gembrook Hill with  Timo Mayer. He also has his  own label The Wanderer, and started The  Melbourne Gin Company.

We were surrounded by some of Australia’s most talented winemakers – Luke Lambert, Gary Mills from Jamsheed and  Timo Mayer and were lucky enough to try a wide range of their excellent wines accompanied by slow cooked lamb falling off the bone.

 

Shiraz and Cabernet focus at Yering station

Cool climate, selection of wines to show diversity, some cofermented with viognier others with Marsanne.Cabernet Sauvignon is often blended with Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Yarra Cabernet ranges from full to medium-bodied with silky tannins and aromatic,floral and herbal characters.

Seven Shiraz’s from Yarra Valley

Innocent Bystander 2015 Savoury pepper spice black fruits,low crop not much length, drying finish grippy tannins.

Punt Road 2015 Tim Shand , Lighter esters fruity red, and black fruits pepper lighter tannins chalky nice length good acidic core tension freshness tension Pinot technique whole bunch

Giant Steps 2015 Richer riper complex nose dense core ripe blackberries dark plums spice pepper savoury lovely ripe grippy tannins savoury finish sl salty +

Paynes Rise 2014 Smoke rubber pepper savoury meaty chalky tannins good acid balance

Yering station Old Beenak road 2014 Sl smoke toast spicy peppery core good long length black fruits length +

Yering station Shiraz viognier Reserve 2014 Alcohol spice closed chalky sl green tannins

Yarra yering 2014 more old school, complex nose of turmeric  spice vanilla pepper black fruits touch oak savoury meaty salty long finish + + violets

Seven Cabernet Sauvignons from  Yarra Valley

Looking for ripeness picking has to be late to avoid greeness and tomato leaf. The feeling is  that an edge of leafiness is best , site sensitive, different from Margaret River and Coonawarra dry red if picked too late.

Punt Road 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Chalky drying tannins, closed hint cassis

Tokara Estate 2015 Oak spice delicate tobacco cedar full richer coffee tannins chalky ++

Warramunda 2014 Cassis mint menthol  tannins, blackcurrant finish

Yeringberg 2014 Cedar mint drying chalky tannins

Yarra yering 2014 60 % cabernet Complex liquorice spice oak cassis tobacco ++ softer but still lots tannins sillier long length

De Bortoli Estate 2014 Cassis spice mint herbaceous not vegetal

Yering station 2014 18 months barrel mint menthol cedar cassis Length ++ Power elegance Length lovely +

 

img_1675-copyWe finished the day with fine dining in Fitzroy, Melbourne with a selection of wines from the tour.

Best Western  Pinot Meunier 1999 was  remarkable, so much fruit for a wine of this age and great balance and length.

Huge thanks to Wine Australia and our tour leader Mark Davidson  for their generosity and organisation of this memorable journey through some of Australia’s fines wine regions.


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Wine Australia Tour November 2016 – Adelaide Hills

The Adelaide Hills is one of the largest geographical wine regions in Australia, and amongst the most diverse in terms of climate, soil and topography. Overall the climate is cool best suited to early ripening varieties. Sauvignon Blanc is the most planted white variety and tends towards ripe tropical flavours with hints of herbaceousness with crisp acidity. chardonnay produces complex medium bodied wines of which a significant amount is used in sparkling wine production. Adelaide Hills id the leading region in South Australia for high quality Pinot Noir typically medium bodies with ripe cherry and strawberry fruit with soft tannins .
             
 Regional Classics Tasting at Pike and Joyce                                                               Sparkling wine


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Wine Australia Tour November 2016 Clare Valley (II)

Wendouree

Wendouree Cellars is one of the cult legends of Australian wine.Tony Brady has been winemaker since 1974 and together with his wife Lita are custodians  of this historical wine gem. The first vines were  planted in 1893. Wendouree has 28-acres of vines, all dry grown, yielding around 50 tonnes per vintage. The grapes are handpicked and made with minimal intervention in open top fermenters. The 100-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built. They switched to screw cap in 2009, having waited for 10 yrs for guala cap. Only a limited amount of quality wine is produced per year, for an exclusive mailing list of customers.

Wines we were luck enough to try –

Shiraz Mataro 2014 80% 20%  1893 vines 1919/20 vines.Tannin smooth well integrated  blueberry and blackberry fruit liquorice herb and spice texture lovely long meaty complex finish 13.3%

Shiraz Malbec 2014 1919/1920 vines.Lots generous  blue fruit.Great length after blueberry concentration.Black cherry great backbone  chalky tannins depth and concentration roses violets 13.6%

Shiraz 2014 1893 vines 13.7 % blue fruit and black pepper spice chalky tannins.Pepper finish delicious tannins full need time !

