WanderCurtis Wine

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Gastronomic heaven in Chianti Classico , April 2014

CecchiniWith the fine palates and ample bellies of my father and brother in hand, we set of on an explorative journey to seek the finest food and wine of the Chianti Classico region , nestled between the delightful cities of Florence and Siena.
First stop Fontodi ,in the beautiful Tuscan countryside just South of Panzano ,olive groves ,rolling Hills, Cypress trees ,grape vines.

The perfect setting to explore the lovely terracotta amphora , an experimental medium for ageing wine.

Tasting included a good cross section including  Flaccianello 2008.

 

The appetite was growing, calling for a mandatory trip to Italies most famous and extrovert butcher Dario Cecchini, the most famous in Italy,  a charismatic and eloquent champion of Tuscan carnivorous cuisine a meat centric restaurant where  quality knows no boundaries. A homage to the cow ,full of character and quirkiness .

 

DarioGreeted with a glass of local chianti from traditional straw flask or’ Fiasco ‘.Bread drowned in local extra virgin olive oil.lard with herbs on brushetta , wild boar salami and pecorini cheese and that’s just while you wait to be seated.
Ushered after a short wait  through the pantry kitchen and sliding doors upstairs to vibrant bustling dining room open BBQ huge hunk of beef fiorentine .
The place eats sleeps and breathes meat .

Amply fed and somewhat dozy we made our way South on the 222 through Castellina in Chianti to the lovely Villa Trasqua .vino Santo

 

 

Giorgia had a fine schedule for us .A walk thorough  vines carrying most of the terroir with us  after recent rainfall. A tutorial on the guyot and cordon pruning methods and suddenly a downpour and a lift back through the vineyard to the tasting room.Fanatico ,Evolito traluna and Trasgaia deep ruby red, cherries ,spice great personality.
finished with a lovely  2005 vino Santo. Alan then showed us the stunning views from the tower over to Siena.

 

Daniele di Seta

 

Next on to Daniela and Maria at Tera Di Seta Kosher winery. A  walk through the  vines olive groves and then a Shabbat tasting .Very interesting to see the locked room leading to the winery no access only to approved personnel. Smoky, spicy and herbaceous wines and very peppery luscious olive oil.

 

Dinner  at Cacio e Pepe  in the local village of Vagliagli was a fitting end to a gastronomic day.
Wonderful soup  followed by ricotta and spinach cannelloni,  apple strudel and coffee with 3 spoons and  the delightful smiling  Lucia together with her mum and sister ran this most excellent restaurant.

 

Saturday we headed to Raddia in chianti. Coffee at Sandys followed by getting lost on the way to Castello d’Albola . A great   tour of  the property and cellars owned Fiascoby the Zonin family. What a marvellous selection of wines finished of with the vino santo  aged for 8 years in Chestnut barrels.
A trip back to Greve in Chianti to Castello Vicciomagio and  met the the rather efficious John Matta  on the way through the vines  . It felt like the Spanish inquisition !

vicchimagioHis wine though were great sat on the hilltop with stunning panoramic  views over theTuscan, Chianti countryside Vicchiomaggio chiant classico riserva 2010  .

Expect to get lost in chianti country , our sat nav useless .

 

South to Siena and the spectaular  Duomo and Piazza Del Campo . The last stop was back to the lovely Lucia at Cacio e Pepe for some home cooking in Vagliagli and a mal to surpass the gastronomy of last night.

Three satiated  bellies and back to Di Seta winery .

 

Sunday , A gentle meander north on Rt 222 stopped in Panzano  to shop in the street market and meet the gregarious Dario Cecchini ,

who surprised us with his name in Hebrew on his apron and trophy from the great shimon Peres peace foundation from his trip to Israel.Dario

Then North to  Villa Il Foggia  and finished off our wines we had collected on our travels overlooking the vineyards and Florence in the distance.

