WanderCurtis Wine

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Österreichischen Traditionsweingüter (ÖTW)

Have you ever wondered what the term ‘Erste Lage’ or 1 ÖTW on a bottle of wine from Austria means? I attended a seminar at the bi-annual Trade Austrian Wine tasting last week that explained the story behind the ÖTW and forthcoming changes coming into place.

First a quick overview of the current legal framework that applies to Austrian wine. Like other European wine producing countries a tiered classification system exists with specific labelling:

  • ‘Österreichischer Wein’ means that the wine is made from grapes grown anywhere in the country. The wine can be from a single grape variety but not certain protected varieties such as Blaufränkisch. There are also some not very challenging minimum and maximum limits on must weight and yield.
  • ‘Landwein’ means the wine is made from grapes from an area with Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). There are three: Weinland, Steirerland and Bergland. Each area has an approved list of grape varieties but the list is long and the areas are large.
  • ‘Qualitätswein’ is indicated by the red top with a white stripe through it. These wines are from grapes coming from an area with protected status (PDO). The wines are tasted and tested to ensure they display typical characteristics of the region and meet more stringent minimum standards including must weight and maximum yields.

‘Qualitätswein’ can be labelled ‘Kabinett’ if it is not enhanced within the winery in any way and is less than 13% ABV. If labelled ‘Reserve’ the wine will be 13% ABV or over.

‘Qualitätswein’ may also be labelled Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC).  This means that it comes from one of 18 regionally typical controlled areas for example Weinviertel, Wachau or Leithaberg. Each DAC has quite a limited list of permitted grape varieties and the wines are tasted by a panel to approve typicity. Anything falling outside the scope or from a non-permitted variety can only be labelled Landwein.

Now within the DAC geographical area there are further spatial refinements: Gebietswein means it just corresponds the DAC area, Ortswein is from a particular village area and Riedenwein is from a single vineyard.

This is where the ÖTW comes in.

Founded in 1991 the ÖTW (oo – tay – vay) is a trade Association. It was set up to create a vineyard classification system designed to help consumers get an even better understanding of what to expect from the wine inside the bottle.  Anything that can help in this respect is of course a good thing. 

Started by a group of wineries in Kamptal and Kremstal the ÖTW splits the Riedenwein category down into three ascending subcategories: Ried Lage , Erste Lage and Grosse Lage. So far vineyards have only been classified as Erste Lage / 1 ÖTW but in time the intention is to elevate some of these to Grosse Lage.

The model is evidently similar to the classification of vineyards in Burgundy where distinct from village and lieu dit wines there are classified premier and grand cru vineyards. However as with the Bordeaux classification Chateaux in 1855 the vineyards in Burgundy were categorised back in the 19th Century according to the market value achieved of the wines, as a measure of quality and status.

So interestingly the ÖTW claims that vineyards in their system are not classified on the subjective bases of quality and price. Instead the ‘significance’ of the plot is measured using multiple parameters. These include: historical and cultural, physical characteristics, the number of wineries producing from the vineyard also average price and variance over time.  The wines produced are also evaluated via blind tastings by growers and international experts and the consistency of their performance over time.

Anecdotally we tasted three wines from Ried Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW which were all Riesling but from three different producers: Birgit Eichinger 2022, Allram 2019 and Bründlmayer 2015. The wines were all of the highest quality with thrilling concentration and persistence. They were layered and complex and showed how age worthy they can be.

This was obviously too small a sample to be able to divine clear vineyard characteristics but the tasting certainly backed up my experience that 1 ÖTW on the label means that the winery has set out with serious intent to make a high quality wine that speaks of its origin.

The ÖTW system has expanded and is now used by members in Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wagram, Vienna, Carnuntum, Thermenregion and the Weinviertel.

A notable exception to this list is the Wachau and its not clear why the producers there don’t feel the need to participate.  Speculating, the region is perhaps more domestically and internationally well-known and they have their own quality hierarchy: Stienfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd so demand and recognition is probably already strong enough. Also many single vineyard wines are produced and I wonder if the number of monopole vineyards are sufficient to make vineyard classification less important than producer name? Research for another day.

The ÖTW is however on the up and has in principle be approved for adoption by the ministry of agriculture into law.  As with any change in wine law there are those that are not convinced and currently an appealed against adoption is being determined in the courts. Watch this space.