Malbec 2014 from 1898 plantings blueberry and blackberry  less tannins  Greek Corintiake currents may be present

Cabernet Malbec 2014 graphite pencil shavings cedar perfumed big tannins mouth coating acidic lurking needs a long time hint cassis but not much group thought ferrugenous ( iron like quality maybe from soils).Meaty bloody quality ? Hint chocolate

Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Cassis rich intense concentrated fruit tannins  a baby needs 20+yrs so concentrrated rich intense not complex yet. would love to try his old stuff fruit covered tannins chalky long long

Everyone agreed wow factor

Muscat of Alexandria 2014 1940 east vineyard planting slightly fortified to 17%.Grapes luscious delicious no one spitting ! Ripe apricot perfume floral length amazing  just awesome .so balanced and long orange blossom +++

A truly memorable experience with everyone hankering after a bottle !

 

Skillogalee

 

 

Dave and Diana Palmer were generous hosts for the evening at their boutique family-owned and operated winery located in the heart of the picturesque Clare Valley. Seated outside on the verandah and under the shade of an old olive tree, overlooking the cottage garden and the vines we were treated to some real gems and delicious local cuisine.

Skillogalee shiraz 2012 spicy rich intense fantastic length and balance

Skillogalee Gewurtztraminer beautiful restrained Gewürztraminer with lovely florality

Skillogalee Riesling clean crisp lovely long finish

Wood vale  2014 Shiraz black intense blue and black fruits pepper spice long.

Mcnichol 2004 shiraz  fragrant complex with dark fruits .Made by the lovely Hilary Mitchell who’s magical smile lasts long in the memory.

 

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Wine Australia Tour November 2016 – Clare Valley (I)

Riesling has become synonymous with Clare Valley. The typical style is restrained and austere when young, with lime and mineral notes. They can evolve for decades and most benefit from over 5 years of ageing. Clare Shiraz is full flavoured with ripe blackberry and spice characteristics. There is a large diurnal shift with drops in temperature from 40C  in the day to 1C at night common during the ripening months. This allows for acid retention and vibrant fruit quality. We were lucky enough to visit some of the iconic wine producers – Jim Barry Wines, Grosset, and Wendouree .

Jim Barry Wines

An evening with Peter Barry and family at his lovely colonial home was one of the highlights of not just this wine trip but all previous tours. In his Garden the much anticipated Assyrtiko was unveiled, The glorious end product of his vision following  a  family holiday to Santorini  in 2006.Ten years on, following a lengthy process of importation and quarantine of the cuttings, we were lucky enough to be amongst the first to try it . Crisp,fresh and acidic and fittingly served with fresh anchovies. It was clear to  see Peter is a visionary in the wine industry.He then served the delicious Florita Riesling, lovely floral nose and fresh lime zest.

We moved inside for dinner. I could barely hide my excitement at the array of wines chosen. Two vintages of the majestic The Benbournie Cabernet Sauvignon . Mcrae wood Shiraz 1994 ,1998 . The Armagh 2002 and 2010, and many more. When he brought out  a range of silly hats from a Morrocan Fez to a Mexican Sombrero, Peter and his lucky guests hit full song . The evening’s finale lay in The Jim Barry cellars sampling a rare old home matured Rutherglen and his own ‘Sauternes’ 1981.

We left in fine fettle . This night will long go down in the memory.

 

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Grosset

Jeffrey Grosset is internationally recognised as one of the most influential winemakers in the world. He hosted a Riesling Masterclass ( 9am 11 th November) We started with a review of the geology in the Clare Valley. The region’s soils are 500 to 800 million yrs old it’s phylloxera freeand vines are  on their own rootstock .Clare has up to 110 yrs of unbroken winemaking history. Grosset is situated in the south of Clare , which is 25 km in length  . We tasted  six 2016 Rieslings in pairs from different sites to demonstrate the expressiveness of different terroirs , followed by six older Rieslings to demonstrate the marked changes in ageing .