The final feast served by Maurizio in  a great aunthentic restaurant A Casa Mia run by two brothers in Montefiridolfi  .This a treasure of a find in a tiny village with only four tables wit a wonderful warm quaint atmosphere and food from the heart. The highlight being spinach and ricotta cannelloni which melted in the mouth.

That’s one of the wonders of Italy . Great food in local Trattorias, home cooking,  with  a warm atmosphere  and wine to match .

 

Here’s to our forthcoming trip to Puglia  …we can barely wait !

 

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Visit the Wachau in Austria

20131028_152456We have visited the Wachau on the Danube in Austria many times over the years, normally at the end of May for a cycle ride along the Danube, lunch and tasting or two at one of the many wonderful wineries lining the valley.   We’ve also been a few times in the summer and when it is hot enough one can stop at one of the sand banks that form on the river and revive with a refreshing dip in the Danube as it flows past.

photo 1This year however we happened to visit at the end of October on a gorgeous sunny day and the steep vineyards of the Wachau valley were aflame with autumnal reds and yellows.  From October to November the harvest is in full swing so wineries are pressed for time. Whilst they are still welcoming their doors are only open by arrangement and tastings are more hurried affairs than usual.

20131028_152906Instead of our usual cycle along the river this time we parked in Spitz below the Tausendeimerberg, hill (so called because it produces 1000 clay jars of wine) and followed a circular walk through the vineyards behind the town. With the bustle of the harvest, vivid colours and stunning views of the river winding down the valley this is a great time of year to visit.

It’s not all wine either as there are the ruins of the various robber baron castles to visit dotted up and down the hills in one of which Richard the Lion Heart was held for ransom on his way back from the crusades.

Obviously a few bottles were purchased and a tasting worked into the day.  At Weingut Knoll we heard of how earlier it the year in the Danube flooded.  The villages next the river were submerged for a few days, including the valley floor vineyards and the wine cellars where the previous year’s vintage of smargd was still in the large barrels and had to be tied down in position. As the barrels are of course water proof and the water receded after only a few days the wine was not affected.  Those that I tasted attested to this.

The Wachau is only about 50 minutes’ drive from Vienna and can also be reached by train so combines nicely with a city break.  Here are a few tips and links to help you on your way…

General tourist information in English: http://alt.donau.com/donau/wn/?ln=EN

Spitz vineyard walk: http://www.donau.com/de/donau-niederoesterreich/ausflug-bewegen/bewegung/karten-touren-finden/detail/weinwandern-spitz-robert-prosser-und-weingut-franz-hirtzberger/6549636/fee1693155c22cf71221412165fb9a89/

http://www.spitz-wachau.com/de/

20131028_153309Cycling on the Danube.  A lot of hotels hire bikes but here are also a couple of places in Krems where you can hire bikes for the day.  You can either take one of the cruise ships or the local train down to Willendorf or one of the other towns further west and then spend the day cycling back at a leisurely pace.  There is a dedicated cycle path close to the river all the way:

Danube Cycle path

Restaurant Loibnerhof run by the part of the Knoll family with excellent food and a great wine list featuring mature Knoll Greuners and Rieslings.  Try the Tafelspitz an Austrian speciality of tender beef served with horseradish and apple. In the autumn roast goose (Ganse) with red cabbage is in season: http://www.loibnerhof.at/

Jamek is a well-known Wachau wine producer and has a great restaurant in Joching practically on the cycle path, with a lovely garden, great menu and as one might expect a full selection of their own wines: http://www.weingut-jamek.at/restaurant.php?id=13

For a review of wine makers and wines from Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal see our past tastings page.

photoMost wine makers are very welcoming but it is necessary to make an appointment beforehand.  However two that I have visited many times on spec are Domaine Wachau a large producer who make excellent wines (the Terraces GV from Waitrose is a perennial favourite) and Weingut Schmeltz who have a very groovy tasting room and excellent wines cover looking the vineyards in Joching.

http://www.domaene-wachau.atc

http://www.schmelzweine.at/cms/?page_id=11

When WC visited the area we stayed at Hotel Pfeffel which has great views over the Danube and has a lovely roof top pool: http://www.pfeffel.at/


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Wine tasting in Northern Rhone May 16th to 19th 2013

La Chapelle

La Chapelle

Thursday May 16th 2013

It was with great excitement that six wine loving gentlemen of various levels of fitness left London to seek the finest offerings of the great wine region of Northern Rhone.