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More than Grüner: other Austrian white varieties.

Grüner Veltliner has found its way onto many a restaurant wine list, supermarket shelf and specialist merchant worldwide and I am a long term fan of all the different expressions that the Winzers of Austria capably produce, from crisp easy drinking summer wines to structured treasures that bloom after a decade or two in the cellar.

But what about the other indigenous and traditional white grape varieties that Austria has to offer?  Well there are plenty including the following:

  • Welschriesling (confusingly not related to Riesling, makes easy drinking dry whites but comes into its own on the humid shores of the Neusiedlersee where its thin skins invite noble rot and where superb sweet wines are made).
  • Weissburgunder (although it is white it is not Chardonnay but actually Pinot Blanc probably originating in Burgundy).
  • Neuburger (a natural crossing of Roter Veltliner and Sylvaner).
  • Gelber and Roter Muskateller (an aromatic and ancient variety).
  • Frühroter Veltliner (another natural crossing of Roter Veltliner and Sylvaner).
  • Traminer (Savagnin): Roter Traminer, Gewürtztraminer and Gelbe Traminer (Named after the Tyrolian town on Tramin and coming in red, pink and yellow hued grapes respectively).
  • Bouvier (A cultivated crossing between Gelber Muskateller and Pinot Blanc).
  • Roter Veltliner (parent of many other but not Grüner Veltliner!).
  • Rotgipfler (Natural crossing between Roter Veltliner and Traminer).
  • Zierfandler/ Spätrot (Another natural crossing between Roter Veltliner and one of the Traminers).
  • Sylvaner/ Grüner Sylvaner (Actually an autochthonous (I know not enough vowels surely!, basically means originating from the place or indigenous) variety that made its way from Austria to Germany and Alsace but plantings have all but disappeared in its home land pushed aside by easier to grow Grüner Veltliner).

Over the last year I have been expanding my horizons by seeking out three of these in particular.

Roter Veltliner

Historically grown in Kamptal, Wagram and Kremstal often as part of a field blend this variety was largely uprooted in the 1950s and 60s as part of a shift to single varietal vineyards.  The grape is challenging to grow being prone to frost, botrytis and mould das it ripens late. Grüner Veltliner by contrast is hardier and ripens earlier and so was the favoured variety for replanting and now accounts for over 30% of all area under vine.  

Roter Veltliner has continued to dwindle over the last couple of decades but, according to Jospeh Mantler of family Weingut Mantlerhof in Kremstal who wrote a dissertation on the variety, is making something of a resurgence as a single varietal wine.

As the climate has changed hazards such as drought, sunburn and heat stress are becoming as important if not more so than frost and fungal diseases.  It turns out that Roter Veltliner handles lack of water and heat rather well and the natural reddish pink colour of the skins means it doesn’t have to reach for the factor 50 in the sun.

So what are the wines like? The wines are not aromatic but have subtle orchard fruit, herbal and sweet root vegetable aromas. They have a broad textured mouth feel and whilst fresh have  soft acidity making them a great contrast to Grüner Veltliner.  There are two broad wine making approaches: a high yield, easy drinking style and a more concentrated textured and age worthy style that requires several passes of the vineyard to pick the grapes at optimum ripeness.

Weingut Leth of Wagram makes both styles. Their Roter Veltliner Fells Klassik 2023 has muted aromas of apple, pear, dried herbs and a touch of sweet spice. On the palate it is quite textured but with nice freshness. A nice uncomplicated partner to richer Austrian or Asian dishes.

Weingut Mantlerhof only make a reserve style from a single vineyard.  The Roter Veltliner Ried Gedersdorfer Reisenthal 2023 has notes of ripe yellow apple, pear, celeriac, parsnip and white pepper. In the mouth its actually just off dry which balances the acidity, there is a creamy mouth feel and a long persistent finish.  Joseph recommends bottle aging this wine to allow it to develop more notes of spice and dried fruit.

Rotgipfler & Zierfandler

These two varieties are largely grown in the Thermenregion particularly around Gumpoldskirchen on the hillsides of the Wienerwald just south of Vienna. The area’s volcanic springs were popular with the Romans and so of course wine has been grown there ever since. It’s a little warmer than the other parts of Niederösterreich but not as warm as Burgendland to the east.

