Nestled below woodland on the gentle slopes of the Surrey Hills is Albury Organic Vineyard.
The dynamic Alex Valsecchi manages the estate with her team where they grow organically, biodynamically and use regenerative viticulture practices to make wine as sustainably and environmentally friendly as they can.
Alex admits that she and Nick Wenman, the owner, must be ‘a bit mad’ to take on the challenge of growing wine in this way in the damp and fickle English climate.
But really what they’re doing is showing just what amazing results can be achieved when you have a vision (no doubt determination and a lot of hard work come into it too!).
On a sunny day the vineyards are idyllic. A carpet of flowering clovers, herbs, legumes, orchids, yarrows, grasses and even wild strawberries, which are all native to the chalk hills of Surrey, has been allowed to colonise the space between the vine rows.
This along with a wildlife pond and wild flower meadow creates a diversity of habitats for beneficial insects and wildlife.
By having diverse plants with their roots in the ground and by using only light tillage, Alex’s aim has also been to improve soil health and biodiversity below ground.
All this is on London’s doorstep and Albury welcome volunteers through the season to help out in the vineyard and experience it all first hand.
I spent a day in July helping leaf strip and green harvest in the newest section of the vineyard. Planted in 2022 these young vines need this type of tough love to strengthen them up for the future.
I can thoroughly recommend joining in and there’s a refreshing glass of Seyval Blanc fizz (tasting note bellow) and some lunch to keep you going. Harvest will most likely be in the first two weeks of October and will be an amazing opportunity to get in involved. You can sign up on their website.
Albury Estate Seyval Blanc 2021
Very pale, with fine bubbles. Blossom, hawthorn, jasmine, lemon verbena, green and yellow apple, pear, quince, thyme and a lovely touch of biscuit and croissant. Crisp acidity but rounded out by the apple & pastry flavours which linger nicely. Invigorating and Refreshing at a pleasing 11%.
The onset of 2024 has left me reflecting on my inherent Francophilia. This got the better of me towards the end of last year. I had been meaning to visit Alsace for years. It took so long partly because of my preference for red wine and more recently due to Covid.
My favourite varietal though is Gewürztraminer. This is very much a marmite love or hate grape. For me it’s love. The most textured, succulent, floral powerhouse of a wine I’ve ever tasted was a Matawherho Gewürztraminer from Gisborne in New Zealand. It was an early 1990’s vintage tasted at a masterclass with my boss of the time Dr David Durham at his home next to Cloudy Bay, Marlborough New Zealand in 1995.
The 1976 Hugel Gewürztraminer with a nose distinctly reminiscent of cannabis was a highlight of many years of wine tasting.
This grape has mesmerised me since. I also have great appreciation of the other white Alsatian varieties. Well made Pinot Gris is also beautifully textured and aromatic. Riesling whilst not my first go to drink due to its high acidity playing havoc with my gastrointestinal equilibrium is still a wine I highly regard.
So I finally made it to Alsace, and the wait was worth it. Not only for the wines but for the delightfully preserved chocolate box towns and villages such as Colmar, Riquewihr and Ribeauville. It really feels like an amalgamation of France and Germany as its geography and history suggest.
I stayed in central Colmar at the Hotel Le Colombier. This is very conveniently located centrally and for the electric bike store on the same street. This is an excellent way to explore the region as there are many dedicated wine cycle routes throughout the area.
I wasn’t wild about the food, quite pork base and Germanic. They do an interesting pizza type of thing called a Tarte Flambee in French and FlammeKueche in German.
It was the first day of the Rugby World Cup so the flight was awash with excited fans.
I’d had also long wished to visit Chateau Coutet in Barsac having met Aline Baly on many occasions in London. I’m also a fan of dessert wines, again not everyone’s taste. Aline was in Paulliac but generously arranged the Maitre du Chai, Laurier Girardot to entertain us.
We started in the vineyards surrounding the pristine opulent Chateau.
Laurier discussed the terroir, which is slightly different to Sauternes and a little further from the River Garonne. The style here being a little less unctuous than Sauternes and perhaps less botrytis. They also make a dry white. The wines as ever, were finely balanced, long and delicious with complexity evident in older vintages.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Next up a flight to Marseille, en route to another region I’ve longed to visit, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
It’s one thing reading about the ‘Galets’ (larger pebbles/ smooth rocks) which are characteristic of the area. it’s another thing to see them. The entire vineyards are literally covered with layers of Galets with virtually no soil evident. These rocks have been washed down from the Alps over millions of years dating to when the area was the bed of the Rhone river.
