McLaren vale’s proximity to the ocean creates substantial meso-climate variation. The wide range of soils from terra rossa to sandy soils around Blewitt springs enable a range of wine styles. Shiraz is king with over 50% of total crush, whilst Cabernet Sauvignon shines in the cooler sites. Many old Grenache vines survive from the late 1800s and more recently there is tremendous experimentation with Mediterranean varieties.
First stop and our base for 2 nights was Serafino on Kangarilla Road. This beautiful property has majestic gardens, a lake, 200 year old gum trees, swimming pool, luxurious accommodation and an excellent restaurant. Maria Maglieri kindly whizzed me over in her sporty Audi to our first tasting.
Mark Lloyd planted Australia’s first sangiovese in 1985, which now comprises 10 per cent of Coriole’s estate output, beside other significant plantings of Barbera, Nebbiolo. There is a new wave of diversification of Australian wine noticeable in this region with a wide range of Mediterranean varietals being experimented.
We were treated to a selection of these wines over the most delicious lunch amidst Coriole’s lovely gardens.
Serafino Fiano 2016 lemon,pear nice texture touch of tannin, acid crisp. (This varietal is the one they’re tipping, it retains acid in a hot climate, small berries, good texture , good with Asian food and easy to pronounce!)
‘Grenache is our Pinot’ stated Steve from S.C.Pannel . Steve was clear about his philosophy of expressing the purity of the terroir and grape without any need for the interference of oak or fuller bodied styles. The wines tasted were light to medium bodied, lively juicy wild strawberry and rasberry scented fruit ,perfumed with a touch of spice. These wines really displayed their beauty and are very much the jewel in Mclaren Vale’s crown.
Ministry of Clouds 2015 Grenache red cherries fresh light
Noon eclipse 2015 sl cloudy perfumed rose, hint spice liquorice nutmeg turmeric changed over the hour
SC pannelGrenache fruits but also smoky meaty savoury rust blood
Yangarra Estate sandy soil bush vines ceramic eggs keeps it cool small cap min oxidation good tannin acid savouriness structure
Dinner followed, opposite the lovely Jennifer of the McLaren vale wine organisation.Another gourmet treat,with trays of sliced shoulder of lamb,pearl barley and selection of Grenache followed by local McLaren vale cheeses .
Reflections of the day.
The Aussies are refreshingly direct, friendly, welcoming, passionate and innovative. They appreciate comments and being open and verbal at tastings.
Watch this space for different varietals in future especially Fiano and Mencia .
Lighter more restrained terroir driven elegant wines .. it’s a young country so still finding their best sites and their feet.
My favourite wines of the tour notified by +/++/+++
Next stop Lipari , an hour by hydrofoil from Milazzo.
We decided on a sunset wine tasting . 30 hectares of bush vines in volcanic soil with panoramic views over the Aeolian Islands and sunset over Salina, Fillicudi and Alcudi
They have a modern winery with a bioenergetic cellar for minimal environmental impact , wind turbines to cool the cellar . Domes scattered amongst the vines with internal mirrors to light the cellar .
Grapes fall by gravity into immaculate clean stainless steel tanks .Experimental vines with alberelo vine pruning technique to allow maximal wind circulation from the sea as used by the Greeks .
The water is natural filtered through outdoor biofilter vegetation ,cellar construction using 2000 year old Greek techniques revealing 20000 years of layered rocks .We were treated to the most stunning sunset with panoramic views from 1000 ft above sea level.
Rose corinto Nero 60 Nero D’Avola40 saignee method Strawberry earthy hint of smokiness.Good acidity
Nero Ossidinia
Corinto Nero from Greece as Korinthiaki, small berries seedless only a few bigger grapes with seeds
Leather earthy mature spice
Malvasia Delle Lipari DOCOnly 3000 bottles made .Ripe apricots , orange , marmalade floral rich delicious sweet perfectly balanced with acidity long and complex ,5 to 8% Corinto Nero
Tranquil beautiful boutique hotel with organic farm and vineyard on the slopes of Etna . The restaurant Nerello high on a terrace overlooking the Meditteranean has an encyclopaedic wine list only serving Etna wines !
Cattarrato 2006 Tenuta delle terre nere
Honey , ginger , spices , mineral long complex finish
Frank Cornellison natural wine 2013 Munjebel Vigne Alte From ungrafted 100 year old Nerello Masacalese vines .
Fresh red fruit earth spice and a developing savoury umami note after 30 minutes decanting long complex
Salvo and Antonio Benanti now run the business. Streamlining it having taken over from their father Giusseppe.
Charming twins with a focus on the future . Making wines from all 3 slopes of Etna . North- Nerello Mascalese and East Carricante .
In 1995 they started making varietal Nerello Mascalese wines prior to that it was mainly used blending and exported must .
Carricante is Etna’s flagship white and the basis for Etna Bianco DOC
Pietramarina Etna Bianco superiore 2012 peaches flowers mineral salinity citrus like acidity
Biancodicaselle 2009 Honeyed candied ginger orange long smooth
The wines produced on these volcanic soils displayed a mineral edge and a hint of salinity with lifted aromatics. It’s no surprise that the wines of Etna are so highly regarded.
The Südsteiermark (Southern Styria)is a stunning region in south-east Austria. Here picturesque hills and valleys are carpeted in vineyards punctuated only by the occasional field of pumpkins and shady patch of woodland.
The region is perhaps Austria’s best kept wine secret with the vast majority of its wine is consumed on home turf & only a handful of pioneering producers exporting overseas. Südsteiermark’s premium wines are much appreciated by Viennese restaurants & wine collectors but I’m pretty sure that the majority of these tasty wines are consumed on site in the numerous wineries themselves that occupy prime hill top locations whilst enjoying picture postcard views and tucking into local culinary treats.
The region’s beauty really gives Tuscany a run for its money and offers a similarly seductive synthesis of food and wine and scenery. Whilst many serious wines are produced here wine is very much part of a wider offering.