Rotgipfler is made as a single variety but also often blended with Zierfandler for balance as it retains more acidity when ripe.  Both display some of aromatic and tropical fruit Traminer characteristics and both are textural and full bodied with sweet spicy notes.  Late harvested Zierfandler is also used to make sweet wines. High quality examples apparently mature well in bottle.

Stift Klosterneuburg’s 2023 Cuvee Gumpoldskirchen is a blend of both.  Ripe tropical fruit on the nose, with banana, cinnamon and cake spices. The body is full and alcohol high, off dry but balanced with a nice long finish.

Familie Reinish Gumpoldskirchner Tradition 2022. Also a blend. Exotic, ripe stone and tropical fruit salad with sweet spices on the nose. Rich creamy mouth feel, some sweetness but overall manages to be remain fresh with a long finish.

Do try these varieties when you come across them!

AustrianWine.com has an excellent website packed full of useful information on the wines and regions and vineyards. It also provides super regional maps and contact details for wineries for when you visit. The featured image above is a photo of a great summary fact sheet provided by the association at a recent tasting in London.


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Wine dinner with Familia Zuccardi – Mendoza, Argentina with Eugenia González, UK Brand Ambassador Tuesday 11th February 2025 at Frederick’s Restaurant

We had another great wine dinner with Familia Zuccardi – Mendoza, Argentina presented by Eugenia González, UK Brand Ambassador, on Tuesday 11th February 2025 at Frederick’s Restaurant in Islington.

Alberto Zuccardi, planted the first Zuccardi vines in a small plot in the Maipu region in 1963. Located in the Uco Valley, Mendoza which is at the foothills of the Andes Mountains in Argentina

They were voted The World’s Best Vineyard in 2020. Sebastián Zuccardi the third generation of the family, continues the family business and is one of South America’s finest winemakers. He added a Research and Development Wing in the family winery, to learn and analyse more about the terroirs.

They are known to produce some of the highest quality of wines in South America. The vineyards enjoy the benefits of altitude and a cool dry climate throughout the year.

 They are high-altitude wines (from grapes grown at least 500 metres above sea level). At high-altitudes, vines get more sun during the day and are cool at night. This diurnal variation intensifies the flavour of the grapes. Zuccardi’s San Pablo vineyards are situated 1500m above sea level. Their Paraje Altamira vineyards are at 1,100 metres altitude.

We had six brilliant wines including their single-varietal estate wines, primarily made from Malbec with a matched three course menu.

  Zuccardi Blanc de Blancs  Vintage 2017   Delicious, very Champagne like, autolytic with a lovely freshness and showing characters of 8 years of age. Made from single vineyard chardonnay grapes at an altitude of 5,000 feet

Zuccardi Blanc De Blancs Vintage 2017

Starter            

Chilli prawns “Pil Pil” pappardelle ˝
Superfood winter salad; roast pepper, butternut squash, avocado,
broad beans, pearl barley, pumpkin seeds (vegetarian/vegan)˝

Zuccardi Serie A / Valles Torrontés – A more restrained version of Torrontes, some florality reflecting it’s familial connection with Muscat but not overtly floral. Beautifully textured lovely mouthfeel. Really paired well with mild chilli prawn pappardelle.

  Zuccardi Polígonos Chardonnay a rich creamy Burgundian style Chardonnay with beautiful integration from 30% ageing in oak barrels. Pineapple hints of peach with minerality and flint. Really well balanced.


Pan-fried fillet of hake, seafood risotto ˝
Chateaubriand steak, chips, French beans, chimichuri
Zuccardi Tito Malbec
Zuccardi Concreto Malbec˝ aged in concrete, egg shaped vessels, helps to retain the fresh red and black fruits

Tiramisu
Zuccardi Malamado Fortfiled Malbec NV


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Not Yet Named Wine Co:  ‘I helped make that wine’

Last year I signed up to the Not Yet Named Wine Co. at the suggestion of one of our regular wine dinner guests (thanks Carrie)

The attraction was that Alex Brogan who runs the venture offers an ingenious way of involving wine lovers of all levels to become part of the winemaking process. Founded by Alex and Manuel two Plumpton College Viticulture and Oenology students seeking a way to fund their own wines, the project has evolved into a vibrant community of wine enthusiasts, united by a shared passion for creating something truly unique.

