Gordon Russell winemaker at Esk Valley for 25 years

We were hosted by the winemaker of over 25 years Gordon Russell. Esk Valley like Vidal are under the umbrella of Sir George Fistonich’s Villa Maria brand. They have recently moved their wine production  to Te Awa in Gimblett gravels. Esk valley vineyards are some of original plantings 10 km North of Napier and amongst the first to plant Verdelho and Malbec and Merlot. They maintain Gordons philosophy, a specific concrete vat was made for the new winery at Te Awa.

Wines tasted

Esk Valley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Marlbourough fruit, sites from 69% Wairau Valley, mix of gravel and clay warmer than Awatere ValleyPlenty of texture here from lees ageing and richness is obvious, Aromatic gooseberry fresh wine good balance and length

Esk Valley Verdelho 2018 ( only 7 hectares nationwide)

Planted in 1998 and 2002 first Verdelho vines in New Zealands history, 1 hectare in Gimblett gravels low cropped, on stony soils,oak barrel fermented, wild yeast lees stirring, Citrus slight, orange full bodied  fresh acidity.

Esk Valley Pinot Gris 2019

Slight rose tint, tank and old barrels ferment lees ageing and stirring, Pear citrus lovely texture and finish

Esk Valley Chardonnay 2018

Tropical fruit subtle oak butter vanilla 27% Malolactic 75% barrel fermented, minimal intervention

Esk Valley winemakers réserve 2016

lovely smooth fresh ripe tannins blackberry plum, Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Malbec one of First New Zealand Merlot producers, oak aged 17 months 40% new

Esk Valley the terraces Malbec Merlot Cabernet 2016

Co-fermented together 40/33/27 one hectare site above Esk Valley winery originally planted in 1940.

Concrete vat ferment hand plunging 50% new oak 17 months unfined, unfiltered, Velvety tannins fragrant black fruit

Interestingly for a New Zealand wine this is sold en primeur.

Esk Valley wines appear to be excellent value for money especially the entry level range. They reflect  Gordon’s   wine making talent and experience.

The Hawke’s Bay is perfectly placed as New Zealand’s second largest wine region.  Known for being one of the hottest and driest regions of New Zealand, it is the fruit basket bay on the East coast of the North island – producing tonnes of delicious fruit, especially apples for international export on a small flat coastal plan and surrounding hill terraces.

The region might not yet be as world renowned as its NZ Southern wine neighbours and their international successes (Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough, Pinot Noir in Central Otago), but it is New Zealand’s oldest wine region and steeped a rich wine growing history from the late 1800s.  Each of the vineyards we visited had current links to early New Zealand wine pioneers (Marist religious brothers, Anthony Vidal (1905), Tom Macdonald) and late 19^th  century established plantings (Esk valley terraces, Te Mata estate).  After a period of settling and experimentation, the region has now focused on what it grows and produces well – Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blends.

There are now over 200 vineyards planted over  about 5,000 hectares mainly on the Heretuanga plains which includes the famed Gimblett gravels and Bridge pa triangle which are essentially terraces left behind by Ngaruroro River. The Gimblett gravels pure gravel beds arise from the changed course of the river in 1867. The ground is ideal for top quality viticulture, good drainage and the vine roots have to struggle through the gravels for nutrients.

Mission estate

Mission Estate is steeped in history being New Zealand’s oldest winery dating back to 1851, the first commercial sales began in 1870.

It was set up by Missionaries, Marist priests left who France in1836 landing in 1838. It is still owned by the order of St Mary Church. Their current winemaker is Paul Mooney, the first non priest to have this role. Fruit is acquired from lots growers in Hawke’s Bay including Marlborough and Central Otago.

Categories of wines go from Estate, entry level volume: Vineyard selection cellar door only, Reserve wines low crop fruit thinning, more concentrated wine more in barrel more new oak. Jewelstone top wine only in most exceptional parcels in great years

My friend Aaron remembers when he was brought here on a school residential in 1987. They offered him the opportunity to train to be a priest which he politely declined.

Wine tasting hosted by Phillip Van Der Walt

Mission Estate fête Hawkes Bay

Pinot Gris 94% Chardonnay 6% charmat method pear nutty almond

Mission Estate Old vine 40 years semilon small block

Likes heat too cool generally in nz Hawkes bay warm enough to produce tropical pineapple characters

Citrus moderate acid, I didn’t find classic semillon characteristics

Mission Estate Jewelstone Rose  2019

First ever jewelstone Rose 2019 only 3 barrels made Gimblett Gravels 80 Merlot 20 can sav plenty fresh red fruit, really good rose

Mission Estate Jewelstone Pinot noir 2018

Red cherry straight fire nice balance from Central Otago

Mission Estate 2018 Syrah Gimblet gravels

Spice pepper mod tannins lighter style Ground black and green peppercorns

Mission Estate Late harvest Riesling 2018

Sometimes botyrtis tiny amount blended with Viognier and arneis 106 g l,Juicy ripe apricot

Mission Estate Barrel sample Huchet Chardonnay

2018 sl nutty a bit oxidised almond hazelnut nice texture Dry texture barrel older barrels

Church Road

We reached Church Road winery via a lovely, easy, flat, dedicated bike trail from Napier which hugs the coast, initially going past the harbour full of commercial logs ready for export to China. It then goes via the wetlands created when the ground rose by over 6 feet during the devastating earthquake of 1931, it was initially the harbour. Church Road has a long history dating back to 1897 when a former member of the Mission founded Taradale Vineyards on a 2 hectare site. Tom McDonald who worked since age 14 on the vines and in charge of property aged only 19. It later became McDonald wines. Tom pioneered some of New Zealand’s earliest wines receiving an OBE in 1976. Now owned by Pernod Ricard the range is diverse including unusual varietals such as Marzemino and Sauvugnon Gris. The Grand Reserve and flagship TOM are only made in the best years.

Church Road Pinot Gris Gwen 2019

Smooth textured sl tropical fruit guava

Church Road 1 Chardonnay 2018

Smoky flinty Chardonnay Juliette said smells of twiglets I think reflecting the lees ageing smoky savoury texture

Church Road Gwen Rose 2019

Merlot 92% Tempranillo 7% Malbec 1% more subtle Provence style Rose

Church Road Rose 2019

Californian style, red cherry raspberry fruit forward

Church Road Marzemino 2018 (grape from Trento Alto Adige, Italy)

Nice soft tannin dry good acid back bone

Church Road Tempranillo 2017

3 other growers of Tempranillo in Hawkes bay, blue fruits hint mocha

Church Road Grand réserve Syrah 2017

Lighter elegant style Syrah floral red fruit, as a few people have commented this is our Hawke’s Bay pinot.

Church Road Tom Syrah 2015

Flagship Syrah named after  Tom McDonald.  black fruits but tasted Slightly Porty ?oxidised

Church Road TOM Cabernet Sauvignon  Merlot 2015

Grand Reserve Cabernet from Bridge Pa site 66%  Merlot 23% from Gimblett Gravels TOM +++ best wine yet of Hawke’s Bay tastings but $220 per bottle! Only at cellar door or duty free.

Brilliant…Just after telling Aaron these super premium wines are wines not worth it I took a swirl of this in my mout and told him I take back everything I just said!. Amazingly concentrated long complex plum black cherry violet cedar vanilla with beautifully integrated fine grained ripe tannins fruit oak and intensity, long long on palate one to age for a long time