 

Grosset Polish Hill 2016 Lime zest/blossom clean crisp piercing acidity linear hint white flower,closed

Pokes Merle Riesling 2016 Lime clean acid pear apple lemon grapefruit closed generally

Crabtree Watervale Riesling 2016 Red loam limestone watervale region,boot polish musty nose reduced,Crisp fresh lime on palate

Jim Barry Florita Riesling 2016 More floral Jasmine white blossom.Lime juice long finish open fresh

Celtic farm Riesling 2016 Floral white yellow blossom open nose honeysuckle stone fruit peach warmer site mandarin more open wine more lush complex mineralty salty

Naked run Riesling 2016 Pear apple hint mandarin lime and salty finish

Aged Riesling flight

2014 Hill River Clare Estate Riesling Petrol beeswax fuller richer palate length depth lime more developed than expected for 2 yrs

2013 Leo Buring Leonay Riesling Petrolic reduction TDN

2010 Kilikanoon Morts Reserve Riesling  dry acid crisp lime length petrol

2009 Paulette aged release Riesling Petrol honey longer complex sl toasty marzipan beeswax **

2005 Mount Horrocks Riesling Tropical fruits honey beeswax marzipan.Long finish nutty toast

2004 Mitchell’s Watervale Riesling Beeswax honey nuts toast,petrol long

The wines were generally bone dry (less than 4gl or nil).Value wines not expensive given beautiful development over few years.Production is low.

 

We then drove to  the Gaia vineyard through Montero slate country. Jeffrey specifically chose this isolated east facing slope  20 years ago for his Cabernet Sauvignon.We sampled the lovely Gaia 2013- Herbaceous, black currant leaf,casssis capsicum good acid backbone and length

 

Lunch  at Paulett vineyard , Polish Hill River with alternative varietals tasting followed

 

Pauletts Helmsford semillon2015 by Polish Hill Lemon citrus fresh clean

47/74 hand crafted Malbec Cabernet 2010 Cassis black plum mint liquorice concentrated fine chalky tannins good acidity length

Artwine Fiano Wicked Stepmother 2016  fresh lovely texture oily mouth coating

Matriarch and Rogue 2016 Vermentino hint peach pear good crisp acidity

Mount Horrocks Nero d’Avola 2014 Low tannin not great depth concentration black fruits light  only planted 2007 young

Artwine Montepulciano Leave Your Hat On 2015 dark wine  packed full of dark cherry fruit dark plums spice good backbone med tannin length

Matara kilkanoon 2013 Good intensity black fruit med tannin good balance acidity sl savoury

 

The day was still young.  The iconic Wendouree and an evening dinner at Skillagolee was yet to come ….

 


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Wine Australia Tour November 2016 – Barossa Valley (II)

Barossa is home to some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world dating back to the 1840’s.They are typically full bodied with ripe plush tannins.The very best examples moderate this natural richness with balanced acidity and focused pure fruit character .Shiraz is the Variety of the region and occupies 50% of plantings , but there are significant Cabernet Sauvignon plantings especially in the cooler sites.Grenache is also popular either as a single varietal or blended with Shiraz and Mourvedre.

Barossa Old Vine Vineyard Visits and Tastings hosted by the Barossa Grape & Wine Association

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Langmeil winery  has the worlds oldest surviving Shiraz vineyard from 1842.Langmeil started by Christian Auricht fleeing Persecution in Prussia.

2014 Jackamans Cabernet Sauvignon 1960 planting 2 tonnes per acre low yield,Mint cassis spice length smooth lovely tannins

2014 Orphan Bank Shiraz  beautiful transplanted vines, saved from developers bulldozer,  dates  from 1858  perfumed nose,chocolate spice concentrated  finish of candied sweets

The Freedom Shiraz 2014 from 1843 vines !Smoky toasty blueberry complex herbs sage leaves dried  delicious long +++ complex savoury and herbacous  wow !! Trophy wine

The Freedom Shiraz 1998 Some tertiary leather spice herbs lighter colour

Kalleske old vine Grenache 2015 wild yeast open fermenters old oak rose floral raspberry sweets on finish soft chalky tannins beautiful finish and balance

Kalleske old vine Shiraz 2009 single vineyard from 1875 low yield unirrigated organic biodynamics open fermentation wild yeast 2 yrs barrel.Dark fruit savoury meat charm elegant length +++ amazing wines all.