Wineries have always been open to visitors serving their own wines in outdoor gardens overlooking the vineyards. Traditionally these Buschenschank (taverns) were only allowed to pour their own wines and serve food grown and made on the premises. However since I first visited the region 25 years ago Brettljause, a simple platter of cold meats, cheeses & pickled vegetables with rye bread, was pretty much the staple fayre. However menu’s in even the most basic Buschenschank have now been expanded to include such delights as fresh salads dressed with local pumpkin seed oil & the local speciality Stierische Backhendl (fried breaded chicken made from ‘happy’ local hens). Look out too for a range of super dishes made with Eierschwammerl (chanterelle mushrooms). Many of the wineries also let rooms on a bed and breakfast basis so that you can stay right in the heart of the action and there are an increasing number of boutique hotels with gourmet restaurants perched on prime spots for those seeking a bit more luxury.The Südsteiermark is best known wines for white wines and in particular Sauvignon Blanc which seems to sit in a satisfying spot somewhere between the steel & mineral of the Loire and the greater florality & fruitiness of New Zealand. Traditional whites include the fragrant & fresh early drinking Gelber Muskateller, a perfect aperitif especially when made into a sparkler, Welschriesling, another fresh food friendly white, Weissburgunder (Pinot blanc) with more body but good acidity and the perfect fit for Backhendl and of course a bit of Gruener Veltliner. Chardonnay seems to do well and often comes with a bit of oak too. There are also tasty reds too often blends of indigenous grapes like Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt with international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot.
The vineyards go up to about 400m above sea level and although continental enjoy a long ripening season thanks to an increasingly pronounced range between daytime and night time temperatures reaching up to 18 degrees towards harvest.
With so many Buschenschank and Weingut to visit each offering so much good eating and drinking the Styrian tourist board have helpfully joined the dots on the map up with a series of picturesque wine trails. The main Weinstraße runs from Leutschach to Gamlitz & Ehrenhausen. Running largely along a ridge it connects many of the best winemakers and the loveliest locations. Instead of driving the route far nicer choice is to ramble along one of the many walking routes also mapped out which allow one to pass right through the vineyards & by quaint farmhouses complete clucking chickens & vintage tractors.
However to cover a wider sweep of the area there is no better form of transport than the e-bike. Modern electric bikes flatten out the many steep hill climbs but take nothing away from the pleasure of rolling through this fabulous country side following part of the Weinstrassen Tour for bikes. Maps of all three types of trail are widely available and extremely well sign posted on the ground making it super user friendly.
Accommodation.
We’ve stayed in three places over the years and enjoyed them all:
Skoff Original, the home of Sauvignon Blanc and right on the spectacular Weinstraße. Stunning panoramic views & great food. http://skofforiginal.com/?lang=en
Hotel Gut Pössnitzberg. A stylish hotel with heated outdoor pool & cool glass box dining room overlooking the vineyards. The hotel is owned by the Polz Winery and there is a tasting of their wines, including some great traditional method fizz, for guests at 5.00pm each day. E bikes available. http://www.poessnitzberg.at/
Winzerhotel Wurzenberg is a modern hotel in a spectacular location but we haven’t visited it yet!
Places to eat:
All the above serve great food. However a visit to the Südsteiermark should definitely include a traditional spit and sawdust buschenschank.
There are many to choose from and it’s worth asking for a local recommendation. We enjoyed Eory Buschenschank. Great location, traditional fayre and friendly landlord.
This beautiful region surrounded by mountains in the heart of Italy is the perfect place to indulge .
For oenophiles, gastronomes and lovers of life there are few places better .
An easy direct Ryan Air flight from London delivers you to Perugia ,
a majestic medieval hilltop City with spectacular sweeping views of Umbria.
Luckily for me my great friend and trained Chef Simon
is spending a year on sabbatical and living in the heart of the old town.
He introduced me to the culinary delights of the region . We foraged along the banks of the Lago Trasimeno collecting the seasonal wild asparagus and with the local truffle Bianchetto made a Wonderful frittata .
Other highlights were his lamb and Rosemary, Bistecca alla fiorentina and Umbrian sausages all grilled on the open fire
and the best roast potatoes you could wishes for .
Highly recommended is restaurant Coccorone in the timeless hilltop medieval town of Montefalco .
Their paparadelle Al Sagrantino is unforgettable
followed by the Bistecca alla fiorentina served with a choice of eight types of salt !
Kitted out with the finest Bianchi hybrid bikes from Testi we set of for the hills and after a relatively flat 30 km arrived at the Arnaldo Caprai winery , world famous for putting Sagrantino wines on the modern map with innovative and exciting techniques and passion culminating in its very own DOCG Montefalco Di Sagrantino
We entered the stylish modern tasting room .
They work with university in Perugia to find best methods of viticulture, a tour of the
vineyards showed single and double cordon Guyot and other pruning mainly on clay soil .
The Sangiovese is matured in old Slavonian barrels , new and used French oak for Sagrantino
Wines tasted with Marco Caprai
Grecante grechetto 2015
peach, floral, hawthorn med acid med length a good starter .
Montefalco Rossi this is the bulk of production an Umbrian take on Chianti 70 sangiovese 15 sagrantino fresh red cherry, herbs med + tannins acid med length
Montefalco Rosso reserva tannin high and herbal liquorice garnet 2010
Collepiano 2010 100% sagrantino new oak ,Tannin herbal sl vegetal developing nicely .
Montefalco Sagrantino 25 2011 representing their finest selection .
2011 lovely , new oak ,vanilla chocolate coffee with spice herbs .A lovely structure balance high tannin but well integrated. Well made with lots of life in the bottle .
Montefalco Sagrantino Passito.
The classic original style of Sagrantino , dried grapes creating a wonderfully rich long desert wine full of aromas of figs prunes dates raisins , a fitting finale to any dinner .
After a short climb to Montefalco and lunch we dropped South West towards the unfortunately named Bastardo via
Cantina Novelli
Wines tasted Trebbiano spoletino In a classically Italian confusing way this is no relation to the Trebbiano grape !
aromatic floral gold oily texture aged on lees really a bargain for the price
Sangiovese had hints of red cherry ,the Rosso more Earthy with red fruits Sagrantino 2012 more complex with liquorice herbal high tannin long structure good long herbaceous nature sweetness .
The highlight of which we took a magnum was their 2007 Sagrantino which shows how well this can do with a few years of ageing to soften its high tannins.
We cycled back with the sun setting through the most glorious scenery .
I’m already dreaming of my next Umbrian Adventure !
My visit to this beautiful area, world-famous for it’s magnificent luscious Ice Wines
revealed other interesting wine discoveries.
Niagara-on-the-lake is an area of neatly manicured gardens, immaculate houses,
pristine clean cars , everyone is polite and considerate.
It reminded me of the film ‘The Truman Show’ !
I arrived as veraison commenced in Niagara Wine country paradise.
Vintners Quality Alliance Ontario VQA classifies Niagara-on-the -Lake as a distinct area .
There are four main terroirs. On the Niagara Lakeshore, sandy soils provide good drainage
and the temperatures are modified by the lake.
Along the Niagara river there are sandy soils and air currents modify the temperature.
Four mile creek lies below the escarpment with red shale soils with silt and clay.
St David’s Bench beyond the escarpment was carved by glaciers and has rich clay soils .