Beaucastel were in the midst of the most fascinating new build. They had a competition amongst world renowned architects who tendered for the job. It was finally won by and Indian based firm. In keeping with Beaucastel organic and biodynamic sustainability, the new structure is being built with products of excavation.
The excavated earth for the new cellar is gently crushed and then taken to a large vertical mold and compressed. This creates the large slabs to build the new winery. It already looks amazing and effortlessly blends in with the environment.
We tasted the 2008 and 2019 Beaucastel and also a 100% Roussane of which little is made. The wines as expected were spotlessly balanced and full of fine grained tannins.
I was impressed by the Chateau Mont Redon range, especially with their most moderately priced Lirac which is full of fruit but also has a lovely mouthfeel. I have been buying en primeur Mont Redon from the wine society for many years.
Final visit of the day was to a very welcoming and passionate Antoine at Chateau La Nerthe.
He gave us the historical background. There have been grapes here since Roman times. More recently they were one of the pioneers of the Appelation Controlle system
This a stunning chateau with views reaching far and wide. We toured the cellars and we were lucky enough to witness a live ‘remontage’ and sample 4 day old Mourvèdre from the tank. It was surprisingly delicious given its age.
Wine tasting here can be a little confusing as 13 grape varieties are permitted.
6 white grape varieties: Grenache blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Picardan. Grenache blanc, a mutation of Grenache noir, is the most commonly used grape variety. Red grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Vaccarèse, Terret, Counoise, Muscardin.
We tasted a range of their wines including
Château la Nerthe 2014 Clos de Beauvenir – it had an oxidised nose, almond, nice freshness and texture Good food wine
Château la Nerthe Barrel sample, Syrah amazing for only 4 weeks old! Full of fruit Soft tannins Delicious!!!
2020 Château la Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 25% Mourvèdre, Balanced, good year, plenty of fresh fruit alcohol well integrated
2019 Château la Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape . 35 %Mourvèdre Syrah 31 %Grenache 33 % about a third each A bit more serious than 2020 and probably need more ageing to develop complexity
2020 Château la Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes which is made from their best grapes 9.000 bottles only GSM blend
2019 Château la Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape Cadettes 55 % Mourvèdre floral earthy savoury serious big wine.
Antoine then brought out a blind wine which I immediately described as Pinotesque. I was happy to be correct in my deduction that it was one of their very limited production 100% Grenache.
This tasting was one of the highlights of many years of different wine trips. Thanks to @bossofthewine, Bruce Baldinger and the New Yorkers. We had serendipitously met them on the tour of the old Synagogue in Carpentras the day before and tagged along to this visit.
Finally I must not forget the opulent Chateau La Coste in Provence. It was a short drive south from our accommodation in Lourmarin through the beautiful countryside towards Aix en Provence near the village of Le Puy-Sainte – Reparade.
This is a real destination owned by Irish property magnate Paddy Mckillen. It has its own art and architecture walk, 600 acre sculpture park, a luxury hotel Villa La Coste multiple very high end restaurants and excellent wine.
Despite the breadth and depth and quality of wines across the world, there’s nothing quite like returning to La Belle France!
Jerez de la Frontera, so named as the boundary between warring Christians and Moors in the 13th Century is the home of bodegas Valdespino. And just look at this amazing cellar, in the dim light and controlled moisture haze it seems to go on as far as the eye can see!
This is where the solera for the excellent Inocente Fino and the Tio Diego Amontillado live. Both contain wine made from the highest point of the Macharnudo Alto single vineyard.
Doors to the west open to allow the cool Poniente breeze in
The best vineyards in the sherry triangle have Albariza soils which are a mix of limestone, silica and clay. These soils absorb moisture in the winter and then form a crust during the dry growing season retaining moisture and slowly releasing it to the vines. The gently sloping vineyards have a series of troughs, called Asperpia, worked into them to catch water and let it soak into the soil.
The Macharnudo Alto vineyard has a little more elevation than elsewhere and so catches the cooling Poniente breeze from the Atlantic and the albariza soils here contain a particularly high level of limestone both contributing to more concentrated grapes.