 

Elderton vineyard  with Cameron and Allister Ashmead

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Elderton 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Ashmead 1870 cab vines.Plum spice cedar cigar box tobacco mint soft chalky tannins

Elderton 2014 cab sav  Ashmead

Liquorice herbaceous cassis hint green bell pepper soft chalky tannins length ++++ goes on and on sustaining very well made

Elderton Command 2002 single vine 1894

Mocha leather tobacco herbaceous 100 new oak French turmeric nutmeg spice floral on finish fine silky tannins

Elderton 2012 Command cassis liquorice long spicy finish pepper chocolate

 

Torbreck with Scott Mcdonald Winemakerimg_0630

Torbreck Runrig 2006  Shiraz viognier not coferment 2.5 yrs French oak  50% new herbaceous medicinal creosote cough syrup spice soft mouth coating ripe tannins sustained long spicy finish

Torbreck Runrig 2013 as above current release chocolate coffee black fruit liquorice complex full bodied incredible concentrated depth

Schwarz wine company

Old bastard Kaesler Shiraz 2013

Mineral plaster limestone blackberry sl lactic blueberry soft velvety ripe tannins long and complex

Old bastard 2010 1893 almost black initially closed opened up with black fruits and pepper good backbone soft chalky tannins admirable structure and balance hint of cocoa on finish.Old vine as no phylloxera.Long roots low yield

The Schiller 2014 Shiraz sl composty nose earth animal meaty savoury low tannins soft

Toby St Hallett old block 2013 made since 198o oldest 1870 up to 1906 vines.Floral sweet cherry bright red fruit seamless soft velvety tannin

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Cirillo  Marco 2011 ancestor old vine Grenache   Med body red floral lifted fruits perfumed elegant nose wild strawberry raspberry rose soft silky tannins beautifully integrated long long finish balance superb oldest producing Grenache vineyards in world

1848 Cirillo old vine sémillon Sandy citrus crisp hay wet crisp acid

1853 Hewitson  Barossa Mourvèdre 2013 Med ruby,star anise spice soft silky tannins lovely balance length spice nutmeg turmeric herbal  rosemary

 

 

Jane Ferrari met us at the Cirillo vineyards and gave us a history lesson of Barossa. img_0690

Jane has great enthusiasm for the region  and explain how lots of  old plantings were initially for fortified wine to supply the  British empire.

Yalumba nursery –  We took part in Omega Grafting joining rootstock to desired cuttings.

Tasted 3 clones Shiraz made same way exactly Bvovs10 115 yr old,Bvov 60 yr old, Bvov age unknown

and discussed therole of epigenetics passing on features, changing RNA/DNA by external factors.

 

 

Heggies lunch by the lake with Peter Gambetta and winemakers-Chardonnay  and Riesling Masterclass.

Another gourmet lunch in the most serene setting. The wine selection of the highest precision and quality

 

 

 

img_0749Heggies Chardonnayimg_0745

2013, 2010, 2006, Reserve 2006

Pewsey vale Riesling

2016 and Contours 2011

 

 

 

Yalumba  Cooperage tour and Cabernet-Shiraz blends tasting.

A discussion on why blend ? Cab sav needs support /Lots Shiraz available gives mid palate richness/Mid palate depth when young.

Yalumba the scribbler 2013 Goat cheese animal soft chalky tannins simple not much length intensity

Yalumba the signature 2013 premium blend   Cassis cedar blueberry chalky tannin young

Yalumba the signature 2006 Concentrated dried fruit nose cassis prune violet floral pepper smooth long depth soft sl chalky tannins long raisin finish sprinkling cocoa powder +

Yalumba FDR1A 2012 Gamey nose blueberry tannins chalky Med plus intensity young needs time

Yalumba FDR1A 2008 Cassis chocolate violet liquorice herbal soft tannins length cedar leather,Change from densely extracted powerful dark wines to lighter style fragrant purity

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This had been a full day so far but was still in it’s infancy as we then headed North to Clare Valley and a memorable dinner with Peter Barry and family ….

Reflections on the day

Old vine wines really are worth all the hype .

Tasting wines in the vineyard adds to the experience and is a great idea.

I was surprised to see eminent wine tasters order and served coffee during a tasting.

Quality of wine is important but quality of company is more , Peter Barry is a hoot, have a box of funny hats available at dinner parties, full details to follow in the  Clare valley review…..

 


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Wine Australia Tour 2016 – Barossa Valley (I)

There is a strong history and legacy of fortified wine production in Barossa , made in much smaller quantities today.Tawny styles are most common but a full range including sherry styles exist . Seppeltsfield produces stunning examples,their 100 year old para liqueur is world class. A visit to Henschke in Eden Valley and the world renowned Hill of Grace Vineyard one of the oldest single vineyard sites in Australia revealed some of the finest wines of the tour.