With a mixture of serendipity and brazen I had got us an invite to Maison Chapoutier for a party the night of our arrival.

Having attended an M.Chapoutier masterclass on Monday In London I sought out the fun loving forthrightly spoken Michel
Chapoutier who immediately extended a warm hand , game on.

It started with the style we intended to continue.
First class Lille to Valence in an area of the carriage akin to a private boudoir.
Stuart , our travelling sommelier , invited as much for his cellar collection as his fine North American sense of humour (but certainly not for his wind capacity.)
The indulgence commenced immediately with Kiran’s beautifully blown finely rimmed plastic glasses.
Out came my  J L-Chave celebre  St. Joseph , 100%Roussane courtesy of Yapp brothers recommended by the  lovely Bianca Ford.Nelly
Tim’s great analysis of it ..Peaches and cream just like a dream!
Then the J L Chave Hermitage 2004 , see tasting note for full description .This took us to a new level of euphoria.
We questioned the possibility of illicit substances having been added, as we all developed and enhanced sensory
and analytical level .Even the softly spoken, muscle strapped Gerald seemed truly in awe commenting
‘you just want more and more of this’
With a blindly tasted Paulo Scavino 2001 Barolo the journey flew by.
We soon found ourselves on the banks of a wild ,gushing Rhone at le Chateau in Tournon .

Straight to chapoutier … party on , the winners of the days sommelier competition were being announced we were served-
Champagne Millesime 2000 et Ultra D de deveaux
Alsace Bland Riesling 2011 Domaine Schieferkopf
Hermitage Blanc chante alouette
Pyrenees rough Victoria 2008
Hermitage rouge Monier de la Sizeranne 2007 en magnum
Muscat Beaumes de venise 2011 and Rivesaltes 2001

This was just the general wine list.
Michel  came over to say hello and insisted we be served Le Pavillon.The delightful Nelly France , Michel’s export director who never left us all night, proceeded to bring a selection of vinous miracles. Le Meal Hermitage 2006 , Le Pavillon 2000 L’Ermite . All washed down wit-.

Risotto a la Truffe . Gambas et Legumes aux saveurs asiatiques , blanquettes de riz de veau aux morilles , St Jacques snackees et petits legumes verts a la noisette, Booeuf Angus snacke et asperges du Luberon and this was just the hot area . It was all too much for the normally stamina laden Rob.

We danced and partied on , what a welcome to Rhone , Merci bien Michel Chapoutier !Chapoutier party

Crossed the river to Tournon in the early hours , and soon wished I had brought some ear plugs.

Friday May 17th

The forecast was poor but are spirits high. We headed to Jaboulet. The charming aptly named Jean Luc Chapel took us up Hermitage to La Chapelle.
Wonderful views and a topographical history lesson of the vineyards of Jaboulet .This was followed by a private tasting of 8 wines ( see Jaboulet wine event for tasting notes)
and hugely generously opened a La Chapelle Hermitage 2007 for good measure. Lunch of Fromage , Charcuterie and beautifully ripe heritage tomatoes rprovided in Jaboulet .
The six of us warmly satisfied having been treated royally.

Then to Maison Chapoutier where the fabulous Nelly treated us again to a stunning portfolio of their wines .Highlights including Cote Rotie la Mordoree (full details under tasting notes)
Stuart could have easily set his stall for the night, but another appointment at 4pm meant we had to drag him kicking and screaming.

The weather turned. A taxi to Cave Fayolle for a tasting.