In the cellar the solera systems sit side by side each with 10 criadera and the final tier of solera. The Inocente barrels all contain flor and as with all Finos the resulting wine has been fully matured under a layer of yeast. Wine is removed for bottling from the bottom solera layer, where the wines are oldest, each spring and autumn when the flor is thickest. The wines therefore have an average age of around 10 years. The barrels in the solera are then topped up successively each from the criadera above it until new wine is added to the first set of barrels. The nutrients within the fresh wine added helps to feed the flor yeast and keep it alive.
The first three criadera of the Tio Diego Amontillado solera system have flor and then more spirit is added fortifying the wines up to 17% ABV which kills it off. The wine matures in the remaining layers of the solera oxidatively resulting in a wine with both yeasty flor character and nutty, caramel type notes and a of course a darker colour. There is more evaporation without the floor and so the abv rises by another few degrees. Wine is only drawn off the solera once a year meaning that the average age of the Tio Diego is more like 17-18 years.
There is one other wine connected with these soleras and that is the Palo Cortado. Every now and then the wine maker recognises that one or two of the barrels ‘want to be’ Palo Cortado. It may be that the flor has died or the barrel displays some extra concentration or individual character. These barrels are moved over to join the Palo Cortado solera producing Viejo C.P. or even the PC VOS (Very Old Sherry).
There are 11 layers within these solera systems and there are 70 barrels in each making 770 in total. This sounds like a lot but less than 40% is taken out each year and with an average age of 10 and 17 years respectively it takes a lot of time and space not mention care and attention to make these fantastic wines.
At BioWeingut Karl Renner, nestled in the rolling hills of Pössnitz in the Südsteiermark, sustainability is at the very heart of everything they do. For Karl and his family, who have stewarded this land since 1966, the focus is clear: create wines of character with minimal intervention, and protect the land for future generations.
But even for the most committed organic growers, nature presents challenges. Karl points to oidium and downy mildew as the most persistent threats to viticulture in the Südsteiermark. These fungal diseases, brought to Europe in the 19th century, remain the main reason why vineyards, even organic ones, require frequent treatments. In some seasons, up to 20 copper sulphate sprays are needed to try and keep disease at bay. “It’s too much,” says Karl. “It leaves copper in the soil which builds up over time.”
That’s why Renner is turning toward PIWI or as he calls them “next generation” varieties, fungus-resistant hybrids bred to thrive with far fewer treatments. Since 2011, he’s been gradually replanting his vineyards with these innovative grapes, which make organic viticulture not only more effective but also more appealing for wider adoption in the wine industry.
The four main PIWI varieties Karl works with are:
Muscat Bleu – A mid-budding, early-ripening variety, Muscat Bleu is highly aromatic and serves as an early indicator in the vineyard: its berries turn a vivid blue before ripening to black. This allows Karl to closely monitor ripeness progression in the vineyard.
Chardonel – A hybrid of Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc, first developed in New York in 1953, Chardonel delivers both structure and finesse. It captures the familiar elegance of Chardonnay but thrives under organic management.
Souvignier Gris – A cross between Seyval Blanc and Zähringer, Souvignier Gris is one of Karl’s standout performers. It ripens later and retains excellent acidity. It also has some frost resistance.
Muscaris – This cross between Solaris and Gelber Muskateller produces an early-ripening, highly aromatic wine. Muscaris stands out for its expressive floral and spicy notes, making it useful for both varietal bottlings and blends.
These varieties are allowing Karl to dramatically reduce chemical inputs. Where conventional or even organic growers might spray upwards of 15–20 times per season, Renner’s PIWI vines typically need only 2–4 treatments. That reduction means less soil compaction from tractors, lower CO₂ emissions, and healthier microbial life in the vineyard. Cover crops further enhance soil structure and biodiversity, especially on the estate’s steep slopes.
In the winery there is a lot to learn, the wine making knowledge for the varieties traditionally grown; Sauvignon Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay) and Pinot Blanc, that has been accumulated over generations must be learnt anew for this New Generation of varieties. Karl is experimenting with skin contact, barrel ageing, and unfiltered bottlings to explore the full potential of these newer grapes. He’s also trialling blends that include both PIWI and traditional varieties, giving wine drinkers something familiar while showcasing the potential of these robust hybrids.
Tasting notes:
Thirsch Chardonel 2020
Thirsch: historical name of the farm. First vintage 2011, still experimental.
Aged 2 years in barrel for stability.
Smoky, orange peel, peach, apricot, herbal and nutty notes.
Fermented on skins: Muscaris 2–3 weeks, Souvignier Gris 3 months.