Seppeltsfield

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Seppeltsfield was established in the Barossa Valley by Joseph and Johanna Seppelt, emigrants of Silesia, just 15 years after the European settlement of South Australia. It was family run until  1984  and returned to private ownership under Warren Randall in 2007. Wine production started  again in 2010

 

 

 

A fascinating tour of the estate included evidence of their own distillery ,vinegar production,Italianate gardens with rows of tropical Phoenix Canaries date palm trees , gravity fed winery built in 1888 with  120 open fermenters,the centennial cellar img_0426with an unbroken lineage of Tawny, every vintage from 1878 to current year.It’s only winery in the world to release a 100 year old single vintage wine each year.We also explored  the vast solero nursery cellars containing a whole range of Apera.

 

 

 

img_0437Tasting notes

Dp 117 dry flor apera aged 7 yrs green  olive salty mineral nutty bone dry hay Long. palomino

DP 116 aged flor apera 16 yrs amontillado style med sweet 24 g/l salty savoury nuts walnuts  biological and oxidative palomino

DP rich rare apera 18 yrs 3.6 Baume all oxidative palomino Grenache citrus walnuts long finish sl lower ph

 

Para grand tawny GSM 10 yrs brandy spirit fortified small oak smooth sweet long toffee coffee raisin 9 Baume

DP57 grand tokay 10 yrs min muscadelle small oak ageing lovely nose tea leaf++Toffee sweet smooth raisins long  picked 18 Baume fortified high strength neutral to 17% luscious 230 g/l

DP63 Grand Muscat brown Muscat 10 years min,aromatic rich fruit cake

Next the highlight of the morning, a visit to the Century cellar …

We chose the barrel with  our birth year, unhappily giving away my age I crept to the

1968  Port Prune raisin toffee thick viscous luscious coffee fruit cake img_0452

clove antique stoor smell rancio spice

1916 100 yr old port wow very viscous tar like rich Cardamom,

clove ,antique furniture, leather, spice, luscious coating glass

Lunch followed at Fino in the gardens surrounded by  the most alluring aroma of orange blossom.

 

 

Visit to Henschke,  Eden Valley.

Eden Valley is higher than Barossa valley at 400-500m, the ripening  is one to two weeks later, the wines may exhibit more distinctive varietal flavours and  higher acidities

img_0468Tasting in Julius room with Stephen Henscke

Julius Riesling  2016 from 1952 plantings

2016 drought year crisp lemon lime blossom

Julius Riesling 2004 wow,petrolic nose lemon, lime intensity palate rich texture and persistence

continentality, diurnal variation keeps aromatics lime character Eden may have greater ageing

Croft Chardonnay 2015

Restrained pineapple, subtle citrus pear, apple hint vanilla from 25% new oak sl more texture Adelaide hills higher cooler good acid core

Giles Pinot Noir 2014 Adelaide hills1/3 new oak.Beautiful nose wild strawberry and raspberry compote floral rose Lilly herbaceous fine soft tannins long focused finish

Henry’s seven 2015 Mix Shiraz Grenache Mataro Viognier, cherry spiced plums dried marjoram herbs pepper floral violets elegant lighter style fine silky tannins

Keyneton Euphonium 2013 cab sac Shiraz merlot cassis blackberry menthol eucalyptus sage cedar liquorice pepper spicy black palate same long fine silky tannins

Cyril Henschke 2012 78 cab sac 15 cab franc 7 merlot blackcurrant Leaf cassis cedar cigar box floral violets long silky fine grained tannins length persistence rich texture great +++

Cyril Henschke 2002 75 cab sav, cab franc and merlot .Double decanted pronounced  smell as poured .powerful aromas cassis violets floral savoury meat blood long +++ wow

Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2012 100 % 100 yr old Shiraz vines pronounced nose cassis menthol blueberry ripe plum bay leaf cedar black pepper long velvety tannins soft textured length opened 24 hrs ago

Hill of Grace 2010  App 700 dollars per bottle  100% shiraz pre phylloxera from mid 1800’s. 65% new 35% seasoned hogsheads for 18 months.Dark complex spices pepper 5 spice exotic liquorice sage cedar crushed herbs  bay leaf menthol long silky fine grained tannins

We drove out to the  Hill of Grace Vineyard , single vineyard shiraz ancestor Vines dating from 1860’s.

We were allowed entry only after our  feet were dipped in anti-phylloxera mixture. Prue is responsible for the meticulous, innovative viticultural management incorporating organic techniques , biodynamic composts , native grasses ,flower gardens and an insectaria.

 

Evening party hosted by  John and Jan Angas at Hutton Vale Farm.

In attendance Prue and Stephen Henschke , Kin Teusner (Teusner) , Peter schell (Spinifex),Brett Grocke (Esperosa)

Ben Radford (Rockford)

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