We  then welcomed a rare spell of fine sunshine and mounted our unused bikes.Half the party ascended the imposing Hermitage La Chapelle led by Gerald Wiggins Kelly.
A leisurely ascent for the big man. Kiran and I sweating and panting behind. We were treated to wonderful views from the summit .Spring flower blossom,neat rows of beautifully tended budding vines
and the majestic Rhone river meandering serpentially across the valley floor.

Evening came and  an exquisite dinner at Restaurant Le Chaudron in Tournon served by Mac Grillon in .Highlights being
the St Jacques lightly seared, pan fried sweetbreads,Magret de Canard,rasberry pannacotta and a fine wine list.

Saturday May  18th

The best laid schemes o’ mice an’ menGiugal
Gang aft a-gley, [often go awry]
An’ lea’e us nought but grief an’ pain,
For promised joy

Robbie Burns ‘To a Mouse ‘ 1786

The plan was  bikes in hand  by train to Vienne and follow the  lovely dedicated bike  path   V2  down the  Rhone back to Tain with various leisurely stops on route.
It was not to be.
We managed Vienne to Ampuis and took in the beautiful views. However as predicted, the weather was starting to turn .

We arrived at the congenial Rene Rostaing. We were entertained in his cellar sampling amongst many, his Condreui, Ampodium, 2003, la Landonne 2009, Languedoc 2010.

The rain increased  in ferocity, and the wind picked up. We took refuge  in Bistro de Serine ,16 boulevard des allees, Ampuis. Great lunch and some lovely wines –  Cote Rotie Gerin 2005 and 2010. Then off to GillesBarge next door. He was most generous opening many wines including  a 1992 Cote Rotie.Rene Rostaing

Domaine Gaillard in Malleval next stop.The rain teamed down , the clouds darkened ,the temperature dropped, and the wind picked up.
Five soaked sodden cold defeated men pondered for a few seconds whether to make the ascent up to Gaillard in Malleval. Only the ever stalwart Gerald showed any wish for it. We headed for the nearest train in Peage de Roussilon .Instead of our intended scenic ride by the river we found ourselves five drowned rats inhaling all manner of fume around the chemical factories of Peage.

There was only one thing to lift our mood..To engorge ourselves to bursting with chocolate.  And that we duly did back in the Valrhola chocolate factory in Tain.

A warm bath later and we were all ready for our final gourmet experience of the trip back at Le Chaudron . Pol Roger to start followed by a selection of Delas  wines including Crozes and  St Joseph and more. Served with Nuits St Jaque, sweetbreads, Boeuf fillet ,fromage de la region, pannacotta strawberries and all washed down with  Beaumes de Venice.

A very happy six gentleman returned to Le Chateau, to some rather less pleasant bouquets, (merci Stuart)

With  wine food and company as good as this;
Days may be cloudy or sunny
We’re in or we’re out of the money.
But we’ll love you always, we’re with you rain or shine.

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Napa Valley, California

Wandering Wine

Three guys, a hard-top convertible, and a week in Californian wine country. And all with a determination to have a great holiday (or “vacation” as the locals corrected us), possibly trying to relive some of our Marlborough vineyards experience and the origins of our friendship 14 years earlier. Our trip was driven by Adam, the man with a passion for wine, the palate to support us, and the surprise 40th birthday gift organised by his wife. The plan was simplistic – the two UK based lads (Adam &Nick) to meet the kiwi (Aaron) at San Francisco airport, collect the Pontiac – and drive to wine country. It was only good fortune that found somewhere to stay on the first night. Not because the region is short of a wide range of accommodation options, but because of our decision to drive directly to the vineyards and get into the tasting before the 4.30pm closing (we landed at SFO at 1pm). The trip was easy after that – locals eager to advise you, all sites within easy driving or biking distance, and plenty of fine fine wine.