Separate harvest dates.
Pear, banana, cider notes.
Slightly grippy mouthfeel, long finish.
At Weingut Renner, the message is clear: PIWI varieties represent a practical, scalable solution for making organic viticulture more successful. As climate change, disease pressure, and sustainability demands intensify, Karl’s approach offers a compelling model for other growers — not just in Austria, but across Europe and beyond.
As wine drinkers are we ready to expand our horizons and discover these new wines? Natural wines have found an audience, why not “next generation” varieties too?
Gelber Muskateller is the golden-skinned member of the ancient Muscat family. Aka Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains. It is popular as a delicious summer aperitif in Austria and there is no better way to start an evening in a Heuriger off.
As you would expect from its parentage it has vibrant aromatics, floral, spicy, and citrus-tinged notes and is made into light, dry wines with real verve. Though often overshadowed by other varieties, its heritage runs deep, tracing back to the Mediterranean and among the oldest cultivated grapes. In Austria, plantings have steadily increased since the late 20th century, overtaking Muscat Ottonel in quality perception.
Enjoyed here in the courtyard of the Gabriel Heurige in Rust.
In the northern stretches of Piedmont, the DOCGs of Roero, Gattinara, and Ghemme offer a quieter yet distinctive take on the region’s hallmark grape, Nebbiolo. In Roero, sandy soils on the western bank of the Tanaro yield reds that are typically more perfumed and earlier-drinking than their Langhe cousins.
Gattinara and Ghemme, by contrast, lie further north in the Alpine foothills, where volcanic and alluvial soils produce wines of structure and longevity. Here, Nebbiolo, locally known as Spanna, just add a bit of confusion, is often blended with Vespolina or Bonarda to add spice and softness. Fermentation is typically followed by long aging, often in large neutral oak, allowing the grape’s natural tannins to settle and complex aromas to emerge. These are wines of precision and heritage, less showy than Barolo or Barbaresco but with a depth that rewards patient exploration.
It was great to visit Travaglini in Gattinara, Alto Piemonte and taste the lovely Nebbiolo wines this estate produces.
Their sparkling Metodo Classico Nebole a Blanc de Noir of 100% Nebbiolo was a wonderful surprise of honey, smoke and white flowers. They make this from the green cuttings off the grape bunches traditionally done to concentrate the remaining grapes for the red wine.
The Gattinara and Reservas also a delicious meld of soft red fruits, pot purri and balsamic notes. Look out for their distinctive bottle shape designed to act like a decanter and hold any sediment back when pouring!
Well worth looking out the wines of Gattinara, Ghemme and Boca Alto Piemonte regions.
Perched on the edge of the old Saxon shoreline in Appledore, Kent, Gusbourne Estate makes a compelling argument for the quality and potential of English wine. With 60 hectares under vine here and another 30 in West Sussex, Gusbourne has focused on a clear ambition since planting its first vines in 2004: to produce vintage wines of the highest calibre using only estate-grown fruit.
The vineyards are planted with Burgundian clones of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, varieties well suited to the region’s unique microclimates. Yields are deliberately kept low, resulting in grapes of concentration and character. These form the foundation of a range that includes both still and sparkling wines, all made using traditional methods with a low-intervention ethos that carries through from vine to bottle.
A visit to the estate offers more than a picturesque setting. The winery tour is well-structured and informative, culminating in a tasting that includes the rare opportunity to sample base wines before moving on to the finished sparklers. This provides a valuable insight into the effects of lees ageing, adding texture and biscuity complexity, and how dosage lifts the bright citrus notes that are a hallmark of the house style.
Among a strong portfolio, the Blanc de Blancs 2018 stands out for its precision and poise. It’s joined by a limited series of museum releases and small-batch cuvées, including vintage Blanc de Meunier, all reinforcing Gusbourne’s position at the premium end of the market. The still wines, notably the Guinevere Chardonnay, demonstrate real depth and finesse, and make a persuasive case that 51 degrees north is no longer a viticultural outlier.
The weekends impending champions league final reminded us it was exactly a decade on to the day from our last wine trip to Piemonte.
We spent the May weekend of 2012 in Barolo and were escorted through the region by Roger Barlow of Gerard Seel.
This time to Barbaresco, facilitated by our friend Mehul, a serious Italophile and lover of wines of this region.
The plan was to get a blind tasted overview of the 2019 vintage at Barbaresco a Tavola, then to indulge in the food and wine culture of Piemonte. We had arranged a few select winery visits.