After a brutally cold winter approximately 15 % of vine loss had occurred, though due to microclimates
such as Konzelmann only 6% loss secondary to the lake effect only property.
First stop Riverview Winery cellars, 1339 Lakeshore road on the wine route along the Niagara river gorge, spectacular scenery after a morning at the falls.
Their Pinot Grigio fresh, pear, clean balanced .
Vidal ice wine pure nectar honey apricot floral wonderfully elegant
Ice wine from red grapes is very rare this Cabernet Franc was interesting.
Herbert Konzelmann remarkably at 78 yrs old is still the winemaker and owner .
They make a range of styles.
Wines tasted
Riesling light citrus lemon .
Gewurtztraminer 24 brix hint tropical fruit and lychee
Vidal ice wine- pure nectar mango lychee rich and fantastic.
Cabernet Sauvignon ice wine red fruits strawberries hint cassis.
Just down the road , Hinterbrook is a new winery 5 years old.
Jacob the assistant winemaker showed me around including the ozone cleaned cellar full of oak barrels.
Interesting finds were their unusual Franc blanc a white wine made from Cabernet Franc red grapes.
Then my namesake red wine ‘wanderlust’
The Riesling ice wine had a min sugar 125g/l less sweet than Vidal .
This is a larger set up producing 1.4 million bottles and has a sister winery in Okanaga BC.
Wines tasted
Sparlikng wine Method Champenoise, Brut from Chardonnay,Pinot noir and Riesling citrus ,fresh, fruity mineral.
Gewurtztraminer some floral aromas
Sauvignon blanc 2013 lovely fresh gooseberry floral
Pinot noir first vintage , chocolate vanilla some red fruit,good
Gewurtztraminer ice wine luscious delicious floral honey mango tropical fruit texture balance length 5 star my favourite wine so far , phenomenal !
Next stop, just prior to a massive rainstorm,Two Sisters
This is a new winery next to Peller , opened November.
Two sisters from an Italian family background who’s family are in the Toronto building trade.
This is a no expense spared Italianate palatial mansion.
The excellent restaurant, Kitchen 76 serves up fine fare with a huge open kitchen and Pizza oven.
Highly recommended for lunch or dinner with a beautiful outdoor terrace overlooking the vineyards
They make a lovely red blend , eleventh post, red cherries, plum,
hint of liquorice soft ripe velvety tannins smooth drinkable with pesto pizza with truffle and Bistecca .
Their Cabernet Franc 2010 is good, smoke hint of coal tar spice herbs . Carbonic Mac giving maximal extraction
I tried their two ice wines Riesling and the rare Cabernet Sauvignon Ice wine -red fruits, rhubarb, strawberry rich full length like sucking on a red fruit sweet the flavours persist , fantastic .
My final stop was Peller Estates. Part of Andrew Peller Limited
which includes many other brands including Trius,Wayne Gretzky, Sandhill and others it is the largest wine producer in Canada.
Recommended for their excellent wine portfolio and for lunch or dinner
outside on the patio amongst the vines is the Barrel House Grill.
Started with a lovely sparkling Rose from Gamay noir,Chardonnay and Pinot noir
with an ice wine dosage , lovely ripe peach and pomegranate .
Followed by
Gewurtztraminer had typical rose and spice but subtle .
Private reserve Pinot Noir with 9 months in the barrel – truffle, earth, pepper smoky, pomegranate and cherry
Private reserve Cabernet new oak ,plum, cherry, cocoa, vanilla and cassis.
Two fantastic Ice wines-
Gold Award winning Riesling, citrus lemon tangerine apricot beautiful balance long length delicious.
Cab Franc length ++++ sucking on sweets 230 g/l sugar, white currant,rhubarb strawberry, candy, molasses and pomegranate another gorgeous Ice wine.
Recommended Accomodation
Lakewinds Country Manor just fabulous , outdoor heated pool, Billiards table , delightful gardens , marvellous hosts Steve and Jane Book early !
The Niagara wine region is a real treat . The land is flat and easy for our usual wine tour transport,on bikes. The people incredibly friendly and accommodating.
Nearly all the wineries are on a walk in basis with regular tours and minimal fee tastings. Winery restaurants serve excellent meals often with lovely views And of course, above all, Ice wines to die for !
Montalcino was this year’s choice for the annual WanderCurtis Wine trip.
The biggest decision was not the location, but how to get there!
Travel Options:
Tuscany is easily accessible from London – Ryan Air to Pisa. BA or easy jet Florence. Ryan air Perugia. BA and Easy Jet to Rome. We arrived in Pisa Car Hire is easy, but note it is quicker to follow the red line from the airport than wait for the hot crowded rickety bus transfer, it’s only 500m.
We took the route via the coast then through classic Tuscany landscape. Olive groves, cypress trees, rolling hills, neatly manicured rows of Sangiovese, hilltop walled medieval towns, fields of wheat and corn with heady aromas of spring flowers. It is such a treat on all the senses.
Bike Hire -recommended e-biketuscany based in Pienza. Excellent range of very well maintained bikes and somewhat embarrassingly opted for the electric bikes on viewing the ascent to Montalcino!
The Fuligni Estate spreads over approximately one hundred hectares of land in an almost continual strip on the eastern side of Montalcino. The vines extend over ten hectares, are primarily located at Cottimelli at altitudes varying from 380 to 450 meters above sea level. We were given a vineyard tour and explanation of viticulture including: yields, cordon training, bunch restriction & green harvesting. Next stop just down the road to:
Met by Barbara this small property produces 60000 bottles and recently the 2010 received 100 points from Suckling . Vineyards, founded and planted 1970, are in both the north and the hotter southern area of Montalcino. Follow link for full wine review and tasting notes.
The most perfect host Agnes led us through a progressive barrel samples. We could sense the evolution from fresh ripe strawberry and cherry fruit onto more savoury, herbal, spicy & complex aromas through barrel age and blending of parcels. A truly memorable experience during which we were lucky enough to meet the owner & winemaker Andrea.
A much larger property. Nicola guided us through their excellent range over a wonderful lunch at Il Leccio showing us just what fantastic food wines Brunello & Rosso di Montalcino are. Beautiful gardens impressive winery buildings. Samples from huge 150 hectolitre Slovenian Barrels. Col d’Orcia welcomes guests to visit the winery and superb lunches featuring organic produce from the estate can be arranged.
The most enchanting garden with intoxicating aromas of orange and lemon blossom and the most beautiful Tilia tree under its shade we were welcomed with Fresh Strawberries and chilled mineral water. Sensationally elegant perfumed wines. Full tasting notes
Pieve Santa RestitutaWonderfully manicured vineyards . Ethereal winery with classical music and film projected onto the whitewashed walls designed to give employees the perfect ambiance to create Gaja’s masterpieces.