The Napa valley itself is small in terms of geography and wine quantity, but “Napa” is synonymous with fine American wine – and origin of Robert Mondavi’s mission to produce the best wines in the world from California. The valley is about to feature in the upcoming film, Bottle Shock, the Hollywood dramatisation of how the American Napa wines raided the French wine scene. This positive view of the California wine industry is contrasted in the 2004 film Mondovino, which shows Mondavi as part of the American multinational force, challenging (ruining?) French wine traditions. Our trip took us to both the narrow valley of Napa and the adjacent Sonoma valley districts of Russian river and Dry Creek, with the majority of the trip centred around Yountville – a small Napa Valley tourist village with a disturbing high number of gastronomic restaurants.

Each region is defined by its own idiosyncratic climate and geographic characteristics, and suits different grape varieties. We started with Cabernet Sauvignon’s of the Napa Valley, and then onto Zinfandel’s of the Dry Creek, Pinot Noir’s of the Russian River (after a 3 hours canoe cruise down the placid Russian river), and back to the Napa for a less disciplined recap of the Napa. The experience was divided between some of the big names of Napa wine (Opus One, Robert Mondavi, Charles Krug, and Beringer) and the more boutique or character operations (Preston, Ehlers, Rutherford) – with varied and unexpected tales at each stop…the behind the scenes tour of the meticulous production of Opus One, the generous servings at Robert Mondavi, the afterhours barrel tasting at Ehlers, personalise tasting by the Rafanelli family, or the delicate tasting platter at Robert Sensky.

In seven days we tasted at 18 wineries, sampling a range of mostly reds at each stop. So what can three blokes learn on a glorified pub crawl? The most obvious reflection was the discovery that a week of intensive wine tasting will improve your palate, and enhance your appreciation of fine wine, and help get beyond the hype of the wine scene. And there were other more personal lessons about friendship and mates. That three blokes can share a week drinking – and still discuss serious emotional issues, can spend days appreciating the nose of a exceptional Pinot – and then mix it up with the boys playing pool in one of the local dive bars. Wine is good.

Adam, Aaron and Nick’s trip was made possible with endorsement of Hillcrest Fine Wines, Hamilton. Thanks.


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Piemonte, Italy wine tasting trip, May 17-20 2012

We visited some fine wineries in and around Barolo, many arranged by Roger Barlow of Gerrard Seel.

These included Paulo Scavino, Giacomo Conterno, Ascheri , Moccaggata and others.

We sourced  the finest for our Piemonte tasting in June.


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Austria trip June 2011 – Wachau Kamptal

Day 1

Thursday night Chez Franz in Mank. Eighteen Austrian reds served in pairs blind, 1989-2010. Four dessert wines, Kracher 2008.
Present: Eric Boudot from Bordeaux and local merchant, Didi local restauranteur.

Wines included:

  • Round 1: Native zweigelt (after a Professor)/Blaufrankish( Blue Franc in Napoleonic times) – cherry fruity spices.
  • Round 2: Pinot Noir Gesselman 2003, 13% floral earthy composty classic pinot ( Eric called Gesselman during tasting!) and Pinot 2004 Markowitsch – a bit cooked.
  • Round 3: Blaufrankisch 2001 Chevalier -earthy 14% powerful and Zweigelt OLvin 2000.
  • Round 4: Merlot 2000 (highlight). Lilies, flowers, lavender, smokey, Blaufrankish – barrel sample pichler, too young/acetone.
  • Round 5 1999 in signo Leorus cuvee V saira grande reserve 2003 cab merlot (tiring).
  • Round 6: corked 2000 Guiser V Blaufrankish 2000 Durran savoury/sweet/hoisin sauce (Kiran +++).
  • Round 7: 1994 Blaufrankisch – over the hill, spicy, HP sauce +++V th suprise 1996 Chateau Montrose! wet dog/fur.
  • Round 8: 1989 Blaufrankisch Markowitch V 1989 Zweigelt. Very interesting to try such old Austrian reds, but past their best.

austria1A marathon with tonnes of cheese. Finished off with the famous Krachers, 50 euros, plus a bottle generously supplied by Eric, a rosen muskateller 2008 and variety of 2008 6%, 8% and 11%. Oh, and a lovely Doisy Daene thrown in! What a tasting!