At its core, the concept is beautifully simple: members pay a monthly subscription to participate in crafting two wines per year, one from the northern hemisphere and one from the southern. In return, they receive six bottles twice annually. What makes it special, however, is the democratic decision-making process. At every key stage, whether selecting fermentation methods, maturation vessel or blending styles, members vote on how the wine should be made, guided by detailed, jargon-free educational emails outlining the pros and cons of each option. Normally these emails come with an added dash of humour or at the very least a pun or two.

For those seeking deeper engagement a WhatsApp group offers a space to debate decisions with fellow members. The company also organizes annual vineyard visits (northern hemisphere), where subscribers can taste their wine in barrel and participate in blending or acidity trials transforming the experience from theoretical to hands-on.

The current vintage is being produced in Slovenia and Alex and Ales Rodica from the winery hosting the vintage, brought over some barrel samples of the Malvazija that we’re making for us to taste. And that’s the great thing about this, you do feel as if you are a part of the wine making team even if Alex is doing all the work.


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Margaret River – well worth a visit.

Margaret River only produces 3% of Australia’s wine but produces a large proportion of its premium offerings.

Though a young wine region, Margaret River is recognised globally for its premium wines, particularly its elegant Cabernet Sauvignon, refined Chardonnay, and crisp white Bordeaux-style blends. Located in Western Australia, this remote yet picturesque region benefits from a unique climate and ancient soils, creating exceptional conditions for grape growing.

Margaret River’s wine story began in 1967, when Dr. Tom Cullity planted the first commercial vineyard at Vasse Felix, inspired by Harold Olmo, a University of California viticulture professor who identified the region’s potential for fine wine production. Soon after another medic Dr. Kevin Cullen and his wife founded Cullen Wines, further establishing the region’s credibility. By the 1970s, the area attracted the attention of Robert Mondavi, the legendary Napa Valley winemaker. His technical expertise and influence were pivotal in guiding Leeuwin Estate towards planting Chardonnay, which was still rare in Australia at the time. Under his mentorship, Leeuwin’s Art Series Chardonnay became one of the nation’s most celebrated wines, proving Margaret River’s potential on the world stage.

Situated at 34 degrees latitude, Margaret River’s climate should be warm to hot. However, it enjoys a cooler maritime influence due to the Cape Current, which hugs the Indian Ocean coastline surrounding the peninsula. This cooling current moderates the summer temperatures, preventing the vines from overheating and allowing for a long, gentle ripening season essential for producing wines with complexity and balance.

The region’s rainfall pattern is also significant. With high winter rainfall and dry, warm summers, Margaret River experiences a low disease pressure growing season, reducing the need for chemical intervention. The region’s red gravelly loam soils, formed over ancient granite and gneiss bedrock, are low in nutrients, naturally restricting vine vigour and promoting concentrated, high-quality fruit.

The absence of phylloxera allows Margaret River’s vineyards to have been propagated from selected heritage cuttings, preserving and enhancing the region’s clones.

Margaret River’s Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in the region’s free-draining, gravelly soils. The extended ripening period ensures full tannin maturity, resulting in wines with dark fruit flavours, fine structure, and great aging potential.

Chardonnay, often made from the region’s signature Gingin clone, performs exceptionally well in the cool maritime climate. This clone produces small, loose bunches with berries of varying sizes, resulting in wines with concentrated citrus, stone fruit, and tropical flavours, complemented by vibrant acidity.

The region’s Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blends, inspired by white Bordeaux, flourish in the cool conditions, offering zesty citrus, passionfruit, and herbaceous notes with crisp acidity and freshness.

There is also a vibrant wine and gastronomic culture driven by visitors from nearby affluent Perth and international tourists are also drawn by the amazing coastal landscape and ancient gum tree forests.


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Marri Wood Park: Biodynamic wine grower in Margaret River

Tucked away in Yallingup, Western Australia, Marri Wood Park is a small family-owned vineyard known for its Demeter-certified biodynamic practices. Since 1992, this 16-acre estate, located along Caves Road near Smiths Beach, has cultivated vines with a reverence for nature’s rhythms.