Piemonte is renowned for 3 main red varietals, Nebbiolo of course, Barbera and Dolcetto. Their 3 main white grapes are Arneis. Cortese and Cortese.
We concentrated on Nebbiolo wines. They can be difficult to appreciate young due to their high tannins and acidity and the wines need patience.
The Produttori del Barbaresco was founded in 1958. They now have 51 members and more than 100 hectares of Nebbiolo vineyards in Barbaresco. It is conveniently located in the small village of Barbaresco and wines can be tasted by just dropping in. They are well known for producing high quality and more affordable Barbaresco
Lange Nebiolo 2020.
On the nose: Aromatic, herbs, cut strawberry.
In the mouth: Nice balance, dusty tannin, fruit structure, medium in length. Approachable already. 14 euro very nicely made
Barbaresco 2018
On the nose a little volatile, rose, macerated strawberry, pot pourri
In the mouth: good balance, full body, sweet juicy fruit, little hot on end.
Barbaresco 2017.
Herbaceous nose, cinnamon, red tart fruit, cherries.
On the mouth: Rounded fruit, elegant structure, good fruit concentration, slightly puckering youthful tannin, long finish. Very good.
The 2019 although only recently bottled showed as one of the top 6 wines at the Tavola tasting. Confirming the consistent quality of the wines here.
The winery produces 50,000 bottles per annum and is 100% organic, The Ada Nada farmhouse is located in Treiso, near Alba. They have a beautiful Agroturismo with a lovely outdoor swimming pool with panoramic views of the rolling hills.
Cento
Golden green colour, made from 100% Nebbiolo. Grapes are green harvested then the wine is made following a method traditional and the aged for 24 months on lees.
On the nose citrus, lime zest, orange peel some cream, in the mouth sherbet, finishing slightly abruptly. Fresh and fun.
Dilva
This is another 100% Nebbiolo method classic but this time with zero dosage. Made with skin contact and fermented in barrique then and aged for 60 months on lees. The wine is not long enough in barrique to impart a woody character but allows micro oxygenation.
This is a more serious fizz. On the nose: toasted brioche, toffee, flint and smoke. In the mouth stewed spiced apple, nutty, long and persistent, slightly drying from a dusting of pleasant tannin which counteracts the citrus finish.
Neta Sauvignon Blanc 2021.
Grown on north facing slopes.
On the nose a touch of grass, green pepper, concentrated confected pear drops.
In the mouth rich ripe candied citrus, well balanced but finishes a touch warm.
Lange nebiollo Serena 2021
Made in Barbaresco but from youngest vineyard where the vines are 18 yrs old the wine is made to be approachable and for earlier drinking.
Nose: red cherries, raspberries, dried cherries, light herb.
On palate: strawberry chew, chewy tannin, a well made great food wine.
Classic Barbera Pierin 2020
made in large oak 2 year
Nose: Dark cherries, a whiff of polish, touch of sawdust then strawberries, ripe fruit, voilets. In the mouth blackberry as well as juicy red fruit, medium acidity, fuller body, medium length. Tasty! another good quaffing wine.
Barbaresco Valeirano 2019.
The vines here are over 50 years old.
Nose: Mint, bay leaf, celery, cut strawberry, herb, then floral notes. A delicate and complex nose.
In the mouth: medium plus body, tart cherry, savoury meat, liquorice, herbs. Elegant long excellent!
Barbaresco Rombone Elisa 2018. This vineyard was planted in 1947.
Nose: more expressive, soft red fruit, baked strawberry fruit tart, spices, touch of polish and scent of pot purri.
In the mouth: Full bodied, savoury, cooked fruit, sweetness then a ton of tannin, fine grained. The finish is dry but with a line of fruit that persists.
Barbaresco Cichin Reserva 2017.
Spends 3 years in large oak botti and 2 years in bottle before release. From the rombone vineyard planted in 1958.
The wine maker naturally concentrates the wine by letting 20% of the juice run off and leaving the rest to macerate and ferment on the skins.
On the nose: Leather, perfume, pot purri, polish, orange peel, incense very complex.
In the mouth: Rich, spice, leather, orange peel, firm present tannin but drinking. Very long excellent!
A memorable tasting hosted by the passionate Jeff at Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco
The Cisa Asinari estates of the Marchesi di Grésy include four wineries located in the Langhe and Monferrato region.