Costanti Some of the highlight wines of our tastings. Visits and tastings can be booked on the winery website.
Highly Recommended. This Hotel has stunning views over Val D’Orcia, a small but lovely swimming pool and is an excellent location .The owner is laid back and extremely helpful. Breakfast simple but well presented. Also recommended a small family run hotel and right in the middle of Town Il giglio.
Right in the he heart of Montalcino with an amazing view of the beautiful, medieval Fortress. Excellent wine list and wall to wall bottles of Brunello.
You must book in advance , the food in this restaurant is sensational, a must do in the area.
Starters zuccini stuffed with tomatoes riccotta.
Delicious. Deep fried tempura style, amazingly light & crisp. Egg plant riccotta cheese and tomato. Ravioli in sage butter so delicate.
Mains grilled veal fillet chianina.Sliced Veal Scottata (rare steak) green peas fried onions. So good we returned after our great lunch with Col d’Orcia.
A charming restaurant in the heart of Montalcino. Extensive wine list, an encyclopaedia of back vintages. A delicious starter of Gnocchi with nettle and Fresh ‘Spring’ Truffle. Homemade ‘Pinci’ pasta with bread crumbs and Olive Oil. Main-Medium rare Bistecca Alla Fiorentina. Sheep cheese ‘Selezione’ from Crete Senesi area – beware these cheeses are dangerous.
La Pieve is a hamlet set among a picturesque landscape just nine kilometres from Montalcino. Brunello vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see. We fell upon this country resort with a guesthouse, restaurant, wine bar and chapel with serendipity on our cycle ride. There is a wonderful outdoor area right next to their own vineyard with wonderful views. I think we were kept away from the main restaurant on account of our lycra and perspiration ! Wonderful fresh local food , traditional ‘Pinci’ Pasta and cured local meats.
Other Recommendations
For creative and exclusive wine tasting and Events or if you are planning to get married , we highly recommend Claudia Moritz base in Montalcino info@claudiamoritz.com.Italy is a joy in every way . Fresh delicious sublime food. Exceptional wines. Views and scenery which stay with you forever. Wonderful warm hearted and friendly locals. This area of Tuscany exemplifies it all.Please contact us for any more information .
With its sublime food, rolling landscapes that bewitch the eye, pristine hill top villages and amazing wines it’s easy to wax lyrical about the Brunello di Montalcino region. For me the more fruit focused and elegant Brunello di Montalcinos from higher altitude really sang and the excellence of the fresh crunchy Rossos, with their teasing savoury touch, was a real eye opener. If one had to be critical perhaps a few of the Reserves seemed to try a little too hard for critic scores at the expense of drinking pleasure but then again this just reflects the exciting diversity of wine making approaches to be found in the region. A must for all wine lovers.
The 2010 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino has generated unprecedented world wide excitement and large volumes of sales on release. The quality, with attendant critical fanfare, is obviously a major factor, perhaps also a market hungry for excellence after a run of lack lustre Bordeaux vintages. The BdMs are generally premium priced wines and classically demand patience in the cellar and the premeditation to open them hours or even a day in advance to open up. However since the 2007 vintage they have become much more approachable in their youth than they traditionally were. Rosso di Montalcinos are generally made for drinking from release although many winemakers produce more serious offerings that can happily age. The wines come in quite a range of styles dependent on the vineyard location and wine makers approach to the use of new oak, extraction of fruit and length of aging in barrel. So there is probably a BdM to please all tastes from elegant with vigorous fruit to powerful, malty leather bound tomes.
Day 1
Fuligni
S.J IGT Toscana 2013. A blend of mostly Sangiovese but with some merlot aged in French oak tonneaux. Slightly dusty nose, cherries, some notes of plumb. Nice freshness, soft tannin and a roundness but with a characteristic Sangiovese fresh cherry finish.
Rosso di Montalcino Ginestreto 2013. 14%.The rosso is made as a glimpse of the brunello. A slightly spirit nose, lovely crunchy fresh cherries in the mouth with a good savoury layer. Great balance, soft tannins, high alcohol balanced by the acidity. Good to drink now.
Brunello di Montalcino 2009. 14%. Fuligni have already sold out of the 2010 vintage but explained that 2009 was in this part of the region as good as the 10. Light intensity garnet colour. Cherries on the nose, spice, cinnamon, touch of caramel with a meaty undertone, then orange peel: complex. More of the same in the mouth, medium body great balance and length.
Siro Pacenti.
Siro Pacenti owns vineyards in the north of the region as well as the south. The wines are vinified separately and then blended to form both the Rosso and BdM. The wines are raised in French oak barrique except the riserva which is matured in larger tonneaux.
BdM Pelagrilli 2010. Smokey nose, bit of balsamic, some spice, herbs, thyme, oregano and red fruit. In the mouth intense concentrated red fruit, cherry pie, smoke, toast but not overwhelming and well integrated. Some charcuterie and a lick of vanilla. If hoisin sauce was made with cherries this would be it. Very long. Excellent.
BdM Vecchie Vigne. 2010. A tighter nose, earthy spices: cumin, turmeric, sour cherry, a bit closed but deep. Medium body, fresh with mouth coating firm but ripe fine grained tannins. Ripe fruit, blueberries but a bit masked by the wood influence, meat and blood below. Very long.
Day 2
Uccelliera
Uccelliera, named after the hunting bird loft that still stands on the site, produces a total of 60000 bottles from 6 hectares of Sangiovese plus half a hectare of merlot & cabernet sauvignon. Winemaker Andrea also has olive trees and animals on the farm.
Some of the vineyards lie around the house and were purchased from neighbouring Ciacci Piccolomini but additional plots have been added in the Orcia valley along with a plot of older vines planted in 1975 north of town.
The vineyards are farmed organically and the dry conditions of the Orcia valley favour this. When necessary they spray calcium in the early mornings.
The Rosso is already selected and vinified separately over several picks. The grapes are covered in dry ice to avoid oxidation as soon as they are picked. They are then cold soaked to block fermentation for the first few days to extract colour and allow the natural yeasts to develop and eventually start fermentation. The Brunello spends about 1 month on skins and the Rosso 20 days.
The winery also uses very old French oak barrels which are not toasted for magnums. These were originally destined for the Riserva as the very tight grain produces elegant Sangiovese. An IGT in magnum is now produced which is not to be confused with the regular Brunellos which are aged in large Slavonian oak barrels and around 20% new French oak barriques. The Riserva is produced from specific vineyards with the oldest vines and highest altitude.
The climate is very localised with up to 5 degrees difference with Montalcino and a different profile of rainfall. The geology and soils are also very varied across Montalcino from area to area.