The vineyard’s sustainable philosophy avoids chemicals, instead embracing celestial cycles to guide pruning, fertilising, and harvesting. Grazing animals enrich the soil, while natural biodiversity fosters a self-sustaining ecosystem. With no irrigation, the vines rely on the cooling breezes of the Southern Indian Ocean and the deep, resilient roots of their 28-year-old cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, and semillon vines. The soils are a blend of sandy, gravelly loam over limestone bedrock retain water over the dry summer.

Hand-harvested grapes are meticulously sorted and fermented in a variety of vessels, including clay amphoras and French and Austrian oak barrels. This hands-on, minimalist approach captures the essence of Margaret River, producing wines of purity and depth.

Inspired by Rudolf Steiner, whose teachings revealed nature’s intelligence, and guided by Alex Podolinsky, the founder of Demeter Bio-Dynamics, Julian the owner of Marri Wood Park embraces a philosophy of ‘active perception’. He explains that through observing and engaging with the land, they have cultivated a profound affinity with their patch, a deep respect for its rhythms and ecosystem and how it works.

Visit the estate by appointment and Julian will walk you through the land and the vineyards explaining his unique approach as he goes then on returning the  barn sample the wines.

Unusually for the region they grow Chenin Blanc and the Marri Wood Park, Chenin Blanc museum release 2014 was superb!

Rich yellow in colour, with an intense nose of waxy lemon peel, preserved lemon, yellow apple, fresh green rosemary, thyme and dried herbs. There is also roasted macadamia, smoke, toast and honeycomb. Super complex.

Dry, very mouth-watering, with a lovely oily texture. Medium body, only 11.2%. More tart citrus, tinned peach, a subtle touch of vanilla, waxy and toasty, with a long taught finish.


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Wine Dinner with Te Mata Wines of Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, with Toby Buck at Bocca Di Lupo Restaurant, Soho London April 16th 2024

Te Mata Estate is New Zealand’s oldest winery, dating from the early 1890’s. Vines were first planted at Te Mata Estate in 1892. The original three vineyards produce its most famous wines: Coleraine, Awatea and Elston.

It is a New Zealand family-owned winery, based in Hawkes Bay, North Island. John & Wendy Buck have been co-owners of Te Mata Estate since 1978. Te Mata’s wines are renowned as the country’s finest.

They produce a stunning array of red and white wines including Coleraine and Awatea Cabernet/Merlots, Bullnose Syrah, Elston Chardonnay, and Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc.

Coleraine was first made in 1982 vintage. It is a Bordeaux style wine described by Decanter magazine as “New Zealand’s First Growth”. It is made from their finest selections of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It is one of New Zealand’s iconic wines.

We were delighted to welcome Toby Buck, the son of the owner, over from New Zealand. Toby talked us through the history and his family wines.

We had a selection of five wines including Coleraine, served with a three-course dinner in the private room of the award-winning Boca Di Lupo restaurant in Soho.Tickets were priced is £95pp. We had a full house of 32 people.

Te Mata Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2021

Rigatoni with ricotta, broad beans & basil

Te Mata Estate Chardonnay 2023

Tagliata (served on sharing platters) Potatoes garlic & rosemary

Te Mata Bullnose Syrah 2019

Te Mata Coleraine Cab/Merlot 2018

Dessert

Te Mata Estate Gamay Noir 2023

Te Mata Wines Hawkes Bay New Zealand
Some readings of the best wine descriptions of the night

Our first time at Bocca Di Lupo was a great success. The Tagliata (Thin slices of perfectly cooked beef tenderloin) was so good it almost overwhelmed the wines! Te Mata wines lived up to their expectations and previous tastings. Beautifully crafted and immaculately balanced.


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Cantele Wines of Puglia, Italy with Umberto Cantele, Wednesday January 24th

Umberto Cantele third generation of Cantele Wines of Puglia hosted this memorable evening at Fredericks a day before Burns night 2024.

Adam, his father and brother visited Umberto at Cantele winery in Salento a few years ago and have been long planning this dinner.

The whole family is involved in the business. They have 50 hectares of their own vineyards and manage a further 150 hectares. Their primary focus is on local native grapes of the region, including Primitivo, Negroamaro and Susumaniello for the red wines, and Verdeca and Malvasia Bianca for the whites. The winery also produces pure expressions of international varieties such as Chardonnay.