2020 Marchesi di GrésyLanghe sauvignonblanc
Flinty smoky slightly sulfurous, reduced,. Bottled 1yr, green gage, nuts, briny, 7-8 mth stainless steel on lees Greengage, green pepper, tart lemon, mineral dust coating in mouth. Fairly full bodied, good finish
2016 Marchesi di Grésy langhe sauvignon blanc
Darker colour Lemon curd, sweet top note of peaches, salty, floral Fuller body, hint of peach, yellow plum? Reminds me of white bordeaux, thought a blend with semillon great finish, excellent acidity
2019 Marchesi di Grésychardonnay
Pale Ripe pear, maybe a little peach, great wood influence, vanilla, bit of smoke and toast, stone Tart apple, peach, great acidity, but drying, very elegant
2015 Marchesi di Grésy Chardonnay
Coal smoke And toast, roasted hazelnuts, white flower, Caramel, lemon, mineral, really balanced and elegant, acidity, linear
2019 Marchesi di GrésyDolcetto Monte Aribaldo
Cherry linctus, dark and red, strawberry, stem, slightly burned nose, possible reductive Savory and tannic, tart cherry, slight bitterness, savoury finish, med acidity
2015 Marchesi di Grésy Montecolombo Barbera
Treated like a barbaresco Turmeric and cumin nose, dark cherry, vanilla, toffee, Dark cherry, really drying, super acidity, a little hot, herbaceous, quite tannic in gums
2011 Marchesi di GrésyVirtus Langhe Rosso – Cab Sauv and Barbara 40/60
Green pepper Black currant leaf dark cherry, Blackcurrant, good acidity and tannin, balanced, mid palate missing
2007Marchesi di Grésy Virtus Langhe Rosso – Cab Sauv and Barbara 40/60
Much more developed, great mix of the barbera linctus with blackcurrant leaf Mushroom to start on the nose Great ripe balanced, fantastic wine,long… love it
2004 Marchesi di GrésyVirtus Langhe Rosso – Cab Sauv and Barbara 40/60
Green pepper Black currant mushroom caramel vanilla Another great balanced wine, finishes v very cab, very beautiful
2018 Marchesi di GrésyBarbaresco Martinenga
Mixed vintage Muted nose, slightly floral And herbaceous woody notes, tart cherry Drying, good intensity and length not showing yet but had very good potential based on finish
2017 Marchesi di GrésyBarbaresco Martinenga Gaiun Made from specific plots on the outer edge of the Martinenga cru, bordering Asili
Dark cherry strawberry cream pot pourri, roses Drying, intense dried flower, incense, tart cherry, liquorice, finish forever long, sexy, complete, wine for the long term. 2016 Marchesi di GrésyBarbaresco Martinenga Gaiun
Darker Sandalwood, Rose, macerated strawberry, white truffle, sapid More concentration, fruit intensity, liquorice tobacco, finish goes on forever An epic wine for the long term. Touched something deep inside me, literally brought tears to my eyes
2016 Marchesi di GrésyCamp Gros Martinenga Riserva
12 mths small barrel 18mths large barrel, 3 yrs total 6900 btls made
Dried rose, sandalwood, pot pourris dried cherry orange peel, spice – fascinating nose Drying, tart, regal tannins, stony, tight. Not showing itself, wait another 5-10yrs for this to emerge.
This iconic winery needs little introduction. We were fortunate to be hosted by the Giovanni, Angelo Gaja’s son.
He gave us a great insight into the wines and the challenges ahead. We looked out of the palatial Gaja headquarters to where the River Tanaro should be. Instead we say a dry cracked river bed with no water in sight. The Tanaro had dried up which is a worrying sign of things to come.
We tried a selection of their wines all made to perfection. Mehul requested a bottle of Sori Tildin (one of my desert Island wines) A vintage 2001 was duly decanted. A fitting finale to a memorable weekend in Barbaresco!
Kirsty Harmon is a local girl turned renowned winemaker.
She grew up across the road of Blenheim and is well acquainted with the local scene.
Her first degree was in microbiology. She then worked as an event and wedding planner and worked for the previous owner of the Trump winery. She stayed on, ultimately becoming head of winemaking and general manager.
She Trained in enology at UCL Davis and won various scholarship for internships.
This took her to Craggy Range in Hawkes Bay New Zealand part of then Family of 12.
She also gained experience at Domaine Faivlely in Burgundy. She was the first intern there since 1837!