Barrel tasting notes:
BdM 2014 from large Slavonian oak barrels and lower elevation vineyards. Up front fruit, darker cherry, fine grained tannin, high acidity. This has only been in barrel for about 6 months out of the two years it is destined to spend.
BdM 2014 from lightly toasted French oak barrels from higher elevation vineyards. Slightly richer riper fruit a hint of toast, fine grained tannin more grippy very long. Of course very primary at this stage.
The wines are matured in barrel separately then blended later and finished in either type of barrel according to the development of the wine. Andrea is beginning to leave longer and longer intervals between racking the wines off the sediments sometimes up to 2 years.
BdM 2013 from large barrels 1.5 years in. Slightly reduced, funky nose at first then clears to give red fruits lightly confected. Lighter body & more floral with slightly grainer tannin grippy & a touch fierce at the moment.
BdM 2013 smaller barrel, upper level vineyards. More red fruits and more concentration, fresh cranberry, less oak influence than the equivalent 2014, just a touch of pastry, lovely freshness. Good length.
Rapace Toscana 2013 barrelsample. This IGT is a blend of Sangiovese 60%, merlot 30 % and cabernet 10%. The grapes are co-fermented in small French oak barriques. Darker more intense colour. More dark fruit, rich toasty notes, fuller body with medium acidity. Spice, cinnamon, coffee etc. but still good pure fruit. Long finish.
Rapace Toscana 2012 in bottle. Again darker, medium body, ripe fruits, rich with spice and lots of tannin and toast. Great length.
Brunello di Montalcino 2012 from large barrel. Red fruit a bit of herb & spice red fruit, savoury notes of blood. Lots of mouth coating friendly cocoa like tannin, very long.
BdM 2012 from barrique. Sour cherry, sweet toast with a bit of roast coffee. Really powerful with lots of grippy oak tannin high alcohol.
BdM 2012 in barrel blend 50: 50 of the above: More of the fruit and savoury character but with the volume turned up on the tannin and oak compared to the large barrel sample. Fascinating to see how the blend melds to best of both, keeping the fruit but adding structure from the wood. Not the final blend but this looks like it will be a fantastic Brunello!
Riserva BdM 2012 from the 1975 vineyards barrel sample. More concentrated fruit, savoury with a mineral iron note, complex, graceful and yet powerful very long and delicious. Another one that promises to be superb.
BdM 2011 final blend. Lighter body & more elegant with lovely balance of fruit and touch of umami. Great freshness and good length. A really nice drinking wine that won’t need years of patience. Too lightly described as a restaurant wine in my opinion.
BdM 2010 out of bottle. Slightly spirity nose, touch of cola bit tight & concentrated but persistent deep. On the palate a fantastic combination of ripe fruit & savoury, mineral notes. Great freshness and lovely balance and very very long finish. Really complex. The combination of elegance and power is obviously why there is such excitement about this vintage.
BdM Riserva 2008. More savoury vegetal nose with sour cherry dried herbs and balsamic notes. Lovely rich moth feel, more baked fruit, beginnings of tertiary flavours. The extra time breathing in wood barrels softens the wine and develops more mellow flavours. Complex and very long.
BdM Riserva 2010. Dark so dark for sangiovese deep Ruby colour. Pronounced nose with lots going on, still developing. Dark cherries, some blueberry, dark chocolate cocoa, chocolate coated cherry, dusted in herbs: thyme and earth. Some middle aged leather, tobacco and sweet vanilla. High acidity attacks the palate with sweet cherry and a meaty, bloody, sweaty after taste that had savoury notes. Tannins are integrated with wood tannins drying. Length is amazing leaving a clean mouth but concentrated throat of dark fruit. Wow! (Stuart Grostern’s note)
This was an incredible tasting which gave us a great insight into the craft and skill that goes into making the outstanding wines, a real labour of love. The wines were superb and are available at Justerini & Brookes. The 2010 BdM has just been released and is an outstanding wine for a great price. The 2012 Rosso is also a superb value delicious drinking wine.
Col D’ Orcia
The whole production of Col d’Orcia has been certified organic since 2013 and at 540 hectares is the largest organic producer in Tuscany. Col d’Orcia is third largest Brunello producer making 800,000 bottles per annum of which 20, 000 are the renowned single vineyard BdM Poggio al Vento, the ‘windy ridge’. The wines are aged in large Slavonian and French oak barrels to allow the wine to breathe and develop over time.
Banditella 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This is a single vineyard wine matured in 20 to 25 % barrique with a production of 25000 bottles. Lovely cherry notes on the nose. Medium body on palate with great freshness, crunchy cherries and some savoury notes. Nice grainy tannins, a bit grippy but good fruit length on the finish. This is a great food wine with tomato based pasta dishes.
Brunello di Montalcino 2010. Aged 36 months in large oak barrels, 60% Slavonian and the rest oak tonneau with no barrique. Tasty sour cherry notes with some wild garrigue herbs, floral notes of iris & hyacinth. Medium body, fine bright red fruit, great freshness savoury hints with a residue of caramel. Fine grained tannin, nicely grippy and long. Works beautifully with local Pici ragu!.
Poggio al Vento BdM 2007. Single vineyard from a fantastic year. Red fruit, some leather and tobacco leaves, garrigue herbs complex intense nose even though it is still a bit tight. Medium body with good crunchy red fruit and very fine grained tannins, sustained savoury notes, still rather reticent but with really lots of length. This is a great wine needs time to open up either in the glass or after a few more years.
BdM 2014. Barrel sample. Nice cherry fresh fruit, med body, toasty but subtle, great freshness. Will be a good one.
BdM 2012.Barrel sample. Attractive kirsh cherry, backed tart, spices, creamy toast, bit of tobacco lots going on already. Great balance and freshness. Excellent this bodes well for release next year.
Count Marone Cinzano’s winery welcomes visitors for a tour of the winery and wine tasting. They have also recently started hosting lunches with organic food including local wild boar and deer. Not to be missed. For more information visit www.coldorcia.it call + 39 0477 80891 or email info@coldorcia.it
Sesti
Perched on a hill top just north of Sant Angelo in Colle Castello di Argiano is a tranquil oasis heavy with the scent of blossom and surrounded by beautiful views across the surrounding rolling countryside. No wonder Guisseppe & Elisa Sesti fell in love with the place long before they started making the estates wines.
Sauvignon Blanc 2014. Made just for the family. Floral; orange blossom, citrus, nice mineral stoney sensations balance the fruit, high acidity. Beautifully balanced. Lovely to taste a white, superb!