Day 2

Drove to Spitz on the Danube. First stop, Mauritshof Britz for a whole array of gruners and rieslings. Unfortunately the 2010 was not a great vintage with lots of rain and other problems. This showed in the 2010. Then a trip to Lagler slightly overshadowed by a leggy loud American group but some lovely wines (see The Wines of Austria event).

We checked in at the lovely hotel on the banks of the Danube and headed off on our bikes to Emmerich Knoll. He was a wee bit surprised to see us and was sat with his grandchildren. We gladly joined the Knoll family and thus commenced a three hour afternoon tasting of some fantastic wines including barrel selections of all his 2010, served from the most remarkable blown glass contraption. A truly memorable afternoon.

austria2Finished the day at the restaurant opposite Knoll in Unterloiben. The smoked, herb crusted trout was the highlight, but some other great food. Rob et al none too happy as hot desserts stopped at 9.30pm!

Day 3

More intense cycling and a rather longer trip than expected to Langenlois and missed the first tasting! A real test for me in my rehabilitation from back surgery and just managed. Rewarded at the Brundlymayer restaurant with the most awesome display of around twenty wines,  with beautiful food. Highlights for sure were the rose brut – the quality of top champagne and the Ried Lamm, which had spent time in wood and is compatible with top white burgundy.

Later that afternoon in Strass tried maybe fifteen wines with Mr Shreibess. These were great value for money and very crisp clean wines. Luckily, it was downhill to Krems and along the river through Unterloiben and Durnstein. Back to the hotel for schnitzel, a delicious stinging nettle soup and the most ridiculously large eggy meringue type and a thick, pancake-like dessert.

Another great trip – next stop, Italy…


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Barrel tasting in Bordeaux

My French became fluent after a 1967 St Estephe a 1974 St Julien and a 1999 Pomerol raided from my Aunt’s cellar in Castets-en-Dorthe to celebrate her 60th birthday. The red wine has kept her young – she’s not looking a day over 40!

Exquisite foie gras/magrets du canard, saucisson, fromages of every type, baguettes, masses of decanted Bordeaux reds, a rampant log fire and the party was on. A delight to meet Jean-Luc Magnac, local winemaker of Passavant – a port style wine made from Merlot. This was beautiful, normally aged 18 months, but he reckons the 2010 vintage is so good it didn’t need the ageing.

The following day, I drove to local vineyard to barrel taste the magnificent 2010 vintage. Tried cab sav/merlot and malbec from the barrel – great colour depth and concentration. The cab sav was a little green peppery, but was assured this is a whopping vintage. Another year to dig deep for the en primeur sale.

The wine flowed all weekend and finished with a harmonica blues duo in cercle du concorde in Castets.


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Pinots of Central Otago New Zealand wine tasting trip – December 2010

I can’t imagine a more beautiful place in the world to have a vineyard – just awesome. Steep mountain ranges, valley floors, gorges, glacial waters of the Kawarau river, a fusion of light and landforms.

Aaron, Kiwi wine lover and psychologist and I started on our quest for the finest pinot in Central Otago at Bald Hills in Cromwell. Owner Blair Hunt showed us his lovely collection, after a long day on the road from earhquake hit Christchurch, via lunch at Riverside Kitchen.

The newly opened wine trail bike route in the Gibbston valley provided the ideal oppurtunity to explore Perigrine wines and Amisfield. More examples of superbly made beautiful, fruit filled sensuous pinots.

Alan-BradyDay 3 was the highlight. We met Alan Brady, who planted the first vines in the Gibbston valley over 30 years ago and was the instigator for the wine boom here. After the initial embarrassment of not having his recently released book ‘Pinot Central’ but the one by John Saker, we were treated to a delightful tour. First of Gibbston Valley Winery then Mount Edward, followed by lunch in the sun. Surprised myself by ordering a rosé. Not normally much of a fan, these are 100% pinot and just delicious, with the most vibrant floral nose and supremely balanced palate that I am at last a convert to these rather unpopular numbers.