Dave Matthew a local celebrity in country music owns Blenheim and many of the labels have his colourful artistic designs.
It’s boutique winery producing 5 to 8 000 cases.
Kirsty with her microbiology background initially had a service lab for testing wines and helped out local wineries.
She has pioneered her wines all under screw cap, somewhat unusual for the US, but having worked in New Zealand and learned of its merits prefers this method of closure.
Blenheim Sauvignon Blanc 2021
100% Sauvignon Blanc steel fermented
Aromatic
Somewhere between new and old world
Goooseberry reductive, some passion fruit and tropical nuances
Blenheim Albariño 2021
Peachy stone fruit
Saltiness mineral
Delicious Albariño very typical
Amazing it shows such typicity and saltiness after such a recent planting in such a new environment
Heavy red clay here with iron which I’d noted when I visited the Trump winery for lunch.
Blenheim gruner veltliner
An interesting story, it was planted very much by chance whentheir 800 vines of Teroldago didn’t bud and they were offered by the Gruner the nursery!
Slight gun flint
Lean reduced nice acidity
Blenheim Cabernet franc 2020
Interesting Fractal wine label especially liked by the mathematicians
Kirsty prefers to make lighter style red
Enjoys the fruitiness
Full of fruit
9 months barrels
Some whole cluster and natural carbonic
Painter Red Nlend
2019
Lots grapes fresh fruity blend
Tasting with Kirsty reminded me that the winemaking in this region is a mere 30 years old and they are very much finding their feet and don’t know yet exactly what’s going to work.
She has a great pioneer spirit and along with Albariño planting from Mencia in Galicia, (also has clay soils and high humidity).they have planted Garnega, Tempranillo Roussane and Gruner Veltliner are among many others being planted here.
It will be fascinating to see what the future holds. It certainly seems to be in good hands.
Jefferson vineyards
This is an historic site with vineyards first planted by Fillipo Mazzei,Italian architect with the backing of Thomas Jefferson whos Monticello estates is nearby.
Recent plantings date from 1981
I was kindly hosted by Chris Ritzcovan winemaker and met the current owner Attila.
This is Chris’s 10 th vintage. His father made home wine which may have sparked in him an interest.
He trained locally at the famous University of Virginia
Chris mentioned they have a lot of vintage variation and also described the challenges mentioned on other visits
Wines tasted
Jefferson Vineyard petit manseng 2021
Dry, Sugar gets high
Neutral oak
75 cases made (only 3 barrels)
Petit Manseng originally form Jurancon-aromatic, peach honey ginger
High acid
Lovely texture lees ageing
Good balance nice nutty feel almond
Great effort here and shows potential of this grape in the region.
Jefferson Vineyard estate reserve 2019
Viognier, barrel fermented for 9 months in new French oak barrels Petit Manseng 6%
Really rich, full bodied oily with stone fruits, apricot and peach
Slight bitter finish
Jefferson Vineyard 2019 Chardonnay
Barrel fermented 9 months in oak
25 years old vines
Lemon, some vanilla, butter, lees ageing new American, new French and Hungarian oak (lighter spicier influence than French or American)
Jefferson Vineyard 2017
Cabernet Franc
Great vintage, 9 months in oak barrels
Fruit bomb, blue fruits
Plenty of tannins
Mouth and gum tannins integrated, Not green or herbaceous
Jefferson Vineyard 2019 meritage
Merlot and Petit Verdot, cabernet franc Malbec
20 months in oak Hungarian French and American oak
Blue and black fruits good tannic structure
Quite drying tannins
May benefit from more time
Jefferson Vineyard Merlot Réserve 2019
Smooth tannins wrapped with fruit
Chocolate and plum slightly hot
Made with Older vines 100 % French oak
Chris is also growing some Tannat and shows the same enthusiasm for the region as fellow winemakers.
Summary
The wines from Virginia are somewhere between new and old world. They are quite European in style. They don’t have the opulence and power of California but they still have more fruit and aromatics than similar wine growing areas in Europe.
It still a young region and experimental.
The current notable varieties performing well are Chardonnay, Viognier, Petit Verdot . Cabernet Franc and Merlot.
However, watch out for new varietals including Albarinho, Petit Manseng and Nebbiolo.
I’d love to visit again and explore other areas, such as Rappahannock, an hour north of Monticello. Perhaps a few weeks earlier, in October to witness the full autumnal splendour.