Rosato 2014. A really pale rose pink colour. Made with 100% Sangiovese. Minerals on the nose, some dried herbs. Bracing saline feel in mouth, high alcohol, light fruit, lingering red fruit after taste. A perfect sun downer.
Monteleccio 2013. This is an IGT as it is aged less than the regulation one year in barrel to make a Rosso di Montalcino. Strawberry confected fruit, some herbyness, and cumin too on the nose. Wow this is great! Lovely fresh crunchy wild strawberries, minerality gives it some substance, lovely length & balance. A delicious wine to simply enjoy equivalent of many Rossos. Fantastic value.
Rosso di Montalcino 2013. Light intensity of colour. On the nose strawberry, confected fruit, herbs; sage, thyme, rosemary also flowers; violet, some earthy spices; turmeric etc. In the mouth really fresh bright fruit, high acidity, minerals and a long lingering flavour. This has the substance of a Brunello. Really great stuff. ****
Brunello di Montalcino 2009. This flight of wines are a progression with a clear common character running through them all, the intensity just successively steps up but each is perfectly balanced in itself. The BdM has more fruit, more cumin & turmeric, more violets & wild garrigue herbs then introduces some tobacco leaf, blood and meat. Then perhaps a whiff of new Gucci leather hand bag. Complex to say the least. Medium body, silky tannins which are reasonably grippy, rich sour cherry fruit. The palate is not as open as the nose but there are beginnings of some secondary flavours too. Lovely mouth-watering acidity with a very long finish. This is my kind of wine!
Phenomina BdM Riserva 2005. Each vintage has its own astronomical themed label, this one showing Venus joining Jupiter. Darker brown hues with medium intensity colour. Malty notes, cola, sweeter baked fruits, then tobacco, crème caramel, orange peel, lilies. Medium body, baked stewed fruit, plumbs, rhubarb, leather, high acid, soft tannins great balance. Tobacco notes with a long savoury salty finish. Amazing complexity!
Overall a superb range of wines you can’t go wrong with any of them. Available from Armit wines. The Monteleccio and Rosso are tremendous value.www.armitwines.co.uk
Pieve Santa Restututa (Gaja)
The winery is named after the church on the site which is now converted into a stunning seminar & tasting room. Vaulted tunnels lead down to a state of the art winery hidden under the entrance driveway. The only clue to this subterranean structure is an oxidised steel sculpture by the architect floating over its central roof light.
Wine making in the area dates back to Roman times and the vineyards have long been prized and even fought over by competing nobles. The winery has 25 ha in total, 17 surrounding the winery and 8 near Torrenieri. The Rennina vineyard adjoins the winery and the vines are immaculately groomed in traditional Guyot style. Sugarille vineyard lies just to the south.
Fermentation is temp controlled and micro oxygenation used. The wines are aged in oak tonneau for 24 months with 20-25% new oak. Then it spends 6 months in concrete tanks before bottling which helps remove the sediment.
Interestingly Gaja rates 2011 and 13 over 2012 because high temperatures accelerated sugar ripening, and therefore alcohol, over phenolic ripeness. It’s therefore probably unlikely that Sugarille will be made. Many other wine makers on our trip extolled the virtues of the 2012 vintage.
Brunello di Montalcino 2011. Ripe red fruit, a balsamic strand, sweet sandalwood & floral notes. Great balance, high acidity, mouth coating tannin, quite grippy, high alcohol with a slightly hot finish. But long with nice baked fruit flavours. Already a very tasty wine.
Rennina BdM 2011. Single vineyard. Slightly spicy, herby nose, bit of meat and blood, complex. Lovely mouth feel with fine grained tannin, bright acidity and crunchy cherry fruit. Tasty savoury and mineral notes again a little residual wood tannin that needs to integrate. Already drinking well but built to last. Really delicious!
Sugarille BdM 2011. Sugarille vineyard is mostly galestro soil schist where Sangiovese excels. Slightly spirity on the nose, strawberry, confected red cherry fruit, bit tight but some dried herbs. Quite powerful, rich concentrated fruit, fine grainy tannin with grip, long fruit finish. Again bit of wood on the finish. Quite a powerful wine but with great balance and persistence.
Sugarille BdM 2014 barrel sample. Cherry boiled sweets, bit of ground coffee on the nose. Wow lots of toast and lots of tannin, medium body, moderate acidity really good length. Obviously still pretty embryonic having only spent a few months in barrel.
Sugarille BdM 2013 barrel sample.
Some high red fruit notes but lots of coco and coffee grounds on the nose. Medium body, nice ripe cherry paste flavours, some toast & more coffee grounds, lots of tannin and bright acidity, all tightly packed. Oak tannin on the finish but very long flavour profile. The makings of an awesome wine.
Fascinating to taste the Sugarille single vineyard Brunellos as they evolve in barrel. These are uncompromisingly serious wines, packed full with everything meticulously in place and with extraordinary potential.
Day 3
Conti Costanti
Located just outside the town of Montalcino Costanti is one of the oldest wineries in the region. The vineyards are immediately around the house and adjoin the famous Biondi Santi winery. Annual production is generally 50,000 bottles overall with 35,000 bottles of BdM around 8000 bottles of the Riserva.
2013 Rosso di Montalcino 14.5% Aged 1 year in oak tonneau then 12mths in bottles. The oak is 50% young but not new having been used for the family’s table wine for a couple of years. Sweet cherry strawberries, floral notes, really fresh with beautiful balance. Sweet fruit and savoury notes, overall delicate with soft, cool tannins and a very long persistent finish. A Baby BdM m really excellent!
2010 Brunello di Montalcino. 14% Clear bright ruby colour. Grandma’s homemade strawberry jam, perhaps some herbs, thyme. In the mouth ripe cherry, some orange citrus notes, nice structure underneath. Crisp acidity and beautifully integrated tannins. Amazingly approachable now but with great precision and structure for a long life. A fantastic wine with a very long lingering herb and mineral finish.
2007 Riserva BdM 14%. Slightly darker colour but clear light intensity. Ripe dark cherry sweet fruit with a touch of smoke and dried herbs. The beginnings of secondary notes: Gucci band bag & a whiff of menthol. More rich ripe sweet red & black fruits on the palate with lovely savoury notes. A medium body wine with silty tannins with a bit of grip. Enough freshness and again very long finish. Superb balance. This is a bigger wine but not for the sake of it. Outstandingly good.
2012 Ardingo. 100% merlot from Monosoli vineyard aged in French oak barrique. Nose of plum chutney with a bit of smoke. Another amazingly elegant wine, an overall impression of baked red fruit pie with custard. Great freshness to balance the secondary toast and creaminess. Ripe tannins and good length.
One of my top tastings where the consistent elegance and freshness of the wines really appealed.