Aperitif

2022 Verdeca, Cantele, Puglia Stone fruit with ice texture and medium acidity

With Starter

2021 Teresa Manara IGT Salento Chardonnay

2021 Teres Manara Vendemmia Tardiva Chardonnay The star of the show tonight

rich textured beautiful oak integration caramel vanilla butter stone fruit

With maim

2021 Amativo, Cantele, Puglia lovely blend of NegroAmaro and Primitivo delicious rich black fruits hints of smoke and choclate

2022 Primitivo Puglia IGP, Cantele

Thanks to the crowd of 31 who braved dry January. Special thanks to Umberto who gave us great insight into his family winery and brought his Italian warmth to a London January.


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BioWeingut Karl Renner: Cultivating a new generation of grape varieties in the Südsteiermark, Austria.

At BioWeingut Karl Renner, nestled in the rolling hills of Pössnitz in the Südsteiermark, sustainability is at the very heart of everything they do. For Karl and his family, who have stewarded this land since 1966, the focus is clear: create wines of character with minimal intervention, and protect the land for future generations.

But even for the most committed organic growers, nature presents challenges. Karl points to oidium and downy mildew as the most persistent threats to viticulture in the Südsteiermark. These fungal diseases, brought to Europe in the 19th century, remain the main reason why vineyards, even organic ones, require frequent treatments. In some seasons, up to 20 copper sulphate sprays are needed to try and keep disease at bay. “It’s too much,” says Karl. “It leaves copper in the soil which builds up over time.”

That’s why Renner is turning toward PIWI or as he calls them “next generation” varieties, fungus-resistant hybrids bred to thrive with far fewer treatments. Since 2011, he’s been gradually replanting his vineyards with these innovative grapes, which make organic viticulture not only more effective but also more appealing for wider adoption in the wine industry.

The four main PIWI varieties Karl works with are:

  • Muscat Bleu – A mid-budding, early-ripening variety, Muscat Bleu is highly aromatic and serves as an early indicator in the vineyard: its berries turn a vivid blue before ripening to black. This allows Karl to closely monitor ripeness progression in the vineyard.
  • Chardonel – A hybrid of Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc, first developed in New York in 1953, Chardonel delivers both structure and finesse. It captures the familiar elegance of Chardonnay but thrives under organic management.
  • Souvignier Gris – A cross between Seyval Blanc and Zähringer, Souvignier Gris is one of Karl’s standout performers. It ripens later and retains excellent acidity. It also has some frost resistance.
  • Muscaris – This cross between Solaris and Gelber Muskateller produces an early-ripening, highly aromatic wine. Muscaris stands out for its expressive floral and spicy notes, making it useful for both varietal bottlings and blends.

These varieties are allowing Karl to dramatically reduce chemical inputs. Where conventional or even organic growers might spray upwards of 15–20 times per season, Renner’s PIWI vines typically need only 2–4 treatments. That reduction means less soil compaction from tractors, lower CO₂ emissions, and healthier microbial life in the vineyard. Cover crops further enhance soil structure and biodiversity, especially on the estate’s steep slopes.

In the winery there is a lot to learn, the wine making knowledge for the varieties traditionally grown; Sauvignon Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay) and Pinot Blanc, that has been accumulated over generations must be learnt anew for this New Generation of varieties.  Karl is experimenting with skin contact, barrel ageing, and unfiltered bottlings to explore the full potential of these newer grapes. He’s also trialling blends that include both PIWI and traditional varieties, giving wine drinkers something familiar while showcasing the potential of these robust hybrids.

Tasting notes:

Thirsch Chardonel 2020

  • Thirsch: historical name of the farm. First vintage 2011, still experimental.
  • Aged 2 years in barrel for stability.
  • Smoky, orange peel, peach, apricot, herbal and nutty notes.
  • Textured mouthfeel, long finish.

Souvignier Gris 2020

  • Smoky with tropical notes: peach, banana, nuts.
  • Medium body, high acidity.
  • Creamy mouthfeel, nutty and delicious.

Souvignier & Pinot Blanc Thirsch 2021 – Barrel Sample (Souvignier Gris 60% / Pinot Blanc 40%)

  • Slightly cloudy, natural wine style.
  • Aromas: marzipan, floral, sour gooseberry, banana.
  • Medium body, medium alcohol, medium+ acidity.
  • Balanced with a long finish. Sweet and savoury interplay. Love this one.