Alan is a true gent, humble for a man who has achieved so much here. He also rang ahead for us to arrange a tour of Rippon Valley wines in Wanaka the following day.

Off then to Felton Road and unfortunately just missed much talked about charismatic owner Nigel Greening. However had a tour and tried the wines.

The Holy Grail was found after four days of searching and 20,000km with four flight changes. All had been worth it. The passion/organic/biodynamic/terroir all came through to deliver a palatal treat – a real assault on the senses – wines gushing with fruit, flowers and complexity and something unquantifiable. The sense that a perfect harmony was present – bottled beauty!

jane-dochertyWhile Block 3 was particularly good, we loved them all. Well done to Felton Road, and after this nothing really mattered (except Man Utd seeing off Arsenal the following day!) We still had some stamina, and well worth it too as Jane Docherty from Carrick was a great hostess to the fine wines of Carrick.

A great trip and now have the ammunition for a “Best of Kiwi Pinot” WanderCurtis tasting in the early summer!


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Wine tasting trip to the Ribera Del Duero, 20-23 May

A stupendous long weekend in Ribera Del Duero arranged by R-C tours.

Day one
Commenced with a private tour of Dominio de Pingus, which was very hard to find just off a back street in the village.

Winemaker Patricia Benitez took us first around the super modern science labs including PCR machine! The scientists among us were already drooling even prior to the barrel samples of Pingus and flor de pingus 2009. A fascinating insight into one of the worlds most expensive ‘garage wines’.

We were whisked off to the ultra modern Bodegas Alion (Vega-Sicilia). Purification answered every last question, valiantly, from the density of the grain of French versus American oak to the concentration of TCAs on corked samples. Then to the exotic Japanese Gardens of Pablo Alvarez’s Vega Sicilia, and finally the private tasting from immaculately pristine top range Riedel-Alion 2005, Valbuena, Unico 2000 and the most mindblowing luscious marmalady Tokay 2002. This was going to take some beating!

Off to Bodegas Protos – a very much larger more modern, and somewhat colder operation.
Impressed by winemaker Maria but the wines were disappointing. In fairness they did have a very hard act to follow.

Day two
Viejo Coso by Jesus Ramos who descended from his castle in Curiel de Duero to show us his maturing barrels in a converted church with 2m thick stone walls. Then off up to the spectacular castle-hotel, hundreds of feet high on a limestone escarpment. Amazing setting, interesting toilets and good quality wines. He kindly invited us back for lechazo (baby lamb stewed for four hours) and Champions League final.

30km by bike later and to the highlight of the trip -Juan Carlos Vizcarra, Bodegas Vizcarra.

Tasting Notes

Coso Viejo
Vinification takes place in Peniefel, followed by aging in barrel and bottle in a restored church with 1.5m thick walls. Our tasting took place in the hotel Coso Viejo also run by Jesus, a restored castle on the hill with fantastic views over the valley and back towards Peniefel. Hotel Coso Viejo, Encarnacion 9, 29200 Antequera, Spain

Jesus ages his wines for longer than the minimum stipulations for Roble, Crianza, Reserva and sells 70% of his wine in Madrid and the rest to central Europe.

Roble 2005, released 2008.
Slightly brick coloured rim. Fruity nose, simple and tasty on the palette. Develops in the glass, soft ripe tannin, black cherries and becoming even more enjoyable. Shows the extra effort and aging ** Sells for 7 EU.14%

Crianza 2003 released 2008.
Again a bricky rim, blackberry fruit, compost and vegetal notes on the nose, smooth with plenty of tannin on the palette, needs food as many of these wines do. Opens up on returning to the glass later with caramel and more complexity. Very tasty. For 9 EU a bottle fantastic value. **

Reserva 2001 released in 2006.
A sweet nose, vegetal with hints of spice and caramel, nice and interesting. Soft and smooth on the palette, quite long, a lot of tannin has dropped away. Some still present, but the fruit is disappearing. A little rioja like. We returned that evening for chuletas, baby slow cooked lamb at the castle, which was accompanied perfectly with another couple of bottles of the Reserva which really came into its own. Again at 12 EU a bottle certainly the best value wine we had delivering loads of please.**