This less known area on Italy’s southern heel was our choice for the annual wine trip for the Male Wander fraternity .
Chosen partly to get off the beaten track and mainly for our love for the fuller sweeter styles of Primitivo wines.
We made our way via miles of flat olive treed planes ( 60 million of them in Puglia ) South West to the Ionian Sea via the Trullied town of Alberobello. Arriving too late at Masseria Bagnara to be fed, we drove around Lizzano finally finding ‘5 Stelle’a small oasis of basic but fine nourishment . The first Taste of Primitivo in a carafe for 6€ a litre , and excellent too with spinach and ricotta pizza , bresaola and Caprese salad.
Friday morning we headed to Cantele winery after a short stop in Manduria .
Cantele is a family run winery in Guagnano. the winery was completed in 2003 but this is now third generation.
We had the fortune to be take around by Umberto Cantele .
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Lunch at their I sensi restaurant a homage to food and wine matching
Wine match Cantele Alticelli Fiano -Stone and exotic fruit alternated by delicate floral notes and fresh herbaceousness
Ripe grapefruit nose lush texture and mouthfeel long and refreshing.
Pasta , traditional local Pugliese Orechiette.
Wine match
Cantele Rohesia negroamaro Rich and lingering, with hints of red berry fruit, strawberry, pomegranate, and cherry. Complex aromatic character with a note of flint.
Fresh raspberries crisp long
Main -Thinly sliced beef , local roasted chicory and vegetables
Wine match
Fanoi 2010 old vine Primitivo : Seductive, rich, and smooth. Powerful structure with acidity that balances the wine’s elegant tannic character.
decanter review 2010 96 points
Full bodied packed with black fruit concentrated later leather liquorice herbs intense
A meal in itself !
Dessert-Local grape tart
Wine Match
Le Passanti Fiano passito Very intense, as if it were produced in a bee hive rich with floral and fruit aromas. Acacia honey and Cane apple. Orange flower and bergamot.
A fabulous lush rich intense raisoned finish
Umberto entertained us about everything from running marathons , the philosophy of Italians ,graphic design of labels to the engineering of machine harvesters .
a true highlight of many wine tours and a must visit in Puglia.
Next stop Masseria li veli
Part of the Falvo family
Marvellous restored palatial building guarded by two sleeping dogs who looked like they’d knocked back their fair share of Negroamaro !
Another great tour and tasting by the passionate informed Giovanni
Tried the more unusual Susumaniello 2013 Salento IGT.
Evening , a visit to old town Lecce packed with baroque architecture churches restaurants .
Saturday a drive down the Ionian Coast to Gallipoli .
The weekend Could not have finished better than with 2010 Cantine San Marzano Primitivo Sesstanni overlooking the sea with sun setting.
There’s a small renaissance of old vine Primitivo, though unfortunately most of it has been pulled up following EU incentives.
So intense and concentrated left an almost permanent coat on the glass. Lush textured so balanced for 15% alcohol.
We all craved for more,surely the best sign of a blockbuster.
We couldn’t have ended on a bigger high, can’t wait to return in July !
It started at Bodegas Muga with their Blanco and 3 days later finished in glorious sunshine at Riscal with their Rosado.
In between we enjoyed the pleasure and indulgence of Roda , La Rioja Alta , Cvne , Contino , Vina Real and Ysios,
Interspersed by the fine dining experiences of Beethoven , Terete and Las Dueles.
Haro marks the Western edge of Rioja country surrounded by Rioja Alta .It’s a short car journey from Bilbao.
Recommended accommodation is Los Agostinos ( previously a convent , military headquarters and a jail ! )
It is ideally located for visiting the wineries which are all together a short walk over the river near the train station.
The location is important . After the phyloxerra crisis wiped out Bordeaux vines in the 1870’s the bordelaise turned to Rioja to supply their empty cellars.
Huge oak casks were transported across the Pyrenees for this purpose . On arrival at Bodegas Muga the Steam engine and cask is parked outside reminding us of the roots of the wine industry here. Full tasting notes to follow
Steam train
Senor Revel-Chion, Tour organisor and general Master of ceremonies had worked up a fine appetite, so following recommendation of the locals we headed to Beethoven .
Not as might be implied the Haro philharmonic orchestra , but instead a symphony of food and wine matching, conducted by our travelling sommelier Mr Stuart Grostern.
A note of warning , there are in fact three Beethoven outlets 1,2 and 3 . For fine dining make sure you book Bethoven 2 .
The place was a tad quiet but the food did not disappoint . The most enormous hunks of rare T- Bone sliced up on sizzling sharing platters served up with Vina Tondonia 1994 , Prado Enea 2005, The Vina Real was corked and returned.
A bottle of Roda Reserva in the square for the world cup opener was the fitting end to a busy first day .
Friday morning started at Bodegas Roda Edurnay’s tour was impressive with Coloured barrels and a photography exhibition of their new perfectly clean winery.
So clean infact that our fitness coach Gerald managed to headbutt a window which was so polished it wasn’t visible.
We toured the old cellar from the 1800,s which gently sloped
leading down to river Ebro ready for the barrels to be shipped out to ports afar.
We tasted Roda and Roda 1 and their lovely extra virgin Olive oils
Next stop and literally next door as all the wineries are huddled around the train track, the magnificent La Rioja Alta
Francisco conducted the most entertaining tour . The cellars . Their own cooperage.
The original copper wiring and tracks as Haro was the first town 0utside London to have electricity.
The vast storage facilities the amazing tasting room. We were treated like kings. Francisco a gem.
The tasting was awesome including 10 wines from Alta’s four properties , La Rioja Alta SA , Torre de Ona in Rioja Alavesa , Aster in Ribera del Dueros and Lagar de Cervera in Galicia.
Full tasting note will be posted .. incredible and going home gifts ! A beautiful book ‘Three centuries of la Rioja Alta’ and a bottle of Vina Ardanza. Incredible wines and generosity.
A tour of most mouldy cellar ever seen! More fantastic wine including Imperial Gran Reserva 2007.
It was time for a well earned late lunch at Terete.
Young lamb slow cooked the speciality. Tim’s continued craving for the white asparagus, Stuart and Kiran happily let loose our wallets and the extensive wine list
Wines with lunch included Imperial Reserva 1978,Vina Bosconia lopez Heredia 1991, La rioja Alta 904 2001
We didn’t realize, we were sitting on top pf a fully functioning winwery making 10,000 bottles just for restaurant.
Time to burn off some calories . Big Gerald led us up a mountain bike past Villa Alba .We refreshed ourselves with a swim in the Ebro .