Thirsch Muscaris 2020

  • Short skin contact, fermented in stainless steel.
  • Highly aromatic: blossom, roses, pink grapefruit, peach.
  • Dry, medium+ acidity.
  • Fresh citrus, orchard, and stone fruits.
  • Textured with a slight prickle.

(For a full tasting notes follow this link)

Amber 2020 Winburg (65% Muscaris / 35% Souvignier Gris)

  • Fermented on skins: Muscaris 2–3 weeks, Souvignier Gris 3 months.
  • Separate harvest dates.
  • Pear, banana, cider notes.
  • Slightly grippy mouthfeel, long finish.

At Weingut Renner, the message is clear: PIWI varieties represent a practical, scalable solution for making organic viticulture more successful. As climate change, disease pressure, and sustainability demands intensify, Karl’s approach offers a compelling model for other growers — not just in Austria, but across Europe and beyond.

As wine drinkers are we ready to expand our horizons and discover these new wines? Natural wines have found an audience, why not “next generation” varieties too?


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Boekenhoutskloof

Founded in 1776, Boekenhoutskloof can be found  way down the scenic Franschhoek valley. The farm’s name means “ravine of the Boekenhout” (pronounced Book-n-Howed). Boekenhout is an indigenous Cape Beech tree greatly prized for furniture making. Hence the 7 wooden chairs that the wine labels feature.

As with many wineries there was a change of ownership and reboot in the early 1990s and new vineyards were planted including Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Semillon and Viognier.

The winery also produces a number of brands: Porcupine Ridge, The Chocolate Blick, The Wolftrap. Producing 7 million bottles a year it is one of the biggest wineries.

One needs to book about 6 months in advance to visit and taste at the estate but it quite a special experience hosted by Godfried Mocke the wine maker in Franschhoek.

Godfried explained that they now have vineyards in Swartland home of the famous Porseleinsberg Syrah, for Rhone varietals. The grow Cabernet Sauvignon in Franschhoek and Stellenbosch and Semillion in Franschhoek.  They’ve set up a fairly new venture to grow and make Burguindian varieties in Hemel en Aarde called Cap Maritime.

A tour through the winery revealed further details of their approach to wine making. They generally let wild yeast take care of fermentation. For red wine the concrete vessels used have rough surface that encourages a flora of yeast and so the cellar itself  imparts a particular character  in the same way that a cheesemakers cellar does.  A part of the terrior.

Concrete eggs are used to ferment the whites, the egg shape makes vortex which moves wine around, stirring the lees and it is also gently oxidative too.

However they often ferment some in barrique and blend to achieve the final wines.

Boekenhautskloof  are also using amphora made of clay fired at high temperature so this format doesn’t breath they use it for muscat.

Reds are matured in barrels.  Large Foudre for Syrah to slow oxidation. Barrique for the Cabernets.

Interestingly Boekenhautskloof do not acidify their wines which is actually widely practiced to achieve balance in the wines of South Africa.

Tasting notes:

Cap Maritime 2020, Chardonnay Hemel en Aarde

Creamy, toasty, smoky with citrus zest. Great balance, full but firm body, nice structure, long.

Semillon 2019

Made from old vines the youngest planted in 1942 which are more resilient to the droughts recently experienced. Bit of polish, wax, bit of smoke, pleasant petrol aroma. Nice elastic mouth feel, baked lemon, slightly salty tang, some smoke.  Capable of bottle aging and developing great complexity.  Think Hunter Valley.

Cap Maritime Pinot Noir 2020

Difficult year not much energy  to ripen so needed whole bunch to give a lift. Cherry, green herbs. Sweet red fruit, good lift medium body.

The Chocolate Block 2021 (1 M bottles!)

Made from 5 varieties the lend percentages always shift and change. Blind tasted to pick best but will always reflect the vintage characteristics.

Mix if red crunchy berries, dark black current then brambles, a touch of vanilla. Good balance, structured, high acid, medium body, clayey tannins present. Fruity with a tough of menthol. Med length.

Syrah 2019

Grown on blue schist in Swartland. Nose of crushed raspberries, blueberries, light spice. Fruit forward creamy texture, clove ripe fruit finish. Long.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Stellenbosch fruit. Dark fruit, iodine and black current. Ripe fruit, lots of nice powdery tannin. High acid, dry savoury finish.

These are amazing age worthy, high quality wines representing superb value!