Bodegas Vizcarra
As we cycled back from Roa del Duero through Mambrilla wondering how we were going to find our last appointment of the day, we noticed some guy in a tractor in a field shouting and waving at us. It turned out to be Juan Carlos, owner, oenologist, winemaker, PR department, labourer and everything else at Bodegas Vizcarra. An inspiring and passionate man who has since our meeting pipped Cantona as Adam’s all-time hero.

JuanCarlos-Vizzcarra

Having visited four fascinating wineries and learnt all about winemaking in Ribera, and after a rather large lunch in Roa we thought we knew what to expect. But from the moment Juan Carlos stepped off his tractor to when we left three hours later it was clear that Bodegas Vizzcarra was something very special.

We visited the vineyards themselves and heard about the low yielding old bush vines and the younger row planted vines, also the different soils and positions in the valley. In the new winery, JC explained his use of larger new oak barrels to encourage a more gentle expression in the wines. We tasted 2009 from the barrel and were privileged to visit JC’s family cellar in the town and taste a mature bottle of one of his premier wines.

Senda del Oro 2009 from barrel
Fruity nose then packed with fruit, chewy yet fresh, tasty and balanced, nicely under oaked. **+

Vizcarra 2009
From 20-30 year old vines, a crianza. Roasted coffee beans on the nose also fruit. Lovely sweet blackberry and coffee beans, soft tannin, long viscous and tasty.  **++

Torralvo 2009
From 55 year old vines. This is the wine where JC is aiming for the perfect Ribera Reserve, made in bigger barrels to temper the effect of the oak. Full fruity, concentrated with a mineral undercurrent, powerful, viscous with a long lingering fruit aftertaste.  ***+

Celia 2009
Some Garnacha in the blend here again in big barrels with attractive pink metal bands (Celia’s favourite colour?) This wine is more feminine and refined in every respect, even delicate following the Torralvo. Compact and a little closed but beautifully balanced dense complex core and soft lingering tannin at the end. This has amazing potential. ****+

Innes 2009
This blend has a10% merlot in it and again a long maturation in large barrels. Wonderfully cool and fine textured, sweet and compact, with plenty of tanning, a great mouth feel.  ***++

Celia 2003
Delicate nose, sweet with hints of the savoury/sweet plum sauce one gets with crispy duck, complex and powerful in the mouth, soft tanning, very long and persistent on the palette.  Evolves in the glass, passing through waves of sweet fruit flavours and savoury soy notes.  One of the best of the trip, absolutely delicious!  ****

Torralvo 2006
Bit closed to begin with but opens up with fruit, limestone and persistent nose, then in the mouth, wow! Big, intense, powerful seemingly endless, good balance, and so very, very tasty.  ****

By the time we got to these last two we all gave up spitting – the wines were just too good. When we finally got back on our bikes, and JC got back into his tractor, there was not a drop left.


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Austrian whites at New Year

After a few days skiing, which lacked vinus highlight but featured sufficient schnitzls with beer to compensate, we returned to Regina and Franz’s to see in the New Year. Franz again raided his wonderful cellar (worthy of a feature of its own at some point) and the evening started with a couple of superb Austrian whites.

First, a Gruener Veltliner Shloss Goebelsberg Lamm Reserve 2008. This GV from Kamptal rather than the Wachau was voted best in the vintage by Vinaria magazine. Full of exotic fruits, pineapple, star fruit etc. on the nose, but with a tight mineral core and long on the palette, lovely.

Next was a Riesling Smaragd 1999 Liobener Steirntal, from the now internationally famous FX Pichler. This was amazingly  fresh for its ten years and still in full stride, smokey with hints of match head on the nose, but with a strong fruity scents underneath. On the palette beautifully balanced, with pineapple and seasoning leaving, ending clean and invigorating.