The day ended in the square to the dismay of the flag clad locals as Spain were handed a lesson from the Dutch.
Saturday
Senor Revel-Chion had assured, this is Spain, we would have no problem taking our bikes on the train from Haro to Logrono. Unfortunately , probably as the nation was in abject misery from the football we were denied and headed by car to Contino.
Lorena was our most hospitable tour guide of this French style single vineyard winery. Part of the CVNE stable located near LaGuardia at a bend in the River Ebro.
We were welcomed by their beautifully made Contino Blanco 2011 on the terrace overlooking the vines .
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Then on to Vega Real located on the Cerro de la Mesa hill in Rioja Alavesa. 40 million euros and 7 years to build . A gargantuan project, a tome to wine .
A 57 m barrel sunk into a mountain.The brainchild of Bordelais architect Philippe Mazieres.
Cellars bored into mountain side.Massive stainless steel UFO’s lifted into place with 6000 kg of grapes, with a 25 ton capacity crane mounted with a pivot capacity.
Tasting of rare single varietal Graciano 2006 ,Vega Real Oro 2009 . Kiran for once didn’t ask for spittoon ! The proof in the pudding of the quality of these wines.
Next stop , the lovely 13th Century Medieval walled town of Lagardia for tapas . Set up high on a hilltop with marvellous panoramic views of Rioja wine country.
A circular bike ride through the vines on the camino natural to mountain village of San Vicente and beautiful village of Briones kept us lively until
dinner at Las Dueles. This is a top recommendation for any stay in Haro. Fillet steak and foie gras , tender octopus with smoked paprika . 904 Alta 2001, 809 Alta1998. Tondonia 1994, Alion 2007.
We were in a most relaxed state for England’s opener against the Italians .
Sunday
Nestled in the foothills of the Sierra de Cantabria mountain range is the stunning Bodega Ysios It has to be seen to be believed .
A huge winery now owned by Pernod Ricard. A stunning wavelike roof made up of horizontal aluminium columns, giving a mesmerising pixelated appearance .
Polished wood gently undulating surrounds the entire winery and enormous beams of Canadian pine for the roof .It was built for a much larger production. Temperature controlled cellars meant no excavation was required, The tasting room jets out over the vineyards . No expense spared.
There was only one way to finish this beautiful journey .
Lunch on the terrace at Marques de Riscal with views over the wine growing area, the medieval village of Elciego and the mountains in the distance.
It took four tonnes of titanium to create the multi-coloured convoluted roof . Created by Frank O Gehry famous for the Guggenheim in Bilbao.
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We highly recommend a trip to Rioja . The quality and value of the wines, the stunning architecture , the lovely landscape and views , the excellent food.
Six very satisfied Oenophiles in planning for our next WanderCurtis wine Journey.
If you would like any more information about Wine Travel in Rioja Please contact us .
A recent weekend visiting an old uni mate in Marseille revealed how much the city has to offer and gave me an insight into why he has so happily gone native.
Provence is all about rural retreat and chilling in that charming restored French farmhouse no? Well if you think that’s a bit main stream then a city break in Marseille might be for you. The old port at the heart of this industrial city was recently made over for its role as European City of Culture 2013. There are a couple of stunning new galleries on the water front, some swanky hotels, a fish market and as many cafes and restaurants as you could want all wrapped around a lively marina. Plenty for a full day of wandering.
Venture a short distance deeper into the city and the narrow streets take on a distinct north African flavour or head a few minutes along the coast and guys are surfing waves or trekking up and down the rocky limestone coastline (we sipped coffee instead and watched them march past).
The gastronomic highlight was dinner at restaurant Peron which looks out across the bay facing the sinking sun and serves a fantastic bouillabaisse which we washed down with a local white Cassis. There’s normally a good local wine that matches local cuisine, best just to ask the waiter.
My mate also introduced me to a lovely Provencal red from the tinny appellation of Palette (smallest in France apparently) dominated by Mourvedre but with Cinsault & Grenache by Henri Bonnaud other quality reds are by Chateau Simone.
As one enjoys the spring sunshine the rose wines aren’t bad either!
Mark Lloyd planted Australia’s first sangiovese in 1985, which now comprises 10 per cent of Coriole’s estate output, beside other significant plantings of Barbera, Nebbiolo. There is a new wave of diversification of Australian wine noticeable in this region with a wide range of Mediterranean varietals being experimented.
Grenache tasting at Angove
Tenuta Di Castellaro in Lipari 
Salvo and Antonio Benanti now run the business. Streamlining it having taken over from their father Giusseppe.
The region is perhaps Austria’s best kept wine secret with the vast majority of its wine is consumed on home turf & only a handful of pioneering producers exporting overseas. Südsteiermark’s premium wines are much appreciated by Viennese restaurants & wine collectors but I’m pretty sure that the majority of these tasty wines are consumed on site in the numerous wineries themselves that occupy prime hill top locations whilst enjoying picture postcard views and tucking into local culinary treats.
The Südsteiermark is best known wines for white wines and in particular Sauvignon Blanc which seems to sit in a satisfying spot somewhere between the steel & mineral of the Loire and the greater florality & fruitiness of New Zealand. Traditional whites include the fragrant & fresh early drinking Gelber Muskateller, a perfect aperitif especially when made into a sparkler, Welschriesling, another fresh food friendly white, Weissburgunder (Pinot blanc) with more body but good acidity and the perfect fit for Backhendl and of course a bit of Gruener Veltliner. Chardonnay seems to do well and often comes with a bit of oak too. There are also tasty reds too often blends of indigenous grapes like Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt with international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot.
runs from Leutschach to Gamlitz & Ehrenhausen. Running largely along a ridge it connects many of the best winemakers and the loveliest locations. Instead of driving the route far nicer choice is to ramble along one of the many walking routes also mapped out which allow one to pass right through the vineyards & by quaint farmhouses complete clucking chickens & vintage tractors.
However to cover a wider sweep of the area there is no better form of transport than the e-bike. Modern electric bikes flatten out the many steep hill climbs but take nothing away from the pleasure of rolling through this fabulous country side following part of the Weinstrassen Tour for bikes. Maps of all three types of trail are widely available and extremely well sign posted on the ground making it super user friendly.
Hotel Gut Pössnitzberg. A stylish hotel with heated outdoor pool & cool glass box dining room overlooking the vineyards. The hotel is owned by the Polz Winery and there is a tasting of their wines, including some great traditional method fizz, for guests at 5.00pm each day. E bikes available. 
Other highlights were his lamb and Rosemary, Bistecca alla fiorentina and Umbrian sausages all grilled on the open fire
Kitted out with the finest Bianchi hybrid 
Grecante grechetto 2015
WanderCurtis